New SSD install help :(

[yoh65]

2010 Mac Mini


So from what i've researched and everything, i understand the steps of the install, but i keep getting mixed answers about needing the thermal sensor for the ssd.

On the HDD i took out, it had the sata connector, and the thermal sensors on the bottom, and the black plastic.

i know i'll need the sata connector, and since ssd's are entirely enclosed i won't need the black plastic that covers the circuit board, but the thermal sensor is what's confusing me.

On the original stock hdd, there was a sticker on the bottom that the thermal sensor went on top of, is the sticker needed or was that just a sticker?

And will the thermal sensor be able to read the temperture of the ssd, or is the thermal sensor just for hdds?

ALSO, if i need the thermal sensor still, is there any type of adhesive i can add more to the thermal sensor sticky side so it had a better stick to the ssd, the hdd had the black plastic covering the thermal so it stayed in place, but the ssd will not, or is there a particular type of tape i will need to tape the sensor in place?

Thank you in advance!

 

[S.B.G]

The thermal sensor is there to gauge the HDD temp and run the fan. You can just stick it to the SSD with some tape and leave it be. Then you might want to use smcfancontrol and set the HDD fan speed to a nominal sped dog maybe 1100 to 1400 rpms.

If the sensor is disconnected, the fan will probably run at full rpm thinking that there is a heat problem.

 

[yoh65]

The thermal sensor is there to gauge the HDD temp and run the fan. You can just stick it to the SSD with some tape and leave it be. Then you might want to use smcfancontrol and set the HDD fan speed to a nominal sped dog maybe 1100 to 1400 rpms.

If the sensor is disconnected, the fan will probably run at full rpm thinking that there is a heat problem.

Any particular type in mind, one that can withstand being close to heat so it doesnt melt. I was considering electrical tape, but that helps conductivity, not at all with heat so it can still melt.

 

[S.B.G]

Any particular type in mind, one that can withstand being close to heat so it doesnt melt. I was considering electrical tape, but that helps conductivity, not at all with heat so it can still melt.

I think electrical would be fine. It's not going to ever get so hot that it'll melt. If it does, you've got bigger problems than that.

 

[yoh65]

I think electrical would be fine. It's not going to ever get so hot that it'll melt. If it does, you've got bigger problems than that.

lol, ok.

in the picture shown, the black plastic is covering the thermal sensor completely, should i do the same for my ssd?, or only cover the wire going along the ssd, hdd in the picture shown

And my final question, the ssd i'm getting is 7 mm, and the original was 9.5, but i'm getting a spacer as well, but i'm worried the sata cable will get in the way, is there a work around?

 

[S.B.G]

lol, ok.

in the picture shown, the black plastic is covering the thermal sensor completely, should i do the same for my ssd?, or only cover the wire going along the ssd, hdd in the picture shown.

Yeah, I'd probably do it up the same as best I could to match how it was originally.

And my final question, the ssd i'm getting is 7 mm, and the original was 9.5, but i'm getting a spacer as well, but i'm worried the sata cable will get in the way, is there a work around?

That I'm not sure about. I've never worked on a mini before and am drawing from my experience in doing this on my iMac. But I'm sure you'll use your best judgment when the time comes.

You might want to give iFixit.com a look for some pointers and great photos.

Good luck!

 

[drsox]

lol, ok.

in the picture shown, the black plastic is covering the thermal sensor completely, should i do the same for my ssd?, or only cover the wire going along the ssd, hdd in the picture shown

Image


And my final question, the ssd i'm getting is 7 mm, and the original was 9.5, but i'm getting a spacer as well, but i'm worried the sata cable will get in the way, is there a work around?

Don't think it matters if the SSD is in the position nearest to the fan (top as it is being worked on). As long as the side pin supports fit in the mounting holes then you are OK - not even sure if the spacer is needed (I've never put one on and all my SSDs have been 7mm)

 

[yoh65]

Yeah, I'd probably do it up the same as best I could to match how it was originally.



