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FRVRandAFTR

macrumors member
Original poster
Oct 30, 2015
59
39
I'm a tech kinda guy who's been interested in photography for a while but honestly I've been too intimidated to take the plunge. I've been reading articles for months now, looking at posts in this forum lately, and constantly trying to keep up with The Verge camera articles while I build up the courage to take the plunge. Since I don't have a personal Becca from The Verge to bounce questions off of, I wondered if some of you kind people would mind giving a newbie some starting tips. I'm starting out with the fundaments slowly, one piece at a time. Honestly it seems overwhelming but with baby steps I think I can comfortably ease into it and see if it's a hobby for me.

I have decided to start by deciding on only the body of the camera to start out with as step one.

Would anyone have some advice for someone looking for the following in a camera?

  • mirrorless
  • Canon/Nikon/Sony brand (it's my understanding that these are usually regarded as the best overall but just as importantly can interchange legacy DSLR lenses to be used on the mirrorless models and apparently even have adapters to use each others lenses? wow...)
  • I couldn't care less about video of any kind, I would sacrifice any video features for better camera features and a better value
  • best value/bang for my buck (be it a brand new model or much older model)
  • an emphasis on feature to combat blur as much as possible (ISO? shutter speed? aperture?)
  • any features you, as professionals, would advise for the potential to take some great photos (any and all comments welcome and appreciated)
With that in mind, does anyone have a recommendation on a camera that sounds like it would fit the bill of what I'm looking for?

Much appreciated.
 

ssmed

macrumors 6502a
Sep 28, 2009
885
423
UK
Just buy a budget system full frame mirrorless system camera such as the Nikon Z 5 24-200 Kit (or Canon/Fuji/Sony) and go and enjoy taking lots of pictures. Make sure you have a good cataloguing / filing system and post-processing software (e.g. Capture One, Affinity Photo 2 or Adobe Lightroom/Photoshop).

Photography is not my primary role, but I use the camera every day in the clinic as well as in my personal life.Do not underestimate having a camera which is available and easy to use. The choice of manufacturer is difficult. I started with Nikon many years ago as the flash options at the time were far better. In my experience, don't rush to do weddings unless you want to fill your stress bucket to the rim.
 
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r.harris1

macrumors 68020
Feb 20, 2012
2,210
12,757
Denver, Colorado, USA
I won't recommend a brand since they're all fantastic at this point and all produce great image quality. People won't be able to tell what camera you shoot with when looking at your photographs so you're the one that has to be happy :). What I would recommend, if possible, is to get your hands physically on some at a local camera store. The main differences will be ergonomics, including menus, button layouts and the like. I think most have adapters for older lenses (and you can also purchase third-party).

I think mirrorless will future-proof you somewhat (whatever that means) and there are generally different price ranges available. Whatever you get, learn the fundamentals around ISO, shutter speed and aperture. Many modern cameras will have stabilization in the body and/or in certain lenses that will account for using slower shutter speeds and which would normally cause shake aka blur. But generally, keeping the shutter speed up is going to help. But that can affect ISO (higher), and aperture will also play into shutter speed and therefore ISO. Most cameras will have "auto-everything" and because these same cameras perform well at higher ISO, it's reasonably straight forward to get the shot you want. I rarely shoot with "auto-everything" because I want more creative control, but it can be a good place to start to see what's really happening. Higher ISO wreaks havoc on dynamic range and color quality and despite AI-based software, the results for fixing high ISO-based noise can still be a compromise.

While most modern cameras have amazing autofocus, be comfortable manually focusing too (at least later). What camera you get will ultimately come down to your budget and I wouldn't discount used gear. KEH and MPB are reputable companies and I've used them myself.

While the camera body is something we all obsess over, it's really the glass that's the key so I'd shove more budget to glass than the body, if it comes down to choices. Talking of which, what focal lengths do you think you'd like to shoot? That's a decision too.

One thing I've seen (and I'm as guilty as anyone) is that people buy a body with amazing features but don't spend any time learning it. They assume the camera will always make the right decision - the right shutter speed, the right ISO, the right aperture or the right focus point. Make sure you're controlling the camera, not the other way around :). The only way to do that is to learn your system, in particular the auto-focus capabilities. They all have quirks and nuances.

