Hardware Test 2010 iMac

[Loyola]

Is it worth the effort to try to get the hardware test to work on my 2010 iMac? I suspect that the hard drive might be failing because of the long boot time, constant beach ball and really slow response time. I tried to do diagnostics by holding the D key when the computer restarted but I got an error message. It appears the computer cannot use internet recovery. After looking online I found some mixed information. One item said that after an EFI update it should work. Then I tried to use application install disk that came with the computer but that didn't work. When I restarted holding the D key I ended up in internet recovery. I cannot figure out how to get the computer to read the disk and not go to internet recovery.

This isn't my main computer so I am not all that concerned. I am just more interested in cause of the slowness that makes the computer unusable. It is old and things begin to fail.

 

[Juicy Box]

I can’t answer your question, but in my experience, Apple’s HW diagnostic test is not very good.

Do you have a USB drive sitting around somewhere?

Just try booting externally and see if that improves things. It doesn’t need to be an SSD, just any external drive to test it.

If it runs better, then maybe look into better solutions.

You could probably find a cheap FW800 enclosure, just get yourself a cheap SATA SSD, And I bet even on FireWire it will be a night and day difference compared to your internal HDD.

If you find out it is the drive, replacing the internal HDD isn’t hard on your model.

Is you iMac a 27”?

 

[Loyola]

I can’t answer your question, but in my experience, Apple’s HW diagnostic test is not very good.

Do you have a USB drive sitting around somewhere?

Just try booting externally and see if that improves things. It doesn’t need to be an SSD, just any external drive to test it.

If it runs better, then maybe look into better solutions.

You could probably find a cheap FW800 enclosure, just get yourself a cheap SATA SSD, And I bet even on FireWire it will be a night and day difference compared to your internal HDD.

If you find out it is the drive, replacing the internal HDD isn’t hard on your model.

Is you iMac a 27”?

It is a 21.5" and has served me well over the past 12 years.

I have the entire hard drive backed up on an external drive. Can I boot from that?

A year or so ago I looked into having the hard drive replaced and it was really expensive (1TB HDD $77 & $150 for labor plus tax or 500GB SSD $119, mounting bracket $22 & $150 labor plus tax). Based on the age of the computer, cost and lack of skill I decided not to do it. I opted for a really great deal on Amazon for a new base level Mini ($593 including tax).

My partner says he can replace the hard drive if needed. He has that kind of skill that I don't. OWC has SSD and kit for $60 to $80 depending on what size hard drive I want. If we decide to replace i would need to figure out how to get the computer up and running. I wouldn't transfer the entire hard drive since it would be for his use. I would just transfer MS Office and a few other things.

 

[Nguyen Duc Hieu]

My partner says he can replace the hard drive if needed. He has that kind of skill that I don't. OWC has SSD and kit for $60 to $80 depending on what size hard drive I want. If we decide to replace i would need to figure out how to get the computer up and running. I wouldn't transfer the entire hard drive since it would be for his use. I would just transfer MS Office and a few other things.

Just get a USB 3.0 enclosure for 2.5" drive and a small 2.5" SSD. You can install High Sierra freshly onto the drive and boot from it. The speed is not very fast, but it's still faster than the dying internal HDD.

 

[Juicy Box]

What OS are you using? If you end up putting a solid-state drive in your iMac, I would update the existing internal drive’s OS to High Sierra. That is, if the internal drive can take it.



As for SSD vs HDD, I would not put an HDD back into your iMac. It would run so much better with a solid-state drive, even with it running externally on the slow USB. Like I said earlier, if you got a FW800 enclosure and put a solid-state drive in it, this would be a pretty decent alternative to doing the internal swap.

If your partner is able to swap the drives, thinking do so cheaply, that might be the way to go. The iFixit guide is extremely helpful, especially for your first time.

But, if you’re considering a new Mac, 12 years is a decent run on any computer. Maybe it is time for a new Mac.

