They were roasted on 22nd Sept, just 7 days before I bought them.
Thanks for the in-depth reply, I've answered your questions above
On my next day off work I shall spend some more time experimenting.
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Espresso Enthusiasts
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They were roasted on 22nd Sept, just 7 days before I bought them.
Thanks for the in-depth reply, I've answered your questions above
On my next day off work I shall spend some more time experimenting.
Well, my friends.
Sweet Maria's wrote to me (as promised) to remind me that it is now October 1, should I wish to place an order with them..
I think I will place an order (and have yet to reply to their kind email), but for the next roasting date (Oct 15). And I must write to them to inform them of the change in plans.
This is because - as is the way of such things - I have been asked - at short notice - to pay a brief visit to the Balkans next week……..an election beckons…….
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Capacity. It usually is stenciled on the side of the basket. If not, weigh the empty basket, then fill it to the brim (don't pack or tamp) and re-weigh it. That will give you the capacity, in grams.
I've been meaning to ask you about this. For each one, what is the cause and which adjustments would you suggest?
And I have been meaning to ask you to remind me (yes, mea culpa, it had slipped my mind yet again, until I realised that I needed some rather decent stationary) about that Japanese company you referred to a few weeks ago.
Meanwhile, my poor pens are slumming it .
Good morning to you both.
I suspect Big Stevie has more than one issue, including perhaps inconsistent water temperature. So, while the first issue to focus on is dosing and grind, the question was trying to, sort of, jump ahead to the next thing to work on. The issue here is a bit more complicated than usual because Big Stevie is using a pressurized portafilter, which differs from a standard portafilter through the addition of a disk (usually rubber, can also be metal) that acts as a flow regulator by sitting between the basket and the bottom of the portafilter. They are supposed to promote consistency (I hate them....), but they also make extraction and other problems more difficult to diagnose. On some pressurized PF's, you can pull a shot with zero coffee but the shot will take as long to pull as if it had coffee (the pressure regulator acting, in essence, as the coffee).
Anyway.....
Aside from that, in general:
Sour usually results from underextraction, ie, insufficient interaction between the coffee and water, so, in order: check dosing, fine the grind, adjust tamp pressure, raise water temp. A lot of people jump immediately to fine the grind; I always suggest first sticking a thermometer into a shot made with no coffee.
Bitter usually results from overextraction, ie, too much interaction between the coffee and the water, so, in order, check dosing and tamping, coarse the grind, decrease water temp.
You can also diagnose both underextraction and overextraction by just watching the coffee come out of the PF during extraction. If it is running too dark, it will be overextracted, so you can "cheat" by just ending the shot early (this is called "ending darker"). And, if the shot is running too light, it will be underextracted, so you can guesstimate and let the shot run long (this is called "ending lighter"). Sometimes I do this and get lucky; lots easier than having to re-do the whole shooting match.
Big Stevie's comments about crema are a bit concerning. First, we need to make sure the dosing and tamping is roughly correct -- that's what I am waiting to hear back on now. If his shot/time volume is correct, then that means his machine almost certainly is running cold. Crema too light and large bubbles: water is too cold. Crema too dark and small bubbles: water is too hot.
Strong: I suspected Big Stevie is stopping his shots too early, ie what is called a dark stop. Focusing on 25 seconds should clear this up.
Well, we can't have that, can we.
The paper is called Tomoe River. I have samples and would be happy to mail you a stack.
The journals made using Tomoe River paper are here. All hand made to your order, so orders usually take ~2 months to arrive.
I just took delivery of a new Pelikan....this one. Oh, and it is a beauty.
I suspect Big Stevie has more than one issue, including perhaps inconsistent water temperature. So, while the first issue to focus on is dosing and grind, the question was trying to, sort of, jump ahead to the next thing to work on. The issue here is a bit more complicated than usual because Big Stevie is using a pressurized portafilter, which differs from a standard portafilter through the addition of a disk (usually rubber, can also be metal) that acts as a flow regulator by sitting between the basket and the bottom of the portafilter. They are supposed to promote consistency (I hate them....), but they also make extraction and other problems more difficult to diagnose. On some pressurized PF's, you can pull a shot with zero coffee but the shot will take as long to pull as if it had coffee (the pressure regulator acting, in essence, as the coffee).