The other skill to learn, especially if you stick with photography, is the art of post processing with your chosen tool (Lightroom, FastRawViewer, Affinity, DxO, Capture One, etc, etc). Usually this means you should be shooting your images in the camera's raw format. Doing so lets you have the ultimate creative control over the results of your work. A lot of times, people just starting out might consider just shooting in JPEG and while that can be convenient, it becomes limiting (to me anyway) pretty quickly. Most cameras allow you to shoot both. Consider JPEG a finished product that someone else has decided on the outcome and raw format lets you be in control of the outcome.

Lots to consider! But...learn the fundamentals (ISO, shutter speed, Aperture, how they're related), learn the system (whatever camera you purchase), try handling one or more camera manufacturers in a local store if possible, and start having fun!
 

mollyc

macrumors G3
Aug 18, 2016
8,052
50,503
@r.harris1 has given excellent advice. If you were to poll all the regulars here, you'd find just about every brand of camera represented; some here are loyal to only one brand, and some of us shoot multiple brands, whether for specific needs or just for fun. There really is no bad brand out there right now.


I just wanted to add one minor thing based on one of your bullet points.

an emphasis on feature to combat blur as much as possible (ISO? shutter speed? aperture?)

Aperture is determined by your lens selection. Although most systems will set the aperture from the body and not the lens, aperture is a lens function based on how much light it lets in. All three functions mentioned in your bullet point work in tandem to combat blur. Higher end cameras will have a wider ISO range and possibly faster shutter speeds, but unless you are shooting F1 a body that has a max shutter speed of 1/8000 is fine (most mirrorless cameras have electronic shutters that you can enable for super fast SSs so this shouldn't be a big factor for you).

It can be overwhelming to narrow down a system so I understand why you'd focus on the body first, but the reality is a camera without a lens doesn't do you any good. Think about the types of things you'd like to shoot - sports, birds (these are more similar than you'd imagine photographically), still life, portrait, landscape, etc. Thinking ahead to what you plan to shoot most as you start will help you narrow down a lens selection and set your budget. Because you can get started for $1,000 or $20,000 depending on what you think you need (pro tip - you don't need as much as you think when you are starting. start small and add things over time).
 

Darmok N Jalad

macrumors 603
Sep 26, 2017
5,418
48,180
Tanagra (not really)
To me, form factor and weight are just as important. You can have the most expensive gear there is, but if it’s too bulky to take with you, then it doesn’t do you much good. Size and weight have always been factors in what I buy, that way I maximize my opportunity to take photos. From m43 up to MF, there are ILC products that take great photos.

I’m not a pro, but a pro might surprise you on their advice.
 

Fishrrman

macrumors Penryn
Feb 20, 2009
29,175
13,222
"I couldn't care less about video of any kind, I would sacrifice any video features for better camera features and a better value"

Most of the better mirrorless cameras now have video capabilities that range from very good to superb. Once you have one, you'll see this. Not much need for a "separate video camera".

Depending on your budget, in the Canon realm, take a look at both the R6mark2 and the R8. Both use the same sensor, the R6ii has a few more features.

Can't help with Nikon or SONY.

The site dpreview.com is still alive, despite amazon's announcement that it would be shut down back in April. A good place to find camera reviews, discussions, etc.
 
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Longplays

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May 30, 2023
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Do you have a friend, family or extended family that already has a mirrorless camera?

If they're inclined to help you learn the camera or lend you a lens or other accessories I'd buy the brand they're using.

You'd have someone in person to share the experience of learning and photographing with instead of MR.

I use Canon but at this point in time all the brands are equitably as good in terms of tech, bodies, lenses, accessories, after sales support, etc

As a hobbyist a lot of concerns of pros/deep pocketed hobbyist would not apply to you.

Also the video feature improves the economies of scale of the mirrorless that helps lowers the cost of the camera.

Worldwide under 4.09 million mirrorless bodies were shipped in 2022.
 
