Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.

TechSteph

macrumors newbie
Original poster
May 8, 2020
12
2
Hello all. I’ve been recently looking into getting more older macs, but I want to purchase one that is the best for running 10.6 SL or older. Preferably looking into computers that have easy-to-access Memory Slots, and easily upgradable in terms of Hardware. Also looking for a model with USB slots, Headphone I/O Jacks (ports), and a CD/DVD Drive. Also one that is of good value and not too harsh on my wallet.

I’ve heard that the 17” Macbook Pro is the best in terms of performance and screen quality, but it’s too expensive where I live, and most Macs from that era are already most likely beat up and worn out. The white Macbooks are not a good choice either, since they are practically the same as the Macbook Pros of the era, but have a plastic exterior, which makes it less durable. Desktop iMacs and eMacs take up too much space in my house, and are quite expensive and heavy to bring around.

What model should I pick?
 
Personally, I would go with the Black MacBook if you can find one in good condition. Why are you wanting an order Mac if I may ask? The 17 inch is going for less than $300 in most cases…So I am bit confused on what you mean by, “not to harsh on my wallet?”

What are you wanting to use it for? What is your budget?
 
I have a mid-2010 MacBook, which has easily accessible, upgradable RAM (mine has 16GB installed) + SSD, and can dual boot 10.6.8 and Catalina (when patched).

It's AMAZING - I can boot up in Snow Leopard one minute, and then a modern(ish) OS the next. Both 'just work'.

Its a superb machine, and a damn slight cheaper than, say, the mid-2012 MacBook Pro. I found mine on eBay for £50, and it is now my daily driver.

Re: the polycarbonate shell - I had an original white MacBook back in the day, and yes, it slowly fell apart. The redesigned unibody one, though, doesn't seem to suffer with similar problems - mine is still pristine.

Enjoy your search!
 
According to this, early-2011 are the latest Macbook Pro models that can run Snow Leopard. So that's what I would get.

There are ways to get 10.6 on a mid 2012 late 2011; I’ll place a link to a list of macs that can run Snow Leopard below.

Edit: turns out I was reading Mac Pro, not MacBook Pro, for the 2012. Sorry about that!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Amethyst1
There are ways to get 10.6 on a mid 2012;
With so many caveats that it's very limited. :)

I want to purchase one that is the best for running 10.6 SL or older.
My two cents, after excluding iMacs, MacBooks and Mac Pros but including Mac minis because they’re small:
  • 10.4: 2006/2007 Mac mini or 2006/2007/early 2008 MacBook Pro — the 2007/2008 MBPs were plagued by defective NVIDIA GPUs, so make sure you get one that has a revised GPU or replace the GPU yourself
  • 10.5: 2009 Mac mini or 2006—2009 MacBook Pro — see note about 2007/2008 MBPs
  • 10.6: 2011 2.3 GHz Mac mini without AMD GPU or 2011 Mac mini Server (10.6 will run unofficially) or 2011 13" MacBook Pro (with regards to 15" and 17" 2011 MBPs: they have defective, unfixable AMD GPUs — same goes for the 2011 2.5 GHz Mac mini with AMD GPU)
I’ve heard that the 17” Macbook Pro is the best in terms of performance and screen quality, [...]
The issues with 17" MBPs are
  • 2006 models can be subject to an overheating/dying ATI GPU [my Late 2006 17”was fine though]
  • 2007 and 2008 models are widely affected by defective NVIDIA GPUs (fixable: GPU needs to be replaced)
  • 2010 models are affected by crashes due to a defective capacitor (fixable: capacitor needs to be replaced)
  • 2011 models are widely affected by defective AMD GPUs (not fixable: you can just disable the AMD GPU)
 
Last edited:
Hello all. I’ve been recently looking into getting more older macs, but I want to purchase one that is the best for running 10.6 SL or older. Preferably looking into computers that have easy-to-access Memory Slots, and easily upgradable in terms of Hardware. Also looking for a model with USB slots, Headphone I/O Jacks (ports), and a CD/DVD Drive. Also one that is of good value and not too harsh on my wallet.

Folks here have been providing you with excellent pointers and advice. Hopefully the following won’t complicate the decision-making too much.

I’m thinking about priority given to Snow Leopard (which is sort of my thing around here) when figuring out hardware to pick, coupled with the latitude of picking another OS to use — in the event you either tire of Snow Leopard or wish to set up the laptop with two or more OSes on different partitions.

