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fendersrule

macrumors 6502
Original poster
Oct 9, 2008
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I'm still running Sierra. My Bootchamp works perfectly to my Windows 10 UEFI drive. My "restart into MacOS" works perfectly as well. SIP is disabled of course. Running a GTX 1070.

However....I'm still running Sierra. Is now a good time to go through the effort to upgrade to High Sierra or Mojave for a 5,1? Are all the kinks worked out? Anyone else happy with this setup?
 
lots of threads about this... basically get to High Sierra if you want Mojave.

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208898

Update to macOS High Sierra 10.13.6
First, use the Mac App Store to update your operating system to macOS High Sierra 10.13.6. Don't upgrade your Mac Pro (Mid 2010) or Mac Pro (Mid 2012) to macOS Mojave directly from macOS versions prior to 10.13.6.
 
1) How's the web driver for High Sierra or Mojave? Pretty good?

2) Will I lose Boot champ? Does booting back into MacOS from Windows 10 work as it should?

3) Can I still disable SIP?

4) Do I keep the existing file-system to minimize issues or upgrade to the new one?
 
NVIDIA Web Driver for High Sierra with GTX 1080 Founders Edition (non flashed) in 10.13.6 is great. I'm on the .108 driver that has been pulled. The .105 driver is the latest publicly available.

NVIDIA Web Driver for Mojave does not (yet) exist.

I'm on HFS+ with 10.13.6 and used Carbon Copy Cloner to change to HFS+ from APFS after an issue around .2 or .3 update.
 
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Hi guys,

I'm successfully in High Sierra.

When I boot into my Windows 10 drive, I get the "No bootable device - Insert boot disc and press any key" black screen.

SIP is disabled.

It is a working EFI installation of Windows 10. Never had an issue.

What's going on here?
 
did you use a script for HS with HFS+?
did you remove the Win10 drive from system during HS upgrade?
 
I did use the script for HFS+

Sadly, I didn't think to remove the Win10 drive before upgrading. I thought MacOS was a bit smarter than that to be honest.

My guess is that MacOS changed the boot record or whatever on the Windows 10 drive. Just an assumption. I can proceed to reinstall Windows and everything, but if there's a simple fix, I thought I'd ask.
 
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