MP 6,1 mp6,1 replacement thermal pads

[crash_log]

Howdy,
I have a 6,1 with plans of upgrading the processor soon. I figure once I'm in there I'll repaste the gpu's too, they are the 700's and I figure ounce of prevention.

I can't send to locate a REC for make/type/spec of the thermal pads. Any suggestions?

-thanks!

 

[Snow Tiger]

Howdy,
I have a 6,1 with plans of upgrading the processor soon. I figure once I'm in there I'll repaste the gpu's too, they are the 700's and I figure ounce of prevention.

I can't send to locate a REC for make/type/spec of the thermal pads. Any suggestions?

-thanks!

Try as I might , I cannot decipher the phrase , "send to locate a REC" . Is this word salad or pidgin English ?

Anyways , there is thermal paste for the GPU dies . And then there is thermal gap materials for the Vram chips .

Remove the old factory thermal paste from the GPU dies and replace with Arctic MX4 .

I don't think you need to replace the thermal gaps materials for the Vram chips yet . Gap materials stay viable for a very long time , usually . However , there are replacement gap materials made by Fujipoly , Laird and 3M if you have a need .

There is an iFixit instructional here :

Mac Pro Late 2013 Graphics Card Replacement

Use this guide to replace either of the dual graphics cards in your Mac Pro. The procedure is shown on one card, but it is essentially identical...

www.ifixit.com

If you wish to replace the Vram thermal gap materials , you will need to use a caliper and inform me of the thickness , width and length of the factory materials . I can then look up in the manufacturer's catalogs for the replacement gap materials and provide you with make and model info .

 

[tommy chen]

do not use thermal pads for xeon CPU!

the use of thermal paste like arctic MX4 is recommended!!!

 

[crash_log]

Thank you Snow Tiger:
I can't send to locate a REC for make/type/spec of the thermal pads. Translates: I can't seem to locate a recommendation for make/type/spec of the thermal pads. Brevity and autocorrect got me.

Got it, I knew to re-paste the gpus but leaving the pads be is good to know. I've not gotten inside the machine to see if they needed it but I only intend on doing this work once so just over preparing.

Thanks IndioX
Yes, got it.

 

[Snow Tiger]

do not use thermal pads for xeon CPU!

the use of thermal paste like arctic MX4 is recommended!!!

Yes , my favorite paste !

But , I can think of one exception to your "don't use thermal pad for CPUs" rule .

Graphite .

IBM and AMD have approved the use of this TIM in GPUs . And Ericsson did a lot of research into this for phones .

https://neograf.com/wp-content/uploads/Novel-Graphite-based-TIM-for-High-Performance-Computing.pdf

https://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:729472/FULLTEXT01.pdf

It was used on the AMD Radeon VII's GPU die and other Builders have used it experimentally on CPUs , too .

AMD Radeon VII Disassembly, Cooler, Graphite Thermal Pad, & PCB | GamersNexus

stub The AMD Radeon VII embargo for “unboxings” has lifted and, although we don’t participate in the marketing that is a content-filtered “unboxing,” a regular part of our box-opening process involves taking the product apart. For today, restrictions are placed on performance discussion and...

www.gamersnexus.net

Its tricky stuff , but has advantages .

Advantages of Graphite TIM :

capable of lasting for a very long time .

provides excellent thermal conductivity , up to 23 W/m-K .

no pump out concerns , as found with paste .


Disadvantages of Graphite TIM :

hardness of materials and in-plane / out-plane thermal conductivity concerns are crucial .

cannot be re-used safely . It's a consumable . Worse , there are no visual indicators of this .

damaged pad will generate false thermal sensor readings .

highly electrically conductive . So if / when the material disintegrates it could cause a short in a System .

makes rework / servicing of electronics more difficult .

 

[tommy chen]

if it is installed by factory it will work
installed by user 70% fail

 

[loby]

Try as I might , I cannot decipher the phrase , "send to locate a REC" . Is this word salad or pidgin English ?

Anyways , there is thermal paste for the GPU dies . And then there is thermal gap materials for the Vram chips .

