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unbendablestraw

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Feb 2, 2022
11
10
discord.gg/track44
I *think* I have found a suitable replacement amp IC for the Apple HomePod. Well, it works for now at least, we'll see how it holds up.

Homepods seem notorious for issues caused by this amp IC being faulty, ranging from death farts, to the subwoofer output dying, to the homepod not powering on at all. This chip was a custom part made only for apple's homepods (the infineon 98-0431) and until now there was no obvious replacement.

A few months ago, I saw someone on reddit attempt to replace this chip with an IR4302 that you can get off digikey, but they were unsuccessful. Looking at their photos it didn't seem like it had very high chances of working (no offense, my first few attempts looked the same / worse)

Anyways, I recently ordered a few various amp ICs off digikey / mouser that looked suspiciously similar to the propietary amp IC part number 98-0431, in hopes that they would "just work". The replacement part numbers are IR4312, IR4322, and IR4302. I grabbed a couple of each cause I know I would mess this up...

The IR4312 showed up in the mail first, so that's what I tried. I used a $60 amazon hot air rework station, I did not preheat the board, just put the old chip under lots of flux and heat for 30-45 seconds at max temp max airflow and popped it off (there is a good spot about 3/4 down the chip to grab it). Then cleaned up the pads, pre-tinned, and placed the new chip on before heating it back into place. It was incredibly tricky to line the chip up perfectly with the pads below. The first attempt resulted in fire and flames, killing the IC. The second attempt with another IR4312 produced a constant clicking sound from the subwoofer when plugged in, so I gave it one more try, and to my surprise IT WORKED AND IT DOOFS!

As a side note, random sources say the homepod's subwoofer is rated for 50watts at 4ohms (dunno if thats peak or rms), and according to Infineon's datasheet, IR4312 goes up to 35w4Ohm or 40w3Ohm. I'm not sure if the IR4312 will be adequate long term but I will try the other models when they arrive and provide an update!

This otherwise death-fart ridden homepod has not death farted once since the repair when it previously death farted every few minutes regardless of playing music or not! HOWEVER, there is still a very subtle pop when going in and out of standby or when I wiggle the subwoofer's connection. It's possible since both the replacement and original IC are made by the same manufacturer that these chips in general are prone to dc offset, or, there is something else causing the dc offset pops. The plan is to grab more of these chips and continue repairing dead boards to see if the dc offset pop moves with the chip or moves with the board. Pending further diagnosis.

In any case, I am thrilled to get more practice with this and soon add it to my homepod repairs I can offer. I've come across four homepods now where they have had failed amp ICs where they either didn't produce any subwoofer output,. death farted all the time, or prevented the homepod from powering on (all of these needed new amp boards because the amp IC in all of them had burned holes in themselves). I think we've finally found a way to repair these!

I have a video quickly showing this working, I'll soon be making a full repair video on my youtube channel if this continues to work well:

36pGekW.png
 

alunjunkinsuk

macrumors member
Dec 8, 2016
36
20
Awesome work ! Does this tie in with the diode issue as well ? I have 4 OG HomePods and two now occasionally death fart ; usually after playing but seems more temp related . All of them seem to make a tiny “fart” as they come out of standby maybe I just never noticed before . But seeems to me I may be able to keep them going with the discoveries being made :)
 

unbendablestraw

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Feb 2, 2022
11
10
discord.gg/track44
I'm not sure sadly, I'm far from an electronics expert and there aren't any schematics available afaik. I *think* the diode is unrelated to any death farts or popping, the diode seems like something that either completely fails resulting in no power or works fine, no inbetween or intermittent functionality.

