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teejaysplace24

macrumors regular
Original poster
Apr 17, 2007
111
120
Los Angeles, California
Editor's Note: I have tried repeatedly to post this on Apple's Support Communities, but they keep removing even heavily edited versions under the auspices that it is "nontechnical or off-topic". It is neither, but now I know why helpful information on this topic has been so hard to find. Apple either does not care about its users' frustrations or is so desperate to get folks to toss their old hardware that they prefer to pretend it simply doesn't exist. (As someone with a lot of expensive Apple Store receipts, I can assure them that it definitely does.) Consequently, I am sharing the full, un-edited version here, with the good folks at MacRumors, in the event that someone can actually be helped by a fellow Mac user.

As most owners of these devices know, getting a Thunderbolt 3-enabled Mac to work with Apple's old (but still insanely great) Cinema Displays is a dicey proposition. It can lead to heartache and ruin and a whole lot of silent (or perhaps vocal) cursing at Apple for failing to support its own legacy hardware. After a lot of rigamarole, I have unearthed two distinct solutions for this problem that I wanted to share with the community.

First the Apple hardware I've been working with:

2018 15" MacBook Pro
  • 2.9 GHz Intel Core i9
  • 32 GB 2400 MHz DDR4
  • Radeon Pro Vega 20
30" Apple Cinema HD Display (Aluminum)
20" Apple Cinema Display (Aluminum)
23" Apple Cinema HD Display (Polycarbonate)

To put it succinctly, hooking none of the above devices to the above laptop worked out of the box. I went through multiple adapter setups that had been used in my previous MacBook (2013) and all failed spectacularly. And then, in a bit of serendipity, I found one that didn't.

Solution 1:

UGREEN USB C to DVI Cable

This actually powered the 20" ACD natively, which after my initial fails, somewhat shocked me. I have no idea, technically speaking, why this connector succeeded where the others failed, but I used it for four straight weeks on a remote job without issue. (Some users complained about screen flicker, but I never experienced this.) One note: for whatever reason, it takes longer than expected for the MacBook to actually recognize the display — certainly longer than the Thunderbolt connection did on my 2013 MPB, which was basically instant. If you go this route, you may have to give it 15-20 seconds before you see the display actually fire up, which can be a little harrowing at first, but fine when you realize that's what it takes. You may also need to manually switch on/off the display using the touch buttons on the right, if you keep it on overnight.

Solution 2:

An eGPU

This was actually the first solution I found, but I am mentioning it second because it is the most convoluted (and expensive). I found that all the above monitors worked flawlessly with my eGPU, which circumvents whatever weird shenanigans exist between the integrated hardware controller and Mac OS. The eGPU disregards the MPB's graphics hardware completely and allows the displays to be driven directly by the external card, which seems to be a perfectly happy relationship. For this setup, I use a Vega 64 inside a Mantiz TB3 enclosure. The Vega 64 outputs 1x HDMI and 3x DisplayPort so, as one might expect, there is a bit of dongle hell involved in this. I've employed the following configurations:
I've seen this question a few times, and it's important to note that you must use the Dual Link DVI to MiniDP adapter with the 30" ACD. The native resolution of the 30" display requires more bandwidth than a single link DVI connection is capable of. So if you stick a regular old DVI adapter directly onto the ACD's breakout cable, the monitor will display an image, but it will be limited to a max resolution of 1920×1200 and your images will be blurry and look like . Lots of folks seem to be confused about this (including this one, before I figured out the obvious). So if you are upgrading from a really old Mac Pro system and have never needed this adaptor, take note. They are still floating around on the internet, but can be pricey, so if you're buying a used 30" for any reason, try to get one that comes with one.


The 20" display used the following:

And the 23" display worked similarly (but because it was a billion years old, needed an extra converter):

Because of the Vega 64's extra muscle, I could drive both the 30" and one of the other monitors simultaneously, and if I really needed to, could probably fill up all four ports without a problem. Now I had planned on using an eGPU in my setup anyway and already had all these monitors on-hand, so there really wasn't a tremendous increase in my budgeted cost, beyond a few extra adaptors; but, it's probably not worth it to drop $1000 on an eGPU solely in the service of salvaging an 8 year old monitor that you don't already own (or even one that you do.)

When I began this upgrade process last fall, I found precious little information on this issue and what there was wasn't particularly helpful. I hope this helps someone out there who may have this same problem and saves you a bit of my head-scratching frustration. (And hopefully before you get your beloved displays on Craigslist!)


And a final word about eGPUs:


I don't know that they all work the same, but MacOS seems particularly picky about dealing with them. Because I have another drive connected through the eGPU's TB3 hub, the Mac gets very cranky if it tries to go to sleep, as the external drive will improperly disconnect, which just wakes the Mac up again, which reinitializes the drive. This process will repeat ad infinitum, so I actually have to shut my eGPU down completely (manually) before letting my Mac sleep. In order to get the eGPU to eject, however, I first have to close every open application and eject any attached hard drives. Took me awhile to figure this out, but once I did, I just created some quick scripts, mapped them to a keyboard shortcut and the process is mostly painless. Every once in a while, the eGPU either won't eject properly, or the Mac's internal display driver will crash, preventing it from taking over upon restart. Afraid you'll have to talk to Apple for a solution to that one...
 