Remove the old factory thermal paste from the GPU dies and replace with Arctic MX4 .

I don't think you need to replace the thermal gaps materials for the Vram chips yet . Gap materials stay viable for a very long time , usually . However , there are replacement gap materials made by Fujipoly , Laird and 3M if you have a need .

There is an iFixit instructional here :

Mac Pro Late 2013 Graphics Card Replacement

Use this guide to replace either of the dual graphics cards in your Mac Pro. The procedure is shown on one card, but it is essentially identical...

www.ifixit.com

If you wish to replace the Vram thermal gap materials , you will need to use a caliper and inform me of the thickness , width and length of the factory materials . I can then look up in the manufacturer's catalogs for the replacement gap materials and provide you with make and model info .

Thanks for the information. Just want to make sure for clarity...a few questions please to answer to help:

If I want to redo the GPU thermal paste on the graphic cards, I do not need to replace the Vram thermal gap pads (material) ?

If I pull off the video cards, the Vram thermal gap pads only sticks on the heatsink and does not stick to the card, so when I pull the graphic cards off, there is no need to replace the Vram pads?

After pulling off the cards, the Vram pads will not be melted or will not be flaky, so the pads do not need to be replace?

If this is true, then that would be a relief...for better to know first before pulling off the cards.

Most likely, in my case, the pads are still ok (my unit was put-together in early 2016: i.e. 4 years ago). The mac pro 2013 was used for video production, so GPUs had a lot of use.

Thanks for the assistance. I too will be replacing my CPU in a few days and thought to also replace the GPU thermal paste since the system is opened and taken apart (don"t really want to do this again...just once).

Thanks again for the help!

 

[crash_log]

This is a far superior phrasing. This was my exact thoughts/questions.
Thanks Loby!!

 

[Snow Tiger]

If I want to redo the GPU thermal paste on the graphic cards, I do not need to replace the Vram thermal gap pads (material) ?

Yup . Just replace the dried factory thermal paste on the GPU with a fresh coat of Arctic MX4 . Make it thin . Excess will act like insulation . No need to worry about the VRAM thermal gap material unless it breaks apart .

Follow the iFixit instructional link .

 

[loby]

Yup . Just replace the dried factory thermal paste with a fresh coat of Arctic MX4 . Make it thin . Excess will act like insulation . No need to worry about the VRAM thermal gap material unless it breaks apart .

Follow the iFixit instructional link .

Last question:

Would you recommend just putting a bean size amount in the middle and putting the cards back on, or spreading the thermal paste over the whole GPU (and CPU also) before putting them back etc. I have asked others about this, but no-one has really said what would be the best way to apply the thermal paste for the mac pro 2013. There are many ways of doing it, but not sure which is better for the mac pro 2013 given its design etc.

I heard (generally) if you spread the paste over the whole CPU/GPU it could cause air bubbles after putting it back on?.

I also heard that, if you just put a bean size amount on the CPU and a little smaller (rice size) on the GPU in the middle of the CPU/GPUs and then put it on, sometimes the thermal paste might not cover all of the CPU/GPUs after tightening?

I have read (generic application-not specifically for the mac pro 2013) some say that the bean and rice style is better to do, for it will spread across the whole CPU/GPUs, allowing for a really thin coating. Heat will cause the thermal paste to flow to the ends of the CPU/GPU at first if you put the paste in the center. Again, not sure if this is the best for the mac pro 2013?

Which method did you use?

Thanks again!

 

[Snow Tiger]

Last question:

Would you recommend just putting a bean size amount in the middle and putting the cards back on, or spreading the thermal paste over the whole GPU (and CPU also) before putting them back etc. I have asked others about this, but no-one has really said what would be the best way to apply the thermal paste for the mac pro 2013. There are many ways of doing it, but not sure which is better for the mac pro 2013 given its design etc.

I heard (generally) if you spread the paste over the whole CPU/GPU it could cause air bubbles after putting it back on?.

I also heard that, if you just put a bean size amount on the CPU and a little smaller (rice size) on the GPU in the middle of the CPU/GPUs and then put it on, sometimes the thermal paste might not cover all of the CPU/GPUs after tightening?