Anyway.....
Aside from that, in general:
Sour usually results from underextraction, ie, insufficient interaction between the coffee and water, so, in order: check dosing, fine the grind, adjust tamp pressure, raise water temp. A lot of people jump immediately to fine the grind; I always suggest first sticking a thermometer into a shot made with no coffee.
Bitter usually results from overextraction, ie, too much interaction between the coffee and the water, so, in order, check dosing and tamping, coarse the grind, decrease water temp.
You can also diagnose both underextraction and overextraction by just watching the coffee come out of the PF during extraction. If it is running too dark, it will be overextracted, so you can "cheat" by just ending the shot early (this is called "ending darker"). And, if the shot is running too light, it will be underextracted, so you can guesstimate and let the shot run long (this is called "ending lighter"). Sometimes I do this and get lucky; lots easier than having to re-do the whole shooting match.
Big Stevie's comments about crema are a bit concerning. First, we need to make sure the dosing and tamping is roughly correct -- that's what I am waiting to hear back on now. If his shot/time volume is correct, then that means his machine almost certainly is running cold. Crema too light and large bubbles: water is too cold. Crema too dark and small bubbles: water is too hot.
Strong: I suspected Big Stevie is stopping his shots too early, ie what is called a dark stop. Focusing on 25 seconds should clear this up.
Well, we can't have that, can we.
The paper is called Tomoe River. I have samples and would be happy to mail you a stack.
The journals made using Tomoe River paper are here. All hand made to your order, so orders usually take ~2 months to arrive.
I just took delivery of a new Pelikan....this one. Oh, and it is a beauty.
I am sure that Big Stevie will be more than grateful for your prompt and detailed response. I know that I am.
Your new Pelikan looks lovely; that colour is an eye-catching disturbing acidic shade of green - wonderful for someone on a mission to write something serious ...
My own small (but elegant) subdued silver Mont Blanc Meisterstuck (a 146, I believe the size is) - acquired, purchased, bought - as you well know, on a recent visit to London, where (on your recommendation), I stopped off in The Penfriend, in the Burlington Arcade, (a terrifying street - I still have dreams about the place .) an enticing lane way off Piccadilly, is writing very easily, comfortable and nicely balanced in the hand and flowing over the page - thus, it is used for writing - but could do with some specimens of decent paper .
Our unfortunately absent friend, Dr Shrink, had put me in the direction of some of the Colonel Littleton's paper products (excellent, needless to say) when I bought some of their stationary/notebooks, diaries, (as well as a briefcase, and some other goods useful for travel, over a year ago) and they are very good indeed.
So, two - actually three - further questions, then. Firstly, re covers, have you a strong preference for Goatskin over Toscana, or vice versa? And secondly, what are your thoughts on the elastic closure - necessary, useful, or not? Finally, what sizes do you usually order yourself?
Having acquired a tape measure recently - one that most usefully comes with both centimetres and inches, - for the purposes of measuring what could be considered to be a portable yet functionally useful notebook - which do you yourself find most useful? I, personally, want a notebook that is smaller than A4, yet can hold quite a bit of information - something that will sit on a knee when taking notes if necessary. From my measurements, I think both the EP Record, (certainly) and the Record 336 would work in this context.
Scepticalscribe:
I use the EP journal, always in goatskin and without the elastic. I cut out the two ribbons as well. I like my journals very "plain" without pockets, ribbons, etc. I prefer to use a paper bookmark.
I have never used the Toscana, so I can't help you there. I don't recall it being an option when I started buying the journals. I love the goatskin and have never considered changing.
EP size works for me, and I actually would prefer something a bit larger. But it works. It is either being used on a desk or table, or is in my briefcase. My workflow doesn't include "writing on knee."
As for the paper, the Tomoe River paper really is luscious, and is the only thin, truly fountain pen friendly paper I have ever found. No feathering, great shading, and very little bleed through (I write on both sides of the page). The best way I can describe it is that it feels like the paper in a very old dictionary or bible.
