Confused About Printing Images? :confused:

[todd2000]

I've printed about 30 16x20 prints from my Canon 20D sources (8MP, some JPG and some RAW originals), and all the images look fantastic at that size. You'd have to take a magnifying glass to the prints to see the original pixelization from the camera. However, the two prints I made at 20x30 did show signs of pixelization right away, so I've learned not to print that large with my current camera, regardless of how sharp the original photo.

If your camera is only 6MP, you might think of capping the size lower than 16x20, or maybe just trying one or two of your best (i.e. sharpest) images to see the results.

As for using iPhoto... That's the only way I've printed my larger prints. Apple uses Kodak, and they do a very good job. The turnaround isn't exactly speedy, but then I live in Canada so there's a bit of extra shipping time. I'd consider using Futureshop and/or Walmart simply for convenience, but not for anything larger than 5x7 prints.

I don't think you can go wrong printing 11x17 images through Apple's service. Go ahead and try a 16x20 print to see what you get back, and then you'll have a definitive answer for your own satisfaction.

Good luck!

Good to know, I will try a 16x20, and see how it comes out, they are only going to be viewed from a distance, so if it is a bit Pixalated it shouldn't be a huge problem. As for 11x17s those are not an option from iPhoto, or Kodak's site http://www.kodakgallery.com/OrderOverview.jsp?

I normally print everything at home, as my printer does up to 13x19, but I've used Wal-Mart and Sam's Club when I'm far away from home. The Kodak machines are acceptable but not great, even after I've corrected light and colour through Photoshop.

It seems as though the Kodak kiosk's printer has a slight lack of contrast. I can't say how the Fuji machine works because it couldn't find the photos on my card.

I've tried the Fuji Kiosks for 4x6s with my old camera, and they looked very good, odly enough the Kodak Kiosks refused to see the images on my memory card from my old camera, it could tell how many images there were, but couldn't display/print them.

 

[CDailey]

I normally print everything at home, as my printer does up to 13x19, but I've used Wal-Mart and Sam's Club when I'm far away from home. The Kodak machines are acceptable but not great, even after I've corrected light and colour through Photoshop.

It seems as though the Kodak kiosk's printer has a slight lack of contrast. I can't say how the Fuji machine works because it couldn't find the photos on my card.

I never use the tiny Kodak kisok. I always get them done on the giant Fuji machines they have.

 

[compuwar]

I normally print everything at home, as my printer does up to 13x19, but I've used Wal-Mart and Sam's Club when I'm far away from home. The Kodak machines are acceptable but not great, even after I've corrected light and colour through Photoshop.

It seems as though the Kodak kiosk's printer has a slight lack of contrast. I can't say how the Fuji machine works because it couldn't find the photos on my card.

The Kodak systems at W*M appear to be Dye Sublimation (Dye Sub) printers, which don't seem to have the range of inkjets or C41 process printers. I used them for very rough "does this image work?" proofs due to speed in the past but now I've got an EVDO card in my MacBook I tend to go to the regular Frontiers and just pay for 1hr processing, or use a tiny and portable HP inkjet to proof on location.

I tend to make sales off my proofs, but most of my customers are looking at the image, not the detail when making a purchasing decision. Even the Kodaks are good enough for that.

I'd consider using Futureshop and/or Walmart simply for convenience, but not for anything larger than 5x7 prints.

I get good results at 8x10 from Wal-Mart's Frontiers at one particular store where the techs seem to be on the ball. If I choose in-store payment, they'll adjust and reprint if I don't like the output too (if I pay online, that seems to not be an option- weird but true.) I started using them for proofs, but I've recently used them to do some last-minute sales where I was out of a particular image, and matted up in Bainbridge mats, the prints looked great.

 

[bousozoku]

I never use the tiny Kodak kisok. I always get them done on the giant Fuji machines they have.

If the Fuji kiosk would read the card, I might use the big Fuji machines as I've seen those can transmit the image files, but I'm not leaving my cards with them.

The Kodak systems at W*M appear to be Dye Sublimation (Dye Sub) printers, which don't seem to have the range of inkjets or C41 process printers. I used them for very rough "does this image work?" proofs due to speed in the past but now I've got an EVDO card in my MacBook I tend to go to the regular Frontiers and just pay for 1hr processing, or use a tiny and portable HP inkjet to proof on location.

I tend to make sales off my proofs, but most of my customers are looking at the image, not the detail when making a purchasing decision. Even the Kodaks are good enough for that.

I end up printing 13x19 contact sheets. In some ways, it's not as economical but it works. If they need more detail, I can show it to them on the computer.

I even noticed that my Epson CX6400 all-in-one has better contrast than the Kodak machines but it's a matter of lugging a printer all over the country with me. In a pinch, the kiosk will do.

 

[CDailey]

If the Fuji kiosk would read the card, I might use the big Fuji machines as I've seen those can transmit the image files, but I'm not leaving my cards with them.

They do read memory cards. SD, xD, CF, burned cd's, and pretty much any format you can think of. After you upload your photos you can do final prep, like if your dimensions are a little off (like if you wanted 8x10, but the image is actually bigger) you can crop it or shrink it.