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FRVRandAFTR

macrumors member
Original poster
Oct 30, 2015
59
39
Thank you all for the very nice, detailed replies. It was extremely helpful. I settled on an entry level mirrorless Nikon and I couldn’t be happier with the decision. I researched lenses and found a highly rated one that seems like it will be a great all purpose starter lens, which I was just as concerned about deciding on as the body itself.

I’m planning to do a lot of research on the features and play with every button and option so I can get the most out of it and really personalize it.

I’ve decided to shoot exclusively in RAW and Lightroom has been the plan for edits since I use other Adobe software quite a bit. I’ve also thought about learning Affinity at the same time since it seems to be growing in popularity and is aggressively priced. Any input on those or other suggestions are more than welcome.

Also, any advice on personal experience with third party Nikon Z Mount lens brands or specific models would be very appreciated. Also, I’m looking at an affordable highly rated adapter for Canon ES lenses so suggestions on the best in quality/value would be awesome.

Thanks again to all of you.
 

AlaskaMoose

macrumors 68040
Apr 26, 2008
3,585
13,429
Alaska
Thank you all for the very nice, detailed replies. It was extremely helpful. I settled on an entry level mirrorless Nikon and I couldn’t be happier with the decision. I researched lenses and found a highly rated one that seems like it will be a great all purpose starter lens, which I was just as concerned about deciding on as the body itself.

I’m planning to do a lot of research on the features and play with every button and option so I can get the most out of it and really personalize it.

I’ve decided to shoot exclusively in RAW and Lightroom has been the plan for edits since I use other Adobe software quite a bit. I’ve also thought about learning Affinity at the same time since it seems to be growing in popularity and is aggressively priced. Any input on those or other suggestions are more than welcome.

Also, any advice on personal experience with third party Nikon Z Mount lens brands or specific models would be very appreciated. Also, I’m looking at an affordable highly rated adapter for Canon ES lenses so suggestions on the best in quality/value would be awesome.

Thanks again to all of you.
Perhaps you are referring to an adaptor for Canon EF lenses? Also, with Canon cameras an adaptor is only needed to mount EF, EF-S, and a few other Canon lenses to the Canon R-series mirrorless cameras (R, R3, R5, R6, and R7 cameras). If this is what you are referring to, then I would choose one of the Canon EOS-R adapter. The lowest-priced one costs around $100.00. This is the one I use to "adapt" a Tokina EF lens, plus several other EF lenses to my Canon R6.
 
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mollyc

macrumors G3
Aug 18, 2016
8,052
50,503
Thank you all for the very nice, detailed replies. It was extremely helpful. I settled on an entry level mirrorless Nikon and I couldn’t be happier with the decision. I researched lenses and found a highly rated one that seems like it will be a great all purpose starter lens, which I was just as concerned about deciding on as the body itself.

I’m planning to do a lot of research on the features and play with every button and option so I can get the most out of it and really personalize it.

I’ve decided to shoot exclusively in RAW and Lightroom has been the plan for edits since I use other Adobe software quite a bit. I’ve also thought about learning Affinity at the same time since it seems to be growing in popularity and is aggressively priced. Any input on those or other suggestions are more than welcome.

Also, any advice on personal experience with third party Nikon Z Mount lens brands or specific models would be very appreciated. Also, I’m looking at an affordable highly rated adapter for Canon ES lenses so suggestions on the best in quality/value would be awesome.

Thanks again to all of you.
I shoot Nikon Z. I'm not sure how many third party lenses there are for the Z mount as Nikon wasn't sharing the mount info for quite a bit. I do know of some, but they are manual focus. I haven't looked for third party AF lenses. But it would also depend on which lens you chose as your first one with the body because it would be silly to recommend a specific lens if it is similar to the one you have already purchased. You didn't mention yet what you plan to shoot or if you chose a crop body or full frame body, all of which makes it hard to just recommend lenses. I use Nikon lenses with my Z bodies and I have some native Z mounts and some F mounts that I use the Nikon brand FTZ adapter with, and I do recommend the FTZ. Some of my F mount lenses are better on the Z cameras than they were on dSLRs.

