I've been noticing more B/W photos in the POTD thread.
Wanted to start a discussion with some of my own thoughts and hoping others will chime in.
All of the following images were converted using Nik Silver Efex Pro2. All of the examples in this initial post are of the same subject: a Power Station in Providence, RI.
Importance of Light/Composition
These two shots were taken on different days. Similar framing between the two, but the light was very different.
The right light makes or breaks a photo. One of the basic rules of photography, but it really can't be stressed enough. I also like the sky better in the second with the clouds. And while there is a gull present on the left side of both, its placement in the second photo is much better. Right place at the right time.
Bad light. The sun was hidden in clouds, making the stacks fairly uniform in tone. Kind of ho-hum.
Better light. The sun was peeking through some clouds varying the tone of the stacks. Not harsh enough to add significant shadow lines to the building, but introduced some variability to the appearance of the stacks.
Different B/W conversions
I generally play with 5 different conversions in Silver Efex Pro2. High Structure (harsh and smooth), Full Dynamic Range (harsh and smooth), and the neutral conversion. I will also play with the different color filters (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and no filter).
All of these settings can have a dramatic impact on the final image. Some are more dramatic than others. Some work well for a given image and not at all for another image.
The biggest issue I've come to watch out for is the tendency for some filters (when applied to certain images) to make things start looking processed and not natural. In itself this isn't an issue as creatively it can be okay to make an image more dramatic. The biggest thing to watch out for is avoiding artifacts similar to those that can crop up in HDR photography: very easy to start getting haloes around transition points that don't look artistic but just bad. Sometimes really bad.
There are haloes in both of the following. Modest in the full dynamic range conversion, more pronounced in the high structure conversion.
Full dynamic range. While the haloes are subtle, also note the fairly dramatic breaks in the shadows as you move across each stack. Clear lines rather than gradual transitions.
High structure. Haloes are more obvious as are the shadow transitions as you move across each stack.
Neutral conversion with a yellow filter applied to darken the sky a bit. Minimal haloes, smoothest shadow transition across each stack.
Final thoughts
Loving all the B/W photos posted in the POTD thread. Sometimes the conversions seem to introduce artifacts that make them look extremely post-processed.
Would welcome the feedback of others
Wanted to start a discussion with some of my own thoughts and hoping others will chime in.
All of the following images were converted using Nik Silver Efex Pro2. All of the examples in this initial post are of the same subject: a Power Station in Providence, RI.
Importance of Light/Composition
These two shots were taken on different days. Similar framing between the two, but the light was very different.
The right light makes or breaks a photo. One of the basic rules of photography, but it really can't be stressed enough. I also like the sky better in the second with the clouds. And while there is a gull present on the left side of both, its placement in the second photo is much better. Right place at the right time.

Bad light. The sun was hidden in clouds, making the stacks fairly uniform in tone. Kind of ho-hum.

Better light. The sun was peeking through some clouds varying the tone of the stacks. Not harsh enough to add significant shadow lines to the building, but introduced some variability to the appearance of the stacks.
Different B/W conversions
I generally play with 5 different conversions in Silver Efex Pro2. High Structure (harsh and smooth), Full Dynamic Range (harsh and smooth), and the neutral conversion. I will also play with the different color filters (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and no filter).
All of these settings can have a dramatic impact on the final image. Some are more dramatic than others. Some work well for a given image and not at all for another image.
The biggest issue I've come to watch out for is the tendency for some filters (when applied to certain images) to make things start looking processed and not natural. In itself this isn't an issue as creatively it can be okay to make an image more dramatic. The biggest thing to watch out for is avoiding artifacts similar to those that can crop up in HDR photography: very easy to start getting haloes around transition points that don't look artistic but just bad. Sometimes really bad.
There are haloes in both of the following. Modest in the full dynamic range conversion, more pronounced in the high structure conversion.

Full dynamic range. While the haloes are subtle, also note the fairly dramatic breaks in the shadows as you move across each stack. Clear lines rather than gradual transitions.

High structure. Haloes are more obvious as are the shadow transitions as you move across each stack.

Neutral conversion with a yellow filter applied to darken the sky a bit. Minimal haloes, smoothest shadow transition across each stack.
Final thoughts
Loving all the B/W photos posted in the POTD thread. Sometimes the conversions seem to introduce artifacts that make them look extremely post-processed.
Would welcome the feedback of others
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