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tracer1

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Jan 6, 2013
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Intel Xeon X5675 3.06GHz LGA 1366/Socket B 3200MHz CPU SLBYL

Will these work on my 2010, 5,1? Do I need to delid them or just "drop them in" as they are? Also, would it be worthwhile since the cMP will be obsolete in the next few years ( so I've heard)? All this is totally new to me & since I have a nearly mint machine, I don't want to blow it up.
Oh, just in case, my machine is a 2010, 5,1, 2.4 8 core. If more info is needed let me know.

Any help & info would be greatly appreciated.
 
If the CPUs are production units they will work just fine. No delidding is necessary on a DP cMP 5,1. Just take the old ones out and drop them in. Be sure you clean every thing up and use good thermal paste. The replacement is relatively easy if you know what you're doing.

The cMP 5,1 was "obsolete" 4 years ago, according to Apple. But, I'm still using mine. The design is timeless IMHO. Everything has been upgraded in my machine.

Lou
 
Thanks guys, really appreciate the info. The thermal paste I have is arctic 5. Is that still good or is there something better now?
 
Aha, I thought all 4,1-5,1 single socket were lidded and all dual socket were delidded.

Yet one more reason why qtr 5,1 are more expensive.
 
Yet one more reason why qtr 5,1 are more expensive.[/QUOTE]

Well, you're a step ahead of me, I had no idea, although I have 2 2009 4,1 to 5,1, LOL
 
Friend of mine gave me his 2 cpus (x5675) that came out of his 2012, so thought I might try to upgrade mine just for the heck of it. I have 32 gigs of 1333 memory but it's at 1066 now. Don't know if it will make my 2.4 any better but can't hurt I guess. Hi said all I had to do was " drop them in" but thought I would check on here to make sure. Very nervous about possibly blowing up a perfectly working machine.
 
Hi said all I had to do was " drop them in" but thought I would check on here to make sure. Very nervous about possibly blowing up a perfectly working machine.

It is very easy in a 5,1. You will need the following items before starting:
  • A 3mm hex/allen wrench that's at least 5" (13cm) long. I use this one.
  • Some kind of thermal paste like Arctic Silver 5 or G751. Really almost anything is fine though if you prefer something else or if your local store has something else. Just make sure that it is thermal paste and not thermal adhesive.
  • Some rubbing alcohol and a little bit of clean cotton rag or cotton balls to clean off the old paste. I don't use paper towels because it usually leaves paper residue behind.
 
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Agree with ActionableMango, but for thermal paste, better just go for some safe ordinary stuff (e.g. AS5), but not something "too good" (e.g. Liquid metal). The heatsink was not designed for those "high performance" stuff, some ingredient can cause corrosion.
 
ActionableMango..I have a hex wrench pretty much like the one you use. Also, h9826790, I use arctic silver 5. Been using that for a long time. One question for you guys - on the removal of the heat sinks, you count the number of turns on their removal. To re-install, do you use the number of times for removal to re-install or should you use one less turn then adjust if necessary. For example: 6 turns for removal, then 5 turns to install, then adjust if necessary. I've tried to research this & have seen both ways used, so thought I would ask some guys that know.
Thanks
 
^^^^For me, as I recall, it was difficult to count the number of turn, because the screws are buried so deep in the heatsink. I used my judgement when retightening based on Apple's specs (finger tight+).

TinyGrab Screen Shot 12-27-17, 1.22.30 PM.png


Apples instructions are above.

Lou
 
I also never counted turns and tightened the screws until it felt right. I even did it this way when upgrading dual socket MacPro4,1 which use delidded CPUs.
 
One question for you guys - on the removal of the heat sinks, you count the number of turns on their removal.

On my 5,1 I just turned the screws until they stop. It's kind of hard to explain in words, but I'll try. A normal everyday screw gets tighter and tighter and tighter toward the end as if it were an analog process, but on my 5,1 screw tightening was more of a digital process like "easy easy easy easy easy stop". It's one more example of the many tiny little positive surprises I experienced with my 5,1.

So no, I didn't count anything. That's pretty much for dual-processor 4,1 CPU installation which seems to be super sensitive about screw tightness being perfectly even across all screws and also "not so far you just wrecked your sockets".
 
ActionableMango..I have a hex wrench pretty much like the one you use. Also, h9826790, I use arctic silver 5. Been using that for a long time. One question for you guys - on the removal of the heat sinks, you count the number of turns on their removal. To re-install, do you use the number of times for removal to re-install or should you use one less turn then adjust if necessary. For example: 6 turns for removal, then 5 turns to install, then adjust if necessary. I've tried to research this & have seen both ways used, so thought I would ask some guys that know.
Thanks

No need to be too complicated, my own experience is also finger tight is good enough. Something like turn the wrench until you can't do it by a single finger. Then add 1/4 turn.

That count turn method is mainly for other purpose.
 
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Thanks h9826790. Will do the finger tight thing. Hopefully I should have enough time Friday or Saturday to do the swap.
 
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