I haven't adapted any Canon lenses to the Z but I hear good things about the Fringer converters for various mount conversions. They aren't inexpensive but they consistently get good reviews and I believe they will allow for autofocus as well, but as with anything, you'll want to see if your specific lenses are listed. Again, you've not given us a lot of info to work with, so hard to make a concrete recommendation, and I'm not sure there are any in this group using Canon lenses on Nikon bodies (although I have heard of it elsewhere, and clearly there's a desire since adapters do exist). If the Fringer is out of your budget, your best bet would be to google and read reviews and check price points.

 
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mollyc

macrumors G3
Aug 18, 2016
8,052
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Perhaps you are referring to an adaptor for Canon EF lenses? Also, with Canon cameras an adaptor is only needed to mount EF, EF-S, and a few other Canon lenses to the Canon R-series mirrorless cameras (R, R3, R5, R6, and R7 cameras). If this is what you are referring to, then I would choose one of the Canon EOS-R adapter. The lowest-priced one costs around $100.00. This is the one I use to "adapt" a Tokina EF lens, plus several other EF lenses to my Canon R6.
I believe the OP wants to use Canon lenses on a Nikon Z body.
 
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orionquest

Suspended
Mar 16, 2022
871
791
The Great White North
I believe you are overthinking this, also all the research in the world is fine, but nothing beats experience and doing stuff with your own hands. Just get out there and shoot. Once you start to figure things out you'll understand the gear better and what you want from it. Also which vendor does it more to your liking.

I dunno why you would get a Nikon body and want to use Canon lens. I have seen this before with a lot of Sony users, but not as much with Nikon. If that was your intent I would have just gone full blown Canon. Mind you I shoot all Canon so I have a bit of a preference.

You could have or still can rent gear from your local photography store. It's a great way to test out len's etc and see what works before dropping some big money on gear.

It's a fun hobby and can get expensive quickly enjoy!
 
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FRVRandAFTR

macrumors member
Original poster
Oct 30, 2015
59
39
Just buy a budget system full frame mirrorless system camera such as the Nikon Z 5 24-200 Kit (or Canon/Fuji/Sony) and go and enjoy taking lots of pictures. Make sure you have a good cataloguing / filing system and post-processing software (e.g. Capture One, Affinity Photo 2 or Adobe Lightroom/Photoshop).

Photography is not my primary role, but I use the camera every day in the clinic as well as in my personal life.Do not underestimate having a camera which is available and easy to use. The choice of manufacturer is difficult. I started with Nikon many years ago as the flash options at the time were far better. In my experience, don't rush to do weddings unless you want to fill your stress bucket to the rim.
Thank you, your comment really helped push me toward Nikon, I got the Z 5 and it was 100% the right camera for me. I ended up doing a little research and finding a a good price on a NIKKOR Z 85mm f/1.8 S so I opted for that. I just found a good deal on a NIKKOR Z 24-70mm f/4 S, so I'm going to grab that one too. I was really in my head about what to get because I'm the type of person to research the heck out of purchases, but with so many camera features I was a little overwhelmed. I just didn't want to overpay for something outside of what I would extent to be my use cases as I progress an learn but I didn't want to invest in something that wasn't capable of what I wanted. The Z 5 was the perfect camera for me.
 

FRVRandAFTR

macrumors member
Original poster
Oct 30, 2015
59
39
Perhaps you are referring to an adaptor for Canon EF lenses? Also, with Canon cameras an adaptor is only needed to mount EF, EF-S, and a few other Canon lenses to the Canon R-series mirrorless cameras (R, R3, R5, R6, and R7 cameras). If this is what you are referring to, then I would choose one of the Canon EOS-R adapter. The lowest-priced one costs around $100.00. This is the one I use to "adapt" a Tokina EF lens, plus several other EF lenses to my Canon R6.

I worded that poorly. I found the adapter I like based on reviews and the Fringer EF-NZ for Canon to Nikon Lens Adapter Auto Focus Adapter Ring is what I've decided on, so I what I meant was lenses from other brands than Nikon, specially Canon I guess based on the adapter that I'm looking at that might be better quality and a better value than the Nikon options.
 

