AvSRoCkCO1067 said:
To be sure, I have no idea what an IS is...or if I really need it
. I think I'll get a monopod...or whatever they're called...to take pictures at hunter-jumper shows. I take macros fine with the DiMage 7i - and I have very, very steady hands - so I don't know if I need this IS thingy...
In a nutshell, tripods, monopods and IS are all technologies that "buy" you more light-gathering performance for your imaging system by allowing longer shutter speeds than what would otherwise normally be afforded as per the 1/(focal length)sec rule of thumb to minimize camara shake.
The rule of thumb for IS is that it buys you two full stops. IIRC, a monopod is around the same order of magnitude. So for a 200mm lens where the traditional rule of thumb says you need 1/250sec (I rounded up) to minimize shake effects, you would theoretically be able to shoot this as slowly as 1/60sec with no adverse effect.
Overall, it rarely hurts to have IS available (since it can always be disabled), but the caveat is that while you might not need a short shutter speed to freeze camera shake, you may need a short shutter speed anyway to freeze motion of the subject, so you didn't have the gain you might have been hoping for. There's no such thing as a free lunch
Although to a certain degree, I think that one might be able to successfully argue that IS is becoming (slightly) less important because unlike film, you can very easily change ISO on the fly with a dSLR, and the noise levels on ISO 800 and 1600 aren't as bad as you might think, so they can be usable.
Shrug, I have no clue
- I think I'll go back to the shop and compare the Nikon D50 to the Canon Digital Rebel some more...
To
mostly sidestep the Nikon/Canon debate, my $0.02 is that these two manufacturers are generally considered the industry leaders because they have very broad product lines ... noteably, lenses ... to choose from, which the other manufacturers lack. As such, either one represents a "safe" choice in that the lens(es) you'll eventually want probably already exist within their product lines.
Insofar as which one specifically to choose, since you have no preexisting legacy lenses to influence your decision, your better bet is to physically hold each dSLR body candidate (preferably with a couple of your candidate lenses) to see if you like the general "feel" (ergonomics), as well as if you like/dislike the logic of the layout of the controls.
This thread was aimed more at lens/accessory recommendations - I think that whatever camera I purchase will be a vast imporvement over what I have now. Thanks!
Your comment on horse jumping suggests a need for a telephoto lens, and you'll need some speed ... in system focusing and in glass ... in order to freeze motion.
I'm not sure how much lighting a typical horsejumping competition is shot under, but my initial thoughts might be to look at a Canon 20D with the 70-300 IS f/4.0-5.6 lens. I recognize this is over your budget, but it should have more than sufficient reach, and it is less "over your budget" than the same body with the 70-200L f/2.8 IS lens would put it.
Be aware that on the Canon side of the fence, there's several 70ish-300 lenses to get confused by...IIRC, there is at least:
75-300 (at $150, its within budget, but check reviews to see if it is soft)
75-300 IS (discontinued; I happen to own this lens; it is soft at 200mm+)
70-300 IS (replaced the above; reportedly "much improved")
70-300 DO IS (reportedly quite good, but generally considered overpriced)
When you put any of these onto a Canon dRebel or 20D, their 1.6x crop factor makes them into 35mm equivalents of 120mm-480mm.
For the longer term (ie, "more budget"), I'd say that the potential is that you would eventually consider an "L" zoom telephoto such as the Canon EF 100-400L IS f/4-5.6 lens, or the EF 70-200L IS f/2.8 lens, possibly with a 1.4x extender.
BTW, you had also originally asked about Camera Stores. I generally use & recommend
B&H.
-hh