That said, focus on 2008–09 models — namely, the unibody MacBook (there was only one, late 2008); the late 2008 15-inch MacBook Pro; and pretty much any of the 2009 MacBook Pros, MacBook Airs, and/or MacBooks, as all of these run Snow Leopard flawlessly, as designed by Apple, and they can run (or be coaxed to run) Leopard at the one end, while also able to run much higher versions of OS X (and even macOS) at the other. MacBook Airs aside, all have easy-to-access RAM slots and easy-to-fairly-easy-to-access hard drives.

These are all going to be fully 64-bit systems, and as @Amethyst1 noted already, 2009-era Macs have tended to experience fewer, long-term chronic issues (like bad GPUs and/or logic boards). All of these were, as well, late-era Penryn Core 2 Duo systems. These have been shown, with non-Apple hacks, to continue running macOS smoothly all the way into the post-Mojave era.

I owned an early 2009 13-inch MBP from new. I’d likely still have it now were it not for my accidentally killing it with a can of coconut water in 2011 (its 2011 replacement, an early 2011 13-inch MBP, is still in use and it still runs the same build of Snow Leopard — originally installed on that 2009 MBP — to this day). It also took on blunt-force trauma shortly after I bought it from Apple, but the worst the impact did was it bent the solid, unibody case; the system itself, which was in sleep mode when struck, woke from sleep mode as if it was any other time, and the screen didn’t crack or fail.

A second-stream pick: any 2010 or 2011 13-inch MacBook/MacBook Pro or 2010 MacBook Air.

Pre-2008 Intel Mac laptops were a bit of a dog’s breakfast, with their own in-designed limitations (like 32-bit processors or hybrid, 64-bit processors but 32-bit EFI firmware), or widely faulty GPUs; post-2009 models I didn’t mention either have more of those faulty GPUs (again, as other folks have noted) and/or require clever workarounds to run 10.6.8 (but will run nothing — absolutely nothing — earlier).


I’ve heard that the 17” Macbook Pro is the best in terms of performance and screen quality, but it’s too expensive where I live, and most Macs from that era are already most likely beat up and worn out. The white Macbooks are not a good choice either, since they are practically the same as the Macbook Pros of the era, but have a plastic exterior, which makes it less durable. Desktop iMacs and eMacs take up too much space in my house, and are quite expensive and heavy to bring around.

Although you nix the idea of polycarbonate MacBooks, the same general idea around the problems with that (i.e., visible wear, ageing components) applies to aluminium models.

In the end, the Mac you want — and have budgeted for — may take some patience and persistence with searching to find an exemplary example in your area which got very little use and whose seller just wants to get rid of it to free up more room in their home (not to make a tonne of money). They might even still be in the original box.

This does mean having to keep a keen eye for tiny details in a sale listing and having the good timing of finding a good example very soon after it’s put up for sale, but they do turn up. And when they do, you’ll not only be getting a pristine example, but it’s one you can continue to keep in excellent condition for many years to come. Pretty much any Mac laptop from that era, were I to find one in pristine shape around here and could buy it for a good price, is a Mac I’d buy in a heartbeat, even if I personally don’t need another Mac in this home. :)

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
That said, focus on 2008–09 models — namely, the unibody MacBook (there was only one, late 2008); the late 2008 15-inch MacBook Pro; and pretty much any of the 2009 MacBook Pros, MacBook Airs, and/or MacBooks, [...]
Two things to note about the late 2008 and mid-2009 MacBook Airs is that their CPUs are known to throttle under load and they take 1.8-inch 4200-rpm SATA hard drives or SSDs. The former are quite slow, the latter are also slower and harder to come by than 2.5-inch models or even the "blades" used by late 2010 and later MBAs.
 
Last edited:
Definitely 13" MacBook Pro 2011, especially with Snow Leopard! (I'm a BIG SL fan and this is my main work machine, btw.) It is twice as fast as 2010 or 2009 models and not only on Geekbench, but also when compiling stuff, like Qt, for example. I have them all and can speak from my own experience. Plus it has 6gb SATA as opposed to 3gb on 2009/2010 models, it has Thunderbolt, AND it can accomodate 16GB of 1600Mhz(!) DDR3 memory. What else one can ask for? ;) Installing Snow Leopard on it is a bit tricky, but it could be done.***
Also, 13" 2009 models have problems with sound on mini display port.

