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Converting Blu Rays?
- Thread starter gilford
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What HB settings are you using to retain 1080p but get the BD size down?
I'm having ratio trouble amongst other things
I would start with just using the high profile setting and changing nothing. That should result in an encode at full 1080p resolution and size it down some. Of course you can see how that goes and then continue to tweak it after.
Thanks for getting back to me
If I use the high setting on my 40gb rip of Transformers the original 1920x1080 res changes to 1920x800, is that still retaining 1080p quality?
Cheers
Thanks for getting back to me
If I use the high setting on my 40gb rip of Transformers the original 1920x1080 res changes to 1920x800, is that still retaining 1080p quality?
Cheers
The reason for the reduced height is most likely due to handbrake cropping out the black bars in the picture. Hence it not being the same height, but you should not be loosing any resolution, I've been encoding 720p for my iphone 4 using high profile in preparation for my new apple tv's. Which takes the 1080p down to 720p and from a 20+ GB MKV on average down to only like 1-4GB's in space.
Thanks again
How do I get it to keep the black bars though? It wont allow me to check the box "keep aspect ratio"?
To change the aspect ratio, change the anamorphic settings to like strict or none. That should allow you to adjust it more as you'd like.
Tommy,
Do you leave the bit rate setting at 2500?
Also when you set the frame rate to 23.97, are you using the NTSC Film or video setting?
Thanks,
David
Do you leave the bit rate setting at 2500?
Also when you set the frame rate to 23.97, are you using the NTSC Film or video setting?
Thanks,
David
Frame Rate: It depends on what the source is suppose to be. You can check that out in VLC. Usually feature films will be 23.967 NTSC/Film. TV Shows might be 29.97 NTSC/Video or might be 23.967 NTSC/Film.
My suggestion is really to find out what the native rate of your source is suppose to be, then to manually set that rate in handbrake (as oppose to letting Handbrake choose by selecting "same as source").
All of my BluRays and HD-DVD's have been 23.967 NTSC/Film, even HBO TV Shows like John Adams.
Bit Rate: I am encoding for AppleTV and my resulting resolution is 1280x720. For bit rate I use Constant Quality: RF: 20 (I might play with this a bit if I do not like what I see).
My suggestion is really to find out what the native rate of your source is suppose to be, then to manually set that rate in handbrake (as oppose to letting Handbrake choose by selecting "same as source").
All of my BluRays and HD-DVD's have been 23.967 NTSC/Film, even HBO TV Shows like John Adams.
Bit Rate: I am encoding for AppleTV and my resulting resolution is 1280x720. For bit rate I use Constant Quality: RF: 20 (I might play with this a bit if I do not like what I see).
I've got a brand new 2010 Mac Mini, surely that is a competent machine
If you're requiring HB to change the framerate, i.e. converting a 29.xxx fps file to 23.xxx fps, it takes a lot more brain power. I have a 2008 iMac (see sig. line), and it takes 4-8 hours to encode a BD rip to 720p when it's not changing the framerate.
Lucky folks like toommylotto with their new i5s and i7s will be able to scream through encodes a lot faster than you or I.
I've got a brand new 2010 Mac Mini, surely that is a competent machine
Can it simultaneously output audio by HDMI and optical port? I'd like to connect to the TV and my receiver, but I don't turn the receiver on all that often. I really don't want to open System Preferences Sound pane to change audio every time I use the receiver (then switch it back again when done).
Best value for Constant Bit Rate?
Have followed the advice here and on other forums and finally have a repeatable workflow for ripping my blu ray's for apple tv with forced subs and dolby digital surround sound. thanks to everyone for the helpful advice.
I am using the custom anamorphic setting and advanced string suggested earlier in this threads and the resulting videos are beautiful. Question is, I am using 21 for the constanct quality video setting. But I have played around with it and even down to 24 I cannot really tell a difference on my 60" plasma. I am using Avatar and doing a chapter with a decent amount of motion. Anybody else observe the same or do I just need to look closer to see the difference?
Reason I care is I get a significant difference in file size between 21 and 24. The 21 file is just over 6 gig. Would like to save the space if I am not losing any visible quality.
Appreciate any advice you can give, and thanks again for all the great help.
Peter
Have followed the advice here and on other forums and finally have a repeatable workflow for ripping my blu ray's for apple tv with forced subs and dolby digital surround sound. thanks to everyone for the helpful advice.
I am using the custom anamorphic setting and advanced string suggested earlier in this threads and the resulting videos are beautiful. Question is, I am using 21 for the constanct quality video setting. But I have played around with it and even down to 24 I cannot really tell a difference on my 60" plasma. I am using Avatar and doing a chapter with a decent amount of motion. Anybody else observe the same or do I just need to look closer to see the difference?
Reason I care is I get a significant difference in file size between 21 and 24. The 21 file is just over 6 gig. Would like to save the space if I am not losing any visible quality.
Appreciate any advice you can give, and thanks again for all the great help.
