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Illuminated

macrumors 65816
Original poster
Sep 25, 2008
1,081
358
Denver
So while I was filming a promo video, I decided to putz around with some settings on my Canon 6D. I tried out the SCN setting, and realized I could shoot in monochrome (B&W). I love the effect, but I hate how it's in auto, not manual. I shoot 99% of the time in manual mode because I shoot concerts.

Is there way to save the SCN settings (monochrome, no burst) as a custom function? At shows, I like to use my fisheye for crowd portraits, and the monochrome is a cool touch, and will save me a lot of time in post processing.
 
So while I was filming a promo video, I decided to putz around with some settings on my Canon 6D. I tried out the SCN setting, and realized I could shoot in monochrome (B&W). I love the effect, but I hate how it's in auto, not manual. I shoot 99% of the time in manual mode because I shoot concerts.

Is there way to save the SCN settings (monochrome, no burst) as a custom function? At shows, I like to use my fisheye for crowd portraits, and the monochrome is a cool touch, and will save me a lot of time in post processing.

Keep shooting in raw and put in the effort to process to B&W in post-production. There's a thread here that covers everything that others will probably raise here as to reasons NOT to shoot with the in-camera monochrome setting.

If you want to make it a simple and easy process, play with Lightroom's Presets or NIK's Silver Efex, or Topaz's B&W module.

Good B&W does not come out of camera, except for the Leica M-Monochrom, which has a specially designed sensor that records luminance levels.
 
Keep shooting in raw and put in the effort to process to B&W in post-production. There's a thread here that covers everything that others will probably raise here as to reasons NOT to shoot with the in-camera monochrome setting.

If you want to make it a simple and easy process, play with Lightroom's Presets or NIK's Silver Efex, or Topaz's B&W module.

Good B&W does not come out of camera, except for the Leica M-Monochrom, which has a specially designed sensor that records luminance levels.

I always edit in LR5, and do black and white on a lot of photos, without using those presets. I'm gonna mess around with the in camera monochrome in LR5 and see what the difference is. It was fun yesterday to mess around with it on the camera. Didn't really have to "think" about taking photos. Just find the angle and go. I got to enjoy the actual event for the first time in quite awhile. This might be used a lot for when i'm lazy at shows or want to just take crowd photos.
 
I always edit in LR5, and do black and white on a lot of photos, without using those presets. I'm gonna mess around with the in camera monochrome in LR5 and see what the difference is. It was fun yesterday to mess around with it on the camera. Didn't really have to "think" about taking photos. Just find the angle and go. I got to enjoy the actual event for the first time in quite awhile. This might be used a lot for when i'm lazy at shows or want to just take crowd photos.

There's a major compromise taking place with your camera deciding the final jpeg output in B&W, as you don't get a raw B&W image. You lose control of how you want certain colours to appear as they render to B&W. It's predetermined by the camera/chip settings, where it's basically taking the RGB information and making a pre-formatted merge of that information. You can't do much with it afterwards. If you use the B&W colour controls, light balance and the colour shadow controls (right down the bottom of the controls section) that are built in to Lightroom you will be able to achieve a much better output. The greatest majority of my B&W images are processed in Lightroom, without the use of add-ons or presets. It's only where I need to break an image apart to control different sections in different ways that I move over to Photoshop, for the use of masking/layers and the non-destructive editing available there.

I have the 6D also and have no idea whether this is possible or not, but in your situation taking hundreds of images at a concert, I'd be tempted to shoot so that for every image taken there is a B&W jpeg and a raw file created too. This way you have more options for editing later. Some of the out of camera jpegs may be acceptable for you and others may require some twiddling.
 
There's a major compromise taking place with your camera deciding the final jpeg output in B&W, as you don't get a raw B&W image. You lose control of how you want certain colours to appear as they render to B&W. It's predetermined by the camera/chip settings, where it's basically taking the RGB information and making a pre-formatted merge of that information. You can't do much with it afterwards. If you use the B&W colour controls, light balance and the colour shadow controls (right down the bottom of the controls section) that are built in to Lightroom you will be able to achieve a much better output. The greatest majority of my B&W images are processed in Lightroom, without the use of add-ons or presets. It's only where I need to break an image apart to control different sections in different ways that I move over to Photoshop, for the use of masking/layers and the non-destructive editing available there.

I have the 6D also and have no idea whether this is possible or not, but in your situation taking hundreds of images at a concert, I'd be tempted to shoot so that for every image taken there is a B&W jpeg and a raw file created too. This way you have more options for editing later. Some of the out of camera jpegs may be acceptable for you and others may require some twiddling.


I actually found a way to make it black and white in RAW in manual mode. It's under picture style.

This should work for me I think. Gonna give it a shot.
 
I actually found a way to make it black and white in RAW in manual mode. It's under picture style.

This should work for me I think. Gonna give it a shot.

Yeah the picture styles should work in every mode you have the camera in. Also, I’m sure you are aware but when shooting raw the picture presets are not applied to the final image like they are with JPEG so are only really used for reference.
 
Yeah the picture styles should work in every mode you have the camera in. Also, I’m sure you are aware but when shooting raw the picture presets are not applied to the final image like they are with JPEG so are only really used for reference.

I figured that one out. I guess i won't be saving time in post processing then.
 
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