Resolved Bought an MBP 5,1 @ storage sale. Need help bypassing old user’s sign in, to install SSD & upgrade

[Kevbasscat]

I bought a storage locker that had been sitting untouched for over 5 years for $150. It had $13-$15,000 in recording gear and an MBP 5,1. Bought a new battery for it, and it booted right up to the old user’s password sign in. I have no idea how to get past this, but it’s evident the old owner is no longer interested.

So my question is, how do I get past that to install a new SSD, upgrade DDR3, and the operating system?. I’m very recently retired and just starting out doing any computer work or upgrades, although, I’m very interested in learning and have had a career in electronics.

I’ve only owned 2 Mac's since 1999. Neither of them ever had a single issue, other than the backup button battery died on the G3 Silver…in ’06. "If it ain’t broke," is the source of my ignorance, and now I come to ask you for your kind help.

Thank you in advance.

 

[Fishrrman]

Are you booting to a "firmware password" or the regular account login password?

The difference between the two is important.

With a regular login password, the computer boots, and you'll see a background, and it will ask for a password.

A firmware password is different. You press the power-on button, and get a relatively "grey screen" with a very simple entry box for a login code. Without that code, the computer won't even continue to boot.

If it's only the account login password you don't have, the solution is to boot from a USB flashdrive with a copy of the OS installer on it. Then, erase the drive, install a clean copy of the OS, and start over.

You can make the bootable flashdrive yourself, but you need access to another WORKING Mac.

If you don't have that, you can go to ebay and find sellers who will sell you a USB flashdrive with a bootable copy of the OS (of your choice) already on it. Will cost about $20.

I would suggest OS 10.11 (El Capitan) or OS 10.12 ("Low" Sierra).

The idea is to get the MBP booting first, even with the existing drive and RAM.
Once you've got it working and bootable, then concentrate on upgrading the hardware.

 

[Kevbasscat]

Are you booting to a "firmware password" or the regular account login password?

The difference between the two is important.

With a regular login password, the computer boots, and you'll see a background, and it will ask for a password.

A firmware password is different. You press the power-on button, and get a relatively "grey screen" with a very simple entry box for a login code. Without that code, the computer won't even continue to boot.

If it's only the account login password you don't have, the solution is to boot from a USB flashdrive with a copy of the OS installer on it. Then, erase the drive, install a clean copy of the OS, and start over.

You can make the bootable flashdrive yourself, but you need access to another WORKING Mac.

If you don't have that, you can go to ebay and find sellers who will sell you a USB flashdrive with a bootable copy of the OS (of your choice) already on it. Will cost about $20.

I would suggest OS 10.11 (El Capitan) or OS 10.12 ("Low" Sierra).

The idea is to get the MBP booting first, even with the existing drive and RAM.
Once you've got it working and bootable, then concentrate on upgrading the hardware.

I just booted in single user mode, it boots fine, I just don’t have the guy who used to own it’s password and no way to reach him.

I have an early ’09 iMac, 9,1 with 10.11.6 on it. If I look I may have the Lion or Mountain Lion disks. I know I copies of "Install OS X Mountain Lion.app," and "Install OS X Mavericks.app," in the applications folder of the 9, iMac. What is the best way to load that onto the mbp? I’ll need each step, as I’ve never attempted it before, but I’m a quick study, I hope.

Btw, The mbp got very warm very quickly, leading me to believe the GPU may be bad. It was almost burning my thigh.
[doublepost=1532273470][/doublepost]

I just booted in single user mode, it boots fine, I just don’t have the guy who used to own it’s password and no way to reach him.

I have an early ’09 iMac, 9,1 with 10.11.6 on it. If I look I may have the Lion or Mountain Lion disks. I know I copies of "Install OS X Mountain Lion.app," and "Install OS X Mavericks.app," in the applications folder of the 9, iMac. What is the best way to load that onto the mbp? I’ll need each step, as I’ve never attempted it before, but I’m a quick study, I hope.

Btw, The mbp got very warm very quickly, leading me to believe the GPU may be bad. It was almost burning my thigh.

Those are the 5.5Gb Apps.

 

[ApfelKuchen]

Based on its age, that machine may or may not be able to boot to Internet Recovery - depends on if the EFI was updated. If it was (something that would have happened if it was updated to Lion or higher), then you won't need a bootable USB flash drive, just an Internet connection. Follow the instructions here: https://support.apple.com/HT204904 and follow the instructions for erasing the hard disk before reinstalling. That'll accomplish several things, including disassociating the Mac from the previous owner's Apple ID.

Alternately, you could use Single User Mode to create a new Administrator account, after which you can delete the previous owner's Admin account. You'll find instructions here: https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/164331/i-dont-have-administrator-account-on-my-mac . However, a full erase of the HDD is still the preferred way to go, as I mentioned above.