TR is available in products other than Design-Y. I have purchased and used several of the Seven Seas journals from Nanami. Same high quality paper, and the journals come with a paper cover and you can supply your own leather cover. I purchased a few leather covers from Gfeller that fit the Seven Seas like a glove. The Gfeller leather may be my favorite leather ever, but in the end I went back to Design-Y.
Before I discovered Tomoe River, I was addicted to the Clairefontaine 90g ivory paper, from France. In fact, I probably still prefer the Clairefontaine, overall, even over Tomoe River, but the Design-Y journals, as an overall package, are impossible to put down. The Clairefontaine journals themselves are just so-so, but fortunately the french company Rhodia makes incredible journals, and, especially, pads that use the Clairefontain paper. The finish on that paper makes any fountain pen better. Luscious, smooth, a true joy to write with.
I assume the Rhodia products are available in Europe. The Rhodia premium "soft touch" pads are, hands down, the best fountain pen paper I have ever used (and I have tried hundreds of notebooks, pads, etc. over the years). It is much thicker than Tomoe River; so just depends on personal preference. I carry both, daily: a TR journal, and a Rhodia pad.
Col. Littleton makes great stuff, agreed. I tend to favor Saddleback a bit, though, probably because it looks more "western," and I live in the US southwest. Littleton looks more refined; Saddleback more rugged. I can't speak for the Col. Littleton paper; I have never used it.
I use the EP journal, always in goatskin and without the elastic. I cut out the two ribbons as well. I like my journals very "plain" without pockets, ribbons, etc. I prefer to use a paper bookmark.
I have never used the Toscana, so I can't help you there. I don't recall it being an option when I started buying the journals. I love the goatskin and have never considered changing.
EP size works for me, and I actually would prefer something a bit larger. But it works. It is either being used on a desk or table, or is in my briefcase. My workflow doesn't include "writing on knee."
As for the paper, the Tomoe River paper really is luscious, and is the only thin, truly fountain pen friendly paper I have ever found. No feathering, great shading, and very little bleed through (I write on both sides of the page). The best way I can describe it is that it feels like the paper in a very old dictionary or bible.
TR is available in products other than Design-Y. I have purchased and used several of the Seven Seas journals from Nanami. Same high quality paper, and the journals come with a paper cover and you can supply your own leather cover. I purchased a few leather covers from Gfeller that fit the Seven Seas like a glove. The Gfeller leather may be my favorite leather ever, but in the end I went back to Design-Y.
Before I discovered Tomoe River, I was addicted to the Clairefontaine 90g ivory paper, from France. In fact, I probably still prefer the Clairefontaine, overall, even over Tomoe River, but the Design-Y journals, as an overall package, are impossible to put down. The Clairefontaine journals themselves are just so-so, but fortunately the french company Rhodia makes incredible journals, and, especially, pads that use the Clairefontain paper. The finish on that paper makes any fountain pen better. Luscious, smooth, a true joy to write with.
I assume the Rhodia products are available in Europe. The Rhodia premium "soft touch" pads are, hands down, the best fountain pen paper I have ever used (and I have tried hundreds of notebooks, pads, etc. over the years). It is much thicker than Tomoe River; so just depends on personal preference. I carry both, daily: a TR journal, and a Rhodia pad.
Col. Littleton makes great stuff, agreed. I tend to favor Saddleback a bit, though, probably because it looks more "western," and I live in the US southwest. Littleton looks more refined; Saddleback more rugged. I can't speak for the Col. Littleton paper; I have never used it.
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Scepticalscribe:
I use the EP journal, always in goatskin and without the elastic. I cut out the two ribbons as well. I like my journals very "plain" without pockets, ribbons, etc. I prefer to use a paper bookmark.
I have never used the Toscana, so I can't help you there. I don't recall it being an option when I started buying the journals. I love the goatskin and have never considered changing.
EP size works for me, and I actually would prefer something a bit larger. But it works. It is either being used on a desk or table, or is in my briefcase. My workflow doesn't include "writing on knee."
As for the paper, the Tomoe River paper really is luscious, and is the only thin, truly fountain pen friendly paper I have ever found. No feathering, great shading, and very little bleed through (I write on both sides of the page). The best way I can describe it is that it feels like the paper in a very old dictionary or bible.
