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GimmeSlack12

macrumors 603
Original poster
Apr 29, 2005
5,406
14
San Francisco
My internal 320gb iMac HDD died, since the computer is a 2008 (late 2007) I decided to upgrade to a 1.5tb internal. So I bought a drive and took apart my iMac and popped in the drive and put it back together. (note: I'm very familiar with tough installs).

I hit the power button and I get a half startup bong and then nothing, then it restarts and half-bongs again, restarts, so I turn it off. Start it again, a fraction of a bong and then nothing really. All the while the screen never made a flicker or anything, just straight black. I do hear the DVD spin up (my 10.6 disc is in there).

So I took the iMac apart again and checked everything and all was fine. I really don't know what to do. I have done the SMC reset and went through the motions for zapping PRAM.

Ideas please! Is the LCD fried? Thoughts on what might be dead?
 
My internal 320gb iMac HDD died, since the computer is a 2008 (late 2007) I decided to upgrade to a 1.5tb internal. So I bought a drive and took apart my iMac. So I took it apart and popped in the drive and put it back together. (note: I'm very familiar with tough installs).

I hit the power button and I get a half startup bong and then nothing, then it restarts and half-bongs again, restarts, so I turn it off. Start it again, a fraction of a bong and then nothing really. All the while the screen never made a flicker or anything, just straight black. I do hear the DVD spin up (my 10.6 disc is in there).

So I took the iMac apart again and checked everything and all was fine. I really don't know what to do. I have done the SMC reset and went through the motions for zapping PRAM.

Ideas please! Is the LCD fried? Thoughts on what might be dead?

You say you have experience of this sort of thing so forgive me if I am suggesting something you have already looked at.

The first thing I'd do is check for any nipped cables. It's very easy to nip a cable when reassembling. This is general advice, vie not upgraded my 2007 iMac yet but will do so soon I think.

Second thing I'd do is try putting the other drive back in the machine and see if the symptom changes back to the original symptom. It is possible that the drive is not compatible or even faulty. For example, does it have geometry which is not suitable?

Have you disturbed the CPU heatsink? If so then you might need to renew the thermal compound or pad. Also look out for any metal foil tape of shields causing short circuits. Did you use an ESD strap when doing the work? Could you have static damage?

I hope some of the above helps and will be very interested to hear how you get on.

Good luck!
Craig.
 
Sometimes the simple suggestions are best... :eek:

All suggestions are welcome, however simple. But I'm getting zero from the screen right now so hard to say if its booting or not.

As for the "nibbed" cable I have looked through this thing 3 times now. Plugged and unplugged the cables I worked on a few times (very carefully) and don't think this is the case, but the suggestion is welcome.

Just after putting it back together this morning I thought of putting the old drive back in and seeing if that is the problem. I'm going out of town this morning so I can't try again til next week.
 
All suggestions are welcome, however simple. But I'm getting zero from the screen right now so hard to say if its booting or not.

As for the "nibbed" cable I have looked through this thing 3 times now. Plugged and unplugged the cables I worked on a few times (very carefully) and don't think this is the case, but the suggestion is welcome.

Just after putting it back together this morning I thought of putting the old drive back in and seeing if that is the problem. I'm going out of town this morning so I can't try again til next week.

I hope you didn't pick me up wrongly. I wasn't criticising the "simple" suggestion, I was just a bit embarrassed I hadn't suggested it myself. Hence the :eek:

Sounds like you've covered most of the bases already as I suspected. Last time this sort of thing happened to me it was a crushed cable which is why I suggested it. Really made me mad as I have a lot of experience of this sort of thing and don't often make mistakes... Still makes me mad thinking about it! :mad:

I hope it just turns out to be an incompatible drive. Fingers crossed for you!
 
