DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[TheCluelessOne]

Thank you @PaulD-UK @Slopes
I've just watched the SnazzyLabs video and I think I might actually splice the cable ribbon instead of soldering so I can replicate the ram door buttons.

On a separate note, is anyone running the 200W PSU with the SA1 without any fans? I wanted to avoid it but I have touched the back of my screen earlier today (after running a couple of hours) and to my surprise it was warm, the board isnt even touching the enclosure. (I do use the 90W PD and use the USB hub)

 

[Jon848]

I have just bought a 2017 5k iMac to start off the project (5k monitor for M4 Mac mini), so far I have successfully removed the display, checked the display panel part number and taped the display back on.

The iMac only cost £115, my No 1 goal is to complete the conversion with the cheapest net spend possible, net zero or even net profit?? (after selling the iMac internal parts)

I already have a pair of really good speakers so I will be removing the iMac internal speakers.

Goals

1. 5k @ 60hz
2. lowest cost possible
3. I would like to be able to use the maximum brightness the display allows
4. keep and use the original iMac power button (if it doesn't add too much extra cost or significantly increase the installation difficulty).
5. I would love to pop in a decent internal webcam (but again, would rather leave it out if it increases cost and difficulty too much)

All I want at the end is a simple, bright, low cost, 5k monitor.

Don't need

- Sound
- Power delivery to other devices
- P3 colour support

The Mac mini I intend to use is base spec M4, 16GB, 256GB

The donor iMac is 2017 16GB, 512GB SSD, display panel - LM270QQ1 (SD)(C1)

Any help would be much appreciated!

 

[jonatans]

On a separate note, is anyone running the 200W PSU with the SA1 without any fans? I wanted to avoid it but I have touched the back of my screen earlier today (after running a couple of hours) and to my surprise it was warm, the board isnt even touching the enclosure. (I do use the 90W PD and use the USB hub)

I have been using SA1 with Mean Well LRS-200-24 211W PSU fan less without any heat issues for over a year ~8h a day. However I mostly uses the DisplayPort input and not USB-C except when I sometimes move my workspace to another room.

 

[Prichard77]

Я только что купил iMac 2017 года с разрешением 5K, чтобы начать проект (монитор 5K для Mac mini M4). На данный момент мне удалось успешно снять дисплей, проверить номер детали панели дисплея и приклеить дисплей обратно.

iMac обошёлся всего в 115 фунтов стерлингов, моя главная цель — завершить переделку с минимальными чистыми затратами, с нулевыми затратами или даже с чистой прибылью (после продажи внутренних деталей iMac)?

У меня уже есть пара действительно хороших динамиков, поэтому я удалю внутренние динамики iMac.

Цели

1. 5k @ 60 Гц
2. минимально возможная стоимость
3. Я хотел бы иметь возможность использовать максимальную яркость, которую позволяет дисплей.
4. Сохраните и используйте оригинальную кнопку питания iMac (если это не приведет к слишком большим дополнительным расходам или значительному увеличению сложности установки).
5. Я бы с удовольствием установил приличную внутреннюю веб-камеру (но, опять же, лучше от нее отказаться, если это слишком увеличит стоимость и сложность)

Все, что мне нужно в конечном итоге, — это простой, яркий и недорогой монитор с разрешением 5K.

Не нужно

- Звук
- Подача питания на другие устройства
- Поддержка цвета P3

Mac mini, который я собираюсь использовать, имеет базовую спецификацию M4, 16 ГБ, 256 ГБ

Донорский iMac — 2017 года выпуска, 16 ГБ, SSD 512 ГБ, дисплей — LM270QQ1 (SD)(C1)

Любая помощь будет высоко оценена!