If you do decide to go with the swap, you can do so pretty cheaply by buying the parts individually compared to getting a kit. Or, getting a partial kit, something that includes the tools and temperature sensor cable, then get the solid-state drive and bracket separate.

If your partner already has simple computer tools and some suction cups for the glass, you really just need a drive, external sensor, and a bracket if you choose to use one. Some people don’t even bother using a bracket if they’re using a solid-state drive.

The swap is not hard at all, of course hard and easy are relative terms. The first time I did it I might’ve taken me an hour and a half, on a similar model. Now, I’m able to swap the drive and maybe 5 to 10 minutes, tops.

I opted for a really great deal on Amazon for a new base level Mini ($593 including tax).

There are rumors about a new Mac Mini coming out, but they are just rumors, and there’s a good chance that Apple will continue selling the M1 Mac mini at the current price, and the new Mac mini might be listed at a higher price.

If you need something right away, the M1 Mac Mini would be a good way to go. The M1 would be a huge upgrade to your 12 year old iMac.

Remember that you will need a monitor.

I have the entire hard drive backed up on an external drive. Can I boot from that?

It totally depends on if it is a bootable back up. Was it made with a software like carbon copy cloner?

Or is this like a Time Machine backup? If it’s time machine it will not be able to boot, but you can restore from time machine. This means you can install a fresh update on a new drive, and then use your time machine back up to migrate all the data to the fresh install.

 

[EugW]

I put an SSD in my 2010 27" iMac. It runs really well now. It's a finicky process though, and you need to get a few extra parts besides the SSD, including a 2.5" to 3.5" drive bracket, and an optical drive temperature sensor (which is attached to the SSD to replace the HD's built-in temperature sensor). That was for the 27" though. I'm not familiar with the process for the 21.5".

There are rumors about a new Mac Mini coming out, but they are just rumors, and there’s a good chance that Apple will continue selling the M1 Mac mini at the current price, and the new Mac mini might be listed at a higher price.

If you need something right away, the M1 Mac Mini would be a good way to go. The M1 would be a huge upgrade to your 12 year old iMac.

Remember that you will need a monitor.

This time I believe the rumours. M2 pretty soon.

I don't think the M2 Mac mini will have a significant increase in price in the US, but even if it does, one could always get the M1 at that time. Lots of them on the refurb store too.

 

[Loyola]

What OS are you using? If you end up putting a solid-state drive in your iMac, I would update the existing internal drive’s OS to High Sierra. That is, if the internal drive can take it.



As for SSD vs HDD, I would not put an HDD back into your iMac. It would run so much better with a solid-state drive, even with it running externally on the slow USB. Like I said earlier, if you got a FW800 enclosure and put a solid-state drive in it, this would be a pretty decent alternative to doing the internal swap.

If your partner is able to swap the drives, thinking do so cheaply, that might be the way to go. The iFixit guide is extremely helpful, especially for your first time.

But, if you’re considering a new Mac, 12 years is a decent run on any computer. Maybe it is time for a new Mac.

If you do decide to go with the swap, you can do so pretty cheaply by buying the parts individually compared to getting a kit. Or, getting a partial kit, something that includes the tools and temperature sensor cable, then get the solid-state drive and bracket separate.

If your partner already has simple computer tools and some suction cups for the glass, you really just need a drive, external sensor, and a bracket if you choose to use one. Some people don’t even bother using a bracket if they’re using a solid-state drive.

The swap is not hard at all, of course hard and easy are relative terms. The first time I did it I might’ve taken me an hour and a half, on a similar model. Now, I’m able to swap the drive and maybe 5 to 10 minutes, tops.


There are rumors about a new Mac Mini coming out, but they are just rumors, and there’s a good chance that Apple will continue selling the M1 Mac mini at the current price, and the new Mac mini might be listed at a higher price.

If you need something right away, the M1 Mac Mini would be a good way to go. The M1 would be a huge upgrade to your 12 year old iMac.

Remember that you will need a monitor.


It totally depends on if it is a bootable back up. Was it made with a software like carbon copy cloner?