I hope you didn't pick me up wrongly. I wasn't criticising the "simple" suggestion, I was just a bit embarrassed I hadn't suggested it myself. Hence the :eek:

Sounds like you've covered most of the bases already as I suspected. Last time this sort of thing happened to me it was a crushed cable which is why I suggested it. Really made me mad as I have a lot of experience of this sort of thing and don't often make mistakes... Still makes me mad thinking about it! :mad:

I hope it just turns out to be an incompatible drive. Fingers crossed for you!

No, I've overlooked the simple stuff before and it's bugged the hell out of me before. So I welcome the comment.

I will look at the crushed cable approach since it is pretty tight inside that thing.
 
My 320GB drive died on the 20" version of that machine, was replaced by AppleCare -- but ever they "forgot" to plug in a wire.

So knocking a cable out can happen.

Though with what you described sounds more like a short grounding something out.
 
My 320GB drive died on the 20" version of that machine, was replaced by AppleCare -- but ever they "forgot" to plug in a wire.

So knocking a cable out can happen.

Though with what you described sounds more like a short grounding something out.

I have read about issues after HDD upgrade where the LCD video cable needed to be taped in position to maintain a good connection. Also, the other two cables to the LCD need careful handling.

@OP are you getting any signs of backlight glow or is the LCD completely dead?

Have a look at this and follow steps as if this is your first time inside a computer. Easier said than done I know... ;)

http://www.amfiteatar.org/content/view/155/57/lang,en/
 
wait, so DID you hold down the C key to boot from DVD?

Yes I have tried this. Nothing. But considering the new HDD I installed is not formatted I would have assumed that the iMac would have boot from the DVD anyway since it's the only drive that has a bootable volume.

The LCD is not producing any light or activity whatsoever. The only thing I can hear is the DVD spin up and do a little bit of something and then quiet. No startup bong, no beeps, blips, or blaps. Just nothing. I'm still away from home on a long weekend so I won't get to any other fix approaches until tomorrow evening.
 
I really checked the power cable. Not Crushed.
I put my old, bad, drive back in. Still won't turn on.
Tested the new 1.5Tb drive in my external case. It works fine.

My iMac is ****ing borked. Goddammit!
So now what? Do I get AppleCare or something?
 
Too late for Applecare. Sounds like you horked up something with the original replacement. If there are any "teardown" pictures of your model on the web maybe you can take a close them at them and compare them to what your machine looks like and see if something's unplugged or not in the right place.
 
I got ahold of the Apple Service Manual for my iMac. There are 4 LED's you can see once the bezel is off. 3 of 4 light up with the 4th LED being represented by the LCD and computer "communicating". With this LED off the LCD or the LCD inverter need replacing. *****.
 
I got ahold of the Apple Service Manual for my iMac. There are 4 LED's you can see once the bezel is off. 3 of 4 light up with the 4th LED being represented by the LCD and computer "communicating". With this LED off the LCD or the LCD inverter need replacing. *****.

Did you double check all cables connecting the LCD. I would put money on a connection, before the screen being busted.
 
Did you double check all cables connecting the LCD. I would put money on a connection, before the screen being busted.

I've checked and checked and checked. I really wish this was the case too, but unless I'm just missing something (which is very possible) then I a not sure what other conclusion to come to.

There are 3 cables to detach:
Thermometer (small little cable)
GPU (have to unscrew to pull out)
Power (the most difficult to pull out/put in).

Thats it. :(
 
With this LED off the LCD or the LCD inverter need replacing. *****.

From Service source:

Indicates that the computer and the LCD display panel are communicating. This LED will be ON when the computer is turned on and video signal is being generated. If the LED is ON and there is no image on the LCD display panel, the LCD display panel or inverter might be installed incorrectly or need replacement.

So, if 4th LED is OFF there is no communication between logic board and display or video signal is not being generated.

Your symptoms (half a chime and countinuous restarts) are indicating logic graphics card or logic board failure. For example: when i installed in my MP graphics card with blank EEPROM chip on it (to flash in MP), my MP was acting exactly that same as your iMac.
Some of dead iMacs that i saw before had exactly that same symptoms.

