i have ruled out some things though if it helps out anyone out there trying this, some things that personally tripped me up.
- adapter does not matter (well… get a sintech), nor does it effect the speed of your drive: that is dependent on your model of iMac and how many lanes it can preform. The adapter it is literally a waferboard with gold pins on it connecting to the apple pins; it just adapts it. i read threads with people claiming the adapter fails after a year, but that’s… just stupid, no way that could be a reason why your iMac is kerneling. maybe if you seated it weird i suppose (is that even possible?).
- if you are going to only install the NVMe and rip the HDD out completely (or not put a SATA SSD back in), then leave the sata cable plugged in to the logic board: i just tucked mine under/in the hard drive bracket. Fans blew at max for me when i took mine out; not saying that’s why they blow at max.. but it fixed it for me.
- NVMe choice sort of matters, i guess ive heard that samsung plus drives don’t work well, i’m living proof. BUT, people that tell you “you shouldn’t mess with apples configuration, the OWC Aura works better because the pin out is the same as apple!” aren’t really giving you beneficial info, haha. M.2 Nvme’s will work fine with an adapter, but it’s all up to firmwares at that point, and if the iMac/Macbook wants to collaborate with it or not depending on the drives firmware working alongside the Mac’s bios/OS.
— it sounds like the regular 970 evo seems to work fine, not the plus… even with the firmware update 😔
- use a heat sink for the ssd, apparently they get hot. i used the ‘MHQJRH’ brand on amazon, it barely fit against the inside of the shell lol.
- if you put everything back together and go to turn it on but get no life, check your fan/speaker connectors.. they are small and easy to forget; yes apparently they can stop the computer from starting (which i guess is a good thing!)
that’s about it. it’s been a rocky journey and i WOULD try this again IF in a couple of years the internet gets filled with more information on this swap; for now it’s too scarce. it could be something simple that prevents it from working that i couldn’t figure out, but having to cut adhesive multiple times cause you tested it before sealing it up and it worked great, but when you seal it kernels, is just… cmon.
- also, getting the screen to be flush on the edges and look like factory (no gap at the bottom) is pretty tricky.. take your time, no rush.
this is it for me, i’m moving on; thank you everyone for your suggestions. If anyone figures this out, i’ll be following this thread still. 😋
good luck everyone, cheers