Or is this like a Time Machine backup? If it’s time machine it will not be able to boot, but you can restore from time machine. This means you can install a fresh update on a new drive, and then use your time machine back up to migrate all the data to the fresh install.

I am running 10.13.6 on the computer. Over time I have noticed a slow down and the more frequent appearance of the spinning beach ball. Now is showing up constantly.

In June 2021 I bought the Mac Mini M1 that I am currently using. It is a big difference.

My back up hard drive is neither. I just copied the hard drive and moved it over to the back up hard drive. Maybe not the best but at least I have a back up.

 

[Fishrrman]

OP wrote:
"This isn't my main computer so I am not all that concerned... It is old and things begin to fail."

All your questions and problems are addressed in your own words above.

 

[EugW]

A year or so ago I looked into having the hard drive replaced and it was really expensive (1TB HDD $77 & $150 for labor plus tax or 500GB SSD $119, mounting bracket $22 & $150 labor plus tax). Based on the age of the computer, cost and lack of skill I decided not to do it. I opted for a really great deal on Amazon for a new base level Mini ($593 including tax).

My partner says he can replace the hard drive if needed. He has that kind of skill that I don't. OWC has SSD and kit for $60 to $80 depending on what size hard drive I want. If we decide to replace i would need to figure out how to get the computer up and running. I wouldn't transfer the entire hard drive since it would be for his use. I would just transfer MS Office and a few other things.

OWC's 500 GB kit is decent at $80. (It's much more expensive here in Canada which is one reason why I didn't get the kit.)

I just looked this up and apparently your 2010 21.5" and my 2010 27" require the same parts:

1. 480 GB SSD - $40
2. Hard drive bracket - $10
3. Optical drive temperature sensor cable - $10
4. SSD power adapter cable - $5
5. Suction cups - $10

So that's total $75 including the SSD, but that doesn't include screwdrivers. May as well get the OWC kit for $80, as it includes screwdrivers. I'm not sure of the quality of their drive, but for a 2010 iMac it will likely be fine.

BTW, that OWC drive temperature sensor has dropped in price significantly since previous years, probably because people realized a $10 optical drive temperature sensor cable does the same thing, so they stopped buying the OWC one.

 

[Loyola]

OWC's 500 GB kit is decent at $80. (It's much more expensive here in Canada which is one reason why I didn't get the kit.)

I just looked this up and apparently your 2010 21.5" and my 2010 27" require the same parts:

1. 480 GB SSD - $40
2. Hard drive bracket - $10
3. Optical drive temperature sensor cable - $10
4. SSD power adapter cable - $5
5. Suction cups - $10

So that's total $75 including the SSD, but that doesn't include screwdrivers. May as well get the OWC kit for $80, as it includes screwdrivers. I'm not sure of the quality of their drive, but for a 2010 iMac it will likely be fine.

BTW, that OWC drive temperature sensor has dropped in price significantly since previous years, probably because people realized a $10 optical drive temperature sensor cable does the same thing, so they stopped buying the OWC one.

I looked at this one. If I can do it for about that price I would be ok replacing the drive. As I have mentioned the computer is old and no longer my primary. It would just be something for my partner to use.

 

[rpmurray]

1. 480 GB SSD - $40
2. Hard drive bracket - $10
3. Optical drive temperature sensor cable - $10
4. SSD power adapter cable - $5
5. Suction cups - $10

Might be better if you made these links to where to buy the items.

 

[EugW]

Might be better if you made these links to where to buy the items.

I left it out because I recommended she buy the OWC kit. In Canada I wouldn't get the kit, but the Canadian links would not be useful to her.

So how is this used? The iMac hard drive has a built-in temperature sensor, and you need to run a cable from that hard drive sensor connector to the motherboard. If you don't, the fans will run at maximum.

OWC's solution is their own custom cable that will provide a temperature reading from a peel-n-stick on sensor that you stick on the SSD, and which also has another connector cable (not pictured) from the sensor that plugs into the motherboard. It used to be something like $50 a while back, but now it's like $15 IIRC.

