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+1 for cape cod. Never Autosol. With patience Cape Cod will give much better results and eat those scratches for breakfast. I takes effort though.
 
Autosol works great and Cape Cod does as well.. I've used both in the past on other items that were not Apple Watches and both do the trick just fine!
 
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does it remove deep (ish) scratches or just the fine ones?

In my extensive experience with steel watches, the Cape Cod will only smooth out the edges of deep scratches, which would at least make it look a little better. it would literally take days and more elbow grease than any reasonable person can muster to eliminate deep scratches. And even if you could, you would likely notice where the metal was no longer even with the rest of the surface. one could, if they were skilled enough, use a dremel tool to fairly easily buff out deep scratches. but it's really tricky not to overdo it. you could also potentially damage the internals with the vibration.
 
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Dunno. I haven't buffed my SS AW (or any other watch) yet.

If I decide to try, I'll just use one of the polishing cloths we have laying around the house.

I would suggest not applying a cream-type polish to the watch itself (nor a liquid or paste), but apply it to the cloth instead, then let it dry before buffing the watch. You don't need chemicals working into the speaker or microphone holes or into the adhesive layers sandwiching the Force Press sensor.
 
Dunno. I haven't buffed my SS AW (or any other watch) yet.

If I decide to try, I'll just use one of the polishing cloths we have laying around the house.

I would suggest not applying a cream-type polish to the watch itself (nor a liquid or paste), but apply it to the cloth instead, then let it dry before buffing the watch. You don't need chemicals working into the speaker or microphone holes or into the adhesive layers sandwiching the Force Press sensor.

I had another go with autosol. I used a cotton wool bud, put a tiny bit on the end and using swirling patterns started to buff/polish. I avoided any hole for obvious reasons.

I then used tissue to remove excess polish and used a microfibre cloth to buff. Honestly, it removed so many scratches it's amazing really.

My only concern from all these polishes is a reaction with skin afterwards!
 
^^^^ What matters more for the actual polishing is the abrasive materials contained in the compound, not the liquid component. The liquid, whether it's like a cream or paste, is mainly just the carrier. Using a cream or paste is much easier than using a handful of microscopic diatom skeletons.

Brasso is different in that it contains a chemical to remove brass tarnish; Tarn-X works the same way.

But Autosol, Wright's, Flitz, Mother's (Mag & Aluminum polish), and others mostly use abrasives. The cool thing is, when you work them into a cloth like I described, the cloth becomes really good at polishing metal, and it'll stay that way until you wash it.
 
Could check a local grocery or hardware store, too.

(sorry -- still can't believe someone in my building has a subscription for meals from Blue Apron even though there's a grocery store on the corner of my block)
 
Might also want to check the cape cod website. They used to have a tool that tells you where you can find their products locally.
 
Your worst scratches were on the back, so you would be wise to think about where you lay your watch in the future, young man. ;)

I traded my old sports one for the SS model from CEX. The previous owner obviously didn't look after it that well. I look after my stuff really well! Which is why those scratches bugged the hell out of me. Virtually gone now anyway :)
 
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