How sleek does it have to be? Nikon P5000 is ~1.5in, which is kind of bulky in either a suit (jacket) pocket or trousers. Fuji F30/F31 (I would take the slightly improved noise reduction characteristics of the F31, and then apply Noise Ninja to further improve upon ISO 800 and above) is only 1in thick, but lacks much of the manual controls (has AP & SP modes but that's about it) that someone used to using a dSLR might miss. Check dpreview & especially dcresource-for nighttime SFBay shoreline, to see how noisy these are in fully enlarged images at 800ISO or higher, the Fuji is in a class of it's own, but you may not need that kind of performance in a PnS camera if you can get by with very slow shutter speeds and image stabilization. If not, and thinness is more important, go with Fuji's F31 with the knowledge that like most PnS compacts, you are stuck with a relatively annoying 35mm equivalent wide angle.
Canon's 800is is better than the 700is (though just slightly noiser at higher ISO) because it goes wider to 28mm. Just go into any store like a Best Buy or what not, and use a 35mm WA lens PnS right next to one that has 28mm and you'll quickly appreciate that ability to go much wider for indoor shots/space confined ares, or even taking pictures of large groups of people...invaluable.
Want a little more control, actually the 800is is pretty much all auto only except manual white balance (but it does have a rarity in a optical viewfinder which can come in handy in bright sunny days, or indoor bright lighting such as sporting events or the like where they use high intensity lighting, as even the brightest of LCD's are not easity to use with bright light shinning into the LCD), then you could try the 28-200mm Ricoh R6 which is also only 1in thick, which even has a limited manual focus control, and other system tweaks/controls like manual white balance/exposure bracketing, and a somewhat useful limited live? histogram.
While only 35mm at the wide end, if you do go to 1.5in thick, then the soon to be discontinued? A710is and under $300 has many manual controls, and most importantly if you are really serious in the use of dSLR's, the Digic II processor engine can be hacked to get you RAW images and a histogram including zebra highlight over-exposure indicator! DIGIC III hasn't been hacked as yet.
Linky for CHDK RAW hack for DIGIC II cameras:
http://scratchpad.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK/FAQ
Another option you
might consider for low light or high-contrast situations is the High Dynamic Range technique which is a PITA time consuming process (that many pros who have time to compose their images or what to use higher end dSLR's AE wider range consecutive multi-frame capability will use), if you have the patience/time, can work wonders.
Links for(to read explanation of, now to use software to obtain is and shoot it) HDR / HDRI:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/hdr.shtml
http://www.flickr.com/groups/hdr/pool/
http://www.hdrsoft.com/
Only problem with the Fuji F30/31 is lack of image stabilization, Panasonic is supposedly best on this front, and their TZ3 has a quality Leica lens and also does 28mm wide, but the image processor kills detail with very heavy and not so successful noise reduction (this one also has bracketing but no RAW image caputure capability). Samsung and Ricoh's GR series seem to have as bad or worse jpeg image processing.
