few basics to learn (D750), please?

[Freida]

Hello guys, would you mind helping me out with these "little" things so I can improve?

1) Is there a way to setup the display on D750 in a way that its more accurate to reality?
ie. 2 days ago I was shooting some portrait pics and I tweaked my flash based on how it looks on the camera's display (which I know isn't the ideal) and I knew it wouldn't be the same but I wasn't expecting it to be so off. Basically when I took the pictures to Photos app so I can then edit them in ON1 RAW they were so much darker. They were nice and clear on the camera but kinda super dark on the computer.
Is there a way to tweak it so its similar-ish? I shoot RAW

2) When I was doing the portraiture, I had all the lights off (it wasn't pitch black though as outside still had some light) and only the flash which resulted in me having problem with focus. So, I turned on dim light from the kitchen so it would illuminate a bit of the model's face. It worked fine but there were occassions when the camera seemed to focus correctly but then when I press the shutter it didn't take the picture. All that was in AF-S S. I solved the problem with AF-C S (see? I'm learning now) and that worked super good. Pretty much all the pictures were super sharp and I think I only got 2-3 picture slightly blurred (out of 180) so that method was fine.
Regardless, if the camera had focus in the AF-S S, as I got the red light confirmation, then why couldn't I press the shutter? Also, sometimes after I gather focus in AF-S S and get confirmation the lens/camera is still doing sharp little noises as if it was trying to focus again and doing tiny tweaks to the focus that it gathered - is that normal?

3) When shooting for the Rembrandt style lighting, I went for "correct" look in the camera so not much tweaks needed later but it was way darker in the computer. Would you say that for these type of photography is better to set the flash a little higher so its not that dark and I can then tweak the rest in the computer?
I guess maybe I should you histogram for that, right? - new thing I learned yesterday

 

[mollyc]

I try not to rely too much on the lcd back for much, although it does work for images that are completely over/underexposed. Scroll through the back to find the preview that uses the histogram and then work from that, rather than the actual image preview. I don't bother setting up preview profiles since I shoot in raw and rather just have presets in LR that I use for import to get my images to a good starting point.

I can't help you with point 2 as I use BBF and have had my cameras for too long to remember how I've set them up. When I get a new camera I go through all the custom settings and set the new camera up like the old one. But my "newest" camera is 4.5 years old so I have no idea what settings I've put it to, other than BBF.

 

[TheDrift-]

I try not to rely too much on the lcd back for much, although it does work for images that are completely over/underexposed. Scroll through the back to find the preview that uses the histogram and then work from that, rather than the actual image preview. I don't bother setting up preview profiles since I shoot in raw and rather just have presets in LR that I use for import to get my images to a good starting point.

I can't help you with point 2 as I use BBF and have had my cameras for too long to remember how I've set them up. When I get a new camera I go through all the custom settings and set the new camera up like the old one. But my "newest" camera is 4.5 years old so I have no idea what settings I've put it to, other than BBF.

+1 Pretty much bang on imo, use the histogram and back button focus

 

[Freida]

Why is BBF so good? I still don't get the advantage. Instead of pressing half way shutter and then press it for taking the picture, you are pressing another button to get focus and then still pressing the shutter to take the picture so why is BBF so good? I'm still failing here

 

[v0lume4]

Why is BBF so good? I still don't get the advantage. Instead of pressing half way shutter and then press it for taking the picture, you are pressing another button to get focus and then still pressing the shutter to take the picture so why is BBF so good? I'm still failing here

Also curious for answer.

 

[mollyc]

Because using a separate button locks and holds your focus. Then the shutter button only controls your actual shutter opening. You can shoot a frame completely unfocused if you choose and the shutter button won't balk. One button for only focus and one button for only shutter control. It makes them independent of each other, thus giving you more control over both.

