Yes this is another "OmG Im AbOuT tO bUy A sLr" thread.
I plan on buying a D70 body. i don't have a lot of money to spend. i want maybe two lenses. I would like a nice zoom lens. Nothing crazy. Just a general zoom lens. Correct me if i'm wrong, but the human eye has the field of vision that would be a 30mm on a lens correct? What length is magnification? 17?
You probably don't want a "normal" field of view lens for the subjects you want to shoot. Your brain is pretty selective about focusing on the important elements in your field of view, but that's exactly why most "snapshots" don't isolate the subject well in photographs- the field of view is too large to isolate the subject in a noisy environment.
In laymen's terms i want a 1x to about 3x lens. This isn't my job, so quality doesn't have to be drop dead amazing. But zoomed i naturally i would still like the pictures to look good. And be quick enough to take action shots (atv racing, moving cars, animals etc etc) Could i get somthing like that for about $100-$250?
As far as freezing motion in fast-moving subjects- it really depends a lot on how much ambient light there is. I'd say about the ideal lens for the subjects you want to shoot is the 80-200mm two-ring zoom, which is a gem in terms of pure optical quality- and good used samples abound, but I think it's outside of your price range. If you're shooting in good light, or have good flash, then you can get away with slower lenses, and if you're not hyper-choosy, then the third party manufacturers like Sigma, Tamron and Tokina have some nice f/2.8 offerings.
Then the other lens i would liked to be a fixed lens. I would like this to also be a quick lens, and have 1.8-2.5f. for about the same price. I am still learning the in and outs of camera lenses, and why some are priced so high.
The 50mm lenses are at the best price point for a fast lens. On a 1.5x crop factor body, they'll be a very mild telephoto in terms of angle of view.
My last question is about the D70. How fast is the camera capable of auto-focusing, and then taking a picture? Do you hold the button to get it to auto, and then press again to take the shot? Or if im in a hurry can i just bring the camera up snap a picture and it comes out spot free? Or is this where knowing your camera and using the manual focusing come in?
It'll focus relatively quickly- though a lot depends on the lens. In general terms, Nikon camera bodies have three focus settings, Manual, Servo and Continuous. Manual focus is just that, Servo is focus, then shoot, and Continuous is just that. That'll be the CSM switch on the bottom of the body to the lens's left. In Servo mode, you half-press the shutter for focus, then fully depress it to take the shot, Same mechanics in Continuous mode, but the camera keeps adjusting focus while the shutter is half-pressed. Most Nikon cameras (I'm not sure about the D70) also have an AF-Lock button that allows the focus function to be linked to that button. Most Nikon bodies can also be set to only take a picture when things are in focus, or to just take the picture regardless- depending on mode. If you pre-focus on a spot, you'll generally get better results with most cameras, though the newer autofocus modules on the later cameras are starting to make that moot.
Depending on the subject and contrast at the subject, as well as where the lens is in its focal range, you can have almost instant pictures with AF on, or it can take up to about a third of a second. Having a Nikon flash unit, or other infra-red AF-assist light on the body can help, even if not taking flash pictures.
Personally, the only time I go wider than 70mm outside of the studio is when I'm shooting a land/cityscape, panorama or waterfall. I rarely shoot groups of people though- which is where I'd go for wider in general terms. Trackside with motorcycles, I don't know that I'd want less than 200mm and I'd be much happier with 300mm or 400mm, but I haven't shot quad races, so I don't know what you get in terms of distance or lead-in. Moving cars on a track, same sort of situation- I can always go back a bit at the inside of a turn- but I don't know if I'd be in the same mindset at a drag strip- a lot would depend on front vs side shots and available real estate. I've shot Indy cars trackside with a 35-70mm lens, but only because that's all I had at the time and I was at the track for reasons other than shooting- ideally, I'd have had at least 120mm and preferably 200+.
Here are some flickr ATV shots with a D70s
200mm
http://flickr.com/photo_exif.gne?id=256349710
http://flickr.com/photo_exif.gne?id=269009982
http://flickr.com/photo_exif.gne?id=252817455
http://flickr.com/photo_exif.gne?id=461747829
180mm
http://flickr.com/photo_exif.gne?id=319846193
120mm
http://flickr.com/photo_exif.gne?id=251949232
http://flickr.com/photo_exif.gne?id=250719819
70mm
http://flickr.com/photo_exif.gne?id=775969929
55mm
http://flickr.com/photo_exif.gne?id=154969119
50mm
http://flickr.com/photo_exif.gne?id=154969119
The shorter shots are obviously from quite close in, but it looks like 200mm isn't too bad a focal length for these kinds of shots.