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Reash

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Feb 21, 2024
6
0
My charger got damaged and i needed to replace it so i went to pc richard and got a helix pd 65w usb c charger for my ipad air 5th gen i wanted to make sure it was safe as someone told me it wasn't since the ipad air chargers are 20w after i bought and used it i don't think there should be a problem but just want to make sure.
 
Thanks i figured so but i am paranoid to the point its a problem to my mental wellbeing so when the idea was planted in my head i couldn't ignore it.
 
Thanks i figured so but i am paranoid to the point its a problem to my mental wellbeing so when the idea was planted in my head i couldn't ignore it.
Just relax and enjoy. Apple put lots of technology in your iPad and like the other poster said, it will only draw what it needs.
 
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There have been problems in the past with cheap USB chargers which failed catastrophically. I would only purchase one from a well known quality brand (Anker, Satechi, etc.). Quick search didn't show that this charger was UL certified.
 
My charger got damaged and i needed to replace it so i went to pc richard and got a helix pd 65w usb c charger for my ipad air 5th gen i wanted to make sure it was safe as someone told me it wasn't since the ipad air chargers are 20w after i bought and used it i don't think there should be a problem but just want to make sure.
You can't. Capacity is reduced, overheating and accelerated wear. In lithium-ion batteries, excessive current can cause internal damage and gas buildup, resulting in battery case swelling. In extreme cases, this can cause the battery to explode . If the battery is old and worn out, fast charging will kill it even faster.
 
The iPad will only draw what it needs. You could connect it to a 140w Mac charger and it’d be fine.
Extremely damaging advice. Similar advice, put aviation kerosene in your car instead of gasoline. It'll blow up sooner or later. The controller has a maximum power limit. Just think how long it will last if it is constantly working at its maximum capacity. Micro cracks and resistance growth will appear very quickly.
 
Extremely damaging advice. Similar advice, put aviation kerosene in your car instead of gasoline. It'll blow up sooner or later. The controller has a maximum power limit. Just think how long it will last if it is constantly working at its maximum capacity. Micro cracks and resistance growth will appear very quickly.
“Maximum capacity”? Plugging it into a 140W charger from any reputable brand is doing no damage whatsoever. They negotiate on a wattage and only like 25 watts go into an iPad. It’s in no way comparable to running a car on kerosene
 
Extremely damaging advice. Similar advice, put aviation kerosene in your car instead of gasoline. It'll blow up sooner or later. The controller has a maximum power limit. Just think how long it will last if it is constantly working at its maximum capacity. Micro cracks and resistance growth will appear very quickly.
Similar, but wrong, advice.

More like plugging your 5w (under 0.1a) charger into a 20a electrical circuit. We do that every day, without problems. Same principle.
 
Well, well, well. And the theorists have gathered, now I see where the legs grow from. Don't complain later. Keep charging with anything ))))The repair business will only prosper from such “expert masters” ))))
 
Well, well, well. And the theorists have gathered, now I see where the legs grow from. Don't complain later. Keep charging with anything ))))The repair business will only prosper from such “expert masters” ))))
And your opinion on chargers is based on what exactly? Power negotiation is literally a fact. Plug an iPhone into like, a 67 W adapter. Do you actually think all that power goes into said iPhone/charging controller when neither is rated for 67 W? No. Both controllers were designed to handle peak power and then some. Never mind that both voltage and current actually roll off way below peak towards the end of a charging session
 
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Plugging it into a 140W charger from any reputable brand is doing no damage whatsoever. They negotiate on a wattage and only like 25 watts go into an iPad.
This is correct.

If you download the free version of iMazing, you can actually see the negotiated rate. On iPhones, you can even see the power draw drop at 80% of full charge. For example, my new iPhone 16PM starts drawing 45 watts, and drops to 15 watts at 80%.
 
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