FRVRandAFTR

macrumors member
Original poster
Oct 30, 2015
59
39
I shoot Nikon Z. I'm not sure how many third party lenses there are for the Z mount as Nikon wasn't sharing the mount info for quite a bit. I do know of some, but they are manual focus. I haven't looked for third party AF lenses. But it would also depend on which lens you chose as your first one with the body because it would be silly to recommend a specific lens if it is similar to the one you have already purchased. You didn't mention yet what you plan to shoot or if you chose a crop body or full frame body, all of which makes it hard to just recommend lenses. I use Nikon lenses with my Z bodies and I have some native Z mounts and some F mounts that I use the Nikon brand FTZ adapter with, and I do recommend the FTZ. Some of my F mount lenses are better on the Z cameras than they were on dSLRs.

I haven't adapted any Canon lenses to the Z but I hear good things about the Fringer converters for various mount conversions. They aren't inexpensive but they consistently get good reviews and I believe they will allow for autofocus as well, but as with anything, you'll want to see if your specific lenses are listed. Again, you've not given us a lot of info to work with, so hard to make a concrete recommendation, and I'm not sure there are any in this group using Canon lenses on Nikon bodies (although I have heard of it elsewhere, and clearly there's a desire since adapters do exist). If the Fringer is out of your budget, your best bet would be to google and read reviews and check price points.

I appreciate the advice on Nikon non-Z Mount lenses! I read that sometimes at least it causes a black boarder around the photo that has to be removed in post? I don't remember the correct term for it. Is that always the case or for non-full frame lenses? I know my initial post was very vague. I'm planning to use it mostly for portraits, photos of people at a reasonable distance (in a large backyard or an open large room inside a building), some beach or farm scenery, and some home interiors for real estate. Lenses that can be adjusted to cut down on blur from sudden head movements in portraits would be awesome. If you have any advice on specific lenses, I'd love to hear them.
 

FRVRandAFTR

macrumors member
Original poster
Oct 30, 2015
59
39
I believe you are overthinking this, also all the research in the world is fine, but nothing beats experience and doing stuff with your own hands. Just get out there and shoot. Once you start to figure things out you'll understand the gear better and what you want from it. Also which vendor does it more to your liking.

I dunno why you would get a Nikon body and want to use Canon lens. I have seen this before with a lot of Sony users, but not as much with Nikon. If that was your intent I would have just gone full blown Canon. Mind you I shoot all Canon so I have a bit of a preference.

You could have or still can rent gear from your local photography store. It's a great way to test out len's etc and see what works before dropping some big money on gear.

It's a fun hobby and can get expensive quickly enjoy!
I way WAY overthinking and being a little dramatic lol. And I completely agree with your hands on device approach. My main reason for asking about Canon lenses was their reputation for quality (I was 99% sure I would be getting a Canon) and thought they may have some more value options with comparable or even better quality but I've found that Nikon lenses are rated extremely highly.
 

ssmed

macrumors 6502a
Sep 28, 2009
885
423
UK
Thank you, your comment really helped push me toward Nikon, I got the Z 5 and it was 100% the right camera for me. I ended up doing a little research and finding a a good price on a NIKKOR Z 85mm f/1.8 S so I opted for that. I just found a good deal on a NIKKOR Z 24-70mm f/4 S, so I'm going to grab that one too. I was really in my head about what to get because I'm the type of person to research the heck out of purchases, but with so many camera features I was a little overwhelmed. I just didn't want to overpay for something outside of what I would extent to be my use cases as I progress an learn but I didn't want to invest in something that wasn't capable of what I wanted. The Z 5 was the perfect camera for me.
I am 'stuck' with the D850 and D500, but the older 24-70 F2.8 is one of my favourite lenses despite its weight. Always seems to take nice pictures - sharp and excellent out of focus and rarely do you need to be wider/closer. I use a 105 micro mostly at work with the Nikon close-up flash system and that is a great set-up. I would love to go mirrorless - mainly for the advanced focusing, but it would be a big change and a lot of money.
 