 

[v0lume4]

Because using a separate button locks and holds your focus. Then the shutter button only controls your actual shutter opening. You can shoot a frame completely unfocused if you choose and the shutter button won't balk. One button for only focus and one button for only shutter control. It makes them independent of each other, thus giving you more control over both.

Hmm! Thanks Molly!

So if you lock your focus and it's good, you don't have to worry about it changing while you shoot (since it is on the same button as the shutter), especially if what you're shooting is very time sensitive and auto focus starts to freak out. Makes sense.

Nice!

 

[Apple fanboy]

Hello guys, would you mind helping me out with these "little" things so I can improve?

1) Is there a way to setup the display on D750 in a way that its more accurate to reality?
ie. 2 days ago I was shooting some portrait pics and I tweaked my flash based on how it looks on the camera's display (which I know isn't the ideal) and I knew it wouldn't be the same but I wasn't expecting it to be so off. Basically when I took the pictures to Photos app so I can then edit them in ON1 RAW they were so much darker. They were nice and clear on the camera but kinda super dark on the computer.
Is there a way to tweak it so its similar-ish? I shoot RAW

2) When I was doing the portraiture, I had all the lights off (it wasn't pitch black though as outside still had some light) and only the flash which resulted in me having problem with focus. So, I turned on dim light from the kitchen so it would illuminate a bit of the model's face. It worked fine but there were occassions when the camera seemed to focus correctly but then when I press the shutter it didn't take the picture. All that was in AF-S S. I solved the problem with AF-C S (see? I'm learning now) and that worked super good. Pretty much all the pictures were super sharp and I think I only got 2-3 picture slightly blurred (out of 180) so that method was fine.
Regardless, if the camera had focus in the AF-S S, as I got the red light confirmation, then why couldn't I press the shutter? Also, sometimes after I gather focus in AF-S S and get confirmation the lens/camera is still doing sharp little noises as if it was trying to focus again and doing tiny tweaks to the focus that it gathered - is that normal?

3) When shooting for the Rembrandt style lighting, I went for "correct" look in the camera so not much tweaks needed later but it was way darker in the computer. Would you say that for these type of photography is better to set the flash a little higher so its not that dark and I can then tweak the rest in the computer?
I guess maybe I should you histogram for that, right? - new thing I learned yesterday

Even though you are shooting RAW the camera still produces a J-Peg preview which is what you see on the LCD.
When you say it's dark on your computer do you calibrate your screen? Otherwise who knows if it's correct!
Also when viewing images on the LCD screen turn the RGB highlights on. It will blink where you have over exposed. Quickest way to get there is up or down on the control pad when in playback mode.

 

[Freida]

Even though you are shooting RAW the camera still produces a J-Peg preview which is what you see on the LCD.
When you say it's dark on your computer do you calibrate your screen? Otherwise who knows if it's correct!
Also when viewing images on the LCD screen turn the RGB highlights on. It will blink where you have over exposed. Quickest way to get there is up or down on the control pad when in playback mode.

Ok, that might be it. If I still see JPG then I guess thats it. Also, what colour space is better or what is likely difference for me? I think I'm on sRGB but there is also Adobe RGB (I don't use Adobe products so thats why I have it on sRGB).
Is that better? Does it show where is underexposed too? I think I'll try that as that might help a lot. I will also pay more attention to histogram now that I understand how it works.

 

[Apple fanboy]

Ok, that might be it. If I still see JPG then I guess thats it. Also, what colour space is better or what is likely difference for me? I think I'm on sRGB but there is also Adobe RGB (I don't use Adobe products so thats why I have it on sRGB).
Is that better? Does it show where is underexposed too? I think I'll try that as that might help a lot. I will also pay more attention to histogram now that I understand how it works.

sRGB is about 75% of Adobe colour space. Nothing to do with Adobe products. Just different colour spaces used in the industry.
I'd recomend Adobe RGB.