I have read (generic application-not specifically for the mac pro 2013) some say that the bean and rice style is better to do, for it will spread across the whole CPU/GPUs, allowing for a really thin coating. Heat will cause the thermal paste to flow to the ends of the CPU/GPU at first if you put the paste in the center. Again, not sure if this is the best for the mac pro 2013?

Which method did you use?

Thanks again!

Here's the method I use for LGA 771 to LGA 2011 based Xeon Systems .

Prep the thermal area :

Clean the thermal area of the chip ( and its corresponding heat sink ) of all factory paste . The tools used are wooden stick cotton swabs , the flat ends of antistatic black sticks and higher purity ( 70 - 100 percent ) isopropyl alcohol . Once this is done , rub the thermal area with a new , disposable paper coffee filter . This will fine clean the thermal areas and also are lint free by health law . All the same , afterwards brush the thermal area with a bristle brush and blow this thermal area with a fan to remove any particulate contamination that might remain . Do not touch the thermal area with your fingers , as a fingerprint is surprisingly thick and will interfere with thermal conductivity .

There is a special case lately . Some manufacturers are using graphite pads in lieu of thermal paste . This pad will probably have to be scraped off with a black stick . They never should be re-used ( even if not removed ) as graphite TIM has no physical condition memory - it will remain crushed , once so , even if there is no visual indication . Reusing graphite TIM will play havoc with proper cooling and generate false thermal sensor reports , especially if the pad becomes uneven . GRAPHITE IS HIGHLY ELECTRICALLY CONDUCTIVE and loose pieces of this around electronic goods will short circuit components . So be very careful when working with this material .

Applying thermal paste :

Initially , I apply 9 to 25 small beads of thermal paste equally spaced in a grid over the entire thermal surface of a die , IHS or heatsink . ( With some thermal pastes ( AS5 ) , it is recommended to use them on both the chip die / IHS AND its heatsink , as tinting reduces the break in time . I don't need to do this with MX4 ) . Spread as thin as possible a layer of thermal paste over the entire surface of a chip's die or integrated heatspreader using an antistatic black stick . Remove any excess by wiping your stick onto a nearby rubber pad . If you can still see metal , its too thin an application and you need to add . I usually use Arctic MX4 . And when I use the end of the antistatic black stick , which has a pretty small flat end , I press moderately down on the thermal area while spreading the paste . I have a theory this assists in inserting paste molecules into the tiny surface imperfections of the metal dies , IHS and heatsinks . The inability of two thermal areas to microscopically interface perfectly by themselves is the reason why paste is required in the first place . This is why I like to do this operation by hand with this black stick - it gives me a lot of control .

Try to apply the thermal paste within 30 minutes , as exposure to air will denature these materials .

With regards to application on dies ( no IHS ) , it is mandatory the entire thermal area is covered with paste . If you want to get fancy , you could do research on where to spread paste on particular chips with IHS , as it does not need to be entirely covered . I always cover the entire surface area of an IHS because its quicker for me .

I'm not worried about air bubbles with this method and I'm going to ignore people that argue with me , too , on this point . I have real world , long term experience and feedback on over a thousand workstation builds using the above method . It took me 15-20 years worth of experience to perfect processor installation and my Builds last much longer than average . Reality trumps theory , always in my book . I'm a practical guy .

The black stick I use is a Menda 35622 - Nylon Point Blade Probe, 6", Black :

MENDA - 35622 Nylon Point Blade Probe, 6", Black

Menda 6" Nylon Point-Blade Probes are ideal for use in an ESD Protected area. Material is temperature resistant and will not damage surfaces.

menda.descoindustries.com

This is not a tool or procedure that is easy to use by novices , but it produces great results .

 

[loby]

Here's the method I use for LGA 771 to LGA 2011 based Xeon Systems .