After swapping around some more ICs here's what I have found;

  • IR4312M seems to work as a replacement for oem 98-0431 and I no longer get death farts after a few days of stress testing. I'm convinced this repair at least resolves death farts and low / no subwoofer output.
  • I still get dc offset pops, even after trying another IR4312M ic chip. I'm almost convinced it's coming from something else now, maybe there is a capacitor or resistor somewhere that falls out of spec over time, which would explain why some people even hear the dc offset pop on brand-new units right out of the box. A capacitor rotting in an unopened unused product makes more sense than a silicon chip rotting in the box to me. I need to learn how to test more components with my multimeter and start comparing measurements between dc offset affected boards and good boards.
  • IR4302M I've tried twice now, and have not gotten this to work. Homepod will power on (it will power on even with no amp IC chip installed,) but there is still no sound to the subwoofer. I'm somewhat convinced now IR4302M isn't suitable, but I'd like to try a few more times to be sure. These chips are starting to cost me some $$ to test ?? but I knew what I was getting into.
  • The last option I can seem to find for readily available off-the-shelf amp IC chips is the IR4322M, which I will order and try in the near future from somewhere that has stock.
  • I've "made" myself a tool out of tweezers that holds the amp IC chip down and in place for me to more easily line up the replacements before using a heat gun to solder them into place, making the repair significantly easier and more likely to be successful.
 

Kenny99

macrumors 6502
Jan 28, 2018
296
114
ST. Louis, Mo.
Have you thought about adding a "curve Tracer" to your troubleshooting equipment. Cheap and easy to make, just add an "O scope".
 

AmonRa

macrumors newbie
Mar 26, 2022
2
0
Владивосток
Good afternoon friends, does anyone have a disassembled HomePod, I'm interested in one detail.
 

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ouimetnick

macrumors 68040
Aug 28, 2008
3,552
6,345
Beverly, Massachusetts
Good afternoon friends, does anyone have a disassembled HomePod, I'm interested in one detail.
Is this of any help?
 

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Fennec

macrumors newbie
Apr 10, 2022
4
0
I *think* I have found a suitable replacement amp IC for the Apple HomePod. Well, it works for now at least, we'll see how it holds up.

Homepods seem notorious for issues caused by this amp IC being faulty, ranging from death farts, to the subwoofer output dying, to the homepod not powering on at all. This chip was a custom part made only for apple's homepods (the infineon 98-0431) and until now there was no obvious replacement.

A few months ago, I saw someone on reddit attempt to replace this chip with an IR4302 that you can get off digikey, but they were unsuccessful. Looking at their photos it didn't seem like it had very high chances of working (no offense, my first few attempts looked the same / worse)

Anyways, I recently ordered a few various amp ICs off digikey / mouser that looked suspiciously similar to the propietary amp IC part number 98-0431, in hopes that they would "just work". The replacement part numbers are IR4312, IR4322, and IR4302. I grabbed a couple of each cause I know I would mess this up...

The IR4312 showed up in the mail first, so that's what I tried. I used a $60 amazon hot air rework station, I did not preheat the board, just put the old chip under lots of flux and heat for 30-45 seconds at max temp max airflow and popped it off (there is a good spot about 3/4 down the chip to grab it). Then cleaned up the pads, pre-tinned, and placed the new chip on before heating it back into place. It was incredibly tricky to line the chip up perfectly with the pads below. The first attempt resulted in fire and flames, killing the IC. The second attempt with another IR4312 produced a constant clicking sound from the subwoofer when plugged in, so I gave it one more try, and to my surprise IT WORKED AND IT DOOFS!

As a side note, random sources say the homepod's subwoofer is rated for 50watts at 4ohms (dunno if thats peak or rms), and according to Infineon's datasheet, IR4312 goes up to 35w4Ohm or 40w3Ohm. I'm not sure if the IR4312 will be adequate long term but I will try the other models when they arrive and provide an update!

This otherwise death-fart ridden homepod has not death farted once since the repair when it previously death farted every few minutes regardless of playing music or not! HOWEVER, there is still a very subtle pop when going in and out of standby or when I wiggle the subwoofer's connection. It's possible since both the replacement and original IC are made by the same manufacturer that these chips in general are prone to dc offset, or, there is something else causing the dc offset pops. The plan is to grab more of these chips and continue repairing dead boards to see if the dc offset pop moves with the chip or moves with the board. Pending further diagnosis.

In any case, I am thrilled to get more practice with this and soon add it to my homepod repairs I can offer. I've come across four homepods now where they have had failed amp ICs where they either didn't produce any subwoofer output,. death farted all the time, or prevented the homepod from powering on (all of these needed new amp boards because the amp IC in all of them had burned holes in themselves). I think we've finally found a way to repair these!

I have a video quickly showing this working, I'll soon be making a full repair video on my youtube channel if this continues to work well:

View attachment 1953784
Thanks a lot for your job

Do you think your fix can fix my problem ?

