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Does this 4k@120hz tweak work for you?

  • Yes

    Votes: 186 82.3%
  • No

    Votes: 19 8.4%
  • Can not get the right Adapter

    Votes: 19 8.4%
  • Yes, but Apple limit HDR/HiDPI functionality with macOS 14.1 and macOS 15

    Votes: 2 0.9%

  • Total voters
    226

Xithalius

macrumors newbie
Jun 30, 2023
1
2
Confirmed working at 4K@120Hz RGB 4:4:4 10bit with HDR enabled on a LG 50NANO886PB using the Anker 518 USB-C Adapter (8K HDMI, VMM7100) in combination with the Anker Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable (2m).
Wasn't able to flash the adapter using my PC running W11 natively as it didn't detect it (probably due to my MB).
Flashed the adapter successfully using Parallels 18 (trial version) with the VMMHIDTool found in the Microsoft Store as described, on my MacBook Pro 14-inch (2021) running macOS 13.4.1. Thank you all involved!

Will be buying a LG C2 soon and tesing it out on there as well.
 

djlythium

macrumors 65816
Jun 11, 2014
1,170
1,619
View attachment 2219511 Okay, my turn! 😅

• M1 MacBook Pro
• Cable Matters 48Gbps HDMI Video Adapter (201428), which CM says should work for all of this because it's VMM7100.
• Parallels + Windows 11 (all up to date)

The adapter does not show up in Preferences > Devices. Not even my monitor show up. BUT connecting the adapter + an HDMI 2.1 cable (tried a couple, Including one I KNOW runs 4K 120hz) to the Mac makes my LG C2 work just fine.

@AironMan @NGHTCRWLR @davidawolf @eltron Any ideas? What am I missing?

TYIA!

Glad that adapter works! It’d be a great single-plug solution for me. I could never get Parallels to work, and I don’t have access to a PC with usb-c DP alt mode. BUT Cablematters offered to flash the adapter for me! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 I sent it to them, they’ll flash it, then send it back, and it should be GtG. 🤞🏼
UPDATE: Shout out to CableMatters for flashing the adapter for me! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼 Got it back today, and it's plug-n-play on an M2 15" MBA. So, can confirm their HDMI + USB-C Power works perfectly. 4K 120hz full color gamut. Now, I have a single-plug solution!
 

Soardo

macrumors newbie
Jul 1, 2023
2
2
Europe
Glad that adapter works! It’d be a great single-plug solution for me. I could never get Parallels to work, and I don’t have access to a PC with usb-c DP alt mode. BUT Cablematters offered to flash the adapter for me! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 I sent it to them, they’ll flash it, then send it back, and it should be GtG. 🤞🏼
Hi!

How did you get Cable Matters to flash the adapter for you?
Are you located in Europe?

Thank you for your help!
 
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djlythium

macrumors 65816
Jun 11, 2014
1,170
1,619
Hi!

How did you get Cable Matters to flash the adapter for you?
Are you located in Europe?

Thank you for your help!
I am in the US. I contacted CableMatters customer support directly, and told them the issue. I had to send the adapter to them at my own expense ($10), and they sent it back at theirs.

Looking ahead, you might contact them now, and ask if they will directly sell you the same adapter with the flashed firmware. Doing so would eliminate the time in between.
 
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waydabber

macrumors 6502
May 27, 2010
363
273
Has anyone solved the wake issues with the VMM7100?

Mine works perfectly during use, but if I power off my LG C2s, both of them will power up to "No signal". I have to unplug and replug the USB C cables to get them to turn back on. I've tried changing the BetterDisplay settings and they don't seem to make a difference. I'm on Ventura 13.4.

I've set my TVs to not power off for now (screenOff instead of off)

Hi @djrobx,

BetterDisplay dev here. :) Rest assured, I am having the same issues with my Anker VMM7100 (with the modified VMM7100) to a Philips mini-LED TV running at 4K@120Hz. I also have a CM VMM6100 which obviously does the same but probably for different reasons.

