True.
Then, there is the ton of products they make/have made that, ah, isn't such a glorious fusion. Mass market electronic products are one example that comes to mind.
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Then, there is the ton of products they make/have made that, ah, isn't such a glorious fusion. Mass market electronic products are one example that comes to mind.
Kokuyo Campus notebooks and refills are absolutely unbeatable for quality and cost.
A close second is Muji refills, if you are near a Muji store.
I have had Iroshizuku Asa-Gao and have been using it for some years now, it is very nice, well behaved, looks good.
However, I find that for inks, nothing seems to beat Monteverde Horizon Blue for cost, quality, behaviour and appearance. It is the one mainstream ink that is a good working clone of the unobtainium* Parker Penman Sapphire.
However, for paper, nothing beats Tomoe River 52 & 68 gsm loose leaf paper.
* It isn't really unobtainable, you just have to pay more for it than you would for Chanel #5 Parfum.
A close second is Muji refills, if you are near a Muji store.
I have had Iroshizuku Asa-Gao and have been using it for some years now, it is very nice, well behaved, looks good.
However, I find that for inks, nothing seems to beat Monteverde Horizon Blue for cost, quality, behaviour and appearance. It is the one mainstream ink that is a good working clone of the unobtainium* Parker Penman Sapphire.
However, for paper, nothing beats Tomoe River 52 & 68 gsm loose leaf paper.
* It isn't really unobtainable, you just have to pay more for it than you would for Chanel #5 Parfum.
Thanks for the tip, seems like I can get them on Amazon.
If only I was...
I've never seen the Tomoe River. When using a fountain pen, how is the ghosting?
My wallet is whimpering, afraid of what might come... As mentioned last month, I got a sample of Iroshizuku Asa-gao, which I liked. I find myself still really liking it--both the color and how the ink behaves. I used it yesterday to write a note to someone, and once again I found myself really liking the appearance of the ink on the page. I hope the recipient of the note will, too--she is someone I've tried to "penable." A full bottle may be in my next pen supply order.
At the same time, however, I got a sample of Iroshizuku Ama-iro, which I don't like as much. It is good ink and behaves well, but I don't like the color as much.
The order also included a sample of plain Pilot blue. I don't like it as much as Asa-gao, but it works nicely enough. I haven't used it in a pen that I've used Asa-gao in--so it's hard to judge its behavior--but I do think it does work better in the pen than the Diamine Oxford Blue I had used before. One definite plus: it is considerably more more economical than Iroshizuku. It would be my choice of these inks if I needed a good value daily driver ink. Here in the US, this ink runs about half the price of Iroshizuku.
At the same time, however, I got a sample of Iroshizuku Ama-iro, which I don't like as much. It is good ink and behaves well, but I don't like the color as much.
The order also included a sample of plain Pilot blue. I don't like it as much as Asa-gao, but it works nicely enough. I haven't used it in a pen that I've used Asa-gao in--so it's hard to judge its behavior--but I do think it does work better in the pen than the Diamine Oxford Blue I had used before. One definite plus: it is considerably more more economical than Iroshizuku. It would be my choice of these inks if I needed a good value daily driver ink. Here in the US, this ink runs about half the price of Iroshizuku.
Pilot Blue is a nice ink, looks good, behaves well. It is also one of the few 'normal' inks (not 'bulletproof', not iron gall, etc) which is waterproof once dry. As is Pilot Black. Unfortunately, the Pilot Blue Black isn't a blend of the Blue and the Black, but has a waterproof black component and a washable blue part, so it looks a bit messy if it gets wet.
Having put my money where my mouth is, I have two bottles of Asa-Gao and two of the Pilot Blue.
In my tests, Pilot Blue isn't water proof, but it is surprisingly water resistant. Much better than the Iroshizuku and light years better than either Diamine ink I've used.
Part of this water resistance seems to hinge on paper--in my admittedly casual non-lab grade tests, the cheap paper seemed to work better than Rhodia. This quibble aside, though, the water resistance is a nice feature. And it comes without the warnings about possible problems that true waterproof inks might cause, like difficult clogs (pigment inks) or possible corrosion of steel nibs (iron gall).