ябы оставил внутренние динамики, мало ли, вдруг в будущем захотите по HDMI подключить какой-нибудь Xbox

 

[firyana]

Hello,

I have just finished a 5K build after following this thread silently for a while and reading all the messages, so thanks to everyone who helped

• I used the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 board, as I connect it to a Mac mini and do not need PD. However, I tested it for a while with a MacBook Air, and it delivers 65 W without any problems:

~ % system_profiler SPPowerDataType | grep -i 'Wattage'
Wattage (W): 65

• I originally used the stock iMac PSU, but it produced a relatively loud buzzing noise that became quite annoying, so I finally replaced it with a 24 V / 3.75 A power supply
• I kept the original iMac speakers and, surprisingly, the sound is pretty decent when using the crossover kit.
• I followed the ‘German guy on YouTube’ (he is actually Austrian) to solder the stock power button to the controller board and to connect the PSU to the original power connector.
• I used two 3D‑printed parts, one for the controller board and one for the driver board:
  • https://www.printables.com/model/1150633-imac-5k-switch-panel-holder-for-external-display
  • https://www.printables.com/model/814014-imac-to-5k-display-holder
• Brightness can be adjusted with BetterDisplay or MonitorControl, and sound with EqMac
• I am testing the build with tape holding the screen in place for a while before applying the final adhesive strips. The screen gets a little warm where the board and PSU are located, but so far there is nothing to be worried about.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@Jon848
The cheapest option is to use a JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 board, and connect it with USB-C or DisplayPort.
It is an older board, only working at 8 bit 16.7M colour, and with less well-functioning firmware.

The brightest board seems to be the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1, which is a newer board with better 1.07B 10 bit performance.

Using the iMac power button is straightforward.

No DIY internal webcam conversion is better than 'basic'.

 

[TheCluelessOne]

I have been using SA1 with Mean Well LRS-200-24 211W PSU fan less without any heat issues for over a year ~8h a day. However I mostly uses the DisplayPort input and not USB-C except when I sometimes move my workspace to another room.

Any reason why you got the 200W instead of the smaller 150W PSU? I thought people got this for 90W PD

 

[Jon848]

ябы оставил внутренние динамики, мало ли, вдруг в будущем захотите по HDMI подключить какой-нибудь Xbox

I have no plans for this but it sounds like a good idea, I probably wouldn't recoup much from the sale of the speakers anyway. Thanks

 

[Jon848]

@Jon848
The cheapest option is to use a JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 board, and connect it with USB-C or DisplayPort.
It is an older board, only working at 8 bit 16.7M colour, and with less well-functioning firmware.

The brightest board seems to be the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1, which is a newer board with better 1.07B 10 bit performance.

Using the iMac power button is straightforward.

No DIY internal webcam conversion is better than 'basic'.

Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it. Will the brightness be able to be adjusted via the standard Mac brightness keys (F1/F2)?

 

[PaulD-UK]

@Jon848 "Will the brightness be able to be adjusted via the standard Mac brightness keys"

With the JRY--FA1/SA1 board: Yes, with an App (free from Github) like Better Display or Monitor control.
With the cheapest JRY--AA1 board: Maybe not, I don't know if the firmware has had an update to allow the apps to do this.

 

[jonatans]

Any reason why you got the 200W instead of the smaller 150W PSU? I thought people got this for 90W PD

I got it with the intention of using PD but since I had discomfort using the monitor (probably due to degradation in my eye sight previously unnoticed) I wanted to eliminate possible factors like the compression of the signal and used DisplayPort instead.

 

[TheCluelessOne]

I got it with the intention of using PD but since I had discomfort using the monitor (probably due to degradation in my eye sight previously unnoticed) I wanted to eliminate possible factors like the compression of the signal and used DisplayPort instead.

Interesting, I didnt realise there would be any degradation of the signal when using both video and power.

 

[jonatans]

I don’t think the compression is noticeable in daily use.

 

[PtiBeurre]

I'm sharing my build done on a 2015 iMac with the not so popular JRY-W9CUHD-AA1.

The build is quite basic concerning the USBs, Crossovers, Webcam.
The volume/sound is quite good one the AA1, probably sufficient for the great majority.

I used the Original LED mapped to the ON led of the driver board. The color is perfect !
I used a 5D rocket to replace the control panel. I put it through the Ethernet port. The enter/center trigger is mapped to my Type C switch (KVM).

Since I'm using a Mac mini and MacBooks I wanted to be able to switch easily the video and USBs for mouse and keyboard.
I put the TypeC switch as the IO of the screen with some custom 3D prints. And I can easily switch inputs without using the OSD, one press on the nipple do the trick !
Aliexpress Type C switch (I was quite surprised this switch worked).

