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marcusalwayswins

macrumors 6502
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May 23, 2021
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Can someone please tell me let’s say if I am buying a used MacBook Air what are the key things that I need to check in it to understand the kind of wear and tear that has happened in it, in terms of screen quality, battery, life, and other things are there any websites or any tools by which I can diagnose the amount of usage and wear and tear that has already happened on the device ?
 
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Ask for the owner to do this in your presence before you give your money:

Go to system settings, and use the "erase all content and settings" option to wipe the drive and restore it to "moment zero". Then set up a new account (for demonstration purposes) with a username and password known to you.

Then, take it into your hands, and AGAIN use the erase all content and settings option, and see if you can get it back to "moment zero" again.

If it can do that, might be worth spending money on.
 
Ask for the owner to do this in your presence before you give your money:

Go to system settings, and use the "erase all content and settings" option to wipe the drive and restore it to "moment zero". Then set up a new account (for demonstration purposes) with a username and password known to you.

Then, take it into your hands, and AGAIN use the erase all content and settings option, and see if you can get it back to "moment zero" again.

If it can do that, might be worth spending money on.

That is almost not a problem.
But I was asking from a Cosmetic and Hardware Point of view his do I verify how much is the machine gone through wear and Tear ? And what is the current battery condition ?
 
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But I was asking from a Cosmetic and Hardware Point of view his do I verify how much is the machine gone through wear and Tear ? And what is the current battery condition ?
Other than looking for, seeing scrapes, scratches, dents, stripped screws, etc:


And the instructions @Fishrrman outlined should uncover any Activation Lock or MDM enrollment.
 
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So the Machine I am getting is a M1 MacBook Air with 8 Core CPU with 8 Core GPU and with 256GB SSD and 8GB RAM has had about 25 Battery Cycles only (Max is 1000) is in a good condition. At $630 USD.

How would you guys say the deal is ?
 
So the Machine I am getting is a M1 MacBook Air with 8 Core CPU with 8 Core GPU and with 256GB SSD and 8GB RAM has had about 25 Battery Cycles only (Max is 1000) is in a good condition. At $630 USD.

How would you guys say the deal is ?
It seemed like an okay price — the MSRP was $999 in Nov 2020. Although, after doing a quick search, it appears Best Buy has refurbished units for as low as $500.


Best Buy is an Apple Authorized Service Provider. I’ve never purchased a “Geek Squad Certified Refurbished” item. However, I’ve had good experiences with “Open Box - Excellent” Apple products (e.g., Apple Watch, Apple TV).
 
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It seemed like an okay price — the MSRP was $999 in Nov 2020. Although, after doing a quick search, it appears Best Buy has refurbished units for as low as $500.


Best Buy is an Apple Authorized Service Provider. I’ve never purchased a “Geek Squad Certified Refurbished” item. However, I’ve had good experiences with “Open Box - Excellent” Apple products (e.g., Apple Watch, Apple TV).

I am not in the U.S
 
about 25 Battery Cycles only (Max is 1000) is in a good condition. At $630 USD.
Battery cycles don't count up to 1000 and then stop. 1000 cycles is a typical lifespan; and is one of the criteria for getting the battery replacement rate at an Apple Store. The other being a maximum capacity of 80% from original full charge.

I'd want to know the actual Maximum Capacity percentage, in System Settings > Battery > Battery Health.

25 cycles suggests that they have left it plugged in for most of its life, (c. 3 to 4 years), and that can result in lower capacity after time than a "roaming" usage.

Have a look on eBay for similar models. I'd suggest that $630 is at the top end of reasonable.

Also, don't accept anything with scratches, dents, or other imperfections, as it suggests they've not treated well, or it's been dropped, etc.

Finally: make sure they've removed the Mac from their devices on their Apple ID.
 
Re reply 12:
"Finally: make sure they've removed the Mac from their devices on their Apple ID"

If I'm not mistaken, using the "erase all content and settings" option will do this automatically.
One of the reasons I recommended it above.
I could be wrong.
 
about 25 Battery Cycles only (Max is 1000) is in a good condition. At $630 USD.
Battery cycles don't count up to 1000 and then stop. 1000 cycles is a typical lifespan; and is one of the criteria for getting the battery replacement rate at an Apple Store. The other being a maximum capacity of 80% from original full charge.