Prep the thermal area :

Clean the thermal area of the chip ( and its corresponding heat sink ) of all factory paste . The tools used are wooden stick cotton swabs , the flat ends of antistatic black sticks and higher purity ( 70 - 100 percent ) isopropyl alcohol . Once this is done , rub the thermal area with a new , disposable paper coffee filter . This will fine clean the thermal areas and also are lint free by health law . All the same , afterwards brush the thermal area with a bristle brush and blow this thermal area with a fan to remove any particulate contamination that might remain . Do not touch the thermal area with your fingers , as a fingerprint is surprisingly thick and will interfere with thermal conductivity .

There is a special case lately . Some manufacturers are using graphite pads in lieu of thermal paste . This pad will probably have to be scraped off with a black stick . They never should be re-used ( even if not removed ) as graphic TIM has no physical condition memory - it will remain crushed , once so , even if there is no visual indication . Reusing graphite TIM will play havoc with proper cooling and generate false thermal sensor reports , especially if the pad becomes uneven . GRAPHITE IS HIGHLY ELECTRICALLY CONDUCTIVE and loose pieces of this around electronic goods will short circuit components . So be very careful when working with this material .

Applying thermal paste :

Initially , I apply 9 to 25 small beads of thermal paste equally spaced in a grid over the entire thermal surface of a die , IHS or heatsink . ( With some thermal pastes ( AS5 ) , it is recommended to use them on both the chip die / IHS AND its heatsink , as tinting reduces the break in time . I don't need to do this with MX4 ) . Spread as thin as possible a layer of thermal paste over the entire surface of a chip's die or integrated heatspreader using an antistatic black stick . Remove any excess by wiping your stick onto a nearby rubber pad . If you can still see metal , its too thin an application and you need to add . I usually use Arctic MX4 . And when I use the end of the antistatic black stick , which has a pretty small flat end , I press moderately down on the thermal area while spreading the paste . I have a theory this assists in inserting paste molecules into the tiny surface imperfections of the metal dies , IHS and heatsinks . The inability of two thermal areas to microscopically interface perfectly by themselves is the reason why paste is required in the first place . This is why I like to do this operation by hand with this black stick - it gives me a lot of control .

Try to apply the thermal paste within 30 minutes , as exposure to air will denature these materials .

With regards to application on dies ( no IHS ) , it is mandatory the entire thermal area is covered with paste . If you want to get fancy , you could do research on where to spread paste on particular chips with IHS , as it does not need to be entirely covered . I always cover the entire surface area of an IHS because its quicker for me .

I'm not worried about air bubbles with this method and I'm going to ignore people that argue with me , too , on this point . I have real world , long term experience and feedback on over a thousand workstation builds using the above method . It took me 15-20 years worth of experience to perfect processor installation and my Builds last much longer than average . Reality trumps theory , always in my book . I'm a practical guy .

The black stick I use is a Menda 35622 - Nylon Point Blade Probe, 6", Black :

MENDA - 35622 Nylon Point Blade Probe, 6", Black

Menda 6" Nylon Point-Blade Probes are ideal for use in an ESD Protected area. Material is temperature resistant and will not damage surfaces.

menda.descoindustries.com

View attachment 913558

This is not a tool or procedure that is easy to use by novices , but it produces great results .

Thank you for the very detailed information.

I fully agree with your method, for when I replaced CPUs over 20+years ago (just a few), Your method is basically how I did it (Though probably not as good as you) . I prefer and appreciate hearing from those who have real experience and not just sloppy videos or people who “think” they know because they did it once or read a manual or Just watched youtube (Though sometimes that is “ok“ of course, for there is Also great info out online too). Great advice about the coffee strainer use !!!

I cringe when I see people in videos grab memory and touch the chips as if it is “ok” and not a concern...makes me think: “Can I trust this person telling me how to do this procedure?” “Look how they do the simple “regular” upgrades...?” Guess my thinking is “old school”. Also, when people sloppily throw on “grease” like they are doing their hair when applying thermal paste and calling it a day also raises my eyebrows at times in amazement....

Since I have not done this for a number of years, I thought that maybe things have changed and therefore not a concern about technique etc. as before. Thanks for the reminder of how to professionally do this very important process to maintain the health of my system.

If someone wants to keep their expensive computer (mac pro 2013) for a long time, your method (in my opinion) is ideal For longevity.