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AlaskaMoose

macrumors 68040
Apr 26, 2008
3,585
13,429
Alaska
I worded that poorly. I found the adapter I like based on reviews and the Fringer EF-NZ for Canon to Nikon Lens Adapter Auto Focus Adapter Ring is what I've decided on, so I what I meant was lenses from other brands than Nikon, specially Canon I guess based on the adapter that I'm looking at that might be better quality and a better value than the Nikon options.
I see...that makes sense, I guess.
 

mollyc

macrumors G3
Aug 18, 2016
8,052
50,503
I appreciate the advice on Nikon non-Z Mount lenses! I read that sometimes at least it causes a black boarder around the photo that has to be removed in post? I don't remember the correct term for it. Is that always the case or for non-full frame lenses? I know my initial post was very vague. I'm planning to use it mostly for portraits, photos of people at a reasonable distance (in a large backyard or an open large room inside a building), some beach or farm scenery, and some home interiors for real estate. Lenses that can be adjusted to cut down on blur from sudden head movements in portraits would be awesome. If you have any advice on specific lenses, I'd love to hear them.


Thank you, your comment really helped push me toward Nikon, I got the Z 5 and it was 100% the right camera for me. I ended up doing a little research and finding a a good price on a NIKKOR Z 85mm f/1.8 S so I opted for that. I just found a good deal on a NIKKOR Z 24-70mm f/4 S, so I'm going to grab that one too. I was really in my head about what to get because I'm the type of person to research the heck out of purchases, but with so many camera features I was a little overwhelmed. I just didn't want to overpay for something outside of what I would extent to be my use cases as I progress an learn but I didn't want to invest in something that wasn't capable of what I wanted. The Z 5 was the perfect camera for me.


If you are using a lens designed for a crop body then yes, you will get a black vignette around your image where there is no info, and you will be forced to crop the image to a smaller size than your full sensor resolution. Most crop lenses are not as high quality either (exceptions will be made). Stick with full frame lenses.

Since you are starting with 24-70 f/4 and the 85mm you should be set for the immediate future. The 85mm is an excellent portrait lens, and one of the best Nikon has ever made, save for the Z 85mm 1.2 lens which is quite expensive. I use the 24-70 regularly and passed on the chance to upgrade it to the 2.8 version; the Z f/4 lens is quite a bit sharper than the F mount 24-70 f/2.8 it replaced and it's also a lot smaller and easier to carry. I have rarely missed the extra stop with the ISO performance of my Z6 and Z6ii. I have the 85mm as well as the 50mm 1.8 and they are all lovely lenses.

I had thought that you were moving from Canon to Nikon and wanted to keep using EF lenses; if you are starting from scratch, the Nikon Z lenses are excellent and I wouldn't bother trying to adapt Canon lenses unless you find a special vintage lens of some sort that you think you can't live without.

Lenses that can be adjusted to cut down on blur from sudden head movements in portraits would be awesome. If you have any advice on specific lenses, I'd love to hear them.

This is not a function of the lens, it's a function of shutter speed. I'd also recommend picking up the book Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson as a way to learn manual mode; it's clear you are excited to learn photography more in depth, and that book really breaks down the exposure triangle which I think will be key for you to learn based on some of your comments here. I moved from auto to full manual in the course of a week or so reading this book some 15 years ago. I have yet to come across a better resource for learning manual.
 
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orionquest

Suspended
Mar 16, 2022
871
791
The Great White North
I way WAY overthinking and being a little dramatic lol. And I completely agree with your hands on device approach. My main reason for asking about Canon lenses was their reputation for quality (I was 99% sure I would be getting a Canon) and thought they may have some more value options with comparable or even better quality but I've found that Nikon lenses are rated extremely highly.
I've been really happy with all my Canon gear. This includes crop and full frame bodies, with those great pro lens's. But Nikon, Sony etc wouldn't be their peers if they didn't offer the same level of quality. BTW I shoot professionally which is why I invested in all this stuff. Most of the time I am shooting with a Canon Rebel, and 24-55, 2.8 lens. Just suits my work. I get most excited about my flash, one of the best addon's.