Speaking of iron gall, I was very tempted when I placed my ink sample order to get a sample of Diamine Registrar's Blue. But it didn't make the final cut, partly because I didn't feel like dealing with iron gall ink at the moment.
Part of this water resistance seems to hinge on paper--in my admittedly casual non-lab grade tests, the cheap paper seemed to work better than Rhodia. This quibble aside, though, the water resistance is a nice feature. And it comes without the warnings about possible problems that true waterproof inks might cause, like difficult clogs (pigment inks) or possible corrosion of steel nibs (iron gall).
Speaking of iron gall, I was very tempted when I placed my ink sample order to get a sample of Diamine Registrar's Blue. But it didn't make the final cut, partly because I didn't feel like dealing with iron gall ink at the moment.
Sorry, I meant water-resistant, not waterproof.
The problem with iron gall is that you have to 'use it or lose it'. It tends to precipitate the iron out in the bottle if unused for a few years. Depending on where you are (not the US), Pelikan 4001 Blue-Black is also an iron-gall ink.
I'm in the US. I've seen some commentary that Pelikan Blue-Black was coming back to this market, but I haven't seen it listed for sale. Although I haven't admittedly checked every possible dealer...
Apparently somebody, somewhere decided that iron-gall ink was bad for you, so they couldn't import it into the US.
You can make your own. I did it with (soapless) steel (not stainless-steel or aluminium) wool, and cheap tea, and vinegar, and a drop of blue dye. You need the dye because proper iron-gall ink is transparent straw colour, so you can't see it as you write it down, till it oxidises and turns black.
To do it properly, you need some oak galls, coperas (iron sulphate) and some rancid wine or beer. Crush the oak galls, mix with water and let ferment (outside) for a couple of weeks. Mix in the coperas and rancid wine/beer. It should turn a smelly, gooey black.
Find a goose and persuade it to give you a couple of wing feathers (left wing if you are right handed, reverse if you are left handed). Plucking a couple of wing feathers from a goose may involve blood (yours). Temper the feather tips in hot sand and shape to a nice writing nib using, wait for it, a pen-knife.
Write a best-selling classic magnum opus.
Jonathan Strange and Mr Norrell might have been shorter than 2666 pages if the author had relied on goose quills? Especially if they had to collect and prepare their own.
It was apparently only the Pelikan, and from what I recall reading, they were concerned whether the ink would be in compliance with US regulations. They supposedly decided years later it would be OK, which was when they decided to make it available again. Although, as I said, I'm not aware of any dealers who have it.
Other iron gall inks are definitely available, like Diamine Registrar's. (As I said, I seriously thought about adding a sample of that to my recent sample order.) R&K Salix, a Twsbi ink, and Platinum blue-black have at least some iron gall and are available. The Platinum is provided with blue Preppy pens.
You mean the goose won't be thrilled to have a couple of feathers ripped from his/her wing? LOL
I remember when i was young fashioning--or trying to fashion--a pen out of a crow feather. I can't recall how well it worked--I'd guess not very well--but it was probably fun to try.
I gave some thought to getting a dip pen for this year's Christmas card mailing. I've been a bit curious about glass dip pens. But I never got around to it. And I have to admit that I like the convenience of a fountain pen's built-in ink supply. I probably would have only used a dip pen to sign cards--notes would have been done with a fountain pen.
Although one plus to a dip pen: it would be useful for playing with inks that could be problematic with pens, like iron gall, shimmer, Baystate Blue, etc.
I gave some thought to getting a dip pen for this year's Christmas card mailing. I've been a bit curious about glass dip pens. But I never got around to it. And I have to admit that I like the convenience of a fountain pen's built-in ink supply. I probably would have only used a dip pen to sign cards--notes would have been done with a fountain pen.
Although one plus to a dip pen: it would be useful for playing with inks that could be problematic with pens, like iron gall, shimmer, Baystate Blue, etc.
