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Help Selecting a Lens
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Just scanned the thread and see no discussion of this lens.. i am talking about the 70-300 IS USM not the 70-200 L USM as first referenced.
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I haven't used the Sigma I am afraid. When I was shooting Canon, AF issues were known on Sigma so I avoided them I am afraid but even today, my favourite shot of the moon that I have taken is from the 70-300 on a uk spec 650d. I think that will give you a good lens for the money. It got great reviews when I looked at it back then. Worth checking out and it isn't in "paparazzi check me out white" colour scheme either...
Don't have that problem with Nikon!Just scanned the thread and see no discussion of this lens.. i am talking about the 70-300 IS USM not the 70-200 L USM as first referenced.
[doublepost=1473186568][/doublepost]
I haven't used the Sigma I am afraid. When I was shooting Canon, AF issues were known on Sigma so I avoided them I am afraid but even today, my favourite shot of the moon that I have taken is from the 70-300 on a uk spec 650d. I think that will give you a good lens for the money. It got great reviews when I looked at it back then. Worth checking out and it isn't in "paparazzi check me out white" colour scheme either...
I've not tried any Sigma lenses, but did use a Tamron 28-70 on my Canon and now have a Tokina 15-28 for my Nikons and I swear other than a random specialty lens (like a LensBaby) I will never buy off brand lenses again. The IQ of the Tokina is nowhere near the IQ of my other Nikon lenses and I wish I'd just saved up for the Nikon 14-24. YMMV on this, but if you are concerned about tack sharp images, stick with a Canon lens for your Canon body. (The only exception I'd make is for the Sigma Art lenses which are supposed to be wicked sharp, but that's not what you are after for in this case.)
The Canon 50 1.4 is a lemon... try it against a 50 Summilux asph...My Sigma 50 1.4 art beats the **** out of my Canon 50 1.4 any day
No seriously, the Sigma ART lenses are very compelling propositions.
Check out the sigmas, 150 600 sport & Contemporary, the sport has slightly better IQ is heavier and is more expensive. The contemporary retails for around £739 uk, the sport over 1k
600 on a crop sensor will be bags of range...its not the quick at the long end..so you will need decent light..
My last photo I posted in photo of the day was shot on the 150 600 (sport)..yes I would love a canon 600 f4 but the sigma is £9000 cheaper!!
Lynx by
Shaun Wilkinson, on Flickr
600 on a crop sensor will be bags of range...its not the quick at the long end..so you will need decent light..
My last photo I posted in photo of the day was shot on the 150 600 (sport)..yes I would love a canon 600 f4 but the sigma is £9000 cheaper!!
Lynx byShaun Wilkinson, on Flickr
A teleconverter probably won't work with a T3 unless the lens is f4 or faster as the teleconverter increases the minimum f stop. A 1.4 teleconverter will increase the minimum f stop of a f4.0 lens to f5.6. Most Canon cameras require minimum f stops of f 5.6 or less to autofocus.
So, for instance, if you put a teleconverter on an f 5.6 lens, that would increase the minimum f stop beyond what Canon needs to autofocus.
[doublepost=1473333469][/doublepost]I have heard good things about the Sigma 150-600, but bear in mind it is big and heavy. Also, at 600 it is hard to track movement, and it is relatively slow.
If you have the money, look for a good used version of the Canon 100-400 (the first edition). There should be a lot on the market now that the second version has come out.
The Canon 70-300 is not a bad choice either. It is much smaller, lighter and much cheaper than the 100-400, but not nearly as sharp and doesn't focus as quickly (nor does it have the reach). You get what you pay for.
The 400 prime is a great lens for nature, but I don't think a prime is a good choice for sports.
So, for instance, if you put a teleconverter on an f 5.6 lens, that would increase the minimum f stop beyond what Canon needs to autofocus.
[doublepost=1473333469][/doublepost]I have heard good things about the Sigma 150-600, but bear in mind it is big and heavy. Also, at 600 it is hard to track movement, and it is relatively slow.
If you have the money, look for a good used version of the Canon 100-400 (the first edition). There should be a lot on the market now that the second version has come out.
The Canon 70-300 is not a bad choice either. It is much smaller, lighter and much cheaper than the 100-400, but not nearly as sharp and doesn't focus as quickly (nor does it have the reach). You get what you pay for.
The 400 prime is a great lens for nature, but I don't think a prime is a good choice for sports.
I don't shoot much sports or action, but I'd second most of the advice here: keep and learn on the gear that you currently have. Whether it is hobby or professional you will be better served learning how to maximize the gear you have and save as much as you can before purchasing new.
I also don't think anyone here has mentioned is that, as you improve your capabilities, you are likely going to want a camera with a much faster shutter drive and more capable auto focus system. The T3 shoots 3 frames per second and has a fairly unsophisticated AF system where as a 70D or even a T6i will give you double the drive speed and a more complex AF system that will be better for fast moving subjects.
My 2¢ is to keep using your T3 and 55-250 and learn how to use Tv (Shutter Priority) mode to get consistent results and understand the basics of the different AF modes. Once you have that down, upgrade your lens, camera body or both.
I also don't think anyone here has mentioned is that, as you improve your capabilities, you are likely going to want a camera with a much faster shutter drive and more capable auto focus system. The T3 shoots 3 frames per second and has a fairly unsophisticated AF system where as a 70D or even a T6i will give you double the drive speed and a more complex AF system that will be better for fast moving subjects.
My 2¢ is to keep using your T3 and 55-250 and learn how to use Tv (Shutter Priority) mode to get consistent results and understand the basics of the different AF modes. Once you have that down, upgrade your lens, camera body or both.