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147798

Suspended
Original poster
Dec 29, 2007
1,047
219
I have a white 20" 2.16GHz Intel iMac that I'd like to better calibrate as I work with my pictures. My intention is to use Lightroom (and iPhoto) and mostly send out my products for printing (though I might get an Epson printer).

I am not a Pro, so this doesn't need to be perfect. I don't need the cheapest thing, but I also don't want something soooo complicated. Essentially, I think spending up to $200 is acceptable, as long as I'm not spending my life managing the device.

I'm looking at the Huey, Spyder (Pro or Elite) and EyeOne Display 2. The Huey seems very (overly?) aligned w/the Pantone system, and I've seen some negative reviews. I've also seemed some negative reviews on the Spyder Express, hence my looking at Pro or Elite.

If I want something that I can set up without much frustration, that gives good results (and of course, I don't NEED to spend $200), is there one reason to pick the EyeOne over one of the Spyders, or vice versa?
 

Phrasikleia

macrumors 601
Feb 24, 2008
4,082
403
Over there------->
I know that the Eye-One Display 2 gives an option to measure luminance, which is nice if you don't always keep your display really bright or if you want to match two different monitors. If I recall correctly, the Spyder doesn't do that.
 

AxisOfBeagles

macrumors 6502
Apr 22, 2008
441
112
Top of the South
I use Spyder. It does two different monitors - but only if you get the Pro.

It works fine; easy to use, seems effective, I like the ability to save the different profiles. I can't compare it to others cuz it's the only one I've used.
 

iTiki

macrumors 6502
Feb 9, 2007
426
8
Maui, Hawaii
I used the Huey Pro because I was able to borrow it at no charge.:D I'm sure there are better systems, but it has worked very well for me. My on screen images are now VERY CLOSE to my prints.
 

vga4life

macrumors 6502
Jun 16, 2004
411
0
I use Spyder. It does two different monitors - but only if you get the Pro.

It works fine; easy to use, seems effective, I like the ability to save the different profiles. I can't compare it to others cuz it's the only one I've used.

You can use the Spyder2 Express software and calibrate multiple displays; you just need to rename the 'Spyder2Express' profile it creates to something else, then open it with the ColorSync utility and change the 'localized description strings'. (I just use the display's name and the date I calibrated for both the filename and description.)
 

qveda

macrumors regular
Sep 8, 2008
240
0
dual displays, and Gamma 2.2 ?

I know that the Eye-One Display 2 gives an option to measure luminance, which is nice if you don't always keep your display really bright or if you want to match two different monitors. If I recall correctly, the Spyder doesn't do that.

I was just looking for this kind of info.!
Still not clear to me if the Display2 can calibrate both monitors on a dual monitor setup. Apparently the Spyder3 can. This would be a plus for me.

Also, in the MacOS X SystemPreferences> Display >Color , there is a monitor calibration that runs you through a sequence of adjustments. Is it recommended to do this, in addition to using a Spyder or Display2 ??

And, in this calibration, should you set Gamma to 1.8 (Mac default), or 2.2 (more commonly used) ??
 

valdore

macrumors 65816
Jan 9, 2007
1,262
0
Kansas City, Missouri. USA
My advice may be completely off here so someone with better knowledge of color management and calibration feel free to correct me, but what I did was...

- use the built in color management utility doo-hickey in OSX with my 23 inch ACD monitor.

- then I switched my programs (Lightroom, Photomatix Pro, and Photoshop CS4) to all work in ProPhoto RGB format throughout the workflow (doing lots of 16 bit TIFFS these days).

when I did this, I found all photos rendered virtually identical from program to program. (I was having problems with stuff looking different in Photoshop versus Lightroom versus OSX's QuickLook feature and so forth.

Then I convert to Adobe RGB if I'm going to print, since a lot of printers/print places don't know a damned thing about ProPhoto yet. And if I'm posting to web, simply convert to sRGB. Those color profile conversions and be done via Edit>Convert to Profile



....if this helps anyone.
 

valdore

macrumors 65816
Jan 9, 2007
1,262
0
Kansas City, Missouri. USA
Hi Valdore,
in the doo-hicky, do you set Gamma to 2.2 ?


