cMacPro 4,1 install 10.12 using 2011 MacMini

[Bonsai71]

Apologies if this has already been posted.

I was able to do a clean non-modified install of OSX Sierra using a Mid 2011 MacMini (Macmini5,2) as an install host, setup an admin user and remote access, then take the SATA SSD out of the Mini and put it straight into a cMacPro (2009) 4,1

I had a dead graphics card in the Mac Pro (the original one) I was able to install the matching Nvidia drivers, and put an old PC graphics card in - and it worked!

I know there are more complex instructions about patching later OSX Installs for cMP's (and flashing firmware), but ... I didn't seem to need them? What should I test for - Final Cut X boots up, I have not tried much else. WiFi does not work - I expected that, I'm not sure what I am going to do with it.

I did not need to disable SIP - which is handy, as I would have been doing it blindfold (non EFI gfx card).

Safari feels snappier. Your thoughts are welcome.

 

[yuzgen]

Flashing a firmware isn't complex at all. Your 4,1 becomes a 5,1, as the only difference is their firmware. You can also go back to the old firmware if you like, for whatever reason.

I think what you have done is complex.

 

[Bonsai71]

Flashing a firmware isn't complex at all. Your 4,1 becomes a 5,1, as the only difference is their firmware. You can also go back to the old firmware if you like, for whatever reason.

I think what you have done is complex.

Fair enough - it seemed the easiest without having a working display though. I'm surprised it worked, the MacMini and MacPro are quite different, and there is 2 years between them.

 

[tsialex]

Fair enough - it seemed the easiest without having a working display though. I'm surprised it worked, the MacMini and MacPro are quite different, and there is 2 years between them.

You're thinking like Windows installs. macOS install all drivers needed for all Macs that are supported by that macOS version, so you can install on a mini and boot on a Mac Pro, iMac, etc.

 

[bookemdano]

You can actually use this method with any supported Mac. A macOS install isn't really customized to hardware at all. So no matter what mac you use to install it, the resulting macOS partition is the same. That's why the method you used worked.

The only thing preventing Sierra and High Sierra (and now Mojave) from installing on the 4,1 is that the installer checks the model identifier and won't allow it to proceed on a 4,1. As you have seen, the OS actually runs just fine.

As already mentioned, the firmware update method is preferable since you don't have to jump through any hoops to keep running the newest releases. But you're correct in that you won't be able to do that without an EFI GPU (either buy a used stock card--GT 120 or 5770/5780 on ebay or buy a GTX 680 or 7950/7970 and flash the EFI firmware yourself.

 

[yuzgen]

You're thinking like Windows installs. macOS install all drivers needed for all Macs that are supported by that macOS version, so you can install on a mini and boot on a Mac Pro, iMac, etc.

Same thing applies to Windows too, as long as MBR/UEFI boot properly. IE start installing Windows on a PC. After first reboot, shutdown the computer, hook the disk to the Mac Pro. It will work. Even a fully setup disk will work on another computer, since Windows Vista or so. Install drivers and you're set. If it's W10, almost all drivers will be downloaded anyway.

 

[bookemdano]

Same thing applies to Windows too, as long as MBR/UEFI boot properly. IE start installing Windows on a PC. After first reboot, shutdown the computer, hook the disk to the Mac Pro. It will work. Even a fully setup disk will work on another computer, since Windows Vista or so. Install drivers and you're set. If it's W10, almost all drivers will be downloaded anyway.

That's not strictly true. On PCs with Vista or Win7 if your SATA ports were set to Basic mode in the BIOS during install, then Windows does not load the AHCI driver. If you move that drive over to a PC with AHCI (or if you subsequently switched to AHCI in the BIOS on the same machine) you'd get the classic "INACCESSIBLE BOOT DEVICE" BSOD. It's recoverable via a registry change, but it's a real pain in the ass.

It also happened the other way 'round. If you installed on a computer with AHCI and then moved it over to one that was set to basic. Might have also affected moving from an install on an IDE drive over to a computer with a SATA HDD. Can't remember.

That situation may very well be fixed with Win8 and 10. I haven't had to deal with a non-AHCI SATA controller in a while. But believe me that used to be a real issue when trying to boot Windows installs on other PCs.

 

[yuzgen]

True, but all the computers and mobos manufactured like after 2011 are set to AHCI mode by default anyways. If not, correcting it takes about 30 seconds.

That's not strictly true. On PCs with Vista or Win7 if your SATA ports were set to Basic mode in the BIOS during install, then Windows does not load the AHCI driver. If you move that drive over to a PC with AHCI (or if you subsequently switched to AHCI in the BIOS on the same machine) you'd get the classic "INACCESSIBLE BOOT DEVICE" BSOD. It's recoverable via a registry change, but it's a real pain in the ass.

That situation may very well be fixed with Win8 and 10. I haven't had to deal with a non-AHCI SATA controller in a while. But believe me that used to be a real issue when trying to boot Windows installs on other PCs.

 

[bookemdano]

True, but all the computers and mobos manufactured like after 2011 are set to AHCI mode by default anyways. If not, correcting it takes about 30 seconds.

I realize that, but your point was that Windows installs are all the same, and I was pointing out that they aren't. Unlike macOS, Windows installs (at least Vista and 7) are slightly different based on the hardware they were installed on, even ignoring UEFI/BIOS.

 

[yuzgen]

I realize that, but your point was that Windows installs are all the same, and I was pointing out that they aren't. Unlike macOS, Windows installs (at least Vista and 7) are slightly different based on the hardware they were installed on, even ignoring UEFI/BIOS.

UEFI/MBR matters. I already pointed out. Start installing on computer a, after first reboot, shutdown PC by long pressing the power button. Hook the disk to computer B. It's the cleanest method, since no driver is installed yet. But even after instaling all drivers, you can use that disk in computer B. 100% true knowledge. I'm doing it all the time, even between Macs and PCs.

 

[DearthnVader]

You can use Clover Legacy to do an install by setting the SMBios to another Mac that is supported by Sierra or High Serra, plus this gives you boot screens and the ability to use FileVault or the Recovery partition.

On my MP3,1 I had to set the SMBios to iMac14,2, but maybe you can set a 4,1 to a 5,1.

It really isn't that hard, the only thing you really lose is the ability to set the Startup Disc when booted in CSM mode.

The CSM is the Legacy Bios startup mode and loads the VBios from you graphics card, giving you boot screens. Plus the ability to boot Install Windows 7-10 in EFI mode with legacy Vbios graphics.

 

[bookemdano]

Let me say it again:

With macOS, ANY supported Mac can be used to install macOS onto another drive, and you can then take that drive over to any other supported Mac and it will work. That macOS partition is identical no matter what computer installed it.

With Windows (Vista and 7, I don't know about 8 and 10), the Windows installation is lightly customized to the hardware of the PC where it was installed. You already named one example of that--UEFI vs BIOS. I was simply providing one additional example of how it gets customized. It may work in 99% of cases since most computers are AHCI now, but that is beside the point.