First of all, thanks Molly for sharing this! It was a fascinating read.
As for the developing, here's my answer:
First of all, remember that color film really is B&W film with some extra "stuff" sprinkled in. That extra stuff is the color couplers, which(in everything but Kodachrome) are attached to the silver halide crystals in the emulsion and sort of are "along for the ride." When color film is developed, it essentially progresses as B&W film until all of the silver is removed, leaving behind the dye clouds that the color couplers formed when the silver grains formed during development
As a side note, Kodachrome does not integrate color couplers-they are added during processing. Even though I think there's been some success recreating the Kodachrome process, it's also at the mercy of sourcing the correct dyes, one of which I remember being not particularly easy to find and expensive when I did find it. "Not easy to find" is coming from a chemist who has access to the catalogs and catalog prices(the latter of which often aren't available unless you're logged in with a verified account) of most of the chemical companies out there
1. Developer-AFAIK the standard Kodak developer is not that different from something like D76, although I don't know the exact chemistry of it. As a refresher, developers are reducing agents that take exposed silver halide crystals and reduce them to metallic silver, which forms as grains we can see. There are a handful of common developers out there. Metol and hydroquinone are the standard combo for D76, HC110, Dektol(D23) and some others. Phenidone is another common one-it shows up in Rodinol and I'm sure others. The exact behavior can be tweaked not just by the developing agent but also of course by concentration, pH(most developers function in alkaline solutions, but just how alkaline can make a difference), and sometimes the addition of other substances like sodium sulfite(which acts as a grain "solvent.")
2. The film is fixed as usual, which removes any undeveloped silver halides. At the end of this step, the film will be a B&W negative. There's not a ton to say here. There are basically two fixers-the classic is sodium thiosulfate, aka "Hypo", and the more modern one is based on ammonium thiosulfate("rapid fixer.") Friends don't let friends use hypo
It's cheap but that's about all it has going for it. Both work by forming soluble coordination complexes with the silver+ ion in the silver halides. ammonium thiosulfate just does it faster, better, and is much easier to wash outn of the film.
3. The film is "bleached", a process which removes any silver metal. Bleach in this context is an oxidizing agent that converts metallic silver into a soluble silver salt. I haven't studied bleach chemistry in a lot of detail, but one formula I'm familiar with uses potassium permanganate.
BTW, some C-41 kits combine the bleach and fix into a single solution called, unsurprisingly, "Blix." It works, but is not best for archival stability. The old Tetenal press kits used it, primarily so that you had fewer solutions to handle and could do it faster when you were developing in your hotel room bathroom. The Cinestill kits use it now.
In any case, the result at the end of step 2 above SHOULD be readily viewable as a B&W negative, and should also be lightfast. Most of my at home processing has been E-6, but I seem to recall that E6 was also lightfast once you'd done the initial fix step(E-6 is developed, fixed, bleached, re-exposed, developed again, and then bleached again, although some of these steps are combined-I think bleach can easily go together with chemical fogging, and budget kits use Blix+chemical fogging as the second step).
Even though you'll have a working B&W negative, though, albeit probably a very low constrast one if you've developed as if the final result will be color, the color couplers will still be there. That means that you still bleach it after you've viewed the B&W negative and end up with a color image. It's probably not a terrible strategy for film where the results are uncertain. It's always possible that the couplers have done crazy things, and you may end up with wacky colors or no image at all after bleaching. Stopping to scan the B&W negative at least leaves you with some record of the image.