Just to add, I choose Canon gear over the others because most of the people I knew used them, so I had some familiarity to the brand. Also I preferred the colour over Nikon, which I find has a synthetic quality, Sony wasn't really a contender then, but I've borrow or used friends of mine, and I hate the viewfinders and the colours have a red cast which I really don't like, menus suck as well.

Either way it doesn't really matter, as someone mentioned all of today's gear is top quality, and plus you have no experience to know what the difference is, until you do it's doesn't make much sense to blow money on top lens which you might not fully utilize or benefit from. But everyone's budget and spending is different, it's your money.
 
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r.harris1

macrumors 68020
Feb 20, 2012
2,210
12,757
Denver, Colorado, USA
If you are using a lens designed for a crop body then yes, you will get a black vignette around your image where there is no info, and you will be forced to crop the image to a smaller size than your full sensor resolution. Most crop lenses are not as high quality either (exceptions will be made). Stick with full frame lenses.

Since you are starting with 24-70 f/4 and the 85mm you should be set for the immediate future. The 85mm is an excellent portrait lens, and one of the best Nikon has ever made, save for the Z 85mm 1.2 lens which is quite expensive. I use the 24-70 regularly and passed on the chance to upgrade it to the 2.8 version; the Z f/4 lens is quite a bit sharper than the F mount 24-70 f/2.8 I replaced and it's also a lot smaller and easier to carry. I have rarely missed the extra stop with the ISO performance of my Z6 and Z6ii. I have the 85mm as well as the 50mm 1.8 and they are all lovely lenses.

I had thought that you were moving from Canon to Nikon and wanted to keep using EF lenses; if you are starting from scratch, the Nikon Z lenses are excellent and I wouldn't bother trying to adapt Canon lenses unless you find a special vintage lens of some sort that you think you can't live without.



This is not a function of the lens, it's a function of shutter speed. I'd also recommend picking up the book Undertanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson as a way to learn manual mode; it's clear you are excited to learn photography more in depth, and that book really breaks down the exposure triangle which I think will be key for you to learn based on some of your comments here. I moved from auto to full manual in the course of a week or so reading this book some 15 years ago. I have yet to come across a better resource for learning manual.
I wonder how many of us have or have had "Understanding Exposure"? I came across it just the other day as I was going through my books. That and my Ansel Adams trilogy (plus one other of his on how he made certain iconic images) are books I'll never part with. Though it must be said, I understood and got more out of Ansel's books MUCH later in my learning journey than I did at the beginning. I'm slow though.
 
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mollyc

macrumors G3
Aug 18, 2016
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I wonder how many of us have or have had "Understanding Exposure"? I came across it just the other day as I was going through my books. That and my Ansel Adams trilogy (plus one other of his on how he made certain iconic images) are books I'll never part with. Though it must be said, I understood and got more out of Ansel's books MUCH later in my learning journey than I did at the beginning. I'm slow though.
A good question for a poll thread!

When I started, digital photography was, if not in its infancy, certainly in its toddlerhood; while the exposure principals are largely the same from analog to digital, it's much faster with digital to get a handle on things and the learning curve is much shorter. Fifteen years ago there were not nearly as many high quality educational sites and while a workshop with some feedback can be valuable for learning manual, I found that book to be such a resource and a gift when I was learning. Surely now you could go out with a phone and google things on the fly, but for $30 and the ability to post it or dog-ear stuff you want to come back to is just such a bargain compared to online classes with much less info for much more money.

I always enjoyed the actual photography in that book as well and you knew the author was proficient in his craft, not just someone out to make a buck or two.
 

_timo_redux_

macrumors 65816
Dec 13, 2022
1,292
18,707
New York City
This is not a function of the lens, it's a function of shutter speed. I'd also recommend picking up the book Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson as a way to learn manual mode; it's clear you are excited to learn photography more in depth, and that book really breaks down the exposure triangle which I think will be key for you to learn based on some of your comments here. I moved from auto to full manual in the course of a week or so reading this book some 15 years ago. I have yet to come across a better resource for learning manual.
THIS. I also read this book, gave it to other, and recommended it to still others. It's just info that's good to internalize -- like the specifics of how your camera works -- so that you can press on to the real work of being creative with a camera.
 