That I'm not sure about. I've never worked on a mini before and am drawing from my experience in doing this on my iMac. But I'm sure you'll use your best judgment when the time comes.

You might want to give iFixit.com a look for some pointers and great photos.

Good luck!

Alright, i'll do my best, thanks for the consistent replies

Don't think it matters if the SSD is in the position nearest to the fan (top as it is being worked on). As long as the side pin supports fit in the mounting holes then you are OK - not even sure if the spacer is needed (I've never put one on and all my SSDs have been 7mm)

alright, thanks for the personal experience

 

[S.B.G]

Alright, i'll do my best, thanks for the consistent replies

alright, thanks for the personal experience

Good luck, do let us know how it turns out.

 

[yoh65]

BAD news already, i'm doing the removal of the old hdd and my bottom fan screw is stripped ( i didn't do it, i just realized it was stripped)

Now i have no idea how to unscrew this t6 torx if the torx screwdriver i have wont work, any ideas?

 

[AxoNeuron]

BAD news already, i'm doing the removal of the old hdd and my bottom fan screw is stripped ( i didn't do it, i just realized it was stripped)

Now i have no idea how to unscrew this t6 torx if the torx screwdriver i have wont work, any ideas?

How is it stripped exactly? You can't just pull it out? Perhaps a magnetic screw driver

 

[S.B.G]

BAD news already, i'm doing the removal of the old hdd and my bottom fan screw is stripped ( i didn't do it, i just realized it was stripped)

Now i have no idea how to unscrew this t6 torx if the torx screwdriver i have wont work, any ideas?

Check out this iFixit.com guide for getting a stripped screw from a Mac mini. Hopefully it can help you out.

 

[yoh65]

I tried everything, it's stripped so badly it barely has a nub to grip the head of the torx..

Now i have a 600$ paper weight :'(

When i reassembled everything the mac began beeping, checked the ram and all the reassembly process, so even more bad news.


Question, there's 3 screws on the fan, the top two, and bottom one. If the bottom one isn't removed, the logic board wont budge, even if you remove the logic board screws?

 

[drsox]

I tried everything, it's stripped so badly it barely has a nub to grip the head of the torx..

Now i have a 600$ paper weight :'(

When i reassembled everything the mac began beeping, checked the ram and all the reassembly process, so even more bad news.


Question, there's 3 screws on the fan, the top two, and bottom one. If the bottom one isn't removed, the logic board wont budge, even if you remove the logic board screws?

According to the guide, the top two of the fan screws unscrew but the bottom one just lifts off. I had a similar problem with a 2010 Mini and I had to use two pairs of pincer pliers to get hold of the third screw. In the end I broke the fan cable. This problem was caused by the previous owner using too much force when reassembling after un-installing his SSD.

Have you tried holding the third screw at its mid point with pliers and unscrewing the top part ? Does this third screw move at all ? Are you sure it doesn't just lift out even if it's still attached to the fan ?

Maybe you can post a pic of the problem area ?

 

[yoh65]

According to the guide, the top two of the fan screws unscrew but the bottom one just lifts off. I had a similar problem with a 2010 Mini and I had to use two pairs of pincer pliers to get hold of the third screw. In the end I broke the fan cable. This problem was caused by the previous owner using too much force when reassembling after un-installing his SSD.

Have you tried holding the third screw at its mid point with pliers and unscrewing the top part ? Does this third screw move at all ? Are you sure it doesn't just lift out even if it's still attached to the fan ?

Maybe you can post a pic of the problem area ?

i figured out i can remove the fan, without removing that third screw, but now that screw stays in there (because it's stripped beyond removal/repair), But when i try to remove the logic board after following all the steps only the left side will come loose, but not the right side. no matter how much force i apply the right side won't budge, so my only guess would be that, the third fan screw i didn't remove is holding the logic board still in place. And now my computer is making that dreaded beeping noise at the boot up of reassembly. I fear i may have damaged the logic board when trying to remove it.