BetterDisplay's connection management settings are designed to configure how the display disconnect/connect feature works in the app (when with a multi-display setup you software-disconnect a display and put it to sleep) and should not really be able to solve the issue of a a DP/HDMI device disconnecting itself by other means (I understand these settings are linked in the opening post as something relevant and maybe they are somehow in some rare cases, as some stuff the app does might force reconnecting displays the OS is somehow still aware of while being in a `DisplayIsAsleep` state - these things are handled deep down by the display coprocessor inside the Apple Silicon chip so some magic might happen there which I might not be aware of...).

My theory regarding the no-signal issue is that after a while, when the HDMI device was disconnected, the VMM7100 device somehow goes to a state (?) when it needs a power cycle to start working properly again (hence the need to actually disconnect/reconnect the dongle). But I did not investigate it much. This also seemed to be less of a problem with Ventura on my config, so what I am experiencing might be related to Sonoma beta (Sonoma has some interesting changes regarding how displays are handled, partly probably because they are preparing a deep integration with VisionOS: this is probably the main reason for the revamped screen sharing experience - displays supporting "Dynamic Geometry", Screen Sharing Virtual Display that now even makes the remote screen activate even during boot etc) - these deeper changes are important for seamless and reliable VisionOS access to Macs.

Maybe with a firmware update CM could make an option for a "keep-alive" mode that maintains the last connected HDMI source as active always (imho this would be a great feature generally for these kinds of dongles as this would be a really useful feature in itself (giving them a huge value boost, I am really surprised no dongle maker added such an obvious feature to differentiate their product).

As a workaround on an OLED or mini-LED screen you can simply add a full-black screen screensaver (custom Photos screensaver with a black image for example) which reduces power consumption greatly (on more traditional LED TVs this might also work if they have some kind of "dynamic contrast" feature that can fully turn off backlight on entirely black scenes). I am also thinking about adding an option to BD to have the ability to switch refresh rate on lock screen/screen saver so the display might not run in 120Hz when it's just displaying a blank black image - if it would just switch to 24Hz, it would also add some power draw savings. But how well this works is of course highly display dependent, some TVs do draw a lot of power even when they show nothing on screen

---

UPDATE: did some measurements on my 65" mini-LED TV: full uniform white 1000+ nits draws 200W, 0 nits (black) draws 40W, "screen off" draws 35W, changing refresh rate has no measurable effect on power draw. Tried on a 27" mini-LED monitor as well, 1200nits full screen draws 110W, 0nits full screen draws 30W. Refresh rate reduction from 144Hz to 50Hz provides an additional 5W savings. Based on these results, turning off a screen or putting it to sleep mode is definitely better for power consumption (this draws about 1W both for the TV and the monitor) than full black screen or using the "screen off" feature. But for an instant wake experience and avoiding various "no signal" issues, running the display with a blank black screen (0 nits) might still be a viable compromise with mini-LED (and probably OLED) displays (the electricity cost of this is about 15 cents a day, USD 4-5 per month). Since there is marginal difference between "screen off" and simply using a blank screensaver, the latter seems to be better since that way one does not have to hassle with the remote of the TV and can simply use the Mac for instant wake. This also requires the Mac to be powered all the time, but since Apple Silicon is so efficient, it also might be reasonable.
 
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ryanthom100

macrumors member
Sep 7, 2022
31
39
So I updated my firmware to the one in the OP, I am using the cable matters hdmi 2.1 to usb c cable here: https://amzn.eu/d/52UyJkX. I have managed to get 4k 120hz working on my m1 macbook pro. But it takes so long for my lg c2 42 to detect the signal, probably over 5 minutes. Is there any fix for this?
 
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Activity3565

macrumors newbie
Jun 21, 2023
2
2
Confirmed working on Dell WD22TB4. Both usb c -> hdmi and dp -> hdmi work on this dock.

What was updated in the firmware to allow for DP -> HDMI 2.1 to work on Mac?
 