Many thanks again and will dive into mac pro 2013 to upgrade my CPU this week and hope I am not too rusty..

 

[Snow Tiger]

I cringe when I see people in videos grab memory and touch the chips as if it is “ok” and not a concern...makes me think: “Can I trust this person telling me how to do this procedure?” “Look how they do the simple “regular” upgrades...?” Guess my thinking is “old school”. Also, when people sloppily throw on “grease” like they are doing their hair when applying thermal paste and calling it a day also raises my eyebrows at times in amazement....

Thank you for your kind words .

I always have to wonder about the usefulness of those youtube instructionals . They seem much more emotionally than factually based . My favorite is Linus Tips . When I want to raise my self esteem , I'll watch something by him .

When I was growing up , there was a saying ,

"Those who can , do .
Those who can't , teach .
And those that can't do either become gym teachers ."

Trouble is , these days gym teachers get paid a hundred Gs a year ... So , who's laughing ?

 

[MisterAndrew]

Apple has grease stencils available for the CPU and GPUs.

 

[MisterAndrew]

When working on the Mac Pro Apple also specifies to use a 0.3 to 1.2 Nm variable torque screwdriver. It's a Wera brand. They list the tightening torques in the service manual.
[automerge]1589134841[/automerge]
Apple says the thermal pads cannot be re-used. They must be replaced. The part number for D300 is 923-00323. For D500/D700 the part number is 923-00324. They come in a pack of 4. You need 1 pack per GPU. I would advise against doing this work without Apple's instructions.

It's roughly $500 for the correct service tools to work on the CPU and GPUs so if you can find an authorized service provider that will do it for less I think that's a better option, unless you need to work on it often (or multiple units).

 

[loby]

Thank you for your kind words .

I always have to wonder about the usefulness of those youtube instructionals . They seem much more emotionally than factually based . My favorite is Linus Tips . When I want to raise my self esteem , I'll watch something by him .

When I was growing up , there was a saying ,

"Those who can , do .
Those who can't , teach .
And those that can't do either become gym teachers ."

Trouble is , these days gym teachers get paid a hundred Gs a year ... So , who's laughing ?

Such is the way of the world now-a-days.... I have not heard that bit of forgotten wisdom "truth" in Years!!!!!

For those who are younger (or not from the East Coast) reading this, you will need to substitute the word "gym" for "P.E." and you will get the meaning.

Thanks for the smile today. We need it on occasion in changing times!

 

[loby]

When working on the Mac Pro Apple also specifies to use a 0.3 to 1.2 Nm variable torque screwdriver. It's a Wera brand. They list the tightening torques in the service manual.
[automerge]1589134841[/automerge]
Apple says the thermal pads cannot be re-used. They must be replaced. The part number for D300 is 923-00323. For D500/D700 the part number is 923-00324. They come in a pack of 4. You need 1 pack per GPU. I would advise against doing this work without Apple's instructions.

It's roughly $500 for the correct service tools to work on the CPU and GPUs so if you can find an authorized service provider that will do it for less I think that's a better option, unless you need to work on it often (or multiple units).

Thanks for that bit of caution... I thought the pads (logically) would need to be replaced once the cards are separated from the body...they would probably now be flaking some after exposed to marshmallow frying heat for some years.

The issue now is if you want to replace the thermal pads on the mac pro 2013 when reapplying thermal paste on the graphic cards, there is no place to order the pads. Ifixit and others seems to not have it (or I can't find it on their ordering websites).

Anyone know where to get replacements or for us "tinkerers" who knows how to invent something that works? For this, it has to be the correct material pads or it will melt and be another reason to have to stressfully take apart the unit again...

Also..understand about maybe better to go to an authorized dealer to have this done, but...when I talk to the "genius" who will do the work...I'm a little bit nervous about it. They will just watch the youtube videos also or Apple's 3 steps how to do it since probably they have not done this before and I don't want my unit to be their experimental "first time" or learning experience try, let alone probably the first time they actually seen a real mac pro 2013.

Will probably skip the graphic card thermal paste replacement until there is a way to get pad replacements.