I also remember my mother telling me of reading of some writer who liked dip pens. Supposedly they helped the writing by forcing the writer to slow down (and one presumes become more thoughtful and delierate). I can't remember who it might have been, and certainly can't verify the story. Although it's very believable--I have heard so many stories about writers embracing something that would seem less efficient (e.g., typewriters in the modern era, a computer with ancient word processor, etc).
Many of the inexpensive glass dip pens from China have the end ground to a point. They work, but have little elegance.
Some years ago I obtained several glass dip pen tips from Europe. They have the tips pulled out and melted to a little smooth blob. They are a delight to write with.
Good, metal ones to look for are the Esterbook 048 Falcon and Eagle E10 Falcon. Any decent art supply will have pen handles to fit.
Just have a glass of water on your desk (stick it down with blue-tac) to rinse between inks.
Many writers, including Rachel Carson and Hemingway, used pencil. J. K. Rowling uses a ballpoint, I believe, and Neil Gaiman uses fountain pens. George R. R. Martin uses an ancient version of WordStar on an equally ancient PC.
I also remember reading somewhere of a scientist who writes the drafts of his papers with a dip pen.
Douglas Adams wrote many of his books with a typewriter, and when he migrated to a computer with word processor, many bemoaned the decrease in quality of his writing.
In the time of Samuel Pepys, one of his colleagues made a bet that he could write a whole book using a single quill. By using a light hand, he won the bet. No one remembers what the book was...
In the 18th and early 19th centuries, there were people who made and sold trimmed quills, typically for a shilling a dozen. This was quite expensive, so most still made their own.
In the early 1800s the industrial technology was developed that enabled the manufacture of cheap metal dip pen nibs. By the 1830s you could buy a box of a gross (144) nibs for a shilling, thus putting the quill-sellers out of business.
The ink sample order I previously mentioned included some Diamine Woodland Green. I got it mainly as a "possible" ink for Christmas cards, although--as it turned out--those got signed with Asa-gao. The Diamine was used for one note "just to try it" earlier in January. I have liked the ink--the green seems nice enough, and I think I like it better than Oxford Blue (the only other Diamine ink I've used). I definitely like the color better, something I've noted the last couple of days, when I've used the Woodland Green pen for crossword puzzle duty.
I traditionally have been biased towards blue inks, and I'm now thinking it might be nice to try other colors.
I traditionally have been biased towards blue inks, and I'm now thinking it might be nice to try other colors.
As mentioned elsewhere, my 'grail' pen has arrived -- a Pilot Custom 823 Vacuum-filler. It has a 14k gold nib with Medium tip.
My first fill was with a tiny tad of my 'precious' Parker Penman Sapphire. It worked perfectly. However, as others have mentioned elsewhere on the InterWebs, the 823 nibs are a little wet. A little gentle squeezing fixed that.
One of the benefits of getting a good gold nib is that there is much care taken in the factory to grind, smooth and adjust the nib and tipping so that it leaves the factory absolutely perfect. I saw this in my Pilot Custom 742 WAverly, Sailor 1911 Naginata Medium Fine, and now in the 823. When the nib is dry, you can see under a loupe that a tiny bit of baby-bottom has been explicitly ground into the tipping.
Now, my only problem is what ink to use with a proper fill -- continue with the Parker Penman Sapphire, or use Monteverde Horizon Blue*, or perhaps Iroshizuku Asa Gao? A truly major first-world problem...
Also, how does it compare to the Wing Sung 699 clones? First, they come with gold-plated stainless steel nibs. I have spent a lot of time shaping and smoothing those nibs so they write to my satisfaction. Of the three, only one is now as good as the Pilot nibs. Next, the fit and finish on the Wing Sungs is not nearly as good as the Pilot. The blind cap screw is rough and loose, unlike the smooth, close-fitting one on the Pilot. The exception is my Wing Sung 630, where the fit and finish is every bit as good as the Pilot.
* A modern PPS clone
My first fill was with a tiny tad of my 'precious' Parker Penman Sapphire. It worked perfectly. However, as others have mentioned elsewhere on the InterWebs, the 823 nibs are a little wet. A little gentle squeezing fixed that.