I tried this setup for a couple weeks, and I can confirm the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 board doesn't need active cooling.
Which gave me a lot of space.

My only issue arise when I updated to MacOS Tahoe : My MBP (M1 Pro) can't connect to the screen, I see it for 2-3 seconds and it disconnects. No issues with me MBA (M1) and Mac mini (M4)...

Am I the only one having issues connecting the monitor since Tahoe ?

Thank you all for the great ressources I found here. I wanted to share my build because I didn't saw the use of the type C switch. (I can't confirm it's working with the 10 bit color tho).
I may make 3D prints to use a vesa mount instead of the original stand. For now I like the retro vibe.

 

[TheCluelessOne]

Has anyone else noticed that the MacBook won’t wake from sleep in clamshell mode when using a USB keyboard that’s plugged into the SA1’s USB hub?

If I try waking it via the keyboard, nothing happens, but if I open the lid or tap the Mac’s power button, it wakes instantly or cycle the power button on the board. I’m assuming the boards USB hub goes into a low-power state and doesn’t pass the wake signal through, but just wanted to check.

 

[maikischa]

I'm sharing my build done on a 2015 iMac with the not so popular JRY-W9CUHD-AA1.

The build is quite basic concerning the USBs, Crossovers, Webcam.
The volume/sound is quite good one the AA1, probably sufficient for the great majority.

I used the Original LED mapped to the ON led of the driver board. The color is perfect !
I used a 5D rocket to replace the control panel. I put it through the Ethernet port. The enter/center trigger is mapped to my Type C switch (KVM).

Since I'm using a Mac mini and MacBooks I wanted to be able to switch easily the video and USBs for mouse and keyboard.
I put the TypeC switch as the IO of the screen with some custom 3D prints. And I can easily switch inputs without using the OSD, one press on the nipple do the trick !
Aliexpress Type C switch (I was quite surprised this switch worked).

I tried this setup for a couple weeks, and I can confirm the JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 board doesn't need active cooling.
Which gave me a lot of space.

My only issue arise when I updated to MacOS Tahoe : My MBP (M1 Pro) can't connect to the screen, I see it for 2-3 seconds and it disconnects. No issues with me MBA (M1) and Mac mini (M4)...

Am I the only one having issues connecting the monitor since Tahoe ?

Thank you all for the great ressources I found here. I wanted to share my build because I didn't saw the use of the type C switch. (I can't confirm it's working with the 10 bit color tho).
I may make 3D prints to use a vesa mount instead of the original stand. For now I like the retro vibe.

I like the RAM Cover board you did. Can you share the 3d print files or better the fusion design file?

 

[larkinwc]

I recently made an ugly DIY mount for a cracked $30 LM270QQ1 and used the cheap $90 display board. The screws on the back of the unit are M1.6, so I used 5mm long M1.6 plus washers and L brackets to affix it to a piece of plywood.

 

[Countable4170]

Legend thanks!

I've managed to successfully install a PSU and properly mount the board using pnwkayers 3d part. I printed my own 3d part for the PSU and cut it down to size, as I need a second screen (and need to do this all over again) I might actually make a more refined mount for the 200w PSU. If anyones interested I can share it.

I've decided I'm gonna make the plunge and solder the keypads power button to the iMac's power button. I don't have a multiple metere and I no longer want to destroy the ribbon cable. Can someone tell me (from the pic) which points I need to solder to?

I'm definitely interested in the 200w PSU mount! I've been slowly trying to create my mine, but finding the time to focus on designing parts instead of printing them is tough.

 

[TheCluelessOne]

I'm definitely interested in the 200w PSU mount! I've been slowly trying to create my mine, but finding the time to focus on designing parts instead of printing them is tough.

I’ve made a better refined one but I haven’t tested the fit yet. I’ve put it online if you wanna tweak it or use it all: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dq6XonzsCXm-imac-5k-psu-mount

 

[VegetarianNachos]

I finished my second 5k DIY Monitor. I won't give too much info on the build since it is essentially the same as my first build found here: VegetarianNachos 1st build

I wanted to see how the base M4 Mac mini drives two 5k displays as well as a USB4 external SSD. It does a very good job.