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tman2damax

macrumors newbie
Jun 28, 2023
11
6
So I updated my firmware to the one in the OP, I am using the cable matters hdmi 2.1 to usb c cable here: https://amzn.eu/d/52UyJkX. I have managed to get 4k 120hz working on my m1 macbook pro. But it takes so long for my lg c2 42 to detect the signal, probably over 5 minutes. Is there any fix for this?
I have an M2 Air and LG C2, got this working with the Cable Matters adapter + separate HDMI 2.1 cable and have no issues like that. Everything has been surprisingly flawless. Are you on the latest macOS update 13.4? Being on an old version seems to be affecting some people. I also reached out to Cable Matters to get their official firmware to enable this functionality, honestly not sure if it differs from the one provided in this thread, but I flashed that and everything is still working perfectly, they state that it works with their adapters and the cable you're using as well. You can download it here: https://we.tl/t-k4kRXujdbA, and try a reflash.
 
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tman2damax

macrumors newbie
Jun 28, 2023
11
6
Has anyone gotten a direct USB-C to HDMI cable working? I have a Belkin cable and was pleased to see it was detected as VMM7100. I have an M2 Air running parallels and trying to flash the .112 firmware just seemed to 'fry' my cablem it's still detected as connected, but absolutely no display. Tried on multiple different macs and a windows computer and the cable just seems dead now. Would a custom firmware need to be written for it to work properly? This is the FW info I get out of it after flashing the updated firmware:
View attachment 2225457
Didn’t end up getting that Belkin cable to work. Contacted their support about it and unsurprisingly no reply, guessing they’re not as keen on users hacking their products like Cable Matters is. Got the Cable Matters adapter recommended in the OP and a Monoprice slim 3ft 2.1 cable and everything worked flawlessly. Getting full 120hz 10-bit on my LG C2 🥳.

I also contacted Cable Matters support per this article to get their official firmware to enable this functionality and reflashed that just for peace of mind (honestly not sure if it even differs at all from the firmware provided in the OP). They state it works across all their HDMI 2.1 adapters, including their direct USB-C to HDMI cable. Here is the download link they provided. Not sure why you need to contact support to get it, unless they don’t want too many users tinkering with and potentially bricking their products or because this hack is still in beta. But huge shoutout to them for providing this support officially! Will definitely be buying more of their products in the future.
 
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Stokkes

macrumors member
Sep 24, 2007
63
35
Hi all,

About to pull the trigger on the C2 (or maybe C3, TBD) primarily due to recent partial vision loss.. We bought an OLED for the living room and it helps immensly (contrast, etc. easier to read than LED). The big size helps as well, which is why I am heavily leaning towards the 42 as it's the biggest OLED that people have experience using with a Mac that you can buy and I need to replace my existing monitor quickly.

But I have some questions to validate before.. if someone could confirm I'd really appreciate it.

1. I move around a lot between work/home, I read about issues where disconnecting/reconnecting the MBP and having to reset the LG input settings everytime, which would be a show stopper for me, is this still an issue?
2. I heard a recent LG firmware update about 1-2 months ago makes disabling the TPC in the service menu less effective (meaning I've read some people still experience dimming when TPC is off)
3. I have no access at all to a Windows PC, so flashing the Anker 518 in Parallels, I'm seeing some people have issues, is it hit or miss? I am not even convinced I need 4K@120 since I won't be gaming, etc. This mac is primarily office work.
4. Auto-sleep, auto-wake, etc.. is this working relatively well? Any quirks I need to be very aware of before diving in?

Thanks all, hope to move to this to help my daily use of my Mac now.
 
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craigbeat

macrumors newbie
Jul 7, 2023
1
1
I would just like to add some information in this thread so that, perhaps, the BetterDisplay team have more info, or that other people who are having issues might be able to benefit.