 

unbendablestraw

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Feb 2, 2022
11
10
discord.gg/track44
That's right, I'm interested in this little detail, I don't understand what it is, Perhaps you could read the name?
Those cheap clip on macro lenses come in handy sometimes :) Mine has "NL" on it. Looks to be something like a 5.1V zener diode! edit; or maybe a suppressor diode....really not sure, hopefully someone can recognize this component better with this photo

Also my apologies for being absent from this thread. Hard to keep up everywhere. I've made a lot of new discoveries since making this post, will share more info shortly
 

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Last edited:

unbendablestraw

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Feb 2, 2022
11
10
discord.gg/track44
@Fennec I replied to your issue in your thread too, let me know if you have any issues with that info.

Anyways, to update the thread and avoid any misinformation from anyone coming across this in the future...copying most of this from my reply in the other thread;

I originally thought death farts came from a failing amp IC. This is not true! As a matter of fact, unless your amp IC chip is obviously damaged, it's almost certainly NOT the cause of any issues. If your chip is damaged, you can still replace it with oem 98-0431 or off the shelf ir4312m.

Death farts, popping, crackling, missing bass, many of these problems actually come from some filtering caps failing over time. They allow DC from the DAC to pass in to the amp IC, which gets amplified and produces unwanted behavior and eventually damages components.

The reason I believe I no longer saw death farts in my original post after replacing the amp IC was because my testing was done with the board outside of the homepod enclosure, likely keeping the capacitors cooled enough to keep them just effective enough to keep the DC threshold below "forced restart" levels.

To diagnose this, first do a thorough visual inspection of the amplifier board, front and back, for any obviously damaged components. Also inspect the subwoofer speaker itself...there are inspection ports to see the condition of the voice coil, it should be a nice vibrant copper color. Gently push the speaker straight in and let go a few times, this should feel perfectly smooth and make no sound. The female pins inside of the subwoofer's connector sometimes also like to widen / loosen up and create an intermittent connection to the board, pretty rare though.

The most common culprit for faulty bass is too much DC coming from the four filtering caps failing, and a blown resistor right next to the subwoofer connector. Check this resistor first, replace if necessary, then move on to the next test.

The four filtering caps will look fine but have actually lost their capacitance, or greatly lose capacitance with any increase in temperature. The subwoofer cable has enough slack for you to connect it with it outside of the homepod so you can probe it's connection for DC. Power everything on, ensure it's not in standby / low power mode but don't play music yet. See how much DC is on the subwoofer. Anything more than +/-200mV is likely going to start causing issues, but as little as +/- 50mV DC is a sign these capacitors are starting to go.

Once you've checked all this and repaired any issues found, and you still have bass issues, I would finally then suspect the amp IC.

Resistor I use something with specs 10Ohm, 1Watt, 1% Tolerance, 200V rated, 1218 size, like part number RCL121810R0FKEK.

Capacitors I use something with specs 10uF, size 1206, X7R, 5-10%, rated for 16v or better, like part number C1206C106J3RACAUTO.

Amp IC can be replaced with either OEM 98-0431 from aliexpress or IR4312M from digikey / mouser / wherever else you can find it.

I've got a video out that shows how to replace these capacitors, and a few livestreams doing the same thing where they also needed new resistors on my youtube channel.

No power issues with shorted s.b. diode is an unrelated issue to bass issues. If you're already inside your homepod, you should check if your s.b. diode has the date code "1748" on it. If so, replace it. I have easily over 50 homepods now that have come in for just no power repairs, they all have the same date code. The few dozen other homepods that have come in for repairs other than no-power, have diodes with different date codes both older and newer, and still work just fine. So the no power issue is probably caused by a bad batch of s.b. diodes.

Sometimes a blown fuse in the power supply will instead be the cause for no-power. It's a standard 250v 15A fuse.
 

