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tnkrmdc

Cancelled
Original poster
Sep 1, 2009
26
3
Today, I was asked to take photos at a concert this coming week. It will not be for money or that. They just want me to take photos to help them remember the concert so I agreed to help.
I have a Nikon D90 and I have only been shooting it since late July or so. I am going to bring my 1.8D 35mm, friend's 2.8 70-200 VR and possibly my 14-24 2.8. I don't know what the lights will be like or that. I am going to have a test run on Tuesday.
What I am mostly wondering is will I be able to use my Nikkor 105mm 2.8 Micro in a concert? I have shot some nice portrait shots in day light but I am wondering how it will work in possibly a low light setting. Has anyone tried shooting with it at a concert? I understand that I will have no zoom so that will be a draw back but it would force me to think more about what and how I am shooting it. Should I even bother bringing it and just stick with the 70-200mm? I would appreciate any info. Thanks.
 

tnkrmdc

Cancelled
Original poster
Sep 1, 2009
26
3
Thanks. I guess that I will be looking at getting a 50mm 1.8 to add to my arsenal.
 

finnschi

macrumors 6502
Dec 30, 2008
460
0
Hamburg, Germany
For a concert setting, unless you have a D3 or D700, 2.8 is too slow.

actually... 2.8 on ISO 1600 is USABLE, maybe you should try to "reconstruct" low light in your house... or visit a show at this location beforehand and play around...

YOu could also use a Tripod, or for better movement a Monopod.. also on most stages the band is pretty well lit ... (you have colored beams comming from everwhere) If you don't plan on taking photos of the whole stage but rather the persons playing (which i assume you do) 2.8 shouldn't be a problem, but 1.8 will be a problem for people holding big instruments... you can either get the instrument OR the persons face... on 2.8 you have a wider DOF so its better!

I shoot lots of shows just fine with my 50mm(on 1.6 crop) F/1.4 .... stopped down to 2.8/3.5 and this is not a issue at all :D

Stages just look dark but they really aren't...

one more tip= shoot in RAW because of the weird lighting AWB gets screwed up , you should do it in POST... :D or you pictures will have weird color... :eek:
 

bocomo

macrumors 6502
Jun 29, 2007
495
0
New York
So, how did professional photographers do it before 'digital' with film cameras? What lenses/film?

i would always use ilford 3200 speed black and white film back in the day

or kodak's 3200 if i wanted enhanced grain




basically, fast glass is your friend
get a test run on location and you'll be fine
 

peskaa

macrumors 68020
Mar 13, 2008
2,104
5
London, UK
For a concert setting, unless you have a D3 or D700, 2.8 is too slow.

Total lies!
f/2.8 is fine for a band who have a "stage show" of some kind, ie: lights and plenty of them. Sure, you'll struggle if you're shooting a band in a bar or a tiny venue, but a proper gig setup is perfectly shootable at f/2.8. I remember shooting Coheed & Cambria at f/2.8, ISO 400.


Now, the 50/85mm fast lenses are useful, but saying no concert, ever, can be shot at f/2.8 is just...wrong. Hell, one of my festival lenses is a 400 f/4!
 

tnkrmdc

Cancelled
Original poster
Sep 1, 2009
26
3
Thanks guys for your responses. I will be heading to the practice tomorrow so I will get to see what the lighting is going to be like. I will have my 35mm, a 50mm and my friend's 70-200 f/2.8. I am willing to shoot at 1600 iso, if I have too. I am not going to be able to setup a tripod so everything will be hand held from what I have been told. Like I said before, I will have a test run tomorrow night so I will see how that goes. Thanks.:D
 

tnkrmdc

Cancelled
Original poster
Sep 1, 2009
26
3
Why a 1.8? The f/1.4 is faster. If you the price is an issue buy a used f/1.4 lens.

Another lens to consider that is reasonably affordable is the 85mm f/1.8.

I looked at the 85mm f/1.8. I will probably try and get that as one of my next lenses. I have spent a bit on my lenses so far. I have spent somewhere north of 4000 dollars on my camera and equipment in the last three months or so. I am a "poor" college student who is living off of my MGIB.
I read a lot of reviews of people saying that there wasn't enough difference between 50mm f/1.4 and f/1.8 lenses. I opted for the slightly cheaper f/1.8 for now. Someday, I will have a solid job with a solid income, then I can really afford to spend on my favorite hobby of photography. :D
 

mofunk

macrumors 68020
Aug 26, 2009
2,421
161
Americas
It's not too slow. lol I used it with my D90 and it works well. You probably have to use a foot zoom. I would say its almost like having a 70-200mm lens but sharper especially when you are standing 10-15ft from the stage. 85mm is nice too. The only problem I have with using that is when you are standing in front of the stage, and try to photograph subject at the end of the stage the 85mm doesn't focus well.

Video with 105mm, I suggest using a monopod. My arms got very tired from holding it. I shot this while I was in front of the stage.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXsZ457P8l8

Don't forget you can find them used. If you are accoustom to using the 50mm, then you will be comfortable with 85mm or 105mm.
 

Pikemann Urge

macrumors 6502
Jan 3, 2007
276
0
melbourne.au
I read a lot of reviews of people saying that there wasn't enough difference between 50mm f/1.4 and f/1.8 lenses.
They are right as far as light goes. But even on a DX sensor, the corner performance is noticeably worse on the 50/1.4 (unless we're talking about the new one released not too long ago). If you like a soft look - and for some portraits I love the optically 'poor' 50/1.4 - then use it. Otherwise the 50/1.8 is, as you already know, the superior lens.
 

FX120

macrumors 65816
May 18, 2007
1,173
235
For a concert setting, unless you have a D3 or D700, 2.8 is too slow.

Bull.

Concert shooting is all about knowing when to take a shot, and *NOT* to trust your cameras meter. Stage lighting is very very intense, but the action is quick and the scene is dynamic and that is what gets most people into trouble.

I regularly stop down to f/4 or smaller just to get the DOF I want @ ISO 1600.
 
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