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802.11ac and BT 4.2 are here for unibody MBPs and A1342 MB!
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Does anyone have the OWC data doubler and if so, could they measure the width of the cut-out in the aluminum, indicated by the double red arrow in this screenshot? I want to know the width to see if the WiFi card can straddle the opening with 3M transfer tape and not fall through.
Thank you!
Thank you!
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Wonderful! Just let me know once you are ready! MagnusWireless cards have shipped; I should have them within a week.
Judging by the positivity of this thread, it seems like the initial 20 units will go fast!
Update for A1278/13" MBP: This post is a guide to remove the subwoofer assembly from the wiring harness.
You will need a sharp, pointed instrument to remove the pins from the plug that mates to the header on the motherboard, as well as a cutting tool to cut back the heatshrink tubing. I used a pair of flush cut/trim snips used in trimming component leads in electronics for both purposes.
The subwoofer wires are the two most right black and red wires (looking at the wires with the fan above them orientation)
First, use the sharp tip of the tool to press down on the raised metal tab of the pin (gold color) while pulling back simultaneously on the wire in order to remove it from its housing. Repeat the process on the remaining wire. Make sure to pull the wire as close as possible to the plug while also pushing against the plug at the same time; this is so the forces cancel each other out, as you don't want to damage the plug or header on the motherboard.
Next, trim back the heatshrink tubing slowly and delicately so that you can separate the subwoofer wires from the bundle. The heatshrink that you are removing is what bundles the subwoofer and right speaker subassembly wires together. The subwoofer and right speaker wires each have their own heatshrunk bundle, do not cut into those! Unfortunately, I don't have a 'before' photo of the heatshrink still on the cables.
Unscrew the subwoofer and remove it from your MBP.
You will need a sharp, pointed instrument to remove the pins from the plug that mates to the header on the motherboard, as well as a cutting tool to cut back the heatshrink tubing. I used a pair of flush cut/trim snips used in trimming component leads in electronics for both purposes.
The subwoofer wires are the two most right black and red wires (looking at the wires with the fan above them orientation)
First, use the sharp tip of the tool to press down on the raised metal tab of the pin (gold color) while pulling back simultaneously on the wire in order to remove it from its housing. Repeat the process on the remaining wire. Make sure to pull the wire as close as possible to the plug while also pushing against the plug at the same time; this is so the forces cancel each other out, as you don't want to damage the plug or header on the motherboard.
Next, trim back the heatshrink tubing slowly and delicately so that you can separate the subwoofer wires from the bundle. The heatshrink that you are removing is what bundles the subwoofer and right speaker subassembly wires together. The subwoofer and right speaker wires each have their own heatshrunk bundle, do not cut into those! Unfortunately, I don't have a 'before' photo of the heatshrink still on the cables.
Unscrew the subwoofer and remove it from your MBP.
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Update for the 13" A1278 MBP:
Since I removed the subwoofer and because the wireless card has to be moved over slightly where the subwoofer used to reside, I extended the prior cut I made on the bottom lid.
Originally, the cut length consisted of the first three vent openings (from the right in this photo), I simply extended it the cut line all the way down to remove the raised lip entirely from the lid. The raised lip length corresponds to the narrow piece of ESD sponge material on the edge of the optical drive; there is no noticeable impact on removing the raised lip from the lid. After performing this mod, the lid fits without issue.
By no means is it a hard mod to do, but I can understand why some people would be hesitant. However, you can't tell the mod was performed when the lid is back on.
Since I removed the subwoofer and because the wireless card has to be moved over slightly where the subwoofer used to reside, I extended the prior cut I made on the bottom lid.
Originally, the cut length consisted of the first three vent openings (from the right in this photo), I simply extended it the cut line all the way down to remove the raised lip entirely from the lid. The raised lip length corresponds to the narrow piece of ESD sponge material on the edge of the optical drive; there is no noticeable impact on removing the raised lip from the lid. After performing this mod, the lid fits without issue.
By no means is it a hard mod to do, but I can understand why some people would be hesitant. However, you can't tell the mod was performed when the lid is back on.
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Thank you, and replied!A poll has now been added to the top of this thread; please vote if you would like an 802.11ac upgrade, as this will help me determine demand.
Thank you!
Magnus
Update for the 13" A1278 MBP:
In an effort to not rely on 3D printed parts, I was able to trim the existing AirPort metal bracket down so that I can utilize the threaded hole where the bottom lid fastens to. All you need to do is cut a straight line, but avoid the threaded hole 'boss' region. This is an easy mod to do.
Photos to show how and where the cut is done:
In an effort to not rely on 3D printed parts, I was able to trim the existing AirPort metal bracket down so that I can utilize the threaded hole where the bottom lid fastens to. All you need to do is cut a straight line, but avoid the threaded hole 'boss' region. This is an easy mod to do.
Photos to show how and where the cut is done:
Excellent - when will the orders be confirmed? Also, IF one needs more a bit later, would you entertain a second run?I ordered some ESD safe hard plastic boxes so that the 802.11ac upgrade can be shipped in for each buyer.
Example stock photo of what the boxes look like:
Best,
Magnus
PCBs are still a few weeks out yet, so I haven't bothered to list them for sale yet, as I want to test it thoroughly.
I'm willing to entertain as many runs/batches as possible until the demand dries up.
I don't, I'm sorry. Just posting updates as production progresses.
No worries. Just wanted to check so I could start to save up or have an idea when the wife asks. Haha.