I've done some reading but I'm confused to weather I need (or what the difference/advantage/disadvantage is) between PC sync cables and the hot shoe cables in order to get the SB 800 to be able to use TTL mode with the D 40. Which is the cable that I'll need?
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Which cable for off camera TTL with D40?
- Thread starter PkennethV
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For TTL with an SB800, I think you'd want an SC-28 TTL Remote Cord or perhaps an SC-29 if you want the same thing with the addition of IR low-light focus-assist.
For TTL with an SB800, I think you'd want an SC-28 TTL Remote Cord or perhaps an SC-29 if you want the same thing with the addition of IR low-light focus-assist.
You are 100% correct Sir, good job and pix- excellent helpful post
if you need to have TTL, i'd go for the cable
but if you dont mind manually setting your flash go for the wireless adapters ( which are cheaper then the cables)
they open up a whole new world of possibilities
check out the cactus v2 radio triggers from gadget infinity ( AKA "ebay triggers")
link :http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/product.php?productid=16766&cat=0&page=
but if you dont mind manually setting your flash go for the wireless adapters ( which are cheaper then the cables)
they open up a whole new world of possibilities
check out the cactus v2 radio triggers from gadget infinity ( AKA "ebay triggers")
link :http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/product.php?productid=16766&cat=0&page=
The SB-800 should be able to use it's IR autofocus help anyway, regardless of cord. I have a cheapie Jessops brand cord "for Nikon" and my SB-600's IR focus works fine.
Same thing, firing a flash or set of strobes, but a sync cable won't do iTTL - you'd have to set your flash exposure manually because the camera will no longer be able to do it for you.
Right about that. I have a few of the Wein optical slaves. These are real cheap, I paid about $25 but they may be more now. What they do is trigger a remote flash when ever a flash goes off in the room. I mount a cheap flash to my camera set it to low power and aim it backwards at the back wall. Then I put a Wein slave on my main lights that point at the subject. When the on-camera flash pops it triggers the main lights. The main lights can be very inexpensive Vivitar H283 units. These have as much power as the Nikon SB800 but cost only about $45 each.
Lots of choices here. I'd say pick up one of these to start with. Then later buy an IR or Radio slave for the few cases were the optical s don't work.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/shop/1736/Optical_Slaves.html
But with any of this stuff you will have to learn how to do simple division in your head, like "how many times does 10 go into 90,... about 9,... 9 is close to 8, ... so use f/8." But then if you are doing off camera lights you have to work out lighting ratios anyways so that (say) one light is one stop brighter or a stopa dn s half brighter of whatever and iTTL will not save you there, you'll be shooting manual anyways. May as well use the lower cost strobes.