i have an early 2011 13" Pro. increasingly, the A-L row of keys have been non-responsive. even had to change my password to avoid that row! sometimes ok, sometimes bad. help!
i have an early 2011 13" Pro. increasingly, the A-L row of keys have been non-responsive. even had to change my password to avoid that row! sometimes ok, sometimes bad. help!
thx for that thorough reply, and offer to assist. i don't mind fixing my own stuff in life, but a couple hours with lots of tiny screws! wondering why sometimes (like right now), all keys responding; other times dead?Bad news:
Keyboard failures like these, even if you’ve been assiduous and careful with keeping everything dry and clean ever since day one, are fairly common with the unibody MBPs (including even the later retina MBPs, whose keyboards are fairly similar).
On my own early 2011 13-inch, the i5/2.3, it is now on its third keyboard: the first failure happened within the first year of ownership (right when I was trying to finish a graduate thesis, no less), and Apple replaced the top case; the second happened three years later and I replaced that keyboard myself.
Good news!
Your best bet, as was with mine last time, is to replace the keyboard yourself. which, if you’re comfortable with opening up things, have an electronics repair tool kit with bits for fine-tipped phillips and tri-screw heads and using step-by-step guides like iFixit, isn’t very expensive or difficult to do. It does help to pace yourself and to be patient while you do it. The link to that repair tool kit is an example, but there are many similar kits available pretty much everywhere online. (At my local computer retailer in town, i found an Aliexpress-like brand which had all the tools and bits I needed, and it probably cost me a fourth of what iFixit charges for theirs. It’s cheap af, but it’s still getting the job done some 12 years on).
Also fortunately, a replacement keyboard kit (here’s one example; there are several on there and sites like ebay) is inexpensive (always refreshing news), but it does take a couple of hours to swap out the old with the new. You’ll probably also want to get an ice cube tray or two at the dollar store to keep track of your screws — i.e., one tray hole per iFixit step or some system which makes sense to you.
What you’ll need to do is follow steps #1-39 in this iFixit guide, then switch to this guide (no idea why iFixit did it this way) and follow steps #27–29. Reassembly is all of this, in reverse.
Hopefully this doesn’t sound too intimidating (really, once you’re doing it, it’s not intimidating, but it does take paying attention and also keeping track of bits). If you have other questions, I’d be glad to help to answer them.
The kludge workaround, of course, is to connect a USB or Bluetooth keyboard, but that sort of undermines the utility of a laptop.
Saved, for now, by my forgotten A1314 Bluetooth keyboard! Great fit too.