A few questions about my refurb Mini

[Celerondon]

OP asks above:
[[ Update
5. do I need a surge protector? ]]

Yes, you do.
Every piece of equipment that you have should be run through a surge protector/power strip...

True!
Apple says so right here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/TA26945?viewlocale=en_US
We all should use surge protection for our computers and other connected hardware. The Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers (IEEE) tells us why in this basic guide to surge protection, How To Protect Your House and Its Contents From Lightning.
http://www.lightningsafety.com/nlsi_lhm/IEEE_Guide.pdf

Lightning is not the only threat to your electronics but it is a good one to prepare for.

 

[ixxx69]

to ixxx69

i dont remember ever saying that the mac mini had its own surge protection and doest need one. i think that was someone else. i have 4 apc back ups and smart ups units here. every single computer i own has its own UPS. i would of never said that the power supply doesn't need a surge protector.

you took what tennisproha said and misquoted it and said i wrote it. please delete your post.

My apologies - it's fixed now. As you can see in the tennisproha's post previous to mine that I was replying to, he left a line of your quote code floating there and it got mixed up.

 

[Crosscreek]

1. not what I'm asking.
2. the first link is the processor this Mac is equipped with.

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ah of course, I forgot about them. but will it show me the original original manufacture date?

I checked and it says November 2014 (week 46 2014)… so is that the refurb date or the original manufacture date? I bought it on December 25. I can't imagine they'd still be manufacturing these is November after they discontinued the model in October rt?

I would guess the week the logic board was manufactured...but couldn't say for sure.

----------

What is the difference between manufacture date and refurb date?
I am a bit lost here.

I believe the logic board serial number build date is the manufacture date so if the logic board is changed in refurb there will be a new manufacture date.

 

[Meister]

I believe the logic board serial number build date is the manufacture date so if the logic board is changed in refurb there will be a new manufacture date.

Thank you. This is what I meant.

Correct me if I am wrong, but there seems to be a common misconception about refurb Macs here. Refurb does not mean that is taking a returned machine and simply cleans it, gives it a makeover, issues a new manufacture date and then sells the same old mac again.
A lof, if not most, parts are exchanged. At least that is what people working at have told me. There is therfore only one new manufacturing date and if an app reads out a "original" manufacturing date, then this only applies to the logicboard, unless it was exchanged, too.

 

[GGJstudios]

Refurb does not mean that is taking a returned machine and simply cleans it, gives it a makeover, issues a new manufacture date and then sells the same old mac again.

That's exactly what happens. Read Apple's statements in post #21 again. Refurbs are given a new serial number that identifies them as refurbished, even if the logic board is not replaced. You could also get a new serial number on your new Mac if you have the logic board replaced, even if it's not a refurbished model.

A lof, if not most, parts are exchanged.

That's not true. As Apple clearly states, only those parts that are shown to be defective in testing are replaced, and not all units are returned for technical issues, so many units need no parts replaced. Apple has never stated anything to the contrary. As has been proven countless times, you can't bank on what individual Apple employees tell you, because many of them aren't informed.

 

[tennisproha]

to ixxx69…

My apologies - it's fixed now. As you can see in the tennisproha's post previous to mine that I was replying to, he left a line of your quote code floating there and it got mixed up.

Sorry you two. Idk what happened there. I think the original post I quoted, post #3, is missing some formatting and it carried over when I replied to you. I fixed my post. Apologies for any confusion as well.

 

[tennisproha]

Re #2, Intel Mac Mini's have always used laptop chips. Only Apple knows why they decided to go that way with the overall design, but the obvious benefits for a very small form factor are that the laptop chips have a lower TDP (i.e. they're easier to keep cool in small spaces).

If you're generally interested in benchmarking, that's a whole other topic, but Geekbench is the most popular for general benchmarks.

If you just want to make sure your Mac Mini is performing (speed-wise) the way it should, Geekbench is an easy way to find out (there's a free very limited trial version). If your score is about the same as their benchmark chart, then you're good. If it's significantly lower, than that would be a concern.