 

[MisterAndrew]

You can order them from any supplier who is able to get genuine Apple service parts. According to Apple some of the torque specs are mandatory and others are suggested. For example, the torque specs for the GPUs and CPU riser card to the thermal core are mandatory (1.2 Nm).

 

[Snow Tiger]

When working on the Mac Pro Apple also specifies to use a 0.3 to 1.2 Nm variable torque screwdriver. It's a Wera brand. They list the tightening torques in the service manual.
[automerge]1589134841[/automerge]
Apple says the thermal pads cannot be re-used. They must be replaced. The part number for D300 is 923-00323. For D500/D700 the part number is 923-00324. They come in a pack of 4. You need 1 pack per GPU. I would advise against doing this work without Apple's instructions.

It's roughly $500 for the correct service tools to work on the CPU and GPUs so if you can find an authorized service provider that will do it for less I think that's a better option, unless you need to work on it often (or multiple units).

Wera makes very nice tools .

My tactile feedback is sensitive enough and muscle memory from performing so many similar operations extensive enough , that I don't need to use torque drivers .

It is possible for DIYers to grab the official APN set of replacement GPU thermal pads for the MP6,1 , but they rarely need to be replaced unless damaged during component disassembly . At any rate , if I need to replace any gap TIM in a System I'll pull the materials from a hermetically sealed general inventory bin of gap materials . These materials are not specifically for any particular component , but are organized by size , etc . From large 300mm x 210mm sheets to 15mm x 15mm individual pads . They are further organized by thickness , shore hardness and thermal conductivity rating . Before application , I usually have to cut them with an x-acto knife to a very specific size . So , almost all thermal gap materials I use are custom made at time of need . It saves a lot of money as this stuff is more affordable in bulk and also helps to ensure product freshness .

In my shop , the general rule of thumb with Systems :

Traditional gap materials :

Voltage regulator gap TIM is 3M made with a TC rating of 1 W/m-k .
Vram and M.2 SSD gap TIM is Laird made with a TC rating of 3 to 4 W/m-K .
Overclocked or high performance components TIM are Fujipoly made with a TC rating of 7-17 W/m-k .

Experimental gap materials :

gap TIM is Panasonic soft PGS ( Pyrolytic Graphite Sheet ) with a TC rating of 20-28 W/m-k .

 

[loby]

Snow Tiger, sound like you know your trade! Thanks again for the info.

I went ahead and changed out my 6-Core CPU with a used 12-Core last night (took some time). Glad I did it.

The thermal paste was so dried out that it just flaked off with very minimal cleaning need. I had noticed higher temperatures with a few "free" apps over the past year (probably not accurate readings, but gives a general reading and good enough for free apps), but nothing to cause a concern (I thought). "If" I did not do this I would have a bag (or trash can) of hurt soon...

During installation, there were a few "hiccups" and issues...including a bolt on a bracket of the CPU un-attaching and had the talked about black tamper proof stickers over the CPU screws (that ifixit does not show on their video) showed up..along with a few other minor challenges along the way...but overall, the process went well.

If someone is faint of heart to do this procedure...proceed with caution. I am ok with the challenges and took the risk, including enjoying the adventure...and it paid off indeed!

The Mac Pro 2013 is something to behold! I marveled at "looking" at the inners while taking it apart (probably is why I took so long to do it... Amazed at the complexity, design and the logical thought behind it... Too bad Apple gave up on it.

I also decided to not do anything with the graphic cards right now to make sure there are no issues after so I would know generally what or where if any issues came or come along..

I applied a "very thin" layer of Arctic MX-4 thermal compound and hope that it was enough. I was taught years back to "only" apply a very thin layer and that is all that is really "suppose" to be applied if I can remember correctly. Not like "most" of the videos shown on youtube or articles I have read or seen recently... Every video I watched does the opposite and cakes the thermal paste on.

Given that Arctic states on its package that the compound does not need replacing for at least 8 years, If I put too little on the CPU, I should at least be good for about 2 years (or a little more) and would reapply it again if needed. Again, I hope I am correct in my theory? I ONLY applied the thermal paste on the CPU and NOT the heat sink (as I was taught long ago to do). Hope I am correct...