ChrisA

macrumors G5
Jan 5, 2006
12,898
2,109
Redondo Beach, California
I'm a tech kinda guy who's been interested in photography for a while but honestly I've been too intimidated to take the plunge. I've been reading articles for months now, looking at posts in this forum lately, and constantly trying to keep up with The Verge camera articles while I build up the courage to take the plunge. Since I don't have a personal Becca from The Verge to bounce questions off of, I wondered if some of you kind people would mind giving a newbie some starting tips. I'm starting out with the fundaments slowly, one piece at a time. Honestly it seems overwhelming but with baby steps I think I can comfortably ease into it and see if it's a hobby for me.

I have decided to start by deciding on only the body of the camera to start out with as step one.

Would anyone have some advice for someone looking for the following in a camera?

  • mirrorless
  • Canon/Nikon/Sony brand (it's my understanding that these are usually regarded as the best overall but just as importantly can interchange legacy DSLR lenses to be used on the mirrorless models and apparently even have adapters to use each others lenses? wow...)
  • I couldn't care less about video of any kind, I would sacrifice any video features for better camera features and a better value
  • best value/bang for my buck (be it a brand new model or much older model)
  • an emphasis on feature to combat blur as much as possible (ISO? shutter speed? aperture?)
  • any features you, as professionals, would advise for the potential to take some great photos (any and all comments welcome and appreciated)
With that in mind, does anyone have a recommendation on a camera that sounds like it would fit the bill of what I'm looking for?

Much appreciated.

Why not just use your iPhone?

This is a serious question. There might be good reasons. But write them down. Perhaps you are a scuba diver or you want to shoot pictures of birds in flight or you are shooting sports and the iPhone will not react fast enough to te controls. I'm sure you have reasons. Make a list.

Then when selecting a camera make sure it addresses your list

I bet some things you wrote in your post will not show up on your list. For example "interchange legacy DSLR lenses" is unimportant if you do not already own serval SLR lenses

You don't need many "features". Just control the focus, focal length, ISO , aperture and shutter speed. And image stabilization is very nice to have.

The most important thing is your location and the time when you trip the shutter.

So many beginners think photography is all about the equipment. They say "If only I had a better camera..." I'm sorry but t is like a painter saying "if only I could afford a better brush." The iPhone allows you to select the composition and you can choose to lighting and it allows you to be at the right place at the right time. It has a lot going for it.

Try this. Take two dozen shots EVERY day. Give yourself different assignments like
1) You are a tourist from far away visiting your home town and you want tot shot those back home what this place is like
2) Find and shoot contrasting colors
3) Shoot street portraits (ask before you shoot and get their cooperation)
4) find and shoot repeating patterns.
5) any other photo 101 class assignments you can think up.

After you have two weeks of work find the best dozen photos.

Now ask how better equipment would have made your new portfolio of a dozen shots better. maybe there are real good answers like
1) I could be not missed some split-second timing
2) I could have framed the subject better
3) I could have reduced camera motion blur.

Another assignment: Go to the library ad look at books of images by well-known photographers and figure out which person's work and style you like. Now spend a week or so shooting images attempting to emulate that stype. Perhaps even copying some images. Make notes on how your current equipment prevents you from doing this

I still shoot a 15-year-old Nikon D300s I only use a few lenses, some very old. No one has ever told me "These images would look so much better if you bought a more up-to-date camera." I never hear that. You can buy a used D300s for $150.

If you want VALUE, look at the used market. Buy something for $200, shoot 4,000 frames and then sell the camera for the same price you paid. After 4,000 frames you will know for sure what you want.

For years, no decades photography students were told to buy a simple SLR and a single 50mm lens. All of their assignments were to be done with this setup. The idea was that they needed to learn about photography, not about gear collecting. But now I say "Start with your cell phone camera and only buy more equipment if you can say exactly what problem you are having and how the new gear will address that problem.
 
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