The paid version of Geekbench also includes a "stress test" feature.

For a very simple but free stress-test the CPU, there's a popular (for this sort of thing) terminal command for that... google "mac stress test yes". A half dozen instances of the "yes" command should have the fans cranked. You might also want a CPU temperature utility (e.g. iStat) to check that temps are in order.

The "blackmagic speed test" utility is very popular for measuring drive performance.

Ah okay, that makes sense. Interesting to learn Mini's have alway used mobile chips. Did not know that.

Just wanna know that my Mini is up to speed. I'll buy the paid version of Geekbench in that case since it includes 64-bit benchmarking and Stress Tests.
I do know about 'yes' command stressing. Just figured maybe a program might be better designed for the job…

Thanks for the program recommendations. Good to know which ones are worth a download since I'm new to Macs. And thanks for understanding what I was getting at with my questions lol.

True!
Apple says so right here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/TA26945?viewlocale=en_US
We all should use surge protection for our computers and other connected hardware. The Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers (IEEE) tells us why in this basic guide to surge protection, How To Protect Your House and Its Contents From Lightning.
http://www.lightningsafety.com/nlsi_lhm/IEEE_Guide.pdf

Lightning is not the only threat to your electronics but it is a good one to prepare for.

Ah and so they do, buried in their support docs. Thanks for the links!

 

[Yebubbleman]

Bought a 2012 2.3Ghz refurb Mini before the new year. Got a couple questions about the Mini specifically and Macs in general.

1. Just curious, is there any way to find my refurb Mini's original manufacture date? as in when it was originally manufactured, before it was refurbished.

No. The serial number that they use is brand new and can't be traced back to the original product (unless you happen to work in that division of Apple, as I'd imagine, they have a record of it somewhere [still, that's highly likely an internal-only piece of info]). If you look up your serial number, it'll only correspond to the refurbished product.

Exceptions to this include in-warranty swaps (for iPods, iPads, AppleTVs, and sometimes iPhones as well) where looking up the serial number for in-warranty swaps will link back to the product that was originally replaced.

2. Why does this model feature a mobile processor instead of the desktop processor that came out the same month? They both use the same amount of power and the desktop processor is cheaper...

I think you're confusing specs. Laptop processors generate far LESS heat (and traditionally draw far less power from the power supply) than desktop processors. The Mac mini is basically a laptop without the screen, battery, keyboard, and trackpad. If it used a desktop processor, it'd need to be bigger to account for the additional power and thermal requirements.

3. I've read alot of threads making and also discounting the 2012 Mini's CPU heat sinks efficiency issues. cheaper TIM used and whatnot. Is this just a non-issue? Anything I should watch out for or know?

This is the first I'm hearing of it, and I typically keep up with these sorts of things (by which I mean various generational issues with Mac models).

4. whats a good way to test my refurb Mini's performance? just cuz Just wanna see all cores run full steam...

Geekbench will give you numbers you can compare to other computers. It's cross-platform (OS X, Windows, Linux [I think], iOS, and Android). It's fun to compare the resulting numbers with, say, your phone, or your old computer or your work computer.

Update

5. do I need a surge protector? on apple's documentation it says plug in directly to outlet…
(don't want a UPS right not so no thanks on that.)

Thanks everyone. You guys have been a big help in my switch to Macs.

A surge protector couldn't hurt. A simple power strip might be all you need. But if you're really afraid of losing your work in the event of a blackout, then sure, get a UPS. Where I work presently, damn near every machine is hooked up to a UPS, but the usage sort of justifies it.

 

[tennisproha]

Yes, you should have a surge protector for general use wherever you typically have it plugged in. However, if I need to plug in somewhere around the house or on vacation, I don't worry about it.

Yes, you do.

Lightning is not the only threat to your electronics but it is a good one to prepare for.

A surge protector couldn't hurt.

