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Where to post a picture for advice?
- Thread starter Jimon330
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I would start a new thread and ask for critique, or submit a photo to the "Photo Of The Day Thread" - https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/photo-of-the-day-january-2016.1947807/
Cheers
Hugh
Cheers
Hugh
Thanks Hugh, I will do that
I would start a new thread and ask for critique, or submit a photo to the "Photo Of The Day Thread" - https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/photo-of-the-day-january-2016.1947807/
Cheers
Hugh
What guidance are you after? Critique? Or how to reproduce an effect? Or how to fix it?
For critique pop it in picture of the day. Anything else, start a thread.
Dont be shy.
For critique pop it in picture of the day. Anything else, start a thread.
Dont be shy.
Well, here it is: a view of the Himalaya, taken through the cockpit windows. Problem is, it's blue and I am trying to remove the blue haze without any real success.
My question is twofold:
1. How to remove the haze I always get?
2. Is there a filter I could use to minimise this effect?
Thank you for your input.
Cheers
Jean-Marie
PS. I tried to upload the original RAF file without any success.
Where to post a picture for advice?
On dedicated photography forum, ideally one specifically the brand of camera body you are using. Remember this is an Apple/Mac BBS, not one dedicated to photography.
For example if you shoot Canon: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/
On dedicated photography forum, ideally one specifically the brand of camera body you are using. Remember this is an Apple/Mac BBS, not one dedicated to photography.
For example if you shoot Canon: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/
Not necessarily.
Such questions can be asked here, or the OP can start a separate thread, or, in the 'Photo Of The Day' section.
Actually, I have always found the photography forums here excellent - they are full of talented - and experienced - enthusiasts most of whom are very happy to share the benefits of their expertise when someone asks a question related to photography.
I was gonna say... We ask questions like that of each other all the time!
Maybe a polarising filter will help remove haze.
Actually, I like the Photography section a lot - it has a very pleasant atmosphere, and is an easy-going, warm and welcoming spot, where friendly and invariably helpful advice is freely tendered.
Indeed, I have learned a lot through admiring some of the excellent shots posted here, as well as through reading the comments and studying the occasional tutorial that some kind soul has gone to the trouble of preparing.
Nice pic shooting through glass can be tricky!
For the colour, if messing with the white balance doesn't work, i would just the old standby and turn the pic B&W, it all-ways hides a multitude of sins!! Trying the HSL slides and reducing the blue may help and You could try taking into PS and work with the individual colour curves (also LAB mode can be handy for colour correction) but generally its not worth the hassle.
For the haze, as others has suggested light rooms, dehaze, clarity and sharpness tools may help (if you go b&w try messing with the contrast).
If you post up the original file you might get a few helpful souls having a go at your file for you and posting how they got there
You are having difficulties with this pesky thing called atmosphere. Because of the distances involved there is a lot of air between you and the subject. The more distance you are covering the more you are going to suffer from light scattering. Underwater this gets even worse and photos from more than a few feet away can be ruined.
It used to be that you could use a good UV/IR filter to cut down on the haze since a lot of what you were seeing was in the UV spectrum and the film/sensor is sensitive to these frequencies. Modern digital cameras now have a hot mirror build into the sensor array that blocks most IR/UV light so the need for the filter has been reduced. (Some people still buy them just to protect the front element of their lens from accidental damage.) A good UV filter might improve your results slightly but not like they did in the days of film.
Another possibility is using a polarizing filter. These can help cut glare depending on the lighting conditions. You might find circular polarizing filter will give you a bit more contrast in such a scene. The filter will also reduce the amount of light entering the camera but for daytime shots this won't be a concern. Just remember to remove it if you are trying to photograph the Milky Way.
I haven't tried the new dehaze slider in Lightroom CC but reviews say it does a pretty good job. Just keep in mind that there is only so much you can do after the fact. Looking at the image, if you shot it in RAW format then I expect you will be able to get a pretty respectful image out of it.
Thank you all for the feedback.
I do not have Lightroom, and I tried with Capture One without success I must confess.
As for filters, I thought that Polarising filter would not work in the cockpit because of the multi layers window.
I do shoot in RAW (RAF for my Fuji XT-1) but was not able to upload the file into this forum.
I do not have Lightroom, and I tried with Capture One without success I must confess.
As for filters, I thought that Polarising filter would not work in the cockpit because of the multi layers window.
I do shoot in RAW (RAF for my Fuji XT-1) but was not able to upload the file into this forum.
Since you have a Fuji X-T1 (great camera btw), you might also venture into FujiRumors site. There are plenty there that have loads of experience with Fuji's RAW files, various processing apps from SilkyPix, Photo Ninja, Capture One and so on.
Sometimes photos from high altitudes are near lost causes when not shot with correction at the time or rather - compensation. Kodak created b/w film for that (technical pan) that was more sensitive to red. Polarizing filters can only go so far and both UV and "Haze" filters would not be sufficient on their own.
Here are things you might try and these relate more to the days of film cameras - a warming polarizing filter, a warming filter (if I recall they have numbers such as 81 etc.) and neutral or slightly warm graduated filters. These should be used along with a quality UV and/or haze filter. The catch here is of course you are adding more "glass" in front of your lens.
Processing - What you need are the curves associated with each of the three colours and to pull back on the most dominating curve while slightly bringing forward the other curves. This is very hit and miss but once understood, it becomes easy (depending on the software). For a first round, forget about the sky entirely and focus on the land and see how far you can adjust it. The skies will not look natural and then do a round that is a compromise of sky and land.
Forgive me if I am not being as direct with solutions as you might want but hopefully the above gives you some things to think about and use on future go-arounds.
Sometimes photos from high altitudes are near lost causes when not shot with correction at the time or rather - compensation. Kodak created b/w film for that (technical pan) that was more sensitive to red. Polarizing filters can only go so far and both UV and "Haze" filters would not be sufficient on their own.
Here are things you might try and these relate more to the days of film cameras - a warming polarizing filter, a warming filter (if I recall they have numbers such as 81 etc.) and neutral or slightly warm graduated filters. These should be used along with a quality UV and/or haze filter. The catch here is of course you are adding more "glass" in front of your lens.
Processing - What you need are the curves associated with each of the three colours and to pull back on the most dominating curve while slightly bringing forward the other curves. This is very hit and miss but once understood, it becomes easy (depending on the software). For a first round, forget about the sky entirely and focus on the land and see how far you can adjust it. The skies will not look natural and then do a round that is a compromise of sky and land.
Forgive me if I am not being as direct with solutions as you might want but hopefully the above gives you some things to think about and use on future go-arounds.
Thank you for your feedback; I will try the curves in Capture One, and check the Fuji forum.
In the mean time, here's the original, on my dropbox as suggested by Hugh.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/33155739/DAC JAN 2 - 03.RAF
In the mean time, here's the original, on my dropbox as suggested by Hugh.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/33155739/DAC JAN 2 - 03.RAF