  • I have the 6100 based version of the dongle and am using a Samsung Q80T on HDMI 4 which has the 2.1 4k 120Hz HDR support
  • I also have a Lytmi 3 Sync Box that is kinda like the Philips Hue Sync Box, but supports HDMI 2.1 including 4k 120Hz HDR
  • When I was initially setting this up, I was having issues getting it to work, but found, like others have, some cables are better than others
  • Initially, I was going direct to the TV and not through the sync box, and what I found was that, if I set BetterDisplay to 60Hz first, unplugged the dongle, then plugged it back in (with the HDMI cable attached), I could then switch to 120Hz, and the picture would immediately show at 120 on the TV, but switching HDR on would show 'No Source', meaning I had 4k 120Hz without HDR
  • Eventually I gave up on HDR, and set it all back up through the Lytmi box. Everything worked exactly as in the previous step when following the sequence
  • Just to see what would happen, I thought I'd try HDR again, and sure enough - no signal. Except, this time I had something extra - because I was using the Lytmi Sync Box, I could see the colours of my desktop shining behind the TV. I tried doing swiping gestures, and could see the colours change, so clearly a signal was being sent
  • I then noticed a post from above where somebody mentioned that leaving the TV on for a few minutes eventually got it all working. I left it for about 7 or 8 minutes, and sure enough, the screen came on and I had 4k 120Hz HDR!
The interesting thing here is that the Lytmi Sync Box was getting and understanding the signal where the Samsung TV was not, so I am just wondering if there is some other step or improvement that could be done somewhere, that would get around this issue.
 
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neuromask

macrumors newbie
Oct 28, 2021
12
9
Flashed via Parallels in MacOS. Works! Thank you!

Macbook pro M1 16, LG C2 42"
120hz RGB 10bit
 

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spinedoc77

macrumors G4
Jun 11, 2009
11,488
5,413
FYI I got this to work on my 8gb M2 Mini / LG CX with some caveats. Due to the 6k frame buffer I can only get 3072 x 1728 120hz 10bpc with HDR, which is more than fine and I'm thrilled. Also the Amazon cable referenced here did NOT work, that's what I was butting my head up against. The same cable works perfectly in Windows 4k 120hz 10bpc HDR, but on the Mini would not go over 4k 60hz 8bpc HDR, weird, I guess the Mini is more sensitive. Anyway I used this cable I had on my Windows PC which worked well to achieve the 120hz.

Also another caveat is because of the 6k frame buffer, I can't get my 2nd monitor to 4k 60hz, which is no biggie. Max I can get the 2nd monitor is 1440p 60hz 10bpc. I barely look at it anyway so am more than happy to get 120hz on the main monitor!
 
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tman2damax

macrumors newbie
Jun 28, 2023
11
6
Hi all,

About to pull the trigger on the C2 (or maybe C3, TBD) primarily due to recent partial vision loss.. We bought an OLED for the living room and it helps immensly (contrast, etc. easier to read than LED). The big size helps as well, which is why I am heavily leaning towards the 42 as it's the biggest OLED that people have experience using with a Mac that you can buy and I need to replace my existing monitor quickly.

But I have some questions to validate before.. if someone could confirm I'd really appreciate it.

1. I move around a lot between work/home, I read about issues where disconnecting/reconnecting the MBP and having to reset the LG input settings everytime, which would be a show stopper for me, is this still an issue?
2. I heard a recent LG firmware update about 1-2 months ago makes disabling the TPC in the service menu less effective (meaning I've read some people still experience dimming when TPC is off)
3. I have no access at all to a Windows PC, so flashing the Anker 518 in Parallels, I'm seeing some people have issues, is it hit or miss? I am not even convinced I need 4K@120 since I won't be gaming, etc. This mac is primarily office work.
4. Auto-sleep, auto-wake, etc.. is this working relatively well? Any quirks I need to be very aware of before diving in?