I'd want to know the actual Maximum Capacity percentage, in System Settings > Battery > Battery Health.
True. Ideally, I’d want to run it through a calibration. Anyway… I'd generally trust the condition (e.g., Normal, Service) indicator. “Service” doesn’t absolutely necessitate replacement, but for a system I hadn’t been handling, I would say it’s a good expectation.

I'd suggest that $630 is at the top end of reasonable.
I agree, for the U.S. However, I’m not familiar with the markets in other countries/regions; for example, availability may be more restricted, keeping the used prices floor higher.

Finally: make sure they've removed the Mac from their devices on their Apple ID.
If I'm not mistaken, using the "erase all content and settings" option will do this automatically.
One of the reasons I recommended it above.
I could be wrong.
Yes, from what I understand of the documentation.

Apple said:

Use Erase All Content and Settings​

Requires macOS Monterey or later on a Mac with Apple silicon or the Apple T2 Security Chip
  1. If using macOS Ventura or later:
    1. From the Apple menu  in the corner of your screen, choose System Settings.
    2. Click General in the sidebar.
    3. Scroll down on the right and click Transfer or Reset.
    4. Click Erase All Content and Settings. Don't see this button?
  2. If using macOS Monterey:
    1. From the Apple menu  in the corner of your screen, choose System Preferences.
    2. From the System Preferences menu in the menu bar, choose Erase All Content and Settings. Don't see this option?
  3. An erase assistant opens. Follow the onscreen instructions. Before the erase begins, you will see a summary of all the settings, media, data, and other items that will be erased or turned off.
    • When asked to sign in with your administrator credentials, enter the password that you use to log in to your Mac. Forgot your login password?
    • You might be asked to enter your Apple Account password so that your Mac can sign out of Find My. Forgot your password?
    • You might be asked if you want to back up your Mac before resetting it.
    • After you click the Erase All Content & Settings button to confirm that you want to proceed, your Mac restarts and briefly shows a black screen or progress bar.
      Erase All Content & Settings prompt
  4. If your Mac needs to reconnect to a Bluetooth accessory such as a keyboard or mouse, you might be asked to turn on the accessory. If the accessory doesn't connect within 30 seconds, turn the accessory off and back on. When reconnecting to a Bluetooth keyboard, you're asked to choose a language.
  5. You might be asked to select a Wi-Fi network or attach a network cable. To select a Wi-Fi network, use the Wi-Fi menu
    Wi-Fi menu
    in the upper-right corner of the screen.
  6. Your Mac then activates. Click Restart.
    Activate Mac window with Restart button
  7. After your Mac restarts, a setup assistant guides you through the setup process, as if you're setting up your Mac for the first time.
If you're selling, giving away, or trading-in your Mac and want to leave it in an out-of-box state, don't use the setup assistant or your previously connected Bluetooth devices, if any. Just press and hold the power button on your Mac until it turns off.

Apple said:
Erase All Content and Settings makes it easier to reset your Mac to factory settings. Your Mac has this feature only if it’s using macOS Monterey 12 or later and is a Mac with Apple silicon or a Mac with the Apple T2 Security Chip.


So far, I’ve still been doing the other steps (i.e., disable Find My, sign out of iCloud, Messages, Music, etc) before doing the erase. Nonetheless, it seems that isn’t needed and is performed by the Erase All Content and Settings command/process.
 
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I'd want to know the actual Maximum Capacity percentage, in System Settings > Battery > Battery Health.

So what is considered a good bATTERY bACK uP/Holding Capacity after these much use after 25 or 28 Battery Cycles?


25 cycles suggests that they have left it plugged in for most of its life, (c. 3 to 4 years), and that can result in lower capacity after time than a "roaming" usage.

is that a very bad thing? it sounds that way ? 25 Battery cycles means have plugged in ll the life like 3 to 4 years ? Whoa !! That is like taking the entire juice out of it ? is it not?

How does one read this ?
 
That is almost not a problem.
The hardware side is important, but software is also critical if you don't want to buy a brick. It can be a problem if you don't know the history of the Mac or don't have access to the previous owner. Are you confident it is not enrolled in an MDM system or still have active iCloud account?

Who are you buying it from? Do you know its ownership history?
 
