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er8563

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Nov 22, 2020
7
0
Hello All,

I have a 2010 17 inch Macbook Pro (A1297). It also has a pink vertical line on the screen. It crashes before it can finish booting. When it does boot, opening email or watching Youtube videos causes a kernel panic. However, it runs fine in safe mode. I tried deleting the NVIDIA kext files and changing variables but that didn't fix anything. I was reading a forum on MacRumors, where one of the posts said to Replace both, c9510 to 330uf 2v and c9560 to 220uf 2v. I have attached a link to it below. I was wondering whether a 330uf 2v (aluminum capacitor) could replace both c9510 and c9560 on an 820-2849 board? Would it stop the crashing? If not, what capacitors would you recommend to fix the board. Also, is there a soldering method to disable the dGPU and make the system run off of iGPU? How common is this issue? Is my computer fixable?

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Html Hack

macrumors newbie
Mar 16, 2021
2
0
Hi, I am having similar GPU kernel panics on the same model, MBP6,1 mid-2010 17". Did you find a fix or get any responses? My understanding is that the capacitor fix that works on the 15" from the same model year doesn't work for the 17". Neither do the kext file modifications here (https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/gpu-kernel-panic-in-mid-2010-whats-the-best-fix.1890097/page-42).

I started having these issues recently in the 17" after 10+ years, black screen restart, then if it reboots, a GPU kernel panic report. It gets triggered randomly after a discrete GPU call, meaning it doesn't always crash if the discrete Nvidia 330 is in use. gfxCardStatus helps to see that, but otherwise is not much help in avoiding panics, even if "Integrated Only" is chosen, since the coder had to allow for discrete calls and enables the "Dynamic Switching" as default. I also have another issue that the computer refuses to reboot after most panics, getting stuck in a mode with a soft repeated clicking sound. Doesn't appear to be the hard drive, comes from the upper LHC near the MagSafe plug. Not sure what that is. Eventually reboots after numerous pushes of the power button.

The bottom line is that there are almost no threads on the 17" issue, almost all on the 15" or other models. If anyone else reading this can help us both out....I know I'm not replacing a capacitor on the 17" that isn't the problem. Different HW configuration! Thanks!
 
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