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DLSR photo quality problems, when viewing on iOS devices
- Thread starter kapp2
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Raw vs. Jpeg shouldn't enter into it, your camera does 18 megapixels which is much higher than iPad (3 megapixels)/iPhone (2 megapixels or less) can display. Even the small picture setting should give you 4 megapixels. What are you using to put the photos on the device?
How do the photos look on a computer? Do your devices have a screen protector?
How do the photos look on a computer? Do your devices have a screen protector?
How are you saving the photos? Silly question but the camera might be set to only save low resolution jpegs.
You mention that the pictures don't display well on your iPad or your iPhone. How do they display on other devices as mentioned above? I.E., can you play them on your TV? Do they show correctly on any other, larger, display device? Your camera display doesn't count as a smaller display will generally always look a lot better than when the image is shown on a larger screen.
If they don't display well anywhere I'd check your camera settings as mentioned above.
Looking at the cameras manual I see the options below:
it looks as the minimum setting that would display correctly would be S1. But in general it's always best to shoot raw.
If they don't display well anywhere I'd check your camera settings as mentioned above.
Looking at the cameras manual I see the options below:
it looks as the minimum setting that would display correctly would be S1. But in general it's always best to shoot raw.
I use the built in Wi-FI, saving to ipad/iphone via Canon camera connect app.
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Arrg, so im better off with setting S1 for ipad, and S2 for iphone, or ?
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i dont use screen protector. on my pc they dont look great, its an pc with low resolution screen i use. i use canon camera connect app to transfer images from camera to iPad/iPhone. what is better to transfer photos with ?
It could be an issue with your photo rather than the iOS device. To slow a shutter speed or to high an ISO setting can cause picture image quality.
Post a picture in this thread with the settings you used, and let's see if we can help you out.
Shooting different qualities for different devices isn't a great strategy, depending upon how many pictures you take. Managing hundreds, if not thousands or tens of thousands, of pictures which are actually duplicates is a nightmare. And if you create a picture just for the iPhone, what happens when they change the screen size, like going from the iPhone 5 to the 6s+? Will you want to show your photos to others on your TV? If so maybe now you can get by with 1080p, but what are your pictures going to look like on a 4K or 8K TV? Think of how awful old VHS tapes look now.
So I would take the pictures in the maximum resolution that you can for long term compatibility. Almost all my shots are raw, ~20-30 MB in size and ~5000 x ~4000 in resolution and I have had no problems in them replicating to my 6s+. iPad Pro, or Apple TV 4. Apple seems to do the correct conversions so you don't have to maintain multiple size copies.
So the minimum setting would be I think JPEG S1. Is there any reason you're not shooting (L) Large or (R) Raw? Then you never would have to say "Damn. This crop would have worked if I hadn't shot it in S1" or "I could have adjusted the colors on this shot if I hadn't shot in JPEG".
There are issues, however, with transferring files from cameras via WiFi to the manufacturer's camera app. I take a lot of travel pictures where at the end of the day it's nice to show everyone the shots of the day. Panasonic's app the last I tried it wouldn't transfer over raw shots, but Sony's app did. I don't travel with my Canon DSLRs anymore due to their weight so I haven't used their wifi app in some years.
So I would take the pictures in the maximum resolution that you can for long term compatibility. Almost all my shots are raw, ~20-30 MB in size and ~5000 x ~4000 in resolution and I have had no problems in them replicating to my 6s+. iPad Pro, or Apple TV 4. Apple seems to do the correct conversions so you don't have to maintain multiple size copies.
So the minimum setting would be I think JPEG S1. Is there any reason you're not shooting (L) Large or (R) Raw? Then you never would have to say "Damn. This crop would have worked if I hadn't shot it in S1" or "I could have adjusted the colors on this shot if I hadn't shot in JPEG".
There are issues, however, with transferring files from cameras via WiFi to the manufacturer's camera app. I take a lot of travel pictures where at the end of the day it's nice to show everyone the shots of the day. Panasonic's app the last I tried it wouldn't transfer over raw shots, but Sony's app did. I don't travel with my Canon DSLRs anymore due to their weight so I haven't used their wifi app in some years.