Results: Currently, the Mac Pro 2013 is running VERY cool...watching the temperatures it is running 10c LOWER or more than before I did anything, its humming at 56c to 65c on basic or moderate tasks after measuring the CPU temperature with the free app "FANNY". Not sure how accurate it is..but the unit is DEFINITELY running cooler than before regardless.

Surprisingly, it looks like the GPUs are running cooler as well on normal tasks. I think after doing a good dust cleaning while the unit was apart helped, the unit overall is running cooler to my delight.

I thought since the CPU's thermal paste was completely dry and flaky, it would be obvious that the GPU thermal paste would also be dry since all the talk about the unit running hot GPUs and all of the other issues with the unit...but given the temperature readings and after dust cleaning the unit, the GPUs look like they are ok for now? idle time is in the 30c for the GPU and just normal or so use so far peaks around 47c. Looks like currently they are ok.

I have not tested it yet on a FCPX project, but guessing by the results currently, I should be also pleased with the results.

Conclusion: I would have had to replace the thermal paste on the CPU REGARDLESS if I swopped out the CPUs or not...this concerns me...since the unit was purchased from Apple close to 4 years ago (and almost one year after extended Apple Care expiration).

If I did not do this...eventually I would start to have issues with my unit JUST after four years after directly buying from Apple...

My usage on the unit: I would say moderate video processing and editing (no 4K or over pushing on the unit) with the 6-Core, so I was surprised at the state of the thermal paste after just close to 4 years of use...

Again, I am soooOOOO glad I decided to take the risk and do this. Saved the unit, it is running fast and cooler, just like a new system (maybe better than when I got it).

To Snow Tiger: When and/or "If" I decide to do the procedure for the graphic cards, it sounds like you have a Tech shop or are a manufacturing plant etc. or other. Any way to order some of the material for the GPU thermal pads from you and cut the pads to shape myself? I have no idea where to get/order some of the material (looked around on the internet and came up empty). If not, do you know somewhere where I could buy the material and also what exactly should I ask for? Currently, I am working out of the U.S., so I would purchase and ship it to my residence in the states and pick it up when I visit (unless I can find it somewhere in my locations).

I would prefer not to get stuck if I take off the graphic cards and then notice also I need to replace the thermal pads (risk)... I can take this conversation offline if you would prefer and/or are able to help. No problem if you do not want to, You have already help greatly! Especially not having to tell my wife I have to buy another computer! Saved me from having to sleep on the couch for some nights

Glad there are still some knowledgable people on this forum that honestly assist others!
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Wera makes very nice tools .

My tactile feedback is sensitive enough and muscle memory from performing so many similar operations extensive enough , that I don't need to use torque drivers .

It is possible for DIYers to grab the official APN set of replacement GPU thermal pads for the MP6,1 , but they rarely need to be replaced unless damaged during component disassembly . At any rate , if I need to replace any gap TIM in a System I'll pull the materials from a hermetically sealed general inventory bin of gap materials . These materials are not specifically for any particular component , but are organized by size , etc . From large 300mm x 210mm sheets to 15mm x 15mm individual pads . They are further organized by thickness , shore hardness and thermal conductivity rating . Before application , I usually have to cut them with an x-acto knife to a very specific size . So , almost all thermal gap materials I use are custom made at time of need . It saves a lot of money as this stuff is more affordable in bulk and also helps to ensure product freshness .

In my shop , the general rule of thumb with Systems :

Traditional gap materials :

Voltage regulator gap TIM is 3M made with a TC rating of 1 W/m-k .
Vram and M.2 SSD gap TIM is Laird made with a TC rating of 3 to 4 W/m-K .
Overclocked or high performance components TIM are Fujipoly made with a TC rating of 7-17 W/m-k .

Experimental gap materials :

gap TIM is Panasonic soft PGS ( Pyrolytic Graphite Sheet ) with a TC rating of 20-28 W/m-k .

Just ask a company for a (small) sheet of this? The company should know what I am asking? But, not sure who to ask...sorry I'm an amateur.

