Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.

HumidSting

macrumors member
Original poster
Apr 8, 2018
30
3
Minneapolis, MN
I have an FV-T919 WiFi/BT card from my Hackintosh, and it requires a USB2 header for the bluetooth. I don't wanna shell out $150 for a OSXWifi card, and the IOGear dongle I got yesterday is really bad, so is there anyway to get it working inside my 5,1 Mac Pro?
 
I work at a repair shop and we have tons of Wifi cards up for grabs from MacBooks; which model do I need and which adapter do I need?
Any recent Mac laptop WiFi card will do

https://m.ebay.com/itm/MacBook-Air-...94360CS2-AP-/262144387375?txnId=2157542431016

M.2 adapter with A/E key
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KHRJVXW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then a standard m.2 to PCIe adapter.

I’m not sure where the antennae will go. You will need Bootcamp drivers to make it work on Windows. More info in this long thread:

https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/...dapter-handoff-unlock-with-watch-uefi.215895/

Or just have a look in the TonyMac hackingtosh buyers guide. They might have something simpler for 50 dollars or so.
 
As an Amazon Associate, MacRumors earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links in this post.
This is probably too late but might be useful for someone else. The original bluetooth adaptor connects to a modified USB connector on the backplane and you can use the two data lines from it if you are happy to solder some wires together. The details are all in this post
https://forums.macrumors.com/thread...orking-on-mac-pro-2010-keep-updating.1748061/

This...is actually pretty useful. I have a spare BT cable as I had to replace my backplane and the new one came with the BT card and the cable. And, the USB cable off of the WiFi/BT only has two cables, in pin one and two of a normal USB2 header. I’ll take some pictures later and see if you know what should go to wire A and B.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RedTomato
This...is actually pretty useful. I have a spare BT cable as I had to replace my backplane and the new one came with the BT card and the cable. And, the USB cable off of the WiFi/BT only has two cables, in pin one and two of a normal USB2 header. I’ll take some pictures later and see if you know what should go to wire A and B.

I haven't actually done this. I am in the same situation as you coming from a Hackintosh to a Mac Pro but I haven't got a spare PCI-E slot left to put my Wifi/BT PCI card into so I bought an adaptor from OSXWifi for $85. That said, I don't think you will do any damage if you connect the D+ and D- wires around the wrong way, it will either not work at all or just be very slow. So you have a 50% chance of getting it right first time ;)
 
I haven't actually done this. I am in the same situation as you coming from a Hackintosh to a Mac Pro but I haven't got a spare PCI-E slot left to put my Wifi/BT PCI card into so I bought an adaptor from OSXWifi for $85. That said, I don't think you will do any damage if you connect the D+ and D- wires around the wrong way, it will either not work at all or just be very slow. So you have a 50% chance of getting it right first time ;)
Well that was an adventure for me.

So the FV-T919 Bluetooth cable ends in a USB2 header as I said before. There are only two keys in that connector; one red wire in pin 5, and one black one in pin 3. Using a pinout diagram of USB2, pin 5 is D1+ and pin 3 is D1- (makes sense, red is positive, black is negative). So I removed the keys in order to give myself as much wire as I could. I then used a wire stripper to remove the key and some shielding. Then I took the spare Bluetooth cable for the OEM Bluetooth chip I had laying around. I cut off the end connecting to the chip itself, leaving as much wire as I could get connected to the board-side connector. Removed the two wires that the guide said were "useless", and stripped the A and B wires. I then had to make my decision, which was positive and which was negative. I chose A as positive because I dunno, it just seemed right. Spliced them, ghetto-electrical taped it together, and connected the main PCIe card and the wire up to everything. Turned it on and bam, I got AC WiFi and BT 4.0/LE.

I did have to removed the OEM Wifi chip to get everything to work flawlessly however. For some reason, turning off the OEM one turned off the PCIe one. It also affected Handoff/Continuity, and Apple Watch unlock. I did have to sign out of iCloud and back in to get those features to work however. All in all, I'm glad I saved $140 on a OSXWifi card; I can put that towards more RAM and new CPUs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RedTomato
Well that was an adventure for me.

So the FV-T919 Bluetooth cable ends in a USB2 header as I said before. There are only two keys in that connector; one red wire in pin 5, and one black one in pin 3. Using a pinout diagram of USB2, pin 5 is D1+ and pin 3 is D1- (makes sense, red is positive, black is negative). So I removed the keys in order to give myself as much wire as I could. I then used a wire stripper to remove the key and some shielding. Then I took the spare Bluetooth cable for the OEM Bluetooth chip I had laying around. I cut off the end connecting to the chip itself, leaving as much wire as I could get connected to the board-side connector. Removed the two wires that the guide said were "useless", and stripped the A and B wires. I then had to make my decision, which was positive and which was negative. I chose A as positive because I dunno, it just seemed right. Spliced them, ghetto-electrical taped it together, and connected the main PCIe card and the wire up to everything. Turned it on and bam, I got AC WiFi and BT 4.0/LE.

I did have to removed the OEM Wifi chip to get everything to work flawlessly however. For some reason, turning off the OEM one turned off the PCIe one. It also affected Handoff/Continuity, and Apple Watch unlock. I did have to sign out of iCloud and back in to get those features to work however. All in all, I'm glad I saved $140 on a OSXWifi card; I can put that towards more RAM and new CPUs.

Well done, good to know it worked.
 
Register on MacRumors! This sidebar will go away, and you'll see fewer ads.