What I did is buy the optical drive temp sensor cable instead since it's way cheaper in Canada. For the 27" 2009/2010 it's part number 922-9229. For the 21.5" it's a different part number but I think it may just be because the length of the cable.

It has the same connector as hard drive temp sensor cable at the motherboard, but at the other end it also has a peel-n-stick on sensor, that you can just stick on the outside of the SSD for a temp reading. (See bottom right - 250 GB Samsung SSD.)

Actually, I didn't attach it to the SSD. I just attached it to the hard drive bracket, in case I ever want to swap the SSD later.

However, one FREE way around this is simply to leave the hard drive temp sensor plugged into the motherboard, and then cut that cable in the middle and splice the two ends together. That will stop the fans from running at maximum, but you will get no drive temp reading. That's fine though for a low end SSD appropriate for the iMac since it won't run hot enough to matter.

 

[Loyola]

I bought a replacement drive from OWC. Most of the process has been completed however we are having trouble reconnecting the LCD display cable. Any suggestions on how to easily accomplish this? The video makes it look easy.

 

[Juicy Box]

Any suggestions on how to easily accomplish this?

If it is anything like the Mid 2011 (which I think it is), it slides into place and locks with then clip.

It feels kind of awkward when sliding into place, like it isn't actually connecting to anything, but as long as the clip can secure it easily with no force, then it is connected.

 

[pshufd]

I have a 2010 27 inch iMac, i7, 32 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD. So basically maxed out. I plan to sell it for $75 - $100. I would not put more than $100 into a 21.5 inch iMac. There's a 2013 iMac for sale nearby for $180. i5, 8 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD and you can just add a USB3 SSD to boot and run off of - no taking it apart required. Used Apple equipment is dropping pretty fast because of Apple Silicon.

 

[EugW]

I bought a replacement drive from OWC. Most of the process has been completed however we are having trouble reconnecting the LCD display cable. Any suggestions on how to easily accomplish this? The video makes it look easy.

It should slide right in IIRC. There isn't a lot of slack though.

I have a 2010 27 inch iMac, i7, 32 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD. So basically maxed out. I plan to sell it for $75 - $100. I would not put more than $100 into a 21.5 inch iMac. There's a 2013 iMac for sale nearby for $180. i5, 8 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD and you can just add a USB3 SSD to boot and run off of - no taking it apart required. Used Apple equipment is dropping pretty fast because of Apple Silicon.

I have been delaying getting rid of my 2010 27" because it still works fine (and I have kids that can use it), now that I've installed a 256 GB SSD. Also, it still works fine as a monitor. I'd rather keep it than sell it for CA$150 or whatever.

 

[pshufd]

I have been delaying getting rid of my 2010 27" because it still works fine (and I have kids that can use it), now that I've installed a 256 GB SSD. Also, it still works fine as a monitor. I'd rather keep it than sell it for CA$150 or whatever.

Electricity prices doubled in my state this past summer and it appears that they are going to keep rising. My 2009, 2010 and 2014 iMacs work too and can also be used as monitors but I've upgraded to Apple Silicon with one eye on efficiency and not having to cool the heat that Intel systems generate.

iMacs are pretty sturdy and are usable for a long time.

 

[Loyola]

If it is anything like the Mid 2011 (which I think it is), it slides into place and locks with then clip.

It feels kind of awkward when sliding into place, like it isn't actually connecting to anything, but as long as the clip can secure it easily with no force, then it is connected.

It should slide right in IIRC. There isn't a lot of slack though.

I have been delaying getting rid of my 2010 27" because it still works fine (and I have kids that can use it), now that I've installed a 256 GB SSD. Also, it still works fine as a monitor. I'd rather keep it than sell it for CA$150 or whatever.

It has been a struggle to get it to slide in place and lock. The screen is black when I turn it on. When I connect to an external monitor it works as expected. I did that as test to try to determine if there was another reason for a black screen. After opening it back up, I could see the cable was not attached. I think if I can get this cable to attach correctly it would be all good.

