According to the genius at the Apple Store, intermittent issues with individual keys registering are "normal" and can be solved either by turning it upside and shaking or else a can of compression air under the key. This was a common issue with the MacBook that has a similar keyboard.
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2016 Macbook Pro Issue - High Pitched Keyboard Clicking Sound
- Thread starter monstermac77
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According to the genius at the Apple Store, intermittent issues with individual keys registering are "normal" and can be solved either by turning it upside and shaking or else a can of compression air under the key. This was a common issue with the MacBook that has a similar keyboard.
Good to note. Have you/anyone tried this in an attempt to solve the high-pitched click issue?
Has anyone tried this? I'm curious to know whether it works.
I recently found a video of someone else who has the same issue on their 'E' key. They also say in the description that they only experience it when the computer is hot:
Sorry to hear that, @SeppelHut. If you have another machine you can use in the meantime, waiting until the end of your grace period (which I think is extended to early January because of the holidays) to give Apple more time to hopefully work out their manufacturing issues, and then returning it might be the way to go. You can repeat this process for as long as your stamina lasts, and if you don't have a BTO machine then the process could be pretty quick, even if it takes a few returns. You could also try going to your local Apple Store to see if they'll try to replace just the individual key (unlikely though).
Yeah, having the issue on a non-primary key really puts you in a tough spot. Considering you find it bearable, you could also try bringing it in for a replacement keyboard once people have been able to confirm they're not getting replacement machines with the same issue, but then you'd be subjecting your machine to a rather invasive procedure early in its life, which is less than ideal. I'm just of the opinion that this sort of issue in any capacity on any key is not acceptable, but if it really doesn't bother you then that's obviously your prerogative. Thanks very much for sharing that you've had the issue too: the more data points the better.
Sorry to hear that, @SeppelHut. If you have another machine you can use in the meantime, waiting until the end of your grace period (which I think is extended to early January because of the holidays) to give Apple more time to hopefully work out their manufacturing issues, and then returning it might be the way to go. You can repeat this process for as long as your stamina lasts, and if you don't have a BTO machine then the process could be pretty quick, even if it takes a few returns. You could also try going to your local Apple Store to see if they'll try to replace just the individual key (unlikely though).
Yeah, having the issue on a non-primary key really puts you in a tough spot. Considering you find it bearable, you could also try bringing it in for a replacement keyboard once people have been able to confirm they're not getting replacement machines with the same issue, but then you'd be subjecting your machine to a rather invasive procedure early in its life, which is less than ideal. I'm just of the opinion that this sort of issue in any capacity on any key is not acceptable, but if it really doesn't bother you then that's obviously your prerogative. Thanks very much for sharing that you've had the issue too: the more data points the better.
My 15" "T" key makes the click when hot. Anyone have luck with a solution? Either a keyboard fix or replacement machine that is flawless?
Sorry to hear that; so far I haven't heard of anyone receiving a replacement that doesn't also have the issue, and I haven't seen anyone do a keyboard replacement and post the results (this is across Macrumors, Apple Discussion, and Reddit), but indeed it's a lot less likely that those people would be on these forums to post about it once their issue is resolved.
When did you receive/order your machine? Since this thread isn't blowing up with people who have the issue, I'm hoping we might be able to pin the cause down to a window of time in Apple's production, or perhaps another attribute (like BTO orders?). I received it on December 16th, and ordered on November 22nd. Mine was a BTO baseline 15" with upgraded 512GB SSD.
I'm getting my replacement BTO machine in ~two days; I'll definitely reply here with the results.
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My 'E' key continues to make a very odd sound when the machine gets warm, so I'm taking it back today. It was the 13" TB with 16GB of memory and the i7 processor.
I don't think it's reasonable to put up with such a distracting noise on an expensive machine like this. I'm not sure whether to persevere with a replacement yet, but this one is definitely going back.
I don't think it's reasonable to put up with such a distracting noise on an expensive machine like this. I'm not sure whether to persevere with a replacement yet, but this one is definitely going back.
Sorry to hear that. When did you receive/order your machine?
Once you get your replacement, let us know if it has the issue as well. To test, you can heat up your machine using the command I posted at the start of this thread.
Edit: also, have you tried shaking it upside down like that other user suggested?
