Despite my better judgement in bringing this up here, there are quick and easy solutions for the "Midnight fingerprint issue" for those of you concerned about such things, and can follow instructions and take responsibility for your actions.
And, there is also an easy solution for those of you worried about (inevitable) wear on the ports. I have mentioned these in other threads but hope this will be helpful to those who haven't seen them.
Preface: I have over 30 years experience designing and developing consumer and industrial goods including items with anodized finishes, and am a global consultant to several well known companies (not Apple, if you are wondering) in the areas of product design, manufacturing, and related areas. If you are involved in certain sports or recreational activities, you very likely use something I have worked on. But this advice is given at your own risk. You do not have to trust me.
Disclaimers: Use common sense. I won't be responsible for stupidity like gobs of wax stuck in your keyboard or a corroded connector because you can't follow a simple instruction set.
Don't even think about trying this if you are some psycho, OCD individual, stupid, or can't follow instructions. Stop reading this now and go do something else. Go watch a Japanese YouTube cat-playing-with-cardboard-box video or something.
With that out of the way...
1. Fingerprints
Some finishes, like the partially-sealed, semi-matte finish of the Midnight MBA, will always easily show fingerprints through their combination of high surface energy, morphology and color. If you clean these surfaces with any sort of oil-removing cleaner, or even water, the surface is 'activated' and will be even easier to mark up with fingerprints and dirt.
The solution is to reduce the surface energy. Same principle as in the oleophobic finishes applied to phone screens.
One easy, consumer-accessible answer is a light coating of a oleophobic polish, like Plexus, or orange Pledge, or for a longer lasting solution, a nano-wax, such as Renaissance Wax. This provides a protective coating which is safe on anodized surfaces. Usually.
Renaissance Wax is used by some museums to preserve artifacts and protect from handling and oxidation, and is also very popular among some gun owners concerned about the corrosive effects of fingerprints on blued steel surfaces.
In my case, I simply put a very thin coat of Renaissance Wax on the metal surfaces (not the screen) of my new M2 Midnight MBA with a soft microfiber cloth, and then immediately lightly polished the surface. Then, I repeated the procedure one time. Do not let it dry out before you polish. Do a small area on the bottom first to see if you can live with the result.
This results in a thin coating which has no negative impact on the appearance of the device, but creates a low-energy surface (which is especially nice on the trackpad due to reduced stiction) and, most importantly, dramatically decreases both the adhesion and the appearance of fingerprints, reduces dust adhesion, and repels dirt. It makes it extremely easy to clean, and significantly cuts down on the appearance of the fingerprints in the first place.
It also seals and protects areas like the wrist rests from acidic sweat or other contaminants that will certainly show wear over time if left in the as-manufactured state.
No need to go nuts on the quantity of wax per application, as a little bit goes a very long way. And if in the unlikely event you're unhappy with the result, you can remove it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol on a very slightly damp microfiber cloth.
(Usual disclaimers apply here- I won't be responsible for stupidity like gobs of wax stuck in your keyboard, or turning your MacBook into a flambé, because you can't follow a simple instruction set.)
2. Port wear
Inevitably, over the next few weeks many people- even non-ham-handed ones- will scratch or ding the edges of the USB-C ports on the Midnight MBA, or even parts of the case. Much shrieking and moaning will be heard throughout the land and there will be innumerable threads about it on MR.
USB-C connectors can range from well-radiused (as they ought to be) at their leading edges, to positively sharp (looking at you, little Samsung 256 GB USB-C 3.1 memory stick).
Now, even a hard-coat anodize is prone to damage on a sharp corner, and the ports have sharp corners- they aren't chamfered or radiused, and this is a relatively soft type 2 anodize, so they will get dinged. It is inevitable. (They perhaps should have put in collared connectors, like on the phones, or broken those edges, but I digress).
Since you can't re-anodize the case, and a black Sharpie will look like total crap, what can you do about it?
You can use one of these. CAREFULLY. These are poisonous. They will destroy your computer if you are stupid. They will kill or maim you or something you care about if you are stupid. Don't be stupid.
This will chemically convert the silver ding to a blue-black, without damaging the surrounding anodize finish. In the case of a port, you do not want to aggressively push the tip of the applicator into the port- this is an acidic formula and you don't want to get it into the connector- but properly applied, with a light touch, it will blacken any silver marks and provide a long-lasting solution.
/end
And, there is also an easy solution for those of you worried about (inevitable) wear on the ports. I have mentioned these in other threads but hope this will be helpful to those who haven't seen them.