What did you focus on?
What were you trying to achieve? (all the plant in focus? some of it?)
Novel background...
I tried get the hole plant in focus. wierd the camera just wont focus on it propper :/
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You are tottaly right that i should shoot with Raw or L setting
[doublepost=1466933611][/doublepost]Btw, anyone of you know which aspect ratio is best to use on iphone/ipad when viewing photos ?
Is it not the fact that the direct WiFi transfer from camera to I pad or other device automatically down scales it "for Web use"...
I know my Sony does that. When you transfer to a mobile device it decides you are doing it for social media and reduces the resolution.
I downloaded the WiFi instruction guide for the 1300d and on page 35 it talks about setting resize options during transfer to a smartphone.
Accessed the manual from here
http://digitalphotographylive.com/canon-eos-rebel-t6-eos-1300d-instruction-or-users-manual-download/
WiFi guide not user manual. By the look of it that may be your issue.
Hope this helps.
Ken.
I know my Sony does that. When you transfer to a mobile device it decides you are doing it for social media and reduces the resolution.
I downloaded the WiFi instruction guide for the 1300d and on page 35 it talks about setting resize options during transfer to a smartphone.
Accessed the manual from here
http://digitalphotographylive.com/canon-eos-rebel-t6-eos-1300d-instruction-or-users-manual-download/
WiFi guide not user manual. By the look of it that may be your issue.
Hope this helps.
Ken.
Ok you wanted the whole plant in focus, did you use a single focus point and if so where did you let it focus? You have a subject that has a lot of depth so I would have focused manually but if you used AF you need to choose the focus point carefully.
Secondly f9 at that subject range may not have captured the whole depth of the plant image in focus as it is. Use a Depth of Field calculator to check.
You refer to a zoom lens, which one, not all lenses, especially zooms, are particularly sharp in the best scenario.
Lastly 1/25 exposes you to camera shake at that focal length, use a tripod or faster shutter to rule it out.
Secondly f9 at that subject range may not have captured the whole depth of the plant image in focus as it is. Use a Depth of Field calculator to check.
You refer to a zoom lens, which one, not all lenses, especially zooms, are particularly sharp in the best scenario.
Lastly 1/25 exposes you to camera shake at that focal length, use a tripod or faster shutter to rule it out.
I focused in the middle of the plant. i used the middle point with AF, not dual focus point. my lens is 18-55mm.
[doublepost=1466961099][/doublepost]Simonsi. What about this ? switched to manual focus.
F aperture 3.5
ISO 125
Shutter 1/25
Lens setting 19mm
Attachments
I think the IQ is okay tbh. I'd look at improving your lighting and composition. As Ken said above, wifi transfer may well be causing an issue.
I always shoot RAW and transfer to my computer using the SD card I shot with.
Will try to improve hehe
and about wifi transfer, yes agree, putting the photos on pc first is better.Its better but randomly so (you've chosen a MUCH shallower depth of field with that aperture). I'd put the OOF in the first image down to camera shake - which will vary from image to image. I'll say it again, use a tripod or UP the shutter speed to rule it out. AF should have focussed somewhere in the first image but I can't see where, hence camera shake.
OP, did you or the camera pick those settings? I think ISO and shutter speed need to come up for that shot. Or, as others suggested, use a tripod.
I know some say shoot RAW. I normally use RAW + JPEG since I only post process a small percentage of my photos. With RAW, you really have to or they look flat.
I know some say shoot RAW. I normally use RAW + JPEG since I only post process a small percentage of my photos. With RAW, you really have to or they look flat.
Dismiss the shooting raw suggestion. Has nothing to do with your issue and the resolution is the same as JPEG.
I'd suggest your method of ingest is the issue. The camera connect apps I've seen default to a small size for wifi transfers. Go into your app and check the settings. If there are no size settings, then find out what resolution it transfers at. In your iPad, what are the pixels of the imported pics and what did you shoot at? If different, the problem is your camera connect app.