Thanks all, hope to move to this to help my daily use of my Mac now.
I have an M2 Air + LG C2 + this method working to get full 4k 10-bit 120hz.
  1. This has not been an issue for me, disconnecting from the USB-C laptop end does not reset any TV settings, only disconnecting HDMI from the TV end will have the TV "forget" it's configuration and require you to reconfigure. So set it and forget it.
  2. I use the ISF Dark Space image preset at 25% brightness and that's so dim that I never see, or at least never notice, any auto dimming that the TV is doing. Dimming is very aggressive for HDR content, but I keep my output in SDR because most web content does not look correct in HDR. This is more than enough brightness for me to use my display comfortably as I don't like screens blinding me anyway like some people do, it's the perfect brightness for my space.
  3. I was able to flash via parallels with no issues. You get a 14 day trial as well so no expense to this either. 4k 120hz is absolutely not necessary for what I'm doing either (web browsing, light photo editing, media consumption), but I wanted to get this working out of principle, there's no reason my machine can't output it and my display supports it, might as well get the most out of these expensive things I have. 120hz is so silky smooth on OLED and very pleasing to the eyes, you'll very much appreciate it in all the little animations and such everywhere and even just moving the mouse around. I do all my 120hz gaming on my Series X hooked up to the same display.
  4. Using a TV as a monitor will always be tricky because of this. The way I have mine setup because my laptop remains docked 99% of the time is having a black screen screensaver start after a couple minutes and have the display stay on for the max 3 hours in settings. That way I just turn the TV on at the start of the day and only have to turn it back on once or twice as it'll just wake instantly from the screensaver, then after a few hours it'll power itself down at night. Or you could choose to never sleep the display if you want it to always be instantly ready. There are methods around this like this method using the wake on lan capability, but my system is non-intrusive and not that frustrating once you get used to it.
 

Stokkes

macrumors member
Sep 24, 2007
63
35
I have an M2 Air + LG C2 + this method working to get full 4k 10-bit 120hz.
  1. This has not been an issue for me, disconnecting from the USB-C laptop end does not reset any TV settings, only disconnecting HDMI from the TV end will have the TV "forget" it's configuration and require you to reconfigure. So set it and forget it.
  2. I use the ISF Dark Space image preset at 25% brightness and that's so dim that I never see, or at least never notice, any auto dimming that the TV is doing. Dimming is very aggressive for HDR content, but I keep my output in SDR because most web content does not look correct in HDR. This is more than enough brightness for me to use my display comfortably as I don't like screens blinding me anyway like some people do, it's the perfect brightness for my space.
  3. I was able to flash via parallels with no issues. You get a 14 day trial as well so no expense to this either. 4k 120hz is absolutely not necessary for what I'm doing either (web browsing, light photo editing, media consumption), but I wanted to get this working out of principle, there's no reason my machine can't output it and my display supports it, might as well get the most out of these expensive things I have. 120hz is so silky smooth on OLED and very pleasing to the eyes, you'll very much appreciate it in all the little animations and such everywhere and even just moving the mouse around. I do all my 120hz gaming on my Series X hooked up to the same display.
  4. Using a TV as a monitor will always be tricky because of this. The way I have mine setup because my laptop remains docked 99% of the time is having a black screen screensaver start after a couple minutes and have the display stay on for the max 3 hours in settings. That way I just turn the TV on at the start of the day and only have to turn it back on once or twice as it'll just wake instantly from the screensaver, then after a few hours it'll power itself down at night. Or you could choose to never sleep the display if you want it to always be instantly ready. There are methods around this like this method using the wake on lan capability, but my system is non-intrusive and not that frustrating once you get used to it.

Wow, thank you so much for the detailed response, it really helps! I think I'm sold, just going to wait for Prime day and see if they drop a bit more.

On the brightness, I think that may be my last bit of a concern, I will want it as bright as possible. The OLED we bought for the living room is the Samsung S95B and it's retina-burning bright, which with these new vision issues I'm experiencing reduces (odd right?) eye strain. I did the the C2 in a best buy today (they did not have a 42 or I may have just picked it up) and in the showroom is seemed plenty bright when sitting about 30" away from the screen, but showrooms are not a good measuring stick.

Good tip on leaving it in SDR, unlikely needed for desktop/productivity work which is what I'll use it for almost 100% of the time.

And great tip for the black screensaver, that's a great idea! Is the 3-hour display setting on in the macOS setting or the LG's setting? I figure it's the Mac and the display power off setting time, but just want to confirm. This will work perfectly because I'll turn it on with the remote in the morning and leave it on until 4-5pm.. awesome.