*** Methods of modifying 10.6.7 installer described in various places on the web are NOT CORRECT! Instead of copying over a bunch of printer drivers and OSInstall.mpkg from retail installer or adding MacBookPro8,1 to the Distribution file, one just has to _delete_ a few lines from it. Hint - diff compare that file from 10.6.7 iMc/MBP and from 10.6.3 retail installers.

@ B S Magnet, if you reading this.. Do you still have your WD My Book Studio II external case? If so, I'd like to ask a couple of questions.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Amethyst1
Installing Snow Leopard on it is a bit tricky, but it could be done.
Not at all — if you have the grey installer discs that came with the early 2011 13” MacBook Pro. Just pop in and install. ;)
 
Yes, you're right. I've got them mixed up with the 2011 Mac Minis.😆
 
Not at all — if you have the grey installer discs that came with the early 2011 13” MacBook Pro. Just pop in and install. ;)

Incidentally, the early 2011 13-inch MBP I bought from Apple, in mid-August 2011, lacked those grey DVD installer discs. This is because, of course, it came pre-installed with 10.7. Fortunately, and in having no interest to ever run Lion on it, I merely transplanted my 10.6.8 HDD from the 2009 MBP it replaced over into the 2011 — long enough to then upgrade that HDD’s contents to an SSD. :)

(I still have that OEM HDD with Lion on it. If I ran a smartmontools test, it would probably show it has a total of less than ten hours’ worth of total run time.)
 
  • Like
Reactions: ojfd and Amethyst1
This is probably OT. Shall we move it to its own thread or PM? Apologies to OP.

I recently bought several My Book Studios and Studio II for my backup needs. All Firewire. For the past month I've been researching firmware issues + capability to use larger capacity drives and drives from other manufacturers (SSD included). I wanted to know what your experience is and whether you have any old WD firmware installers for Mac lying around. WD stopped supporting these around 2014 or so..
 
This is probably OT. Shall we move it to its own thread or PM? Apologies to OP.

I recently bought several My Book Studios and Studio II for my backup needs. All Firewire. For the past month I've been researching firmware issues + capability to use larger capacity drives and drives from other manufacturers (SSD included). I wanted to know what your experience is and whether you have any old WD firmware installers for Mac lying around. WD stopped supporting these around 2014 or so..

Short sidebar, concluded:

For Snow Leopard, you will want this version of the WD Drive Manager (v3.10.14).

Firmware for the WD My Book Studio series relied on WD Green HDDs. WD stopped making those a while ago. When they ended that line, they moved WD Green-line customers to a specific line of WD Blue HDDs — the line which does not have 7200rpm platter speeds and which does not employ SMR writing scheme (CMR only!). [This resource reports on which models use SMR or CMR.]

In 2019, I upgraded the pair of 1TB WD Green HDDs to 4TB WD Blue HDDs [WD40EZRZ] (the 5400rpm series 64MB cache uses CMR and is denoted with the “R” I bolded; you will want to avoid the 256MB-cache models, as these use the SMR scheme, which is why they need a larger cache). These work in the MyBook Studio II as if they’re the WD Green line the firmware expects. Earlier this year, I eyed the brand-new 8TB series (WD80EAZZ), which also use a CMR write scheme, but with their atypical 5640rpm spin speed, I hesitated to buy them without having a backup plan for how I could set these up as a hardware RAID 1 in the event the MyBook Studio II case rejected them.

As for trying to run WD Blue 2.5-inch SSDs inside, I have no idea whether the firmware will accept them as “WD Greens, but weirdly peppy,” or out-and-out reject them as fundamentally different from what is expected, drive-firmware-wise.

I hope that begins to clear up things and settle this sidebar. :)
 
Definitely 13" MacBook Pro 2011, especially with Snow Leopard! [...] Plus it has 6gb SATA as opposed to 3gb on 2009/2010 models, it has Thunderbolt, AND it can accomodate 16GB of 1600Mhz(!) DDR3 memory. What else one can ask for? ;)
A quad-core CPU. :)
 
The 15"/17" 2011s have unfixable AMD dGPUs. No way. :)

Given the number of years we’ve known about the AMD GPU fault and the workaround to use, exclusively, the same integrated Intel graphics GPU as what appears on the 13-inch models, I’ll be willing to pick up one of those and run the hack to just bypass the faulty AMD GPU. It would be a step up from my early 2011 13-inch. At this point, that’s really all one can do with them, for worse or better.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Amethyst1
Register on MacRumors! This sidebar will go away, and you'll see fewer ads.