 

[S.B.G]

i figured out i can remove the fan, without removing that third screw, but now that screw stays in there (because it's stripped beyond removal/repair), But when i try to remove the logic board after following all the steps only the left side will come loose, but not the right side. no matter how much force i apply the right side won't budge, so my only guess would be that, the third fan screw i didn't remove is holding the logic board still in place. And now my computer is making that dreaded beeping noise at the boot up of reassembly. I fear i may have damaged the logic board when trying to remove it.

Did you check the RAM? Sometimes the beeping is an indication that the RAM chips aren't seated properly. Did you take them out or bump them while working on it and maybe they're loose?

 

[yoh65]

Did you check the RAM? Sometimes the beeping is an indication that the RAM chips aren't seated properly. Did you take them out or bump them while working on it and maybe they're loose?

i removed them during the attempt at the hdd install, and they're seated correctly, i made sure to treat them with care and to put them in properly.

 

[drsox]

i figured out i can remove the fan, without removing that third screw, but now that screw stays in there (because it's stripped beyond removal/repair), But when i try to remove the logic board after following all the steps only the left side will come loose, but not the right side. no matter how much force i apply the right side won't budge, so my only guess would be that, the third fan screw i didn't remove is holding the logic board still in place. And now my computer is making that dreaded beeping noise at the boot up of reassembly. I fear i may have damaged the logic board when trying to remove it.

OK. So you can get to the stage where you can insert the logic board puller and can move part of the logic board. I had this problem also. What you need to do is to push the logic board all the way back into the housing and then press simultaneously on the extreme left and right hand sides of the logic board. This will release any inner catches. Then pull on the puller.

IME never use force when working inside the Mini - it only makes things worse. If things are stuck, it's for a reason.

I think beeping is a RAM issue. Here's a beep list :

1 beep = no RAM installed
2 beeps = incompatible RAM types
3 beeps = no good banks
4 beeps = no good boot images in the boot ROM (and/or bad sys config block)
5 beeps = processor is not usable

Try reseating both sticks and only using one stick in either socket. RAM may look like it's in properly but sometimes it's not.

 

[yoh65]

OK. So you can get to the stage where you can insert the logic board puller and can move part of the logic board. I had this problem also. What you need to do is to push the logic board all the way back into the housing and then press simultaneously on the extreme left and right hand sides of the logic board. This will release any inner catches. Then pull on the puller.

IME never use force when working inside the Mini - it only makes things worse. If things are stuck, it's for a reason.

I think beeping is a RAM issue. Here's a beep list :

1 beep = no RAM installed
2 beeps = incompatible RAM types
3 beeps = no good banks
4 beeps = no good boot images in the boot ROM (and/or bad sys config block)
5 beeps = processor is not usable

Try reseating both sticks and only using one stick in either socket. RAM may look like it's in properly but sometimes it's not.

Can you explain what you mean by extreme left, and extreme right.

As for the beeping, the mac mini will beep and show the stanby light up, then pause, then beep and light up, and it keeps doing this continuously.

It's like this: beep, 1,2,3,4,5 beep, 1,2,3,4,5 beep, etc, etc

 

[drsox]

Can you explain what you mean by extreme left, and extreme right.

As for the beeping, the mac mini will beep and show the stanby light up, then pause, then beep and light up, and it keeps doing this continuously.

It's like this: beep, 1,2,3,4,5 beep, 1,2,3,4,5 beep, etc, etc

If you look at the back of the Mini, there is a black section where all the I/O ports are located. This black section curves slightly at each end around the edges of the metal housing. If you press with your left finger on the extreme left edge that curves at the same time as with your right finger on the extreme right edge, this releases anything that might be catching on the logic board. See step 16 in this guide : https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac+Mini+Mid+2010+Hard+Drive+Replacement/3113.

As to your beeping, as there is only one beep, then I think the Mini thinks there is no RAM installed. Take both sticks out and put them in making sure they are ALL the way in. I had this with one of the sticks - the system thought there was only one installed. It looked like both were installed but one was not pushed in far enough.

