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MiniMainframe

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May 27, 2024
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The LID Switch FET functions OK, and the laptop DOES WORK with the external power, though Extremely Slow.

At MagSafe, "Adapter Sense" line pulses when NO battery in place, the 16.5v line also pulses a few nanoseconds later (on 2 channel o-scope). Pulse width about 5ms every 1/2 second. Stays "high" with battery plugged in. Light stays Green.

The "SWITCH" line, at the BATTERY connector, is "low", not "clocking" at any time. What should it be before the battery is connected (on the logic board and the battery), and after? CLOCK and DATA are at 3.4v, never change when MagSafe connected (Laptop On/Off does not matter),

I replaced a couple bad battery cells because the 13" MACBOOK A1181 would not charge and was NOT SEEN by the laptop. The battery is Now Seen, but the MagSafe led stays green, Battery Status program says "present" and "10.5 volts" but no charge/ discharge current. And battery check program now says "need to replace battery". (duh)

I KNOW the batteries will charge, as I opened the battery and jumped in power to them, and the "status lights" on the battery all turned on when button on battery pressed. As a "temp fix" I soldered 3ea AAA (in series) rechargeable batteries (still giving about 10.5 total battery output).

What should the pins have on them before (laptop connector) and after the battery is inserted? Shouldn't SLC be clocking so the battery know it is connected? -- I have access by having the keyboard elevated but still connected.

With charge on the battery, in place in laptop, 0v on Battery Positive, but got some voltage just as the MagSafe was connected (ok that had to be from the battery, then went low after MagSafe connected?? I should charge the battery again and re-do this test), then back to 0v. Switch pin 0v, SCL and SDA lines NEVER change - always 3.4v, thermistor line always 0v.

ALSO - is there a source for images of component placement so I can find F6905 and F7000, SMC_XTAL, etc?

Thank You
 
Admittedly I'm not knowledgeable about the A1181 battery at such a fine grained level, but I did find an iFixit post with some info on the pinouts that might help: https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/571099/I+need+a+battery+pinout+for+this+system.

There's also the schematics for the A1181 which I believe has the schematics for the battery's onboard circuitry on p. 66: https://datasheetgadget.wordpress.c.../2014/10/apple-macbook-pro-fa255-m42c-mlb.pdf
Thanks - I will check to see if those schematics are more accurate - and I already have that pin-out, but still need the SIGNAL/VOLTAGES that should be present w/w-o battery in place.
Also, I have the White 13" Macbook, not the Pro - but still may learn something from this. iFixit does have a lot of good info.
 
Thanks - I will check to see if those schematics are more accurate - and I already have that pin-out, but still need the SIGNAL/VOLTAGES that should be present w/w-o battery in place.
Also, I have the White 13" Macbook, not the Pro - but still may learn something from this. iFixit does have a lot of good info.
I know the file name says "MacBook Pro", but it's pretty clear to me that these schematics are for a MacBook; it says so on the first page, and the System Block Diagram on page 2 is consistent with the motherboard of the non-unibody polycarbonate MacBook.
 
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Thanks - I will check to see if those schematics are more accurate - and I already have that pin-out, but still need the SIGNAL/VOLTAGES that should be present w/w-o battery in place.
Also, I have the White 13" Macbook, not the Pro - but still may learn something from this. iFixit does have a lot of good info

Thanks - I will check to see if those schematics are more accurate - and I already have that pin-out, but still need the SIGNAL/VOLTAGES that should be present w/w-o battery in place.
Also, I have the White 13" Macbook, not the Pro - but still may learn something from this. iFixit does have a lot of good info.
And, from what I can see, p.66 does Not have the schematic for the battery circuit board, just the charging circuit on the motherboard. I would still like an image of he signals with and w/o battery connected so I can narrow down where the problem is at. I may be replacing ALL of the batteries with AAA just to eliminate any shorts that happen only when the batteries are charged.
 
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