TR is available in products other than Design-Y. I have purchased and used several of the Seven Seas journals from Nanami. Same high quality paper, and the journals come with a paper cover and you can supply your own leather cover. I purchased a few leather covers from Gfeller that fit the Seven Seas like a glove. The Gfeller leather may be my favorite leather ever, but in the end I went back to Design-Y.
Before I discovered Tomoe River, I was addicted to the Clairefontaine 90g ivory paper, from France. In fact, I probably still prefer the Clairefontaine, overall, even over Tomoe River, but the Design-Y journals, as an overall package, are impossible to put down. The Clairefontaine journals themselves are just so-so, but fortunately the french company Rhodia makes incredible journals, and, especially, pads that use the Clairefontain paper. The finish on that paper makes any fountain pen better. Luscious, smooth, a true joy to write with.
I assume the Rhodia products are available in Europe. The Rhodia premium "soft touch" pads are, hands down, the best fountain pen paper I have ever used (and I have tried hundreds of notebooks, pads, etc. over the years). It is much thicker than Tomoe River; so just depends on personal preference. I carry both, daily: a TR journal, and a Rhodia pad.
Col. Littleton makes great stuff, agreed. I tend to favor Saddleback a bit, though, probably because it looks more "western," and I live in the US southwest. Littleton looks more refined; Saddleback more rugged. I can't speak for the Col. Littleton paper; I have never used it.
Wow. What a wonderfully detailed, fascinating and informative post. My grateful thanks to you. It is clear that I have some research to undertake, and some ordering to do.
However, I do agree about the importance of being able to write on good quality paper and lament the fact that the advent of technology (and paper to be used printing from computers) has led to a striking and most unfortunate decline in the quality of the paper available for writing with. This is one of the few areas where countries considered less developed may have some advantage over us. In the Balkans, the former Soviet Union, and parts of central Asia, I have been struck by the quality of the paper I have been able to obtain in stationary shops - it is invariably veery good, far better than what is usually available to us - even in the good - specialist stationary - stores. I think I may have mentioned that I have been hugely disappointed with the startling deterioration in the quality of 'Moleskine' in recent years, especially since they were relatively recently taken over.
I'll start at the end. I used to carry lovely, elegant Italian (sourced from the actual producer) briefcases, but learned - the hard way, that something designed for strolling about elegantly from office to office in London or Milan - or, for that matter, from classroom to classroom, in a nice Ivory Tower - was quite ill-suited to more challenging environments. Thus, in the summer of 2013, I actually bought a Saddleback (medium classic) briefcase in chestnut. That was - and is - an incredibly robust (almost indestructible) briefcase, which looks cool, too.
Our mutual friend, Dr Shrink, had recommended Colonel Littleton's for briefcases, explaining that he has one, and loved it - and - on his advice - I also bought a briefcase from Colonel Littleton, the 1943 Navigator model. The distinction you have drawn between them is absolutely spot on; however, both performed exceedingly well in challenging circumstances and more than justified their purchase price.
Ah. Now for paper ..
Well, 'writing on knee' is when one is obliged to take notes, sitting in a sofa, or armchair, in a setting which pretends to be congenial; any table in such a place is usually a low coffee table - entirely unsuitable for extended note taking, and invariably stocked with coffee or tea cups, and similar refreshments. Experience has taught me to seek something smaller than the A4 (which is only comfortable when used on a desk or table), but which yet has large enough pages to hold plenty of material. Thus, I love 'A5'; the actual model of the Colonel Littleton notebooks (and refills) which I use (which are an excellent quality paper for use with a fountain pen) have a width of 170mm and a height of 220mm, and come with a lovely leather cover. I took measurements yesterday, and it seems to me that the EP Record would meet my needs most, followed by the next size down which I could also find a use for.
Anyway, many thanks for your welcome and informative post; I clearly have a fair bit of homework to do ..to be followed by some thought, and before commencing the process of ordering some luscious paper ....
I made another trip to my local coffee roaster today for a fresh batch of beans and a cafe mocha while there.
They have three different kinds of SO beans and this is the second one I've tried now. It smells and tastes terrific with a nutty/chocolatey taste. Very good.