MacOS calls the displays "iMacPro5k (1)" and "iMacPro5k (2)". The left display is a 2019, and the right display is a 2017. Weirdly, the speakers on the 2017 are louder (at least when I set each to the same percentage in the sound menu). There were subtle differences while building the two displays, and a few very small quirks with the 2017. If I were to do it again, I would only use a 2019 as I have a lot more experience with them.

I think I will wait to do another one of these builds. I would like to see what successor to the R1811 v4 comes out in the future, or the successor to the SA1 board. This was a lot of fun, now I need to go find some other projects to work on. Thanks to all who have contributed to this valuable thread!

 

[PaulD-UK]

@VegetarianNachos
Congratulations, they both look very good.

"I would like to see what successor to the R1811 v4 comes out in the future, or the successor to the SA1 board."
There is already a later board than the R1811, in that it can drive the 2021 24" iMac panel as well as the 27" iMac, plus 8K, but it isn't really a 'successor'...

StoneTaskin New 8K Universal R1815 V2 QUHD Driver Board 7680X4320 DP1

**StoneTaskin Brand New DIY iMac 24-Inch M1 (2021) External Display Conversion Kit** **Model Compatibility:** A2438 / A2439 **Screen Model:** LM235UH1 (SD)(C1) **Resolution Support:** 4.5K / 5K / 8K **Controller Board:** R1815 V2 QUHD **Display Features:** - **Output Resolution:** Up to 7680 x...

stonetaskin.com

Hopefully someone will see active development of the SA1 firmware to overcome the quirks, because it's MediaTek scaler chip is much more 'modern', with an ARM Cortex internal MCU rather than the much older 8051 series MCU in RealTek's boards.

 

[VegetarianNachos]

@VegetarianNachos
Congratulations, they both look very good.

"I would like to see what successor to the R1811 v4 comes out in the future, or the successor to the SA1 board."
There is already a later board than the R1811, in that it can drive the 2021 24" iMac panel as well as the 27" iMac, plus 8K, but it isn't really a 'successor'...

StoneTaskin New 8K Universal R1815 V2 QUHD Driver Board 7680X4320 DP1

**StoneTaskin Brand New DIY iMac 24-Inch M1 (2021) External Display Conversion Kit** **Model Compatibility:** A2438 / A2439 **Screen Model:** LM235UH1 (SD)(C1) **Resolution Support:** 4.5K / 5K / 8K **Controller Board:** R1815 V2 QUHD **Display Features:** - **Output Resolution:** Up to 7680 x...

stonetaskin.com

Hopefully someone will see active development of the SA1 firmware to overcome the quirks, because it's MediaTek scaler chip is much more 'modern', with an ARM Cortex internal MCU rather than the much older 8051 series MCU in RealTek's boards.

That board may be in my future since I do have an M1 iMac . I would like to see the board come down in price (a lot) before I would really consider it for a project. Yes, the SA1 has a lot of promise. It would be nice if someone could start active development on the firmware, and the board could really use 10 W of power to the speakers!

 

[TheCluelessOne]

I’ve made a better refined one but I haven’t tested the fit yet. I’ve put it online if you wanna tweak it or use it all: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dq6XonzsCXm-imac-5k-psu-mount

@Countable4170 I’ve just checked the mount now and the holes align perfectly, however the screw holes for the PSU are a bit smaller than the M4 machine screw size so you'll need to drill through them with a slightly bigger drill bit (unless you want to edit the .stl file)

I've updated to the design so the hole sizes are now correct

 

[TheCluelessOne]

If I were to have the fan always run (when the board is on? but at the lowest RPM possible to keep it quiet what would be the best way to do it?

I’d imagine I’d need buck converter to go from 42v to 12v and a 47Ω resistor, but how do I tell the fan when to turn off and on?

 

[JakoDel]

@PaulD-UK thanks a ton for all the info you've been sharing in this thread. As far as I've understood, the best boards that don't use ancient awfully inefficient chips which require active cooling (absurd if you ask me) are the FA1/SA1. Am I correct or is there anything better, ideally with working volume control? And what quirks are you talking about?