While I'm asking, do you guys mind giving me recommendations for a good surge protector and UPS? I did a little bit of research just now, and i couldnt get any gauge as to which ones offer good, reliable protection. Apparently Belkin and all other warranties suck and most reviews say horrible and excellent things about all of them on Amazon. I currently have a Cyber Power surge protector. It seems to be fine however the last thunderstorm messed up just my monitor yet the strip lights say all is good… go figure.

I'd have to spend some time learning how surge protectors work and then figure out which brand offers the right specs. I'm hoping you guys can save me some time and help me narrow it down. I live in the 'burbs. The develpment is about 8 years old. We get fiber/cable internet. Power's always stable unless weather disrupts. I'll be connecting my Mini, 32" TV, 2.1 speakers, and Xbox to the strip. I'd like it to have 3-point protection and ethernet protection.

I appreciate any recommendations.

 

[westom]

A surge protector couldn't hurt. A simple power strip might be all you need. But if you're really afraid of losing your work in the event of a blackout, then sure, get a UPS.

If reading what the IEEE brochure says, then a device called a surge protector even makes appliance damage easier. If a completely different device called a surge protector does not exist. The brochure demonstrates this in Figure 8 . A protector too far from earth ground and too close to appliances earths a surge 8000 volts destrutively through a nearby appliance.

A plug-in protector without a properly earthed protector can make appliance damage easier. An IEEE Standard even defines how much protection the other 'whole house' protector does: 99.5% to 99.9% protection. That power strip is for another maybe 0.2% protection.

Even worse is a UPS. Anyone who makes a recommendation by ignoring numbers may be promoting a same. Destructive surges are maybe hundreds of thousands of joules. How many joules does that UPS claim to absorb? Hundreds? A near zero number is sufficient to claim 100% protection in sales brochures and advertising. Then many who know by ignoring facts and numbers will recommend a near zero power strip or UPS. To only protect from surges made irrelevant by protection already inside every Mac

So why does that power strip destroy a nearby appliance with 8000 volts? A protector connected high impedance to earth and too close to appliances can bypass protection inside a TV or Mac. Nothing new here. Facilities that cannot have damage do not use plug-in protectors. They do not even want the fire that can happen.

Instead facilities that cannot have damage connect a protector low impedance (ie 'less than 10 feet') to single point earth ground. Increased separation between protector and appliance increases protection. More numbers. Telcos what their protectors up to 50 meters distant from electronics. Since telco $multi-million computers suffer about 100 surges with each storm. And must not have damage. How often is your town without phone service for four days after each storm?

Informed homeowners spend about $1 per protected appliance to have similar protection from all surges - especially destructive ones such as lightning. Even the IEEE brochure defines two completely different devices called protectors. And show how damage happens when a protector is too close to appliances: Figure 8.

 

[westom]

While I'm asking, do you guys mind giving me recommendations for a good surge protector and UPS? I did a little bit of research just now, and i couldnt get any gauge as to which ones offer good, reliable protection.

Companies with superior reputations provide protectors that actually connect to protection. Belkin's warranty is not only bogus. Belkin does not appear in a list of reputable manufacturers that include Intermatic, Polyphaser, Siemens, Leviton, General Electric, Square D, Syscom, ABB, Ditek, and Keison. Names found on electrical equipment that must not fail. A Cutler-Hammer (Eaton) solution sells in Home Depot and Lowes.

Protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate. Protectors such as a Belkin somehow claim their hundreds of joules will absorb hundreds of thousands of joules? Of course not. Belkin does not claim to protect from a type of surge that does damage. Belkin claims to protect from another and tiny surge that is already made irrelevant by what is inside all appliances.

Belkin or Cyberpower must somehow block what three miles of sky could not. Or must absorb hundreds of thousands of joules. Will never happen according to manufacturer spec numbers.

Your cable TV already has superior protection, as required by code. That hardwire connects low impedance (ie 'less than 10 feet') to single point earth ground. Then hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate harmlessly outside in earth. And not destructively inside and within appliances. Then nobody even knew a surge existed.

Other utility wires cannot connect directly to earth. So we install a 'whole house' protector to do what that hardwire does better. That is how surge protection has been done for over 100 years. Above and reputable manufacturers provide this proven solution.