 

[Kevbasscat]

Based on its age, that machine may or may not be able to boot to Internet Recovery - depends on if the EFI was updated. If it was (something that would have happened if it was updated to Lion or higher), then you won't need a bootable USB flash drive, just an Internet connection. Follow the instructions here: https://support.apple.com/HT204904 and follow the instructions for erasing the hard disk before reinstalling. That'll accomplish several things, including disassociating the Mac from the previous owner's Apple ID.

Alternately, you could use Single User Mode to create a new Administrator account, after which you can delete the previous owner's Admin account. You'll find instructions here: https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/164331/i-dont-have-administrator-account-on-my-mac . However, a full erase of the HDD is still the preferred way to go, as I mentioned above.

Thank you. Do I go into recovery, then firmware password under utilities and check for the efi version, or where do I look, if not? If it has been updated which version should it be the ? If it’s not updated, That should be done. If not what will the original version will it be, so I‘ll know to ask for help with that also.

I just knew to press S+ Command to log into single user mode, but then I had no idea what to do other than type in fsck -fy. It forced it to verify, and it did perfectly.

I bought two, 2 Intel SATA II 3G, 160Gb ssd’s, and I am receiving them tomorrow, so if the mbp is not 6G we’re good. I’ll just pull that drive and replace it with the ssd.

I have a Seagate 2Tb Hdd in the 9,1 iMac, and I was hoping to place the ssd under the super drive. There is easily enough room, and then create a fusion drive if I can. Any suggestions on how to achieve that and are there shortcomings other than a slower response time for files?? I’m still reading up on that. I have an adapter kit with various cables SATA, power etc.

Is there a way for me to test the GPU, to see if it has failed? The mbp got very very warm in about 5 mins of run time. I suspect it may be. I have the "MacBook Pro dGPU Disabler.app," from dosedude1, for my mbp 8,2. Wonder if it works on the 5,1 also? I’ll ask.

 

[chown33]

If the MBP has been sitting there that long, maybe the heat-sink grease has failed. I don't recall which models use grease (white) and which use a silicone heat-conducting pad (pink, in my experience, but could be any color), so that suggestion could be way off.

It's also possible there's dust on the internal components (and heat-sink) that's impeding the effectiveness of any air flow. This could lead to elevated temperatures regardless of heat-sink grease condition. The dust might even be restricting the input or output vents.

Those will both require opening it up and looking. The dust should be obvious, if it's present. The heat-sink grease might take more experience to diagnose. In general, if it's crusty it's bad. Or if the component has separated from its heat-sink (metal) for any reason, then it doesn't matter what the grease's condition is, it's not working as intended.

 

[Kevbasscat]

If the MBP has been sitting there that long, maybe the heat-sink grease has failed. I don't recall which models use grease (white) and which use a silicone heat-conducting pad (pink, in my experience, but could be any color), so that suggestion could be way off.

It's also possible there's dust on the internal components (and heat-sink) that's impeding the effectiveness of any air flow. This could lead to elevated temperatures regardless of heat-sink grease condition. The dust might even be restricting the input or output vents.

Those will both require opening it up and looking. The dust should be obvious, if it's present. The heat-sink grease might take more experience to diagnose. In general, if it's crusty it's bad. Or if the component has separated from its heat-sink (metal) for any reason, then it doesn't matter what the grease's condition is, it's not working as intended.

Thank you. I am very familiar with heat sink grease, and the effects of it drying out or becoming ineffective, in audio gear and power supplies. If that’s the case, I’d like to buy the best, most effective and longest lasting make. Can you or anyone recommend one? I’ll do this anyway. So the 5,1 doesn’t suffer the fate of my 8,2 which just crashed 10 mins ago and won’t restart. The GPU had been disabled, and was only using the Intel 3000 graphics. Aww, a lovely day, lol.

Isn’t there a modded heat sink with a larger surface area available? I saw one on youTube, but they didn’t reference where to purchase it.

 

[Beachguy]

Also keep in mind the heat dissipation was poor on the Core2 chips- I have an HP which literally melted its case just running normally. Some of what you are experiencing may simply be older design issues...

 

[Kevbasscat]

Also keep in mind the heat dissipation was poor on the Core2 chips- I have an HP which literally melted its case just running normally. Some of what you are experiencing may simply be older design issues...

Has anyone ever modded the case to vent from the bottom, and kept it elevated on a fan blown cooling stand? Probably a dumb question but it needs more effective heat dissipation, which it will get when I polish or replace the heat sink assembly, with a highly polished larger surface assembly, if I can locate where it’s sold. I may have seen this on the 2011 GPU fix on youTube, I may have my mbp’s crossed, lol.