If you have decided to delve into digital photography, it may be to your benefit to study your medium a bit. Then you will learn that, regarding the technical level of an image, the line of work is “lens, sensor, in-camera software.” And, even with the most expensive digital outfit, post-processing is unavoidable.
The yield you mention, a few ‘keepers’ out of 600, is quite common; get used and learn to live with it. Most likely, it’s not you fault and definitely not the camera’s.
Thank you! It was good to hear I wasn't off-base. I think I've not shot somewhere around 800 photos (in 48 hours!) and the advice OldMacs4Me gave was spot-on: Auto+ mode isn't the automatic mode I need, at all: Program Mode made a big difference in the number of save-worthy images. And as I've learned a little more about the camera, that's helped. (I was originally shooting RAW + JPEG, but it took several seconds to save. Switching to JPEG only allows continuous, relatively-fast capture.)
You won't really find a dedicated camera that can give you an iPhone look right out of the gate (at least with the current offerings - maybe in 10 years you will). But phone cameras are packed with algorithms and HDR and AI stuff that post process the hell out of the image the instant you take it. With a dedicated camera, you have to do that all on your own after you take the image. And there's a big learning curve to it, but in the end you'll end up with a much better image in terms of sharpness, light handling, resolution. But it's not instant.
As AFB said, a camera doesn't know what the scene is and how you want to capture it; an iPhone doesn't either, but has such a deep depth of field that basically everything is in focus so it's kind of hard to mess up.
I haven't shot in auto mode on a camera in over 15 years, but I'm not inherently surprised that your camera is choosing ISO 3200 inside; you'd be surprised at how dim interiors are in terms of actual light volume, but our brains compensate in ways that a camera can't.
What kind of lens are you using on your Canon? I'd guess you have a kit lens with a relatively narrow aperture that just isn't designed for indoor use which is limiting the settings on your camera. You might do well finding an inexpensive 50mm f/1.8 lens, which will give you faster shutter speeds indoors (although as a trade off, you won't necessarily have a lot in focus if you are shooting a f/1.8).
If you are serious about photography, you'll have to invest some time with the exposure triangle and figuring out how to make your camera work for you, vs expecting it to just work out of the box, but if you don't want that hassle, then using your iPhone exclusively is certainly a valid option. 🙂
Your assumption is right: an 18mm-55m kit lens, and it seems like the lowest (?) f-stop is f/3.5. I know the iPhone is closer to f/1.75, and it seems like the iPhone produces the best pictures with ISOs of 100-400. I tried those settings on the Canon and it didn't help! But, shooting in Program mode made a big difference. (Why Program mode seems to be more automatic than Auto+, makes no sense to me... but it is!)
If I keep the Canon, I may go for the 50mm Prime lens, especially if that'll help in low light. Most of the time I can move around and don't need to rely on zoom, so it may be a good option. I may also stick to the iPhone indoors, and iPhone + Canon outside. I went out and took some pictures of the mountains with the Canon and iPhone, and while I prefer the color of the iPhone photos, the Canon photos were so much better. More details in the mountains and mid-ground objects.
Thanks for the advice!
Just some observations. I have two cameras that are mainly used as P&S. An Olympus TG-6 (waterproof) and a Panasonic Lumix ZS 200. I tried both cameras in auto mode and in both cases that lasted for about 3 frames. Switching over to P (program) mode does several things. It gives me control over the ISO, allows me to disable the flash, allows me to pick where I want the camera to focus. Camera still selects aperture and shutter speed. Setting the ISO at 400 assures adequate shutter speeds out doors. I will go as high as ISO 800 on the Oly, and the Panasonic having a larger sensor will usually deliver good images at ISO 1600.
Auto mode is entirely dependent on AI and at the current state of camera development, AI means: Anti-Intelligence.
Ask and expect nothing of the flashes on these cameras. To extend battery life the guide number is literally in the single digits. Even with a flash these cameras need a very high ISO when working indoors with bad light. I have used them as fill flash out doors if the subject is less than a foot away.
All of that said, the T5 is a DSLR and spending a couple of weeks doing menu and user-manual dives would be time very well spent. As
@mollyc suggested Aperture preferred shooting mode may well give the combination of simplicity and control that you are looking for.
This was the magic answer! Program mode made my camera more of the "automatic" experience I hoped for! I even left ISO as auto and the camera did a good job choosing an ISO that made my pictures sharp and appropriately bright.
The flash was making me so mad in Auto+ mode. When it used the flash, the pictures were much sharper - but skin tones were destroyed. I learned a long time ago - maybe back with the 4S - that flash could help but should generally be avoided, and that's been my attitude ever since with iPhone photos.
Part of me wonders if something newer, like the Fuji X-E4, would be a better camera for me. The reviews rave about the quality and colors of the Fuji. But, $1300 used was just a bit much for me. Maybe if I stick with this for a while, it'll be worth looking at again.
Thanks for the advice, and getting me on the right track with Program mode!