More numbers. Lightning can be 20,000 amps. So a minimal 'whole house' protector is 50,000 amps. Any protector that fails was grossly undersized; did no protection. Proven protectors remain functional for decades after many direct lightning strikes.

Above manufacturers provide 'whole house' protectors rated at least 50,000 amps. A homeowner is responsible for providing the other and most critical component in every protection system - single point earth ground. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground - that only one 'whole house' protector connects to.

 

[Celerondon]

While I'm asking, do you guys mind giving me recommendations for a good surge protector and UPS?...I currently have a Cyber Power surge protector. It seems to be fine however the last thunderstorm messed up just my monitor yet the strip lights say all is good… go figure.

I'd have to spend some time learning how surge protectors work and then figure out which brand offers the right specs.

...Power's always stable unless weather disrupts. I'll be connecting my Mini, 32" TV, 2.1 speakers, and Xbox to the strip. I'd like it to have 3-point protection and ethernet protection.

You have the right idea except for the part about saving time. It would be best if you invest some time in learning about surge protection. Once you read that IEEE brochure you will realize that we Internet folks don't know too much about surge protection either! You will know that you are ready to choose a surge protector when westom's posts start making more sense. I think that westom knows the subject but his(her?) information is rather dense for a surge protection novice to grasp.

I use a full-featured Belkin but I am in the market for a better device. After some reading you should realize that the unit that you plug your electronics into is simply the last link in a tiered system of surge protection. If your residential system has flaws upstream from your "surge protector" then your small consumer device will not be able to handle the huge voltages that lightning can create inside your home. The booklet also explains how WiFi connections and that "single point earth ground" concept that westom mentioned are critical to protecting your electronics.

 

[westom]

What makes a protector effective was first introduced in elementary school science.

A surge is a direct strike hunting for earth destructively via a church steeple. Franklin simply 'diverted' a surge harmlessly to earth via a lightning rod. A wire so conductive that a massive surge current creates near zero voltage. A massive current times near zero voltage is near zero energy. Near zero energy means no church damage.

Do same for appliances. Lightning striking wires down the street is a direct strike hunting for earth destructively via all appliances. Simply 'divert' a surge harmlessly to earth via a hardwire. A wire so conductive that a massive surge current creates near zero voltage. A massive current times near zero voltage is near zero energy. Near zero energy means no appliance damage.

All appliances already contain protection. Your concern is a surge that might overwhelm existing internal protection. Surge energy (an electrical current) that is not inside a building will not hunt for earth, destructively, via appliances. This is how protection is installed where damage cannot happen - ie your telco CO, munitions dumps, 911 facilities, commercial broadcast stations, etc. They need protection. They implement what absorbs hundreds of thousand of joules - harmlessly. Nothing adjacent to an appliance claims or can do that.

First and foremost - your building earth ground must meet and exceed post 1990 National Electrical code. A single point earth ground is essential so that every incoming utility wire can connect low impedance (ie 'less than 10 feet') to earth before entering a building. Your cable TV and satellite dish should already have that best protection. Protection is what harmlessly absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules on a path that remains outside the building. Nothing inside a building and adjacent to an appliance does or claims to do that.

Your telephone and AC electric will not work if connected directly to earth. So a 'whole house' protector does what a hardwire does better. This completely different device, unfortunately also called a surge protector, does not block or absorb a surge. It connects current harmlessly to earth. To do what Franklin also did in 1752 to protect church steeples.

How surge protectors work was introduced in elementary school science. Only some surge protectors do that. Best protection means a low impedance (ie 'less than 10 feet') connection to earth. And increased separation between protector and appliance.

Effective protection is about where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate. A protector is only as effective as its earth ground.

Every layer of protection is defined only by what absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules. Entire above discussion (including the IEEE brochure) only discusses one layer; a 'secondary' layer of protection.

Your 'primary' protection layer is installed by the utility. Every layer defines where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate. How many joules does a protector or UPS claim to absorb? View Figure 8 to appreciate what the IEEE brochure says.