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Tommydj10

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Apr 6, 2022
12
1
Has anyone ever tried to upgrade CPUs on a 2010-2012 5,1 Mac Pro using delidded CPUs?

Reasons could be either thermal performance, recycling a pair of CPUs coming from an older 4,1 Mac Pro (the dual cpu tray needed delidded CPUs), or just for science!

I tried this experiment, upgrading a 2010 5,1 dual CPU with a pair of X5680 that I carefully delidded with a specific tool for the job, a metal one not a cheap 3d printed one.

Put all back together, but when I tried to turn it on, both red CPU LEDs turn on and a couple of seconds after, it just switches off. Generally those LEDs mean temperature issues but I touched the CPUs they were cold, not even warm to the touch.

So I figured that the extra gap that created by the absence of the lid could be a factor, so I took it apart again to discover that the heat sink was barely touching the thermal paste on the die. So I put those lids back (with new thermal paste between die and lid, and between lid and heat sink). Put it back together and... No chime again... Symptoms are similar, both CPUs red temp LEDs on, fans spinning at min speed, but no auto shut off this time. It just stays on until I turn it off manually.

I have been told to double check the heat sink temp sensors are in place, and I checked and they seemed all right to me.

Have I really broken both CPUs when delidding them? Anyone has any idea what could be going on here?
 
I did this a while back.
I wrote a brief guide a while back here.
Was your process similar to what I did ?

That is, did you first test the CPU's before de-lidding ?

You have not said what tool you used. Did you take pictures of your parts before and after. It possible to damage the CPU's...especially the the surface mount caps on the CPU.
 
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He wants to use delidded cpus on a 5.1.

the problem would be that the socket clamp will not hold anywhere and the construction is too thin.

if you somehow mount the old lids on the delidded cpus and put thermal pads between the die and the polished lid it could work.
 
I did this a while back.
I wrote a brief guide a while back here.
Was your process similar to what I did ?

That is, did you first test the CPU's before de-lidding ?

You have not said what tool you used. Did you take pictures of your parts before and after. It possible to damage the CPU's...especially the the surface mount caps on the CPU.
That's crazy, I basically followed this guide without having seeing it, I even have the same delidding tool from aliexpress. I paid double though..

The only steps I didn't do, which I kinda regret now, is step 4: testing the CPUs before, I guess I just trusted that eBay seller with my life 😅. And also the cleaning with Liquid Metal part, I had no idea you could use it that way.

I tried to be really careful when delidding and took my time. All capacitors are untouched and I didn't scrape too hard (I hope) on the die. It just seems weird that I fu**d up both CPUs, I wanna believe there's another explanation, and something else is going on.

I'm not sure how to interpret those symptoms..
With delidded CPUs: no chime, both CPU red LEDs on, fans at min speed, auto shut off after 2-3 seconds
With the lids back: no chime, both CPU red LEDs on, fans at min speed, no auto shut off 🤷
 
You can test _one_ cpu by installing it in the backside socket.

fans go wild but the box should start.

delidded CPUs overheat in a 2010/2012 board. You will need thermal contact to the cooler and something to stuff between the cpu and the socket clamps as they have no mechanical pressure without the lid.

With the lid you will need at least pads between the die and the backside of the lid.

all in all a very delicate surgery
 
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You can test _one_ cpu by installing it in the backside socket.

fans go wild but the box should start.

delidded CPUs overheat in a 2010/2012 board. You will need thermal contact to the cooler and something to stuff between the cpu and the socket clamps as they have no mechanical pressure without the lid.

With the lid you will need at least pads between the die and the backside of the lid.

all in all a very delicate surgery
When I put the lids back I put new thermal paste between the die and the lid, and of course thermal paste between the lid and the heatsink. Using them delidded would be a secondary project at this point, since I cannot get it to boot even with the lids.

I didn't understand the 1 CPU thing. Is there a possibility to test a single CPU in the dual tray?

Also, any idea on how to interpret those symptoms I described?
 
That's crazy, I basically followed this guide without having seeing it, I even have the same delidding tool from aliexpress. I paid double though..

The only steps I didn't do, which I kinda regret now, is step 4: testing the CPUs before, I guess I just trusted that eBay seller with my life 😅. And also the cleaning with Liquid Metal part, I had no idea you could use it that way.

I tried to be really careful when delidding and took my time. All capacitors are untouched and I didn't scrape too hard (I hope) on the die. It just seems weird that I fu**d up both CPUs, I wanna believe there's another explanation, and something else is going on.

I'm not sure how to interpret those symptoms..
With delidded CPUs: no chime, both CPU red LEDs on, fans at min speed, auto shut off after 2-3 seconds
With the lids back: no chime, both CPU red LEDs on, fans at min speed, no auto shut off 🤷

Check the sockets. The pins in the sockets can be easily damaged. You'll need a good magnifier to check the pins. Or use the iPhone Magnifier camera App if you have one.

Yes it's possible to test just one CPU - CPU (A) on the back.

Test with original lidded CPUs.
 
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Check the sockets. The pins in the sockets can be easily damaged. You'll need a good magnifier to check the pins. Or use the iPhone Magnifier camera App if you have one.

Yes it's possible to test just one CPU - CPU (A) on the back.

Test with original lidded CPUs.
Oh that's cool I didn't know that!

What exactly should I look for when checking the socket? bent pins, and that's it? And is it fixable if I find something?
 
Oh that's cool I didn't know that!

What exactly should I look for when checking the socket? bent pins, and that's it? And is it fixable if I find something?
Yes bent pins.
Fixable ? Hmmm depends on the severity and how many. Would need a good pair of curved pointed tweezers and a magnifying glass.
 
I didn't go down the delid route as the die on the Ive Bridge 12 core is rather large and the solder is strong. Plus the centre heat sink and hold down bracket just dont have enough material to make a good connection as the die height is too low. I just machined down the lid and made sure it was parallel to the base of the CPU FR4. Results are rather spectacular, at full load (R23 Multicore test) CPU never goes above 60ºC.

It took over 200um to reach a good enough flatness of the IHS.

IMG_3507 Large.jpeg


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Screenshot 2023-03-22 at 13.39.28.png
 
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Nice healthy core average and R23 bench result.

Screen Shot 2023-03-22 at 1.45.45.png


Still not higher than the user who uploaded their result, but I suspect that was cover off, no background activities and not a 5k monitor attached.

Screen Shot 2023-03-20 at 1.17.51.png
 

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Made another R23 render test after a cold boot. Is this now the fastest multicore 6.1 in the running?

View attachment 2179470
Hey sorry to necro old thread but what thermal paste are you using in yours? I'm literally using Liquid Metal and I canNOT just beat the darn listing in Cinebench. I always like to try to beat the example listings of the same machines I have in Cinebench, and I've done it with all my other Macs, but not the 6,1! Any idea what thermal paste you use, and do you think that helps?
Thanks!
 
I am using Arctic MX-6 spread thinly.

I hope that helps. Machine is still working excellent, I love it!
 
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