Preface: I have over 30 years experience designing and developing consumer and industrial goods including items with anodized finishes, and am a global consultant to several well known companies (not Apple, if you are wondering) in the areas of product design, manufacturing, and related areas. If you are involved in certain sports or recreational activities, you very likely use something I have worked on. But this advice is given at your own risk. You do not have to trust me.
Disclaimers: Use common sense. I won't be responsible for stupidity like gobs of wax stuck in your keyboard or a corroded connector because you can't follow a simple instruction set.
Don't even think about trying this if you are some psycho, OCD individual, stupid, or can't follow instructions. Stop reading this now and go do something else. Go watch a Japanese YouTube cat-playing-with-cardboard-box video or something.
With that out of the way...
1. Fingerprints
Some finishes, like the partially-sealed, semi-matte finish of the Midnight MBA, will always easily show fingerprints through their combination of high surface energy, morphology and color. If you clean these surfaces with any sort of oil-removing cleaner, or even water, the surface is 'activated' and will be even easier to mark up with fingerprints and dirt.
The solution is to reduce the surface energy. Same principle as in the oleophobic finishes applied to phone screens.
One easy, consumer-accessible answer is a light coating of a oleophobic polish, like Plexus, or orange Pledge, or for a longer lasting solution, a nano-wax, such as Renaissance Wax. This provides a protective coating which is safe on anodized surfaces. Usually.
Renaissance Wax is used by some museums to preserve artifacts and protect from handling and oxidation, and is also very popular among some gun owners concerned about the corrosive effects of fingerprints on blued steel surfaces.
In my case, I simply put a very thin coat of Renaissance Wax on the metal surfaces (not the screen) of my new M2 Midnight MBA with a soft microfiber cloth, and then immediately lightly polished the surface. Then, I repeated the procedure one time. Do not let it dry out before you polish. Do a small area on the bottom first to see if you can live with the result.
This results in a thin coating which has no negative impact on the appearance of the device, but creates a low-energy surface (which is especially nice on the trackpad due to reduced stiction) and, most importantly, dramatically decreases both the adhesion and the appearance of fingerprints, reduces dust adhesion, and repels dirt. It makes it extremely easy to clean, and significantly cuts down on the appearance of the fingerprints in the first place.
It also seals and protects areas like the wrist rests from acidic sweat or other contaminants that will certainly show wear over time if left in the as-manufactured state.
No need to go nuts on the quantity of wax per application, as a little bit goes a very long way. And if in the unlikely event you're unhappy with the result, you can remove it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol on a very slightly damp microfiber cloth.
(Usual disclaimers apply here- I won't be responsible for stupidity like gobs of wax stuck in your keyboard, or turning your MacBook into a flambé, because you can't follow a simple instruction set.)
2. Port wear
Inevitably, over the next few weeks many people- even non-ham-handed ones- will scratch or ding the edges of the USB-C ports on the Midnight MBA, or even parts of the case. Much shrieking and moaning will be heard throughout the land and there will be innumerable threads about it on MR.
USB-C connectors can range from well-radiused (as they ought to be) at their leading edges, to positively sharp (looking at you, little Samsung 256 GB USB-C 3.1 memory stick).
Now, even a hard-coat anodize is prone to damage on a sharp corner, and the ports have sharp corners- they aren't chamfered or radiused, and this is a relatively soft type 2 anodize, so they will get dinged. It is inevitable. (They perhaps should have put in collared connectors, like on the phones, or broken those edges, but I digress).
Since you can't re-anodize the case, and a black Sharpie will look like total crap, what can you do about it?
You can use one of these. CAREFULLY. These are poisonous. They will destroy your computer if you are stupid. They will kill or maim you or something you care about if you are stupid. Don't be stupid.
Birchwood Casey Fast-Drying Fast-Acting Aluminum Black Metal Finish Touch-Up Pen for Restoring Scratched and Marred Areas
Birchwood Casey Fast-Drying Fast-Acting Aluminum Black Metal Finish Touch-Up Pen for Restoring Scratched and Marred Areas
www.amazon.com
This will chemically convert the silver ding to a blue-black, without damaging the surrounding anodize finish. In the case of a port, you do not want to aggressively push the tip of the applicator into the port- this is an acidic formula and you don't want to get it into the connector- but properly applied, with a light touch, it will blacken any silver marks and provide a long-lasting solution.
/end
