The connector in your picture doesn’t look too bad. I have had success in the past with unreliable display connections in the 17” G4 by just unplugging and replugging the connector.
After a bit of hunting around, I found a schematic for a USB2 17” iMac G4 motherboard. This connector (J12) is pinned out on page 26 as the “INTERNAL TDMS CONNECTOR”, and the part number given there is FI-TWE21P-VF.
This part seems to be out of production, but there are a couple sites that seem to carry it:
Thanks mate! I took this picture from a working imac g4 logic board. The messed up connector was much worse. I am getting my hands dirty with removing capacitors and connectors off a broken intel P4 mobo for practice. It's quite hard removing capacitors with a soldering iron. Going to learn hot air reworking but got to get one hot air rework station first.
Thanks mate! I took this picture from a working imac g4 logic board. The messed up connector was much worse. I am getting my hands dirty with removing capacitors and connectors off a broken intel P4 mobo for practice. It's quite hard removing capacitors with a soldering iron. Going to learn hot air reworking but got to get one hot air rework station first.
A hot air station is definitely the way to go. I have one and it makes SMD component replacement much easier than a soldering iron. If you don't already have one I would also recommend a good quality soldering iron for when it's time to put on the new parts.
Thanks mate! I took this picture from a working imac g4 logic board. The messed up connector was much worse. I am getting my hands dirty with removing capacitors and connectors off a broken intel P4 mobo for practice. It's quite hard removing capacitors with a soldering iron. Going to learn hot air reworking but got to get one hot air rework station first.
Hot air rework is a great tool, but you also might want to know about Chip-Quik, which is a low melting point solder alloy that lets you get a whole lot of pins hot at once, making it easier to remove large components, especially through-hole ones. This particular connector happens to be surface-mount, so hot air is probably the better approach in this case.
Easily Remove Smd Parts With Chip Quik Removal Alloy. Reduce Heat And Reduce Damage To Circuit Boards And Smd Parts During Removal. Comes With Smd291 Flux.
Your link was broken, but I think I fixed it... I know a guy with that unit who swears by it. I think he did some QFN assembly work with the hot air gun, and having the iron and DC power supply looks pretty convenient.
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