One of the benefits of getting a good gold nib is that there is much care taken in the factory to grind, smooth and adjust the nib and tipping so that it leaves the factory absolutely perfect. I saw this in my Pilot Custom 742 WAverly, Sailor 1911 Naginata Medium Fine, and now in the 823. When the nib is dry, you can see under a loupe that a tiny bit of baby-bottom has been explicitly ground into the tipping.
Now, my only problem is what ink to use with a proper fill -- continue with the Parker Penman Sapphire, or use Monteverde Horizon Blue*, or perhaps Iroshizuku Asa Gao? A truly major first-world problem...
Also, how does it compare to the Wing Sung 699 clones? First, they come with gold-plated stainless steel nibs. I have spent a lot of time shaping and smoothing those nibs so they write to my satisfaction. Of the three, only one is now as good as the Pilot nibs. Next, the fit and finish on the Wing Sungs is not nearly as good as the Pilot. The blind cap screw is rough and loose, unlike the smooth, close-fitting one on the Pilot. The exception is my Wing Sung 630, where the fit and finish is every bit as good as the Pilot.
* A modern PPS clone
I've never had a chance to use a gold nib that I know of, but I'm aware that they are loved. This comment raises an interesting question: how much of the love for gold nibs are properties that come from using gold, and how much might be better quality control?
(That said...I will say I've been quite happy with Pilot cheap steel nibs. I'm sure they do and can have better quality on a $$$$ pen, but what they do do even with a cheap Varsity disposable is impressive.)
I'm sure Pilot's vote for would be for the Asa-gao!
My personal favorite ink of the ones I have now is Asa-gao. It's the ink I use for applications where I want the nicest ink (e.g., birthday cards). (I don't have experience with either the Parker or the Monteverde mentioned.)
The tipping is what's important in a nib. The tipping on gold and stainless steel nibs is all the same - an alloy of extremely hard metals like osmium and iridium.
Assuming it costs 50 cents to make a stainless steel nib, it doesn't make sense for a company to then spend $20~$50 worth of worker's time to shape and adjust the tipping. However, since a gold nib is worth about $200, it does make sense to spend time and money on the tipping. This is why they are almost always a delight to write with out of the box, but the cheaper S/S nibs often need adjusting.
I have a set of Wing Sung 699 pens, all with S/S nibs which I have put the time and effort into in making them good writers. Of the three, one is as good as the Pilot gold nib, and the other two are nearly as good. But, I have put about $50 worth of time into each $2 nib. Now, I have the time and opportunity to do that, but a factory doesn't.
The other property of gold nibs is that they aren't as springy as S/S nibs. The lower ratio gold nibs (10k, 14k) are ok but the higher ratio nibs (18k, 21k) are often thicker to make them a bit stiffer. This makes them easier to adjust for alignment and tine gap than S/S nibs, but they are also easier to put out of kilter if you drop them.
Some gold nibs are coated or plated. My Sailor Naginata nib is 21k, plated with 24k. Talk about gilding the gold...
Since the above post, I remembered I not only had once used a gold nib pen, but owned--and actually still do own--the pen. I'd forgotten about it... (Today's lesson: be very careful about using the words "I never" because it can so often come back to haunt you. 😆) That pen, however, was a used/vintage Sheaffer Snorkel desk pen I got and used (only lightly) over 30 years ago. It was last used in 1992 or earlier. At this point, it would certainly need work. I just looked and it says "14K' on the nib, so I assume gold nib. I also had back then a Parker desk pen, but I don't know what kind of nib it had. It too was last use more than 30 years ago.
I also might admit that my Cross Radiance--in occasional use--has gold plating, but it's only plated.
I have a boring black Cross Radiance, but I found an interesting one pictured on-line. Thankfully sold, so I won't have to worry about caving to temptation...
Cross Radiance aka Solo Fountain Pen - Vesuvias Red w/Gold Plated Trim, C/C, Extra-Fine GP Nib (Excellent in Box, Works Well)
Peyton Street Pens has been restoring and selling vintage pens for over 10 years.
www.peytonstreetpens.com