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SR MBP runs way too hot
- Thread starter mrmacdude
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You've just pointed out one of the reasons yourself
As others have said, it should work - although I'm not sure if it works under Leopard.
Oh goody.
Perhaps the OP would like to enlighten us as to how it doesn't work for him/her in that case.
Perhaps the OP would like to enlighten us as to how it doesn't work for him/her in that case.
check to make sure there isn't a clear plastic covering on the rear vent
this was a known issue from apple that they failed to remove this plastic before shipping, thus not allowing the hot air out
this was a known issue from apple that they failed to remove this plastic before shipping, thus not allowing the hot air out
Forget smcFancontrol, the better freebie is Fancontrol 1.2, which regulates the speed of your fans better than the default firmware settings in the MBP. Those trade off heat for quiet, which is why your MBP gets toasty.
Version 1.2 works fine under Leopard 10.5.1.
Version 1.2 works fine under Leopard 10.5.1.
I suppose it depends on which you prefer. The fact that I *need* either with the MBP is laughable in itself but if pressed I greatly prefer smcFancontrol as it works a lot better. It's the only one I paid for.
I'm a big believer in RMClock (free) under Windows and Coolbook ($10) under OSX. These programs allow you to undervolt your processor. Mine is completely stable under high loads much lower than stock.
After testing, my optimal voltage settings are:
1.025 v @ 2.2ghz (1.250 v normally)
0.975 v @ 2.0ghz (1.1875 v norm)
0.925 v @ 1.8ghz (1.125 v norm)
0.850 v @ 1.4ghz (1.0 v norm)
0.850 v @ 800 mhz (0.850 v norm)
Less electricity means less heat, and while it may mean less stability as well, thorough testing with the utility provided by Coolbook lets you know where the sweet spot is.
As you can see, you can't undervolt any lower than the 800 mhz idle setting already is at, so it won't change your idle speed, but it will help a lot when you're doing processor-intensive tasks.
After testing, my optimal voltage settings are:
1.025 v @ 2.2ghz (1.250 v normally)
0.975 v @ 2.0ghz (1.1875 v norm)
0.925 v @ 1.8ghz (1.125 v norm)
0.850 v @ 1.4ghz (1.0 v norm)
0.850 v @ 800 mhz (0.850 v norm)
Less electricity means less heat, and while it may mean less stability as well, thorough testing with the utility provided by Coolbook lets you know where the sweet spot is.
As you can see, you can't undervolt any lower than the 800 mhz idle setting already is at, so it won't change your idle speed, but it will help a lot when you're doing processor-intensive tasks.
Since the MBPs intake is... right next to the exhaust it's circulating nothing but hot air, you could always drill a grid of small holes on the bottom case, right under the two fans so it's actually pulling some cool air into the machine. The top speaker holes provide little intake, and are slightly off of the fans. My MBP has never gotten that hot to justify me doing it, but I'm sure it would make a hell of a difference. Did this on my old laptop which ran hot, and it helped a lot. Just bad thermal design on Apple's part, they just had to make it look perfect. A lot of laptops do this though, some even have the holes but then ingeniously slap warranty stickers over them hah.
holes? mate, there is no need to butcher it; find out why it is over heating; it shouldn't be that hot - heck, mine never gets that hot.
While I wouldn't call that butchering it lol, if done correctly =P, this is true as mine never gets that either. A last resort option?
I'm assuming he recently bought it (Santa Rosa) - why not take it into the store he bought it from and find out why - by putting holes in hit, he invalidates his warranty - and its also just plain well stupid too.