Edit: What printer do you use to get 13x19 prints at home?

 

[bousozoku]

They do read memory cards. SD, xD, CF, burned cd's, and pretty much any format you can think of. After you upload your photos you can do final prep, like if your dimensions are a little off (like if you wanted 8x10, but the image is actually bigger) you can crop it or shrink it.

Edit: What printer do you use to get 13x19 prints at home?

Canon i9900, which has been discontinued. I noticed that Staples stores have had clearance deals on them and they're especially great on floor models. Most people won't spend even that kind of money but then, if you're selling 13x19 inch photos, it will pay for itself.

I know that they're supposed to read CF cards but they apparently don't read all of them, unless their machines have been updated. From the other comment, the Kodak machines don't do any better.

 

[CDailey]

Hmm, it does seem to cost a pretty penny, but like you said, it'll pay for itsself.

That's weird about the CF card issue. What brand of CF do you use? I've got a Sandisk and it works perfectly fine.

 

[bousozoku]

Hmm, it does seem to cost a pretty penny, but like you said, it'll pay for itsself.

That's weird about the CF card issue. What brand of CF do you use? I've got a Sandisk and it works perfectly fine.

Two SanDisk, one Lexar. As far as I know, DCIM is a standard folder name for digital camera images since I've seen it created on more than a few devices and cards, including my phone. It could have been my timing and, as I said, a later software update could have corrected the problem.

 

[Zeke]

I use winkflash all the time and love the results. Most places mess with color and sharpness. Winkflash prints it as they get it which is great. I also printed a 20x30 from my 20d with stellar results. I upscaled it to maintain 300dpi and the results are excellent.

 

[compuwar]

I use winkflash all the time and love the results. Most places mess with color and sharpness. Winkflash prints it as they get it which is great. I also printed a 20x30 from my 20d with stellar results. I upscaled it to maintain 300dpi and the results are excellent.

If they're using Noritsu printers instead of Fuji's then you can go to 320 or 400 DPI. Otherwise, 300DPI is the rule of thumb.

http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/additional_profile_questions.htm

 

[ChrisA]

What do you guys recommend?

If you use a place like printroom.com they will work with whatever color space you have embedded in your file, Adobe RGB or the Nikon camer's color space, they convert it. The walmarts of the world just assume all files are sRGB. This lab will also send you an ICC profile for thier pprinters so you can check for unprintable colors in your files

It depends on how much you care that your prints come bac like they looked on your screen. I tend to do a lot of color tweakking and it's a waste of time unless the workflow is all color managed

 

[Abstract]

I have a question. Is there any point to upscaling, really? Say if I was going to print a sharp uncropped photo from a 6 MP Nikon D50, and I wanted to print at......oh.....16 x 20, or 20 x 30 inches, do I just hand them what I have, or do I go into PS and increase the resolution in order to maintain a 200-250 ppi resolution (since this is probably all you'd ever need)? I'd think upsizing is better even though it's guessing. Pixel colour is interpolated anyway, right? Even an original digital photo is created using some guess-work, so upsizing doesn't seem all that bad as long as it isn't done excessively.

And I don't seem to look at an A4 size piece of paper from any closer than 45 cm/1.5 feet/18 inches if I do so in a natural manner, and will usually look from around 60 cm/2 feet, so I'd say that 200 ppi is required, but 250 ppi is ideal for anything around an 8x10 inch photo, not less. This is just in case someone looks at the photo a bit closer than you expect.

I'm going to try printing photos at larger than 8x10 inches, just to see how they turn out. Maybe I'll even try two photos, both 16 x 20 inches in size, using two photos: one being an original 3000x2000 image from my D50, and one being an upsized photo.

 

[bousozoku]

I have a question. Is there any point to upscaling, really? Say if I was going to print a sharp uncropped photo from a 6 MP Nikon D50, and I wanted to print at......oh.....16 x 20, or 20 x 30 inches, do I just hand them what I have, or do I go into PS and increase the resolution in order to maintain a 200-250 ppi resolution (since this is probably all you'd ever need)? I'd think upsizing is better even though it's guessing. Pixel colour is interpolated anyway, right? Even an original digital photo is created using some guess-work, so upsizing doesn't seem all that bad as long as it isn't done excessively.

And I don't seem to look at an A4 size piece of paper from any closer than 45 cm/1.5 feet/18 inches if I do so in a natural manner, and will usually look from around 60 cm/2 feet, so I'd say that 200 ppi is required, but 250 ppi is ideal for anything around an 8x10 inch photo, not less. This is just in case someone looks at the photo a bit closer than you expect.

I'm going to try printing photos at larger than 8x10 inches, just to see how they turn out. Maybe I'll even try two photos, both 16 x 20 inches in size, using two photos: one being an original 3000x2000 image from my D50, and one being an upsized photo.

Unless you're making a billboard, I'd say that there isn't much of a point.

You can stretch a bit and still get a great photo. Smart interpolation really does work but you have to start with something clean anyway.

 

[CDailey]

Haha, there's a 2 page spread about this exact topic in the February 2007 issue of Macworld. I'd type it up, but it looks like everything has already been covered.

 

[Abstract]

I'll check that out. Thanks for the heads up.