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Marc1234

macrumors newbie
Jan 26, 2022
19
1
I love your videos and I’m sure they’re helping to keep HomePods out of the trash and living longer.
Is there any settings I should be enabling or disabling to hopefully make my HomePod last longer?
Personally I’ve found disabling Siri listening makes it go into standby quicker.
 

unbendablestraw

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Feb 2, 2022
11
10
discord.gg/track44
I love your videos and I’m sure they’re helping to keep HomePods out of the trash and living longer.
Is there any settings I should be enabling or disabling to hopefully make my HomePod last longer?
Personally I’ve found disabling Siri listening makes it go into standby quicker.
I don't change any of my HomePod's settings. I have a handful of stereo pairs around the house and the more recent versions of OS 15 combined with my new ubiquiti u6-pro access point have been giving me absolutely flawless performance the past few months. Before this I was pretty sworn on openwrt and linksys routers but this has really changed my perspective on what wifi performance should really be like.

I do hear that mesh wifi can be troublesome, as well as sharing the same ssid for 2.4 and 5ghz bands. You can try to assign a static IP to your homepods based on MAC address, force them to only connect to the closest mesh node, and force them to only connect to the 5ghz if you have these options.

I do know from experience having a bunch of old, offline, or no longer present HomePods in my Home cause responsiveness issues, after I deleted all of the ones that were no longer actually online things went back to normal.

I believe the product will last the longest and give you the best experience being used the way it was designed; plugged in 24/7, generally default settings, listening as loud as you want as often as you want. My rule of thumb for every piece of audio equipment, both input and output, is to not set the volume above 75-80%.

This next suggestion may just be balogna, but I think it would be wise to have your HomePods on surge protectors at the least to protect from power surges. A typical computer UPS is OK....but most of them do nothing to condition the power, so for total overkill you want a battery backup with surge protection and power conditioning.
 

Hoerb

macrumors newbie
Apr 7, 2018
4
1
So this is your page I assume: https://track44.moe/homepods/

Well done and thanks for all the research and sharing!

I‘d sent you my farting one for repair too but shipments to/from the US are just too expensive. Anyone here offering the same in Europe, please let me know.
 

gigaguy

macrumors 65816
Apr 19, 2010
1,380
124
USA
Great work Nic! Doing what trillion$ Apple should be doing, or at least acknowledging flaws in their product (that is only 3-4 years old). I have 3 of them, one has flashing vol. - will not reset or function.
Can we expect Apple to fess up and repair this instead of make you buy another one and send yours to them? Public pressure may help? I can't read the serial # on mine and that has stalled my reporting to Apple.
 

unbendablestraw

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Feb 2, 2022
11
10
discord.gg/track44
Great work Nic! Doing what trillion$ Apple should be doing, or at least acknowledging flaws in their product (that is only 3-4 years old). I have 3 of them, one has flashing vol. - will not reset or function.
Can we expect Apple to fess up and repair this instead of make you buy another one and send yours to them? Public pressure may help? I can't read the serial # on mine and that has stalled my reporting to Apple.
There is an ongoing class-action against Apple for the 14.6 update bricking homepods: https://pdfserver.amlaw.com/legalradar/43637181_complaint.pdf

Unfortuantely it seems the folks suing Apple didn't consult any HomePod repair experts ;) They don't address a lot of the other homepod issues that are, in my opinion more common, such as no power and bass issues (they incorrectly attributed these to 14.6 update issues.) Nor do they say or ask for anything about giving us a way to restore bricked homepods, via the USB pinout accessible on the bottom of the homepod. It takes less than a minute to solder a usb cable onto the bottom, or fashion yourself a nice adapter (as if Apple doesn't have their own) and connect it to a Mac/PC,where you get the option to restore it, but Apple's servers won't provide restore software and they won't give us an .ipsw like literally every other Apple product. See https://track44.moe/homepods/#commonissues

Anyways, here's to hoping maybe we get acknowledgement and a tool and/or software to finally restore bricked homepods. Probably not though. Sigh.
 
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unbendablestraw

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Feb 2, 2022
11
10
discord.gg/track44
So this is your page I assume: https://track44.moe/homepods/

Well done and thanks for all the research and sharing!

I‘d sent you my farting one for repair too but shipments to/from the US are just too expensive. Anyone here offering the same in Europe, please let me know.
Yep that's me. I know two international folks also offering repairs, I have their information on my website at https://track44.moe/homepods/#mailaddress one of them is in the UK

If anyone else is in the HomePod repair game and you want to be listed on my website as a repair partner just let me know.
 
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