Shaking? Compression air? For a new laptop? What next?
Thank you for your message. I did try compressed air etc., but the noise and slight sticking sensation persisted.
I'll run your test when/if I order my replacement. I'm feeling a bit wary of this release at the moment, but not quite enough to make the painful switch to Windows. The Apple ecosystem has a way of locking you in after a number of years of purchasing applications and the interoperability with iOS.
Okay, thanks very much for the info. I had a suspicion that that fix wouldn't apply to our issue, but I don't have a machine to test it on right now.
very sad to report that my replacement also has a bad key, this time the B key. It's not nearly as bad as my older one's E key but it's definitely noticeable. The worst part is the display - it's noticeably worse than my current one. Much yellower and uneven. REALLY unfortunate. Not sure what to do! 
[doublepost=1482960596][/doublepost]Alright, I absolutely CAN NOT recommend doing this, but I took matters into my own hands and VERY VERY carefully removed the E key from my original MBP. I pressed the actual switch underneath a few times, then put the key back on.... and (crossing fingers!) the noise is GONE! Also, the key still works
SO, if you're brave and/or technical this may be a solution, but PLEASE note - if you break it, you buy it. Apple WILL NOT cover this under warranty! You've been warned...
thanks,
mbezzo
[doublepost=1482960596][/doublepost]Alright, I absolutely CAN NOT recommend doing this, but I took matters into my own hands and VERY VERY carefully removed the E key from my original MBP. I pressed the actual switch underneath a few times, then put the key back on.... and (crossing fingers!) the noise is GONE! Also, the key still works
SO, if you're brave and/or technical this may be a solution, but PLEASE note - if you break it, you buy it. Apple WILL NOT cover this under warranty! You've been warned...
thanks,
mbezzo
very sad to report that my replacement also has a bad key, this time the B key. It's not nearly as bad as my older one's E key but it's definitely noticeable. The worst part is the display - it's noticeably worse than my current one. Much yellower and uneven. REALLY unfortunate. Not sure what to do!
[doublepost=1482960596][/doublepost]Alright, I absolutely CAN NOT recommend doing this, but I took matters into my own hands and VERY VERY carefully removed the E key from my original MBP. I pressed the actual switch underneath a few times, then put the key back on.... and (crossing fingers!) the noise is GONE! Also, the key still works
SO, if you're brave and/or technical this may be a solution, but PLEASE note - if you break it, you buy it. Apple WILL NOT cover this under warranty! You've been warned...
thanks,
mbezzo
Really sorry to hear about your replacement machine, but that's great news about the machine it was intended to replace. Please let us know if the clicking sound returns on your 'E' key (I'm assuming you're keeping your original machine and returning the replacement). Did you notice any difference in appearance before v.s. after pressing the mechanism under the keycap? I have a pretty strong suspicion that a firm key press/heat (or both) causes the little dome under the key to mal-align/deform slightly, producing a loud clicking noise when subsequently pressed. It seems this might be curable by removing the keycap and fidgeting, based on your experiment!
On my side:
I received a replacement machine today (which is actually going to a family member). My family member used the keyboard lightly to setup the machine, and then let me run my tests. I first went around pressing every key ~5 times to see if any had the high pitched click issue. None did. Then, I started heating up the machine using the terminal command I posted earlier. After very warm (10 minutes later), I repeated the click of each key (~10 times each) to see if the high pitched click was activated on any key. None were activated. Immediately afterward (computer still warm), I went through and very firmly pressed each key, holding my finger down for ~1 second. This actually activated the high pitched click on the '9' key. After being activated, even a normal key press caused the high-pitched click noise (most reliably when pressed in the center of the key, lesser so the corners of the key). As expected, once the machine cooled down, the clicking went away.
Regarding other issues people have reported on MacRumors: the screen appears fine to me (no discernible unevenness or yellow hue when displaying white or gray). I did discover a scratch near the speaker in the exact same place others have reported (below the left speaker); it is only visible at narrow angles, so it's almost impossible to discover unless you're looking for it. I did notice a rather large variation in the general sound keys make when pressed: keys near the center of the computer appear to have a louder, more hollow sound while those near the edges seem to be more quiet and subtle. The space bar is very loud.
