Leonard,
You have to make this change on the IIS server that hosts OWA. I'd ask your admin about it as the instructions might be quite lengthy. I really cant recommend doing this however as further testing has shown that this prevents ActiveSync clients from being able to synchronize. A guy in my office uses ActiveSync with windows mobile 6.0 and after I turned off NTLM he couldnt sync his Exchange emails, so I was forced to turn it back on. It's really a browser issue.
As for the light mode. We have that enabled i think because that's what I get when I use firefox on the PC and firefox/safari on OS X. Still, I cant even get to that with NTLM enabled, but again, I cant disable NTLM because it messes up our ActiveSync clients it seems.
Catch-22