Tripods and heads are a whole subject in and of themselves, and good ones are expensive!
Basically the old saying on this is pick two of the three-stiffness, light weight, and inexpensive.
Typically the legs and head are purchased separately, and you pick each to suit you best.
Gitzo is often the go-to suggestion, although there are some other great makers out there. I use a lower end Manfrotto CF tripod that I've been happy with, although Manfrotto draws some mixed opinions on quality.
When you're buying legs, here's what all you need to consider:
1. Height-This is a big one as ideally it should be tall enough that you can bring your viewfinder to a comfortable height without raising the center column or at least only doing so minimally. I'm 6'2", and this is something that can really run up the price of a tripod for me, but even the best center column raised more than a couple of inches basically kills all the stiffness you paid big money for in the rest of your tripod. When shopping, bear in mind that your head+camera will add 8" at least to the height of the legs, although this is dependent on the camera and the head.
2. Folded size-Most tripods out there have either 3 or 4 leg segments. All else equal, 3 segment legs will be stiffer than 4 segment, but also longer.
3. Weight support needed-You're asking for trouble if you try to stick a 20lb view camera on a tripod rated for 10lbs, but you're paying for and carrying around a lot more than you need if you're sticking 5lbs of camera on a 20lb rated tripod.
4. Material/Stiffness/Weight-I lump all of these in together because they work together. Wood in a lot of ways is the ideal tripod material as it absorbs vibration, but it's HEAVY. Aluminum is stiff, but transmits vibration well so weight is its main defense against it. Carbon fiber is stiffer than aluminum for a given amount of material, and does have some "springiness" that will absorb vibration. I personally consider CF the all around best choice outside the studio, although I have used both aluminum wood in the studio and close to home/the car.
Heads are a totally different subject, and quality ones of any type that will allow you to move the camera when you need to but keep it still when you don't are expensive. A lot of still photographers like ball heads. A good quality ball head allows you to position the camera in virtually any position rather easily. I use an Arca-Swiss B1, which is older(no longer in production) but I'm quite happy with it. It was a reference ball head for a while, although newer ones have replaced it.
Pan tilt heads are ubiquitous on less expensive tripods. I love the one that's on my Tiltall, but there again they are all over the place. Some still photographers are moving toward gimbal or fluid heads-I plead ignorance on those.
The last piece of all of it is attaching your camera to the head. If you are going to use a QR system, I HIGHLY recommend using an Arca-Swiss style dovetail system. The Really Right Stuff(RRS) system is subtly different but I use a whole lot of RRS plates with my AS head and they all work fine. These style plates are a sort of defacto standard, are small enough that they can be left attached to a camera(especially the Kirk and RRS plates that are custom made for each camera) and are fast and easy to attach and remove. I even have a Kirk foot on my 70-200 f/2.8, which is really convenient as the foot fits directly into the plate retainer. Avoid the million different Bogen/Manfrotto QR plates.