Peter
I found a workflow on this thread that works well for me.
http://forum.handbrake.fr/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16784
It takes a while and can probably be shortened but it has worked well so far so I am sticking with it. It works well for forced subs (e.g. Avatar) you want to burn in, but that is it. Doesn't help with soft subs. But I don't mind not having soft subs, have to have forced though.
You mention nightly build fixed the dts issue, what does that mean? Should i not convert the audio to ac3? The workflow in the link converts the audio to ac3 and it seems to work great. When playing the movie I get Dolby on my receiver and it sounds great.
For the handbrake phase I have been using the settings on this thread. But as I mentioned in my post above I cannot see the diff between constant quality 21 and 24. I even tried variable rate avg of 2500 and it looks great. Curious what others see.
Scratch the last comment, I watched the 2500 variable rate and i can clearly see flaws. So I will probably go with Constant quality 23, seems like great quality while minimizing size.
http://forum.handbrake.fr/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16784
It takes a while and can probably be shortened but it has worked well so far so I am sticking with it. It works well for forced subs (e.g. Avatar) you want to burn in, but that is it. Doesn't help with soft subs. But I don't mind not having soft subs, have to have forced though.
You mention nightly build fixed the dts issue, what does that mean? Should i not convert the audio to ac3? The workflow in the link converts the audio to ac3 and it seems to work great. When playing the movie I get Dolby on my receiver and it sounds great.
For the handbrake phase I have been using the settings on this thread. But as I mentioned in my post above I cannot see the diff between constant quality 21 and 24. I even tried variable rate avg of 2500 and it looks great. Curious what others see.
Scratch the last comment, I watched the 2500 variable rate and i can clearly see flaws. So I will probably go with Constant quality 23, seems like great quality while minimizing size.
If you cannot discern any noticable difference and want to save HDD space, just use the higher RF setting. Everyone is going to have their own preferences and will recommended all ranges of settings based on their own tastes. If it works for you, just use it and save some space.
Thanks for the reply. Will probably do that. I just worry about starting a new workflow and finding out after I've ripped tons of movies that in some situations I haven't seen yet there is an issue. But will have to take a chance. I guess my hard drive will benefit from my inability to discern detail
This is a Windows workflow, but I've been searching high and low on these and many other forums to find a MAC way to do this. Just to note, I even tried the Windows way in Fusion, but it did not work. I figure a Mac way would be better anyways. Does ANYONE have a way to burn in forced subs on a Mac? I can't convert my Avatar and Iron Man without one...
If you can find an SRT file for those then you can integrate it with Handbrake's nightly builds.
OK, didn't know that. So when I extract the forced subs from Iron Man using clown_BD, then pass them through BDSup2Sub, then remux those with mkvmerge, Handbrake will burn those?
I've got a blu-ray with interlaced VC-1 video. I'm using Windows 7. I ripped to MKV with MakeMKV no problem.
With playback of the MKV files, I couldn't get any picture, only sound. This was using both VLC Player and Windows Media Player.
I installed Shark Codecs and can get playback, but it's very rough and choppy with WMP. VLC still has no picture.
I used MPEG Video Wizard and have converted different formats of MPG, but the resulting files are still choppy. Even when converting to mp4 with Handbrake, the resulting files look like the choppy VC-1 videos or converted MPG videos.
Anyone know of a good way to convert VC-1 interlaced content, or at least getting it to playback smoothly? H.264 content gives me no problems.
This worked perfectly on my Avatar blu-ray MKV, as well as a couple of other Blu-Rays with forced subtitles.
This is a picture using the above procedure. File plays back perfectly on my Apple devices (iPad, ATV, etc.) and only the Navi parts are burned in:
With playback of the MKV files, I couldn't get any picture, only sound. This was using both VLC Player and Windows Media Player.
I installed Shark Codecs and can get playback, but it's very rough and choppy with WMP. VLC still has no picture.
I used MPEG Video Wizard and have converted different formats of MPG, but the resulting files are still choppy. Even when converting to mp4 with Handbrake, the resulting files look like the choppy VC-1 videos or converted MPG videos.
Anyone know of a good way to convert VC-1 interlaced content, or at least getting it to playback smoothly? H.264 content gives me no problems.
This worked perfectly on my Avatar blu-ray MKV, as well as a couple of other Blu-Rays with forced subtitles.
This is a picture using the above procedure. File plays back perfectly on my Apple devices (iPad, ATV, etc.) and only the Navi parts are burned in:
Just nit picking but your Avatar subs are the wrong color, they should be yellow. What you need to do is in BDSup2Sub under the settings menu select 'Swap Cr/Cb', this will make them look wrong in BDSup2Sub but correct once encoded in Handbrake.
Also the frame you have posted seems to be a lossless 1.6meg PNG file but it looks horriblely compressed and soft, what Handbrake settings did you use? and what bitrate did the file turn out to be?
I've said it before I always use a deblocking setting of -1,-1 in Handbrake because I think Handbrake creates encodes that are far to soft and blurry.