Editing negatives "scanned" by DSLR

[waloshin]

I am using a Fujifilm X1M with a adapted Nikkor 55mm f3.5 macro with a 21mm extension tube.

I am using a Logan 8x10 5000 Kelvin light box.

As of the last few days my negatives have a very orange cast in the middle. This has never happened before.

Here is a link to the raw image from the camera as well a edited negative in .psd file format.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw7r75MN3Zj6X2F6Rjc1T3B6Rk0

 

[casperes1996]

That is weird indeed... If anyone knows, I'm curious too

 

[waloshin]

I have even tried Lab Mode which helps a bit, but the orange cast is still there.

 

[waloshin]

Maybe my problem is I am placing my negatives on the Lightbox without a barrier between the Lightbox and the negative. I then flatten the negative with a piece of anti-glare framing glass.

 

[kenoh]

It isnt a heat issue is it? I dont know the lightbox, does it happen if you place the negative elsewhere on the lightbox? is it on the negative itself ?

 

[Laird Knox]

I have even tried Lab Mode which helps a bit, but the orange cast is still there.

That looks like a damaged negative to me. (I can't see the original as I can't connect to Google Drive from work.) It looks like the edges of the color shift run parallel to the image border. How were the negatives stored?

 

[waloshin]

They were stored in their plastic sleeves in a box.

 

[kenoh]

Have you tried redoing a negative again that was OK previously?

 

[waloshin]

Have you tried redoing a negative again that was OK previously?

I have with the same result. Maybe the anti glare framing glass is causing an odd issue.

 

[kenoh]

A colour cast maybe but why " all of a sudden"

 

[waloshin]

I have figured out the issue. It seems to be with my light source. With my Logan Electric 8 x 10" Slim-Edge Light Pad (#A-5A) it has two 5400K color-corrected fluorescent lights.

When I used my Sony Xperia Z5 as a Lightbox with a lightbox app I was able to get a image without the brown in the middle. The white balance with my phone was 3750K.

Captured using my phone's display as a light box at 3750K.

If you do not edit this text it will be automatically removed.

 

[kenoh]

I have figured out the issue. It seems to be with my light source. With my Logan Electric 8 x 10" Slim-Edge Light Pad (#A-5A) it has two 5400K color-corrected fluorescent lights.

When I used my Sony Xperia Z5 as a Lightbox with a lightbox app I was able to get a image without the brown in the middle. The white balance with my phone was 3750K.

Captured using my phone's display as a light box at 3750K.

If you do not edit this text it will be automatically removed.

Cool. Now you know it is the lightbox that is the issue, now lets move on to that bike! what on earth s the score with the forks setup on that bad boy!?!?!

 

[sarge]

The illumination from an LCD is going to be much more even compared with a lightbox with two tubes (the Logan doesn't have an LCD does it?). I have some medium format to scan and I was talked out of getting a flatbed scanner in favor of using digital MF and a strobe/diffuser to create the digital file. Have yet to try that....

 

[waloshin]

Thanks for the replies. I have not tried a strobe diffusor yet, but thank you for that.
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Cool. Now you know it is the lightbox that is the issue, now lets move on to that bike! what on earth s the score with the forks setup on that bad boy!?!?!

The forks are very different for sure. And it is a bit odd that there is a bmx looking wheel upfront as well.

 

[chrfr]

I have figured out the issue. It seems to be with my light source. With my Logan Electric 8 x 10" Slim-Edge Light Pad (#A-5A) it has two 5400K color-corrected fluorescent lights.

What shutter speed were you using when you shot with the Logan?

 

[waloshin]

My shutter speed was 1/250 (0.4) a second with an iso of 200.

 

[chrfr]

My shutter speed was 1/250 (0.4) a second with an iso of 200.

You might have better results with a shutter speed longer than 1/60. Fluorescent tubes have a flicker to them which can lead to uneven lighting.
https://usefulphototips.com/2012/07/18/photography-under-florescent/

I have done copy work with fluorescent lighting before but it was with very expensive high frequency lighting. Odds are that the light source you're using isn't going to work well.

 

[dwig]

Shutter speed could possibly be an issue. In general, with fluorescent lighting you should never use a shutter speed higher than the AC frequency powering the tubes. With convention fluorescents that means 1/50-1/60th of a second. With "compact fluorescents" and with conventional tube using some electronic ballasts the frequency is higher than the AC supply, often allow shutter speeds over 1/500th.

IMHO, flare seems a more likely culprit, at least give the limited information provided by the OP. There is a massive difference between the size of the two light sources the OP has used. The large light box (8x10") will spill a massive amount of light unless the extra area is masked off. The small phone will not pose as great a problem.

 

[waloshin]

I did not cover the extra light emitting. I will maybe cut out some back construction paper and try to keep the light from glaring everywhere.

 

[dwig]

I did not cover the extra light emitting. I will maybe cut out some back construction paper and try to keep the light from glaring everywhere.

Also, if you aren't using a completely enclosed "slide duplicator", you need to turn off all other lights in the room. Any light striking the lens side of the negative can reflect back into the lens creating problems/flaws.

 

[ChrisA]

...
As of the last few days my negatives have a very orange cast in the middle....

The orange is from the negative "mask". This is the orange tint that al negatives have

I bet it has to do with a reflective off the glass. It is best if there is no glass near the negative. Flatten it by clamping the negative in a glassless frame.

Of course I'm guessing but it is based on the shade of orange being the same as the orange mask color