Quick note: one upside was Apple's impressive delivery time: it took only 6 days from the day I ordered the replacement (BTO) for it to arrive. Hats off.
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Yes! My replacement came a full week before it was scheduled - so that's great.
And yes, I kept the "old" MBP and returned the replacement. So far so good on the key. There was nothing visibly wrong OR that I could tell changed from removing/replacing the key.
Thanks,
mbezzo
Okay, awesome. I really appreciate your bravery. That might turn out to be our fix! Although, I can imagine it's incredibly stressful and difficult to pry off the keycaps (I haven't tried yet), so it's probably not something we want to be doing frequently. Let us know if the sound comes back. I might wait a few weeks to see if there are any improvements before I order a new one for myself (the near-speaker scratch, keyboard sound non-uniformity, and potential screen unevenness are also concerns for me).
But perhaps the best approach is to play the return game (I have the flexibility). Was Apple amenable to you holding onto your original machine while you waited for the replacement, or did you have to fight for it?
Just picked up my replacement, so I'll let you know if the new machine has a similar problem.
I'm typing this on a brand new, as in opened less than an hour ago, 15 2.7 455 512 stock model from the Apple Store. My C and Return key are doing this consistently and the X & / keys sometimes.
I have a perfectly working 13 inch, no keyboard issues, no crashes, no graphics issues but I've been contemplating the 15 (I'm still in the return period for the 13). This is the 2nd 15 I've purchased and I'm about to return. The first one the R key didn't work at all. A percentage of these keyboards have a problem, end of story! I think this is the universe telling me to keep the 13.
Ok, as I was typing this FileVault finished encrypting and the App Store finished installing previously purchased apps and now it's not happening anymore on Return but still happening on C. It must be heat related. Any guesses as to what's under the letter C?
I have a perfectly working 13 inch, no keyboard issues, no crashes, no graphics issues but I've been contemplating the 15 (I'm still in the return period for the 13). This is the 2nd 15 I've purchased and I'm about to return. The first one the R key didn't work at all. A percentage of these keyboards have a problem, end of story! I think this is the universe telling me to keep the 13.
Ok, as I was typing this FileVault finished encrypting and the App Store finished installing previously purchased apps and now it's not happening anymore on Return but still happening on C. It must be heat related. Any guesses as to what's under the letter C?
Great, thanks very much.
Also, just wanted to post yet another video someone has uploaded of the issue occuring on their machine. They also mention in the description that this happens when it gets warm:
Apple only offers a "return it first, then we ship you a new one" option. So, I just ordered a second one knowing it would arrive before the January 8th return end date for my original. This was preferable as I could easily compare them side-by-side. I'd suggest going to a store and opening the box/testing before you leave. Sadly, I've got a CTO config that isn't offered in the stores so that wasn't an option for me. So far so good on the key!
Sorry to hear that you've hit the issue too. Glad to hear that you have a perfect 13", though. Regarding what the issue may be based on the evidence:
Got it. I've seen a few people who have alluded to having two machines at once, so they must have done the same thing. But considering many who have posted here and on the Apple Discussion forum have had this issue on their original machine and their replacement machine, I'd be curious if Apple would allow, as an exception, for a more convenient returning option (specifically for CTO orders). That is, something like: "we'll send you the replacement and if we don't get your old machine within x days of the replacement being delivered, we'll charge you for the replacement". The reason being of course, if your work depends on you having a computer, being without one for multiple 1-2 week periods isn't really an option. I'd be curious if anyone has seen such an exception in the past.
Edit: Ah, this is what I was thinking of (different issue, but I think the same case could easily be made for our key click issue):
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Thanks very much for posting to the thread. So sorry to hear about that; it is good though that your genius bar was willing to try to refit the key. @mbezzo reported that taking the keycap off and pressing the underlying mechanism directly a couple of times actually solved the issue (at least temporarily, it's only been a day since that discovery), so perhaps if the clicking noise continues on your new keyboard, you can ask the genius bar to try that for you (I think that way you'd be covered if they broke a key, but double check).
Sometimes it does seem that way! Glad that you haven't been plagued by this issue so far. Frankly, from my brief time owning it, the new machine seems absolutely wonderful, which makes these manufacturing defects all the more frustrating. The screen was beautiful, the smaller footprint very welcome, and the speakers boomed.