I just checked to verify - actually I have it set at 1.8, which is said to be "Mac Standard."

I recall those weeks ago when I was doing this, I experimented with the 2.2. and that other gamma option, but the 1.8 seemed optimal over the other two options, to me at least.
 

Cliff3

macrumors 68000
Nov 2, 2007
1,556
180
SF Bay Area
I was just looking for this kind of info.!
Still not clear to me if the Display2 can calibrate both monitors on a dual monitor setup. Apparently the Spyder3 can. This would be a plus for me.

Also, in the MacOS X SystemPreferences> Display >Color , there is a monitor calibration that runs you through a sequence of adjustments. Is it recommended to do this, in addition to using a Spyder or Display2 ??

And, in this calibration, should you set Gamma to 1.8 (Mac default), or 2.2 (more commonly used) ??

- The Xrite device calibrates multiple monitors. Just drag the application window to the monitor you want to calibrate.

- Do not use the OS X color calibration utility if you've calibrated via a dedicated device. The colorimeter is far more accurate and consistent than your eyeballs.

- I am using a 2.2 gamma setting to avoid annoying the legions of Windows users out there who are not able to configure their gamma settings.
 

qveda

macrumors regular
Sep 8, 2008
240
0
color space workflow, is this correct?

Hi Cliff3, thanks for the info. I prefer the look of Gamma 1.8, but this may not be as good for my goals as Gamma 2.2.

I'm trying to learn about using color spaces to help me know what to expect from prints or projected images from other computers - based on what I see on my monitor. Today, even when I seem to get the color right , the brightness often seems off when I have it printed.

First, I will be buying a Spyder3Pro or Display2 to calibrate my monitor. Then I will not use the MacOSX Sys.Pref. calibration

Can you tell me if this is a good workflow ??:

1) MyCamera (jpg, sRGB) --> LightRoom (non destructive edits) --> CS4 (Tif or psd, ProPhoto). So far, so good - I think

2a) Now I want to save back to jpg for printing or projecting from another computer. In CS4, Edit>Assign to Profile> ICC profile for the target printer.

or,
2b) If I want it too look right on another computer or projected, for which I have no profile, I assume sRGB. In CS4 , Edit>Color Settings>select sRGB.

3) Adjust the image brightness, contrast , color , etc. so it looks right on the display (again). Change the Mode to 8bit, Save to jpg. Send file to printer. I am careful not to save these changes to over-write the original Tif or PSD .

Is this a good workflow ?
 

147798

Suspended
Original poster
Dec 29, 2007
1,047
219
Hi Cliff3, thanks for the info. I prefer the look of Gamma 1.8, but this may not be as good for my goals as Gamma 2.2.

I'm trying to learn about using color spaces to help me know what to expect from prints or projected images from other computers - based on what I see on my monitor. Today, even when I seem to get the color right , the brightness often seems off when I have it printed.

First, I will be buying a Spyder3Pro or Display2 to calibrate my monitor. Then I will not use the MacOSX Sys.Pref. calibration

Can you tell me if this is a good workflow ??:

1) MyCamera (jpg, sRGB) --> LightRoom (non destructive edits) --> CS4 (Tif or psd, ProPhoto). So far, so good - I think

2a) Now I want to save back to jpg for printing or projecting from another computer. In CS4, Edit>Assign to Profile> ICC profile for the target printer.

or,
2b) If I want it too look right on another computer or projected, for which I have no profile, I assume sRGB. In CS4 , Edit>Color Settings>select sRGB.

3) Adjust the image brightness, contrast , color , etc. so it looks right on the display (again). Change the Mode to 8bit, Save to jpg. Send file to printer. I am careful not to save these changes to over-write the original Tif or PSD .

Is this a good workflow ?

You forgot step one: hijack a thread ;)
 
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