 

[loby]

You can order them from any supplier who is able to get genuine Apple service parts. According to Apple some of the torque specs are mandatory and others are suggested. For example, the torque specs for the GPUs and CPU riser card to the thermal core are mandatory (1.2 Nm).

Do you know any suppliers that would be able to order Apple service parts and sell to the general public?

 

[MisterAndrew]

Do you know any suppliers that would be able to order Apple service parts and sell to the general public?

Well a few online stores pop up if you enter the part number in Google search. I don't know if those stores sell new parts or ones salvaged from used machines. Maybe it would be best to call some authorized repair providers.

 

[loby]

How stupid of me...sometimes make it harder than it is. I did what you said and it came up with some options. duh.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Snow Tiger]

Sources of thermal gap materials are Digi-key and Mouser in the States .

The companies that make quality materials are 3M , Laird , Fujipoly and Panasonic .

You'll need to carefully measure the factory gap material , especially thickness . Obtain a decent caliper .

Some component manufacturers use gap materials of unusual thickness ( like 0.625 mm ) . Due to fine tolerances , you want to replace with a pad of exact thickness .

You have a lot of choices for models . And you can get them in pre-cut small pads or large sheets .

For GPUs , a W/m-K rating of 3 or 4 is good , keep the shore hardness on the low side . Verify the gap is safe to use on PCBs . They usually are .

Thermal gap materials last a long time and rarely need to be replaced . I almost never need to replace cMP gap materials and these machines are much older than yours . A major exception is the 2009 Dual Processor CPU Tray Heatsink gap material and that is replaced only because of upgrades to the processors .

They might need to be replaced if they are thin and break during a component disassembly . You should not re-use damaged thermal gap materials as you cannot guarantee they will exhibit the proper thickness once the component has been reassembled ( i.e. it might accidentally fold upon itself and double it's thickness , which is very bad ) .

Apple traditionally does not use thermal paste on the CPUs that lasts very long . 3 - 5 years is common for their higher powered Systems . A rule of thumb is the lower end configurations last longer before required servicing . I first learned this in the PMG4 era . A big part of the problem is Apple's preference for quiet Systems as opposed to thermally cool Systems . This is accomplished by lowering the system fan speeds below what they need to be to cool properly . Steve Jobs had very sensitive hearing and now Apple has as a part of its subconscious culture a compulsion for quiet products .

Fun fact : a lot of those dead Macs on eBay actually only need to be torn down , cleaned and all thermal areas with heatsinks re-thermal pasted with something decent ( MX4 ) . They usually boot right up .

Xeons are hard to kill . They have robust ESD guards , top bin quality and thermal control circuitry that throttles performance and shuts the processor down if it over temps . This is independent of System safeties . The vast majority of Xeons for sale on eBay are working .

 

[loby]

Got mine from Newegg for about $350 total. Seems solid so far.

Server grade CPUs usually means to me tough all day, all night - never turning off kind of CPU, and was why I thought to take the risk and buy the only $299-iish 12-Core CPU that I could find (CPUs at that caliber should be tough.

I was a little concerned considering the price and thought maybe there was something wrong It...but it looks like it paid off for me. Usage would be Primarily for video production, so not always on or processing 24-7 (Though I pull sometimes a few days Straight without sleep to finish projects when needed

Thanks again Snow Tiger for the info. Very detailed and Much appreciated taking the time to write it.

I Liked the MX4 Paste. Much better than what I was use to years ago. Before very messy, but MX4 is easy to work with without a lot of hassle. Has a reputation for Longevity, so I am encourage that I probably will not have to dig into the unit again any time soon. Maybe tackle re-thermal-ing the GPUs eventually...but will wait awhile and see.

We reap the benefits of Steve Jobs having sensitive hearing... I like his mandatory pitch quiet must computers since I work in a quite environment doing video And audio production. Beats the old days of jet engine sounding Type computers running in closet type server rooms. Compromises On the power with throttling Yes...but dig the light to no fan sound While working. The computer fan noise was probably distracting and irritating to Jobs given his personality trait.