 

[mollyc]

I prefer to work in a larger color space (I use ProPhoto out of Lightroom), BUT, many web browsers are not color managed (or if they can be, the average user doesn't know anything about it) so most photos will need to be converted to sRGB for web viewing. Also, many print companies prefer sRGB for print files. So working in aRGB or ProPhoto is totally doable, but you have to know where your end product is going to be and convert accordingly.

No, the camera back won't show where you are clipped with blinkies, but Lightroom will, and of course reading the histogram on the camera back will help with that too.

 

[whiteonline]

There are a few things to keep in mind.
As Apple fanboy commented, you're seeing the in-camera processed jpeg on the back LCD. Raw files will always be 'flatter' straight out of camera. It is your job to process (develop) to taste.
Keep in mind, if you have Active D Lighting enabled, the camera will under expose the raw file. Some software like Lightroom will automatically compensate for ADL.

If you are going to use the histogram, make sure you have the most neutral jpeg settings enabled. The histogram, again, is measuring the processed jpeg. Trust your meter!

Happy shooting.

 

[Moakesy]

I think your other questions have been answered, but regarding Question 2 of your post, were you shooting using a tripod our hand held?

If hand held and shooting AF-S, then you would have focused, then moved a fraction and lost focus, and depending on your camera settings, it wouldn't have allowed you to take the shot. This is because the camera stops you shooting out of focus.

The good news is you can change the settings so the camera allows you to shoot even when the camera thinks you are out of focus. This isn't as mad as it sounds, as there are times the camera gets it wrong, so you make the decision and not the camera.

For AF-S mode, select Menu / Custom / a1 - AF-C Priority selection
For AF-C mode, select Menu / Custom / a2 - AF-S Priority selection

You can then select either 'Release' which allows you to take a photo whenever you press the shutter release button
or..'Focus' which will only open the shutter when the camera thinks it has locked focus

The default is Focus, which I hate because I know if I'm pressing the shutter then I want it to take a photo. Whilst this setting may have been useful when using film cameras, these days if you shoot a blurry shot then you just delete it.

See page 326 & 327 of the manual for more details.

 

[Freida]

I think your other questions have been answered, but regarding Question 2 of your post, were you shooting using a tripod our hand held?

If hand held and shooting AF-S, then you would have focused, then moved a fraction and lost focus, and depending on your camera settings, it wouldn't have allowed you to take the shot. This is because the camera stops you shooting out of focus.

The good news is you can change the settings so the camera allows you to shoot even when the camera thinks you are out of focus. This isn't as mad as it sounds, as there are times the camera gets it wrong, so you make the decision and not the camera.

For AF-S mode, select Menu / Custom / a1 - AF-C Priority selection
For AF-C mode, select Menu / Custom / a2 - AF-S Priority selection

You can then select either 'Release' which allows you to take a photo whenever you press the shutter release button
or..'Focus' which will only open the shutter when the camera thinks it has locked focus

The default is Focus, which I hate because I know if I'm pressing the shutter then I want it to take a photo. Whilst this setting may have been useful when using film cameras, these days if you shoot a blurry shot then you just delete it.

See page 326 & 327 of the manual for more details.

Maybe that could be the problem and would explain why after focus the camera would be doing a little noise that felt like its regather focus (i think i was doing focus&recompose technique) so maybe that was it. Thank you, I will see if it happens again and then I will adjust accordingly. Thank you and others too, you guys rock

 

[mofunk]

Another vote for using the histogram. I was so stoked when I got the shot and viewed on the camera. When I got home and uploaded to LR I was disappointed. So I tried to revert back to using the histogram. Basically try to stay out of the dark side. Since you are shooting RAW you can adjust. I shot a wedding last month and had to rely on the histogram more because I didn't want to over exposed my images. If they were shot a little too dark that was fine.

 

[OzBok]

I found before I started using back button focus sometimes the half press would attempt to refocus before full press of the shutter. Like I inadvertently lifted and hit the trigger point to refocus again. Since I got used to back button, focus has been consistent barring user error of course.

Once you get used to it, you'll never look back.