They have three different kinds of SO beans and this is the second one I've tried now. It smells and tastes terrific with a nutty/chocolatey taste. Very good.
Thanks for the replies to my problems.
Ive since concentrated on achieving the correct weight of extraction, rather than trying to get 2oz of extraction, and my coffees are much better now.
Im also extracting directly into my coffee cup, rather than my shot glass as I was previously prefixed with achieving 2oz within the 25/30 seconds. I small set of jewellers scales are assisting.
When making a much larger sized drink such as large latte, should I simply extract for a little longer?
Ive since concentrated on achieving the correct weight of extraction, rather than trying to get 2oz of extraction, and my coffees are much better now.
Im also extracting directly into my coffee cup, rather than my shot glass as I was previously prefixed with achieving 2oz within the 25/30 seconds. I small set of jewellers scales are assisting.
When making a much larger sized drink such as large latte, should I simply extract for a little longer?
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Hmmm, in that case is probably pull a second doppio, but that might just come down to personal preference.
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Nice, I'm glad you found a local roaster that you like! That's always cause for celebration....I think it's time for my afternoon press.....
Yeah, I'm glad too! I like being able to support the 'small guys' more than the big national or international chains.
Only if you like the taste. I'm willing to bet you won't. Here's why.
Espresso is different from any other way of making coffee. We make espresso the way we do (including the basic recipe, which I explained above) because that is the way to induce the chemical reaction that produces espresso. It is much more than just mixing coffee and water together.
This is why, usually for espresso-based drinks, you make the espresso first, to the basic recipe, and then add water (to make an americano) or steamed milk (to make a latte) or (shudder) other add-ins to make other drinks. If you want a bigger latte, make more espresso, but still make it to the basic recipe.
If you don't follow the basic recipe, you can't make espresso. Period (you can make other things that usually taste bad). When coffee is roasted, it becomes full of CO2, but that's a good thing as it protects the coffee from the evil oxygen. Oxygen causes oxidation of the aromatic components of the coffee, which is bad. A good espresso can be made only from freshly ground coffee because the act of grinding releases the CO2, permitting oxidation to begin immediately. The grinding also increases the surface area of the coffee, which facilitates extraction of the essential oils that "make" the espresso. Too fine: too much surface area and the extraction will produce poor taste; too coarse: not enough surface area and the extraction will not "suck out" (or extract) out of the coffee enough of the essential oils to taste right.
The grind impacts the extraction in another way. Even the most perfect grind is not homogenous. When the water, under pressure, first starts pushing through the coffee, it carries with it the smallest particles of coffee, generally pushing them down in the portafilter. This creates a partial blockage in the bottom half of the puck, and the flow of coffee actually decreases (you can see this in the stream if you watch closely) until the pressure builds back up and forces the water through the partial blockage. But then the smaller particles collect again, and the cycle happens again. This "fight for equilibrium" goes back and forth as the shot is pulled. Why does it matter? Because this "fight for equilibrium" results in only about 75% of the available oils (and caffeine) being extracted from the coffee. That 75%, it turns out, produces the "espresso" taste that nearly everyone prefers.
The time (25 seconds) in the basic recipe is equally important, for obvious and related reasons: producing the conditions for the perfect extraction.
This is why, millions of espresso pulls over decades in Italian (and other) espresso bars have developed the basic recipe. And it is why espresso freaks are fanatical about consistency.
So, stick to the basic recipe. That's my advice.
Agree 100%.
"No officer I wasn't texting I was just pulling a shot."
Hehe. So how are you and the Gaggia getting along?
Oh, we've bonded quite nicely.
This exquisite little machine has made the past several days much more pleasant. Not just for the caffeine injections but also for the nice break/distraction it provides. (I've been in crunch mode preparing for back to back conferences.) My DIY home roasting experiments are also proceeding nicely, although I find myself desiring more precise control over my variables (that's a dangerous thing to mention here, I can feel the vultures hovering over my wallet). I've pulled some delightful shots, but my biggest complaint is the small batch size. Each batch requires a new grinder adjustment, and I only get a few pulls per batch. Ack!
How's the new local source of beans working out for you?
Oh, we've bonded quite nicely.