Fingerprintt

macrumors newbie
Nov 16, 2019
9
0
This is a great post, thank you very much. I'm sorry but I am having major issues for my 30" trying to find an adapter for Dual Link DVI to Mini DP to Thunderbolt. The new MBP arrived, tried 2 already without success. Thanks
 

David Denholtz

macrumors newbie
Mar 4, 2020
1
0
Thanks for this post, but the UGREEN USB C to DVI Cable did not work for me on my Mac 30" Cinema Display to iMac (Thunderbolt 3). After I received it I discovered that the cable outputs DVI MALE, the same as the 30" so I had to purchase a male-to-male DVI adaptor to connect the UGREEN to my monitor. Is this the cause of the failure? I don't think so..... Still searching for a solution to connect these to my new 27" iMac.
 

Mr_Brightside_@

macrumors 68040
Sep 23, 2005
3,752
2,045
Toronto
Thanks for this post, but the UGREEN USB C to DVI Cable did not work for me on my Mac 30" Cinema Display to iMac (Thunderbolt 3). After I received it I discovered that the cable outputs DVI MALE, the same as the 30" so I had to purchase a male-to-male DVI adaptor to connect the UGREEN to my monitor. Is this the cause of the failure? I don't think so..... Still searching for a solution to connect these to my new 27" iMac.
You need, at a minimum, Apple Dual Link DVI to Mini Mini DisplayPort Adapter this and then possibly a USB-C to Mini Mini DisplayPort female adaptor.
 

Eriamjh1138@DAN

macrumors 6502a
Sep 16, 2007
859
845
BFE, MI
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RedClayHound

macrumors newbie
Apr 24, 2020
1
0
I have a question ... I have an Apple Cinema Display 20" and a MacBook Pro that I'd like to connect it to. Sounds like same set-up you had ... my question is that the Cinema Display has the DVI but also Firewire and USB coming from that back. Are you able to disregard the FW and USB and just use the DVI in solution 1 above? Thanks!!
 

teejaysplace24

macrumors regular
Original poster
Apr 17, 2007
111
120
Los Angeles, California
I have a question ... I have an Apple Cinema Display 20" and a MacBook Pro that I'd like to connect it to. Sounds like same set-up you had ... my question is that the Cinema Display has the DVI but also Firewire and USB coming from that back. Are you able to disregard the FW and USB and just use the DVI in solution 1 above? Thanks!!

Yes, FireWire has been completely devalued at this point, so that strand of the breakout cable can be ignored. However, if you have trouble connecting, you may need to plug in the USB cable (via TB adapter), in addition the DVI. I can’t quite remember if the USB input was a necessity to get the picture fired up; that may have been the case but I was also experimenting with various setups. I do know was able to unplug it once the video connection had been made and it didn’t interrupt the feed. With it attached, you can still use the USB ports on the back of the display; however the spec is old so they’re not good for much beyond plugging in a keyboard.
 

teejaysplace24

macrumors regular
Original poster
Apr 17, 2007
111
120
Los Angeles, California
Thanks for this post, but the UGREEN USB C to DVI Cable did not work for me on my Mac 30" Cinema Display to iMac (Thunderbolt 3). After I received it I discovered that the cable outputs DVI MALE, the same as the 30" so I had to purchase a male-to-male DVI adaptor to connect the UGREEN to my monitor. Is this the cause of the failure? I don't think so..... Still searching for a solution to connect these to my new 27" iMac.

You need, at a minimum, Apple Dual Link DVI to Mini Mini DisplayPort Adapter this and then possibly a USB-C to Mini Mini DisplayPort female adaptor.

I’m sorry if this was unclear in my original post, but Mr_Brightside_@ is correct. The UGREEN adapter is only a potential solution for the 20” and 23” models, because in any case, the 30” requires a dual link DVI adapter and cannot be driven by a Thunderbolt-era Mac without one. The dual link adapter’s DVI interface, as you’ll see, is female, which allows for direct connection to the 30” display‘s male breakout cable. Then, yes, assuming your Mac does not have TB2 ports, you would need an additional Mini-DP to whatever-you-have adapter, such as the Tripp-lite above mentioned.

I have no experience with the adapter that eriamjh1138-dan mentioned — it was not yet available at the time of my original post. But based on Amazon user feedback, it sounds worthy of consideration.
 
Last edited:

Eriamjh1138@DAN

macrumors 6502a
Sep 16, 2007
859
845
BFE, MI
As a recent owner of THREE 30” cinema displays, I can gurantee that you MUST connect the USB cable from the display to a USB port. Any port. I find it works through hubs and even other displays. Without the USB connected, it will stay black. It’s USB2.

The FireWire is just a pass through and the display is like a FW HUB. Leaving it disconnected affects nothing. I guess you could use a thunderbolt to FireWire adapter if you needed firewire ports.

I have confirmed the adapter I mentioned works with windows 10 PCs with thunderbolt 3 ports. I even have a dell displayport to dual-channel DVI adapter (designed to work with the dell version of the 30” display) and that works with my iMac 2013 Using thunderbolt 1 ports.

These displays are huge and compliment my non-retina iMac well, although brightness and color matching are hit and miss since they tweaked these displays over the years. I couldn’t buy a display as large for the same amount of money, so what the heck, I went for it.
 

SEJU

macrumors member
Dec 27, 2014
64
30
Europe
Hello, I am trying to connect my Cinema Display HD 23" to my MacBook Pro 2016 through a Benfi usb-c > dvi adapter. While the monitor works, when connected to my Mac Pro. When I connect it through the adapter to my MacBook Pro, I get heavy ghost images. What is this? Does anybody know, what is going on?
 
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