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So what is considered a good bATTERY bACK uP/Holding Capacity after these much use after 25 or 28 Battery Cycles?
25 cycles in 4 years means it either 1) its hasn't been used much or 2) it has been plugged in most of its active life. If it hasn't been used much you can expect near 100% capacity. If plugged in all the time, not such good news - capacity could be almost anything - never mind the cycles. I would be wanting to see the capacity of a 4 year old Mac as being 90% or more. If less than 85%, budget for battery replacement in the next year.
 
25 cycles in 4 years means it either 1) its hasn't been used much or 2) it has been plugged in most of its active life. If it hasn't been used much you can expect near 100% capacity. If plugged in all the time, not such good news - capacity could be almost anything - never mind the cycles. I would be wanting to see the capacity of a 4 year old Mac as being 90% or more. If less than 85%, budget for battery replacement in the next year.

So in effect what you are saying is, the battery health should be 90% and above and if that is it is not such a degraded battery is that what you mean ?
 
The battery count cycles is 71 actually and not 26 also the Battery Maximum Capacity is 93% in Battery Health Status.

Then how would you guys rate this battery condition ?
 
Can someone please tell me let’s say if I am buying a used MacBook Air what are the key things that I need to check in it to understand the kind of wear and tear that has happened in it, in terms of screen quality, battery, life, and other things are there any websites or any tools by which I can diagnose the amount of usage and wear and tear that has already happened on the device ?
Some of them:
  • check the speakers, it should be sounded solid on low and high tone and volume
  • check the ports (usb c and power plug). It should be instantly connected (usb and power - in orange/green light) and the connection is stable even the laptop was moved
  • check the keyboard. I avoid the “tired” keyboard, showed with lots of oil on its keys and “soft” feeling when pressed. Also check, are all keys has same feeling or few of them start unresponsive.
  • check the screen hinge. It shouldn't be too loose nor too tight. You should be able to open the screen without lifting the macbook
  • check the battery CC, but more importantly the battery life (especially if you can’t replace battery in authorized service on your area)
 
The battery count cycles is 71 actually and not 26 also the Battery Maximum Capacity is 93% in Battery Health Status.

Then how would you guys rate this battery condition ?
This is slightly below normal. Usually CC 71 will have > 95% battery health. If not, then it may be exposed to heat or plugged in for long periods, or it’s slightly defects (but still within tolerance).
 
The battery count cycles is 71 actually and not 26 also the Battery Maximum Capacity is 93% in Battery Health Status.

Then how would you guys rate this battery condition ?
I would say that's very good for a 4 year-old battery. If it was below 90%, then I would have second thoughts.

I have an M1 16" MBP, which is now 3.5 years old, with a cycle count of 213 and capacity of 93.7%. Some days I don't use it at all; some days I work it hard. It was plugged in permanently for about 6 months.

The cycle count represents how many times the entire battery has been used. So use from 100% to 50%, recharge to 100%, and use to 50% again is 1 cycle. (50% x 2). When used on power, the battery is still discharged a tiny bit, and recharged.

The M1 MBA was launched in November 2020, and replaced by the M2 in July 2022, so it is between 1650 and 1050 days old!
 
I would say that's very good for a 4 year-old battery. If it was below 90%, then I would have second thoughts.

I have an M1 16" MBP, which is now 3.5 years old, with a cycle count of 213 and capacity of 93.7%. Some days I don't use it at all; some days I work it hard. It was plugged in permanently for about 6 months.

The cycle count represents how many times the entire battery has been used. So use from 100% to 50%, recharge to 100%, and use to 50% again is 1 cycle. (50% x 2). When used on power, the battery is still discharged a tiny bit, and recharged.

The M1 MBA was launched in November 2020, and replaced by the M2 in July 2022, so it is between 1650 and 1050 days old!

So if other parameters match my requirements, for the battery health status I should go for it ? 93% Battery Health Status is a go ahead to buy it, considering I am not buying a brand new Mac ? Right ?
 
If I'm not mistaken, using the "erase all content and settings" option will do this automatically.

Never had to deal with this myself, but if the computer had be enrolled in Apple's MDM (mobile device management) system, depending on the settings, I think the only way to remove that is through the company that originally set it up. I don't think erasing will remove it, there have been multiple threads here where people found this out too late, after purchasing.

 
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