Appreciate it!
 

tman2damax

macrumors newbie
Jun 28, 2023
11
6
Wow, thank you so much for the detailed response, it really helps! I think I'm sold, just going to wait for Prime day and see if they drop a bit more.

On the brightness, I think that may be my last bit of a concern, I will want it as bright as possible. The OLED we bought for the living room is the Samsung S95B and it's retina-burning bright, which with these new vision issues I'm experiencing reduces (odd right?) eye strain. I did the the C2 in a best buy today (they did not have a 42 or I may have just picked it up) and in the showroom is seemed plenty bright when sitting about 30" away from the screen, but showrooms are not a good measuring stick.

Good tip on leaving it in SDR, unlikely needed for desktop/productivity work which is what I'll use it for almost 100% of the time.

And great tip for the black screensaver, that's a great idea! Is the 3-hour display setting on in the macOS setting or the LG's setting? I figure it's the Mac and the display power off setting time, but just want to confirm. This will work perfectly because I'll turn it on with the remote in the morning and leave it on until 4-5pm.. awesome.

Appreciate it!
For the brightness, having the screen be too dim can definitely be straining, my office is rather dimly lit and doesn't get much natural light so you just have to dial that in for whatever works for you. The 3 hour on display limit is a macOS setting. The display will auto power off after a few minutes of no signal, not sure you can change that.
 

chargerinthebox

macrumors member
Jul 9, 2023
41
20
Recently got a 16 inch M2 Max 32 GB / 1 TB.

And I was wondering why I couldn't do 4k / 120 hz with the thunderbolt dock I had while my previous AMD ultrabook could do 4k / 120 hz easy with the same hub.

The tweaks in the forum helped me get around that and now I get 4k/120 with modified EDID.

TV: LG C148
Laptop: M2 Max 32 GB / 1 TB
Hub/Dock: CableCreation 6 in 1 dock: https://amzn.eu/d/ati5GW5

VMM6100 firmware. I have attached the original firmware, original EDID and modified EDID.
 

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Stokkes

macrumors member
Sep 24, 2007
63
35
For the brightness, having the screen be too dim can definitely be straining, my office is rather dimly lit and doesn't get much natural light so you just have to dial that in for whatever works for you. The 3 hour on display limit is a macOS setting. The display will auto power off after a few minutes of no signal, not sure you can change that.

Perfect, think I'm sold.. waiting a few days to see if any go on sale for Prime Day. Thanks for brightness answer, that should work swimmingly.
 

Stokkes

macrumors member
Sep 24, 2007
63
35
Getting my C2 42" today. Found a like new on Amazon warehouse deals. Already flashed the firmware on the Anker adapter, worked beautifully and was easy so thanks for this!

Will report back when I get it setup. Woohoo!!
 

Stokkes

macrumors member
Sep 24, 2007
63
35
Update 9pm EST: WORKING

I flashed the wrong firmware (how embarassing). Didn't realize there were 2 VMM7100 zip files. Re-flashed the correct one and boom, 4K/120Hz. Found some youtube videos on how to properly set the settinsg to get the biggest pop. Not quite there yet but a remarkable improvement from when I initially plugged it in.

Really appreciate all the effort that went into this!

[Erasing previous text...]
 
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neuromask

macrumors newbie
Oct 28, 2021
12
9
Recently got a 16 inch M2 Max 32 GB / 1 TB.

And I was wondering why I couldn't do 4k / 120 hz with the thunderbolt dock I had while my previous AMD ultrabook could do 4k / 120 hz easy with the same hub.

The tweaks in the forum helped me get around that and now I get 4k/120 with modified EDID.

TV: LG C148
Laptop: M2 Max 32 GB / 1 TB
Hub/Dock: CableCreation 6 in 1 dock: https://amzn.eu/d/ati5GW5

VMM6100 firmware. I have attached the original firmware, original EDID and modified EDID.
Doesn't Macbook 16 M2 have HDMI 2.1 port from the box? Or do you need one TB dock with all the connections?
 
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