I've pulled some delightful shots, but my biggest complaint is the small batch size. Each batch requires a new grinder adjustment, and I only get a few pulls per batch. Ack!
As I've come to understand it, grind adjustments are never ending with beans, especially from batch to batch.
It's working out well so far. I'm currently on offering #2 of 3 different SO beans they offer and I like them both. Once I finish this batch, I'll head back and try the third one. I've only made Press coffee with it so far and not tried espresso yet.
Each time I go, I also order a cafe mocha and have a seat for a while. The only problem is that it's about a 40 minute drive there one way, so I don't go as often as I'd like to.
That's a bit of a bummer that it's so far, but good call on getting a drink and hanging out a bit. Bring a book or computer and just enjoy the atmosphere.
That's a bit of a bummer that it's so far, but good call on getting a drink and hanging out a bit. Bring a book or computer and just enjoy the atmosphere.
I have the iPad I can bring with me, but so far of the visits I've had, I only allowed myself just enough time to enjoy a cup and then had to be about other business in the area.
Ok, my coffee making efforts have improved and are quite consistent of late. Im mostly making flat whites in a 6oz coffee cup (UK oz, not USA oz). But I do have one question...
Im working on an extraction formula of weight of coffee x 1.6.
After buying a set of jewellers scales I'm weighing out exactly 18g of coffee and achieving an extraction of 28.8g (18g x 1.6 = 28.8g) in approx 30 seconds. 28.8g of extraction equates to approx 1oz (UK) in volume. So far, so good.
But some of the advice I've read on both here and other places suggest I should be extracting 2oz. This is obviously twice what I'm extracting. So which is correct?
Also, is my 1oz extraction suitable for a cappuccino/latte in a larger 12oz cup, or should I be extracting for longer, or possibly using more than 18g of coffee?
Im working on an extraction formula of weight of coffee x 1.6.
After buying a set of jewellers scales I'm weighing out exactly 18g of coffee and achieving an extraction of 28.8g (18g x 1.6 = 28.8g) in approx 30 seconds. 28.8g of extraction equates to approx 1oz (UK) in volume. So far, so good.
But some of the advice I've read on both here and other places suggest I should be extracting 2oz. This is obviously twice what I'm extracting. So which is correct?
Also, is my 1oz extraction suitable for a cappuccino/latte in a larger 12oz cup, or should I be extracting for longer, or possibly using more than 18g of coffee?
Travel Note 1: Well, I am back from the Balkans, - Bosnia, to be precise - before embarking on further travels later in the year.
Now, for the dwellers of this thread, this country is close to coffee paradise……..a result of the marked effects of the twin influences of two coffee cultures - namely, the Ottoman Empire, (i.e. the Turks), and that of the Austrians, both of which hugely influenced the Balkans, Bosnia, above all.
This means that coffee goes beyond culture, goes beyond ritual, into something woven into the very fabric of everyday life. During the siege of Gorazde, (and indeed, of Sarajevo), in the 1990s, ways and means (the sort of ways and means that do not bear too close a scrutiny) were found to ensure that the besieged cities received supplies of coffee and cigarettes. Medical, military and food supplies may have been lacking, but coffee and cigarettes, (and later, other, less reputable materials) made their way across hidden ways, with palms on both sides greased by the filthy lucre of profitable reward.
Every village has a coffee shop, most have several, and they are invariably full of people chatting, talking, gossiping, socialising, networking, meeting, exchanging views, thoughts, opinions, memories and facts, and sipping coffee and smoking cigarettes.
In Bosnia, it is impossible to find badly made and poorly served espresso…..
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Travel Note 2: Actually, I had more than a decent time, there.
At a briefing, we had many, many coffee breaks. Until almost two weeks ago, I had never witnessed something which best resembled assembly line espresso preparation and pulling - every shot pulled with effortless efficiency and great attention to detail, calm, focussed, utterly practiced. And flawless. And delicious. And served - but, of course, - in proper porcelain espresso cups.
Indeed, I have never before been in a country where one could rouse the bar (security) staff at 3 a.m., (stumbling in after the completion of the count and the tabulation of the results) and they would blearily fetch a beer and prepare a flawless espresso…..and serve both with a smile, resuming their resting place, curled up behind the bar, somewhere…….
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