 

[Fishrrman]

OP wrote above:
[[ I tried everything, it's stripped so badly it barely has a nub to grip the head of the torx..
Now i have a 600$ paper weight :'(
When i reassembled everything the mac began beeping, checked the ram and all the reassembly process, so even more bad news. ]]

Folks, you're going to start throwing tomatoes at me, but I have to say it:

Here's yet one more post from someone who thought he could do the internal installation on a Mini, then got inside, and then ran into trouble.

If the OP had bought either a USB3 enclosure that supports UASP, or a USB/SATA docking station, he would have been up and running without the hassle in the time it takes to "dupe" the internal to the external drive using CarbonCopyCloner.

Instead, he's got a broken Mini that will take some work to get running again.

Which might have been the better choice?

 

[r0k]

Sorry I'm getting to the thread so late. I upgraded RAM and HDD to SSD in my wife's 2010 Mac mini. I followed the directions from iFixit exactly. Pulling the motherboard required inserting objects in the holes in the motherboard (step 15) and pulling rearward. It only moved about 1/4 inch but that was enough to allow me to get the old HDD out and the new SSD back in. Needless to say I had the mini already booting from the new SSD via a SATA to USB cable long before I opened the cover. I would never put a new HDD or SSD in a Mac without first booting from it externally for "a while."

I would not try to move the logic board with one of the fan screws still installed. Since they are 11mm long, the go through the logic board and into the aluminum case below. You will need a pair of "vice grips" to grab the stripped screw and remove it. You would do well to buy a new screw when you are putting your Mac mini back together again. Since you never got the fan out, why are you still trying to remove things? Focus on seating the RAM so you can boot up.

Which beep pattern are you getting again? If it's a RAM problem, it's pretty simple to pull off the bottom cover and re-seat the RAM. Also try putting your original RAM back in. It's better to have 4GB of working RAM than 8 or 16 GB of Kernel-panicky non-working RAM.

 

[drsox]

OP wrote above:
[[ I tried everything, it's stripped so badly it barely has a nub to grip the head of the torx..
Now i have a 600$ paper weight :'(
When i reassembled everything the mac began beeping, checked the ram and all the reassembly process, so even more bad news. ]]

Folks, you're going to start throwing tomatoes at me, but I have to say it:

Here's yet one more post from someone who thought he could do the internal installation on a Mini, then got inside, and then ran into trouble.

If the OP had bought either a USB3 enclosure that supports UASP, or a USB/SATA docking station, he would have been up and running without the hassle in the time it takes to "dupe" the internal to the external drive using CarbonCopyCloner.

Instead, he's got a broken Mini that will take some work to get running again.

Which might have been the better choice?

Doesn't work like this if you want a fusion drive. Otherwise you're not wrong - apart from 10% in Read/Write rates.

 

[brdeveloper]

lol, ok.

in the picture shown, the black plastic is covering the thermal sensor completely, should i do the same for my ssd?, or only cover the wire going along the ssd, hdd in the picture shown

Image


And my final question, the ssd i'm getting is 7 mm, and the original was 9.5, but i'm getting a spacer as well, but i'm worried the sata cable will get in the way, is there a work around?

I did a SSD upgrade on my Mini the last month. I had plastic spudgers for helping removing connectors without needing to pull wires, preventing from messing the cables. In recard to the screws, I could remove most of them with an iPhone repair kit which provided torxes and philips screwdrivers of various sizes. However, I still needed an allen key which I used to adjust my Fender guitar bridge. Also, there was a couple of screws which I removed with spliers. If I'm not wrong they were the logic board ones.

I ripped the HDD cover a little bit, so I applied isolating tape to make the sensors stay fixed on the SSD surface. The cooler runs silent as before installing the drive. Fortunately, I didn't faced any of the issues with sensors and cables that some people have when dealing with Minis.

 

[iPhil]

On stickiness of tape -- side of this thread

Scotch tape will lose its stickiness @ 212 degrees F while electric tape melt point @ 800 C = roughly 1500 degrees F... Thermal range of a mini before shut down is around 210 degrees F ....