Try to check (i know that you done it many times) all cables and connectors related to graphics card or graphics card itself.

One more question: what exactly you experienced before you started with disk replacing (for the first time)?
 
Try to check (i know that you done it many times) all cables and connectors related to graphics card or graphics card itself.

One more question: what exactly you experienced before you started with disk replacing (for the first time)?

I've checked the cables enough times on my own, at this point I'll let the AppleStore do the checking. I'm just exhausted on opening that thing up :(

Not sure what you're asking on your question, are you asking what my experience in fixing things like this? Or are you asking what my symptoms were prior to replacing the drive? I'll answer both.

I've been working on PC/Macs since the mid-90's with basic replacements of components and built a few PC's. Since then I've taken apart iBooks, and Mac Mini's to replace RAM, HDD's, Opticals. With the iMac I was aware that it was probably the toughest take apart I've encountered but was confident based on the amount of walk-through's available online.

As for previous symptoms, I was getting infinite beach balls and despite wiping the drive, formatting the drive, disk utility checking, disk warrior checking and on and on the drive continued with the beach balls. I put the iMac in target mode with my iBook and the iMac drive showed up and worked just fine, I backed up my important stuff to an external and bought the 1.5 TB drive. Also, this will be the 3rd internal HDD on this iMac that has died (the other two were replaced under warranty).
 
Not sure what you're asking on your question, are you asking what my experience in fixing things like this? Or are you asking what my symptoms were prior to replacing the drive? I'll answer both.

Sorry, it's my english ;) I was asking about symptoms before HDD replacing.
I wish you that it's not logic board issue, but i think, it will be Apple techs diagnose.
 
*UPDATE*

So I took the iMac to an AppleStore a week ago and I just now got the verdict:
Burned out Power Supply.

Thinking back I don't think i plugged the LCD power inverter cable in far enough and this is likely the culprit of my problems. So ultimately it is my fault, but this is no surprise considering I tested the new HDD and it works fine.

It is costing me $92 out the door to replace the power supply which is cheaper than a new GPU and much much cheaper than replacing the Logic Board (mobo). Lesson learned.
 
I had this problem on an older iMac. Turns out the hard drive required more amps than the iMac power supply could give. If you are using a Seagate hard drive as that 1.5 TB, you may need to try one that does not require as much current for it to start up. A WD green drive possibly. Just a thought. I could be wrong. But iMacs for me have always been solid performers, and I just do not think the computer is at fault. These drives are really cheap on eBay now.
 
I had this problem on an older iMac. Turns out the hard drive required more amps than the iMac power supply could give. If you are using a Seagate hard drive as that 1.5 TB, you may need to try one that does not require as much current for it to start up. A WD green drive possibly. Just a thought. I could be wrong. But iMacs for me have always been solid performers, and I just do not think the computer is at fault. These drives are really cheap on eBay now.

Interesting. I didn't know an HD would need so much power to burn out a power supply.
 
*UPDATE*

So I took the iMac to an AppleStore a week ago and I just now got the verdict:
Burned out Power Supply.

Thinking back I don't think i plugged the LCD power inverter cable in far enough and this is likely the culprit of my problems. So ultimately it is my fault, but this is no surprise considering I tested the new HDD and it works fine.

It is costing me $92 out the door to replace the power supply which is cheaper than a new GPU and much much cheaper than replacing the Logic Board (mobo). Lesson learned.

Not so bad (costs), but it's interesting how PSU got damaged...
 
I had this problem on an older iMac. Turns out the hard drive required more amps than the iMac power supply could give. If you are using a Seagate hard drive as that 1.5 TB, you may need to try one that does not require as much current for it to start up. A WD green drive possibly. Just a thought. I could be wrong. But iMacs for me have always been solid performers, and I just do not think the computer is at fault. These drives are really cheap on eBay now.

An older iMac meaning which specifically?
 
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