I have a 2010 27 inch iMac, i7, 32 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD. So basically maxed out. I plan to sell it for $75 - $100. I would not put more than $100 into a 21.5 inch iMac. There's a 2013 iMac for sale nearby for $180. i5, 8 GB RAM, 1 TB HDD and you can just add a USB3 SSD to boot and run off of - no taking it apart required. Used Apple equipment is dropping pretty fast because of Apple Silicon.

I got a good deal from Amazon on the OWC SSD drive. The 250 GB drive was a little over $50. I think that was a good price to have a second computer. My Mac Mini M1 is working out well for my needs.

 

[Loyola]

We are still having trouble getting the LCD display cable to slide into place. Not sure why we are having such an issue with this part. I am close to just giving up and trashing the computer. The videos make it look so easy.

 

[Juicy Box]

We are still having trouble getting the LCD display cable to slide into place. Not sure why we are having such an issue with this part. I am close to just giving up and trashing the computer. The videos make it look so easy.

It doesn't snap in or anything. It just slides in, and the bracket holds it on. There shouldn't be any force to get it in.

Any chance you damaged the end?

 

[Loyola]

It doesn't snap in or anything. It just slides in, and the bracket holds it on. There shouldn't be any force to get it in.

Any chance you damaged the end?

We are just trying to slide it in. It could be damaged but I don't know. I wasn't there when the computer was taken apart and was brought in later to help with this cable. I am having trouble when I flip the handle down to lock it in place.

I know the cable is the issue because an external monitor works.

 

[Nguyen Duc Hieu]

We are just trying to slide it in. It could be damaged but I don't know. I wasn't there when the computer was taken apart and was brought in later to help with this cable. I am having trouble when I flip the handle down to lock it in place.

I know the cable is the issue because an external monitor works.

You can take out the LCD panel and closely examine the exact location of this issue.
If it's only the cable, the replacement cable is pretty cheap, easy to fix, too.
If it's the LVDS socket on the logicboard, maybe you'll have to work around.
The LVDS cable is not easy to attach properly. It normally takes me 5~10minutes just to attach this cable during the whole disassembling-reassembling process.

 

[EugW]

You can take out the LCD panel and closely examine the exact location of this issue.
If it's only the cable, the replacement cable is pretty cheap, easy to fix, too.
If it's the LVDS socket on the logicboard, maybe you'll have to work around.
The LVDS cable is not easy to attach properly. It normally takes me 5~10minutes just to attach this cable during the whole disassembling-reassembling process.

Weird. I've only done this re-assembly once, and that cable slid right in for me. It was under 1 minute. Maybe I got lucky.

The hard part for me was actually putting the screws back for the screen. Cuz every time I went to put a screw in, the magnets (for the front glass) caught it and pulled it away from the socket. Eventually I used a grasper to hold the screws to place them in the sockets.

 

[Nguyen Duc Hieu]

Weird. I've only done this re-assembly once, and that cable slid right in for me. It was under 1 minute. Maybe I got lucky.

The hard part for me was actually putting the screws back for the screen. Cuz ever time I went to put the screw in, the magnets (for the front glass) caught it and pulled it away from the socket. Eventually I used a grasper to hold the screws to place them in the sockets.

I got the same issue for the first 2,3 times.
Later-on I figured out that if I use a magnetized screwdriver and slowly adjust the screwdriver tip, I won't need the grasper.

 

[Loyola]

You can take out the LCD panel and closely examine the exact location of this issue.
If it's only the cable, the replacement cable is pretty cheap, easy to fix, too.
If it's the LVDS socket on the logicboard, maybe you'll have to work around.
The LVDS cable is not easy to attach properly. It normally takes me 5~10minutes just to attach this cable during the whole disassembling-reassembling process.

At some point it isn't going to be worth the effort especially if something is damaged.

When this looked easy and I got the hard drive for $50 it made sense. I